Fuel pump adivce

[AntLockyer]

Hi guys, my engine is a 2443cc, fk89,  Super Flo II heads, 44x38mm and 51.5mm IDAs.

Was originally going to use a very big pump for carbs and nitrous but now that I'm focussing on making it a street car I am going to go for two pumps that are better suited to running for more than a few minutes at a time.

So what pump would you recommend for the carb side of things?

I'm guessing a Holley blue and mallory reg would do the job just fine.

[benlawrence]

Holley should be fine Ant, thats whats on one of the cars here supplying 51.5 ida's no bother.

[Bernard Newbury]

There are far better regulators than Mallory or Holley.

[hotrodsurplus]

Why not run an OEM pump from a modern-ish EFI car? The common one for EFI conversions is the E2000 pump from '80s and '90s Ford vehicles. That pump came on a TON of Ford vehicles including the Merkur XR4TI, the US analog to yurrip's Ford Sierra XR4I. I can't imagine that Ford used a different pump for the US market so it's likely available there. It's listed as an in-tank pump but on US cars it often mounts on the chassis. It has NPT fittings on the ends.

Here are the cross reference numbers:

OE: E35Y-9350A, E4DZ-9350A, E4DZ-9350B, E3ZZ-9350B
BOSCH: 0580 464 108
AIRTEX: E2000

It will dish out enough fuel to support at least 300hp, probably more. It's also engineered to run for hundreds of thousands of miles. And if it ever takes a dump in Pigsknuckle, Arkansas you can get another one from the local parts store. Best of all, you can probably pluck one from a car at the breaker's for a tenner.

You'd have to run a three-port regulator but that's actually a good idea even if you run a low-pressure pump like the Holley Blue. Two-port regs work by resisting the pump's output which strains the pump and heats the fuel. But three-port regs do it by returning the excess volume to the tank. The result is a cooler-running, longer-lasting pump.

Just an idea...

[AntLockyer]

I agree but not for the money (I've got a Holley reg I just found in my parts box). How critical is the pressure on the carbs side? For the Nitrous fuel side I'll buy the best I can afford which still may end up being a Mallory

[AntLockyer]

Why not run an OEM pump from a modern-ish EFI car? The common one for EFI conversions is the E2000 pump from '80s and '90s Ford vehicles. That pump came on a TON of Ford vehicles including the Merkur XR4TI, the US analog to yurrip's Ford Sierra XR4I. I can't imagine that Ford used a different pump for the US market so it's likely available there. It's listed as an in-tank pump but on US cars it often mounts on the chassis. It has NPT fittings on the ends.

Here are the cross reference numbers:

OE: E35Y-9350A, E4DZ-9350A, E4DZ-9350B, E3ZZ-9350B
BOSCH: 0580 464 108
AIRTEX: E2000

It will dish out enough fuel to support at least 300hp, probably more. It's also engineered to run for hundreds of thousands of miles. And if it ever takes a dump in Pigsknuckle, Arkansas you can get another one from the local parts store. Best of all, you can probably pluck one from a car at the breaker's for a tenner.

You'd have to run a three-port regulator but that's actually a good idea even if you run a low-pressure pump like the Holley Blue. Two-port regs work by resisting the pump's output which strains the pump and heats the fuel. But three-port regs do it by returning the excess volume to the tank. The result is a cooler-running, longer-lasting pump.

Just an idea...

Will look into it, cheers.

[Bernard Newbury]

if you are going to run a bit of gas Ant look at these>  http://www.magnafuel.com/

[richie]

if you are going to run a bit of gas Ant look at these>  http://www.magnafuel.com/

Agreed, also dont get a holley blue for the carb side, if you are going to use a holley pump only use a red,the blue is a bitch to keep the pressure down enough to not push past the needle and seat,its not designed to go down that low[3-3 1/2 psi] 

cheers richie

[AntLockyer]

if you are going to run a bit of gas Ant look at these>  http://www.magnafuel.com/

They look great but maybe a little rich for my blood. I'm tempted just to keep my Barry Grant one for the Nitrous side. At least I know I'll never out grow it. EDIT Actually I jsut saw the smaller pumps, not too expensive.

Richie thanks for the advice.

[AntLockyer]

Turns out I can drop the voltage on my Barry Grant pump for street use and switch it to full voltage when the gas is on and I need WOT.

The pump has a built in bypass that I can set between 16 and 25 psi to keep the line pressure up (and the fuel cool) and then run 2 additional regs one for the carbs and one for the nitrous.

I'll make sure the switch for the pump voltage prevents the solenoids from arming in addition to the fuel pressure switch.

I know 50% of you will disagree

[hotrodsurplus]

Research whether you want to reduce the voltage to an electric motor.

Reducing the voltage to a motor increases its current draw and current. Current is energy. Energy is heat. A frequent cause of motor failure is voltage sag which is another term for reduced voltage.

A safer way to reduce motor speed is by a pulse-width modulator. It maintains voltage but it delivers it in cycles instead of constantly.

By the way, if you already have a good pump why can't you just run it full speed into two three-port regulators? One reg would be for the nitrous and the other for the carburetors. You could merge both return lines into a large return line to the tank. Then you could eliminate the band-aid solution to prevent the nitrous from engaging when the pressure isn't sufficient because you dropped the fuel volume. 

[AntLockyer]

Barry Grant themselves supply a box to drop the voltage for street use. The main issue is the duty cycle of the motor not the amount of fuel it delivers. I agree on the amp draw but I believe this will be an issue with the wiring to the pump and not the pump itself. PWM is a good idea but I am concerned about pressure fluctuation.