Not leaking - can't get the slip joint loose to remove the j-tube!

[Cheesepanzer]

Seeing Brandon's note on his leaking Berg header prompted me to post.  I've got a Berg 1 3/4 header that I can't seem to get the #3 j-pipe loose.  The header is ceramic coated and I'm trying to save the finish and not damage the header.

Its on there tight!  I've used lots of spray lubricant like Liquid Wrench, and used heat/cold and twisting.  I didn't want to have to use some sort of exhaust clamp that you tighten bolts into the header tubing, and it pulls on the tubes, as I don't want to screw up the finish or damage it.

Any advice?

[neil68]

I have the same problem with my 1.75" ceramic-coated merged header.  What I do is take a short block of 2 x 4 wood (approximately 8" or 20 cm long) and angle it in to the #3 curve and hit gently with a hammer (on the wood block).  This starts the #3 pipe moving away from the exhaust studs after a few firm taps, but sometimes I have to really hit it hard!!

So far, the wood block has not damaged the ceramic coating at all, and I've probably done this at least ten times over the past five years.  I've changed camshafts several times, so I'm getting pretty good at removing the engine...

[Brandon Sinclair]

I just did this yesterday to try to cure my exhaust leaks (to no avail).  I had to do what Neil suggested.  First I just tried a rubber mallet on the J tube but it would not break it loose.  Then I tried a piece of wood with the mallet to no avail.  Then I got s short piece of hardwood and took a metal hammer and hit it hard many times to break the seal and get it off.  It took quite a few hits but it came off and the wood did not dmg the ceramic coating.

Maybe I should do flanges-it would be a heck of a lot easier.

[Cheesepanzer]

Thanks guys for the suggestions.

The header is no longer on the engine.  I was able to get the j-tube out far enough that I was able to "strong-arm" the header off the head.  I've carefully clamped the header and tried using a rubber mallet to remove the j-tube.  Your suggestions have given me an idea to craft a piece of wood to fit into the bend of the j-tube, and I'll see if that will get it loose.

If anyone else has any ideas or experience with this, please let me know.

Thanks!   

[Chuck Fryer]

Maybe try heating it up a bit?

[Cheesepanzer]

Maybe try heating it up a bit?

Been there, done that.  Heat didn't do a thing.   

[hotrodsurplus]

Been there, done that.  Heat didn't do a thing.   

You didn't get it hot enough. I extract studs from 75-year-old engines that have sat in fields since the Truman administration. Trust me, heat does work. Soak everything in good oil for a few days and touch it with the flame wrench. Get a small rosebud tip or use a larger cutoff tip without the cutting oxygen.

Be brave. Get parts to dull cherry red. They'll come right apart. 

[neil68]

Are you certain that the ceramic coating on the merged header will hold up after heating it up cherry red?  Just wondering...

[TexasTom]

That's what it's made for! 
TxT

[neil68]

That's what it's made for! 
TxT

Cherry red though??

[hotrodsurplus]

Are you certain that the ceramic coating on the merged header will hold up after heating it up cherry red?  Just wondering...

Oh hells no it won't survive. 

But I guess you could say the integrity of the finish is beyond the point. If the joint won't come apart then the header is junk anyway. It doesn't cost much to have a header re-coated.

If it comes to that I do feel for you though. It's a real bummer to have to willfully destroy something just to save something else. It's sort of like waking up the day after a party with an ugly girl laying on your arm. You know you have to chew it off to keep from waking her.