Projekt Kompressor

[Shag55]

Best of luck at the meet Mike!

[Fiatdude]

Rain Rain --- Stay AWAY

Kick some V8 butt this weekend Mike --- Good luck

[bedjo78]

Mike,

good build up, do you used the same cam with 108 LC?

[Cornpanzer]

Very cool. Love that car! 

[Fiatdude]

Mike ran a 10.20 on a 10.60 index ---- gonna have to find a slow down button

[modnrod]

Either that or try the 9.60 index..........

I rekn that motor would last forever with only 6psi.

[Fiatdude]

Not Mike's, but Pat's ProStock VW at the March meet racing a Camaro in the 9.60 class at the 1:45 mark -- listen to the announcers LOL


http://www.ustream.tv/recorded/29809645#/recorded/29806928

[modnrod]

-- listen to the announcers LOL

HAHA!!!
 Damn that thing just JUMPS doesn't it? 

[Fiatdude]

Downs just ran a 9.60 with a 4 and is NUMBER ONE QUALIFER

[Mike Lawless]

With Friday's March Meet rain delay, the sportsman classes had to finish up on monday. I had to be back at work and couldn't return. So I decided to give the round to my opponent so he could return.

Like Harold said, we ran 10.20 at 135mph on Thursday qualifying.....well under the D/Gas 10.60 index. On saturday, we attempted to qualify by fender racing the guy in the other lane. That kinda back-fired because he was a half second late at the tree. That run was 10.90.

It handled quite nicely after doing the chassis and wheelie bar adjustments

For our first round elimination round since we couldn't come back for round two, I went in deep, triggering the redlight, handing the win to my opponent and attempted to run it all out. I missed the shift to fourth gear, couldn't recover and coasted thru to an 11.15. However, it was a hundredth better at the 60 than the 10.60 run (1.43 to 1.42) and five hundredths better at the eighth (6.54 to 6.49). Had I gotten hold of high gear, it calcs out to 10.12 to 10.10. All with a seven pound waste gate spring.

I guess it can be said that I'm pretty happy with that

Now to get the e-Boost installed and do some racing.

It'll probably be late into the season before I consider exploring the outer limits. But I think it easily has mid nine second potential in it. I just don't know yet if I want to go thru the time and expense to cert the chassis and get licensed.

[Fiatdude]

Mike --- just soften it up with the e-boost and save parts and have fun

Welcome to the dark side

[Greg G]

It sounds like you had a great week end despite the rain.

[Mike Lawless]

We're off to the West Coast Hot Rod opener this coming weekend, so we will miss Phoenix.

After this event, we have some time to address some issues. First on the list is the clutch. To save money and time, I opted to go with replacing the McLeod "lite" pressure plate hat that I have been using with a "heavy" hat. It was quick and easy. It turned out to be not so quick and easy as some modifications needed to be done to make it work.

Well, it works. It doesn't slip. But the operation of it can best be described as "Hateful". Absolutely hateful. Coupled with the fact that with a flow control in the hydraulics to soften the hit, I haven't had a RT under .110 yet. Granted, I have only eight runs on the thing, and as yet, really haven't focused on that, but it still concerns me. That kind of RT just ain't gonna cut it in D/Gas competition with the V8 boys. Someone mentioned on another forum post that the hydraulic release bearing I rigged up would slow the release. Maybe that's what I'm seeing here.

So, I've got to look at options.

One is the Lummus Rev6. Mostly good reviews.
Another is a dual disc Tilton OT-II 7.25". No one using one in a VW that has given a critique that I know of. I've seen a mention or two, but no posted performance figures. So it's pretty much an unknown deal
Both pretty danged expensive, although the Tilton is a lot less money than the Rev6

Another option is a Kennedy dual disc. But with the experiences I've had with Kennedy stuff over the last couple of years, it's unlikely I'll give that any more than passing consideration. I'd have to buy a flywheel to make that work, so the cost wouldn't be any less than the Tilton.

Anyway, I've lobbed questions at both Lummus and Tilton. We'll see how it shakes out.

[Mike Lawless]

After day one of the WCHRA opener here at Famoso, we've made some solid improvements. I finally got the idle fuel flow under control, and it is not only cleaner, it's not using as much fuel either.

Something left over from my missed shift to high gear at the march meet on our last run there. Go up for my first run on Saturday at the WCHRA opener, no second, fourth or reverse gear. Not normally a big deal, but I couldn't come up with a cause. At any rate, got that fixed in time for the second qualifying run.
First run netted a .061 RT, and a 1.34 sixty. 10.30 at 133 with a five pound spring with the eBoost hooked up. Obviously still a ways to go there. The RT was definitely a step in the right direction, but the sixty foot time left me a bit slack jawed! This was primarily due to loosening up the CM. according to Cindy and Paul Miller, it's getting off the line very sweetly. Nice and soft, and moving forward.
First round of eliminations, we didn't make any changes other than the high side rev limiter. I'm up against a mid 60s Chevelle with some heady duty sponsor signage.
I have a .021RT to his .065, but didn't close the deal on him, running way under the 10.60 index, 10.50 at 115 to his 10.53, 126.
Even though we didn't get past our first round guy, there were still small victories. Getting the launch dialed in with good RTs was a victory.
This makes me think that perhaps I might be able to live with the clutch after all.

This year, WCHRA is two one-day events on the same weekend. A complete race with eliminations on Saturday, and again on Sunday. So, with Sunday being a whole new day, we got another shot at it.
I'm obviously not doing something right with the boost controller. I couldn't make any changes. Even so, not a lot of chances on Sunday. We got a single qualifying run then it was straight to eliminations. My first qualifying run was soft. I got the thing into high gear, and simply held the rpm to about 5500, then rolling gently into at the stripe. That got me 10.88, good for number 8 on the ladder.
This put me up against veteran racer Steve Barta in his early Chevy nova. Steve has been racing at Famoso at least as long as I have, and we had faced each other in days of old when we were racing a Dodge Challenger.
I had the advantage at the tree again, and again, I tried "Backing into him" beginning at the eighth mile, but took too much stripe again and ran 10.52 to his 10.58, handing Steve the win. He came by our pit after the round and said, "Damn that little car hauls ass!"

Paul Miller was there helping us out. He mounted his Go_pro to the back bumper for this little video. Barta's nova is in the other lane...

http://lawlessdesigns.com/RearView.mov

Solid progress anyway, and we are pretty happy. Once we get a handle on the boost control, I think we can compete with this bunch!

[richie]

Nice 60fts,thats a real impressive improvement for how heavy that car is still,shows the R&P,1st gear ratio etc is all working out correctly   balancing the CM adjustment and getting the car to actually leave is real difficult to get right,sounds like you are close though.
Any thoughts on how you can slow it down? I have a couple of ideas that may help or just be plain stupid but here goes anyway   How about instead of using the e boost to increase boost as you go down track, use it to take some out? You need enough at the start to get it moving and overcome the taller gear ratios,but start maybe in 4th taking boost out to slow it down,or how about a 4th gear timing retard? maybe even need it in 3rd as well but you got to start somewhere, proberly need a TNT to figure out what it needs or doesnt.

cheers Richie

[Mike Lawless]

Nice 60fts,thats a real impressive improvement for how heavy that car is still,shows the R&P,1st gear ratio etc is all working out correctly   balancing the CM adjustment and getting the car to actually leave is real difficult to get right,sounds like you are close though.
Any thoughts on how you can slow it down? I have a couple of ideas that may help or just be plain stupid but here goes anyway   How about instead of using the e boost to increase boost as you go down track, use it to take some out? You need enough at the start to get it moving and overcome the taller gear ratios,but start maybe in 4th taking boost out to slow it down,or how about a 4th gear timing retard? maybe even need it in 3rd as well but you got to start somewhere, proberly need a TNT to figure out what it needs or doesnt.

cheers Richie

It's almost as if you read my mind Richie! Almost as if we're twin brothers from different mothers born a few years and a continent apart....So if it's a stupid idea, then we're both thinking stupid!
I have those same concerns about taking boost away from the launch. It launches so sweet now, I'd hate to back away from that.

What do you think about a high gear switch to change to the lower boost setting, with perhaps an "Oh Chit" button to over ride that by opening the connection?

[richie]

Nice 60fts,thats a real impressive improvement for how heavy that car is still,shows the R&P,1st gear ratio etc is all working out correctly   balancing the CM adjustment and getting the car to actually leave is real difficult to get right,sounds like you are close though.
Any thoughts on how you can slow it down? I have a couple of ideas that may help or just be plain stupid but here goes anyway   How about instead of using the e boost to increase boost as you go down track, use it to take some out? You need enough at the start to get it moving and overcome the taller gear ratios,but start maybe in 4th taking boost out to slow it down,or how about a 4th gear timing retard? maybe even need it in 3rd as well but you got to start somewhere, proberly need a TNT to figure out what it needs or doesnt.

cheers Richie

It's almost as if you read my mind Richie! Almost as if we're twin brothers from different mothers born a few years and a continent apart....So if it's a stupid idea, then we're both thinking stupid!
I have those same concerns about taking boost away from the launch. It launches so sweet now, I'd hate to back away from that.

What do you think about a high gear switch to change to the lower boost setting, with perhaps an "Oh Chit" button to over ride that by opening the connection?

  At least I am not the only one

What are you running 1/8 mile et and mph? I really think if it is working well to the 1/8th then leave that alone and just focus on the 2nd half of the track,either a switch when you shift to 4th or something time based? I know that would proberly be a little more complex,all though the Eboost 2 is all time based so it can be done simply by swapping that out[read spending more money ]

I would try a simple 4th gear switch to begin with and see how that works out,I am guessing that a little fender racing is easier if the mph is slower as well,easier to judge? only guessing though as its not something I really ever tried

cheers Richie

[Mike Lawless]

Richie
It's running around 6.50 at 104mph to the eighth. On the runs that I "backed into" my opponent, trap speed was about 115. That might take zero boost in high gear to accomplish! Might actually have to kick 'er back in third. A shift coupler switch wouldn't be hard to make to do that.

[richie]

Sounds like it needs normal boost for 1st and 2nd then a lower setting for 3rd and 4th so you have more of a window to tune it into,coupler swithc would be simple enough,thats all i did for my 1st gear CM switch on the old cab

Whens next race outing?

cheers Richie

[Mike Lawless]

Sounds like it needs normal boost for 1st and 2nd then a lower setting for 3rd and 4th so you have more of a window to tune it into,coupler swithc would be simple enough,thats all i did for my 1st gear CM switch on the old cab

Whens next race outing?

cheers Richie

I'll get to work on that.

Next outing will be April 19-21st, with the American Nostalgia Racing Association, again at Famoso. It will also be a D/Gas, pro tree deal.

Thanks for your insights Richie!

[richie]

I'll get to work on that.

Next outing will be April 19-21st, with the American Nostalgia Racing Association, again at Famoso. It will also be a D/Gas, pro tree deal.

Thanks for your insights Richie!

Your always welcome now we need to look at our family trees to see where they cross

cheers richie

[Mike Lawless]

Richie, I am going to implement your advice. I whipped this button mount up this week for the e-boost controller. It's wired in such a way as I hope i don't have to use it much. Rather than mess with the way the car is launching for the time being, I've programmed the second setting of the e-boost to lower the boost. It is triggered by a shift coupler switch to activate on the shift to third gear, and stay active through high gear. The switch on the steering wheel is a "normally closed" switch. Left alone the circuit is active. Push the button, and it breaks the circuit, bringing it back to the default higher boost setting. This will be used if something happens during a run and I need to over-ride the lower boost setting to get some extra performance.

Over time, I'll refine the settings. I may ultimately find a setting that doesn't require a shift to a lower or higher boost setting in mid run. In my mind, that would be ideal. We'll see how this work on our next outing, hopefully on April 20-21.

Now, this photo is truly a multi-purpose photo. It fits in the "Steering Wheel" Thread, as well as the "Shifter" thread, with a genuine Hurst shifter. This one has aluminum pivot plates I made for it years ago. I think it even fits in the "throttle Cable" thread as you can see my Morse Cable that is used for the throttle.

[modnrod]

Great photo Mike. If my street cars looked 1/2 as nice as your race car I'd be very pleased!

Are you used to chasing or being chased? I rekn that's more the point with set-up. If you can still drill the tree and leave soft at the same time, it means you can have a good top end speed advantage at the other end, as well as being kinder on components.

Always watch your thread.
Good luck at the track.

[Mike Lawless]

Are you used to chasing or being chased? I rekn that's more the point with set-up. If you can still drill the tree and leave soft at the same time, it means you can have a good top end speed advantage at the other end, as well as being kinder on components.

Thanks modnrod!

The plan was to be the chaser. That's the way I like it. I feel as though I have more control. However, if the car could repeat the index number consistently, then it could be left up to the other guy to make a mistake. So far it's not working out that way. Index or bracket racing is all about mistakes. Who makes the mistake and when  typically determines the outcome. After all, if the run were perfect, meaning a triple zero reaction time, and running dead on the index, it would be unbeatable! That's not going to happen. The realistic goal would be to fine tune "the Package" (A combo of reaction time and how much time over the index. Example: an RT of ..020 and a run of 10.61 on a 10.60 index is a .030 "package") to leave as little as possible. Most of the guys who run in the index classes, at least in the V8 world, typically have .03 to .08 second  "packages" .

But then we've only got a few runs on the thing so far. My hope is to get things sorted to where I can be behind in the first half, then reel 'em in. I just need to find out how soft I can launch the thing without sacrificing the all-important reaction time.

[modnrod]

 Most of the guys who run in the index classes, at least in the V8 world, typically have .03 to .08 second  "packages" .

Similar package times over here in my bike classes I run.

[Mike Lawless]

Life has a way of getting in the way of things we enjoy doing every now and then. For us, that time is now. Unfortunately, I’m having to hang up my racin’ jacket for at least the short term. It may be weeks, or it may be months. Just have to see how it plays out.
In the meantime, there are some things that didn’t get done, or weren’t finished the way I would like in order for us to make it to the Bakersfield March Meet.
One of these items was an unkind cut I had to make to the engine bay floor. When everything was said and done, the pipe from the #2 exhaust port hit the edge of the opening. (The cut can be seen in the photo below).

I also recessed the firewall a bit where the breather box is mounted. I had an opening there already for fuel system access, so it was a minor modification. Still, it needs some finish work.
For the opening, I started by plotting a radius that would expand the engine bay opening with a nice symmetrical look. I then formed a strip of sheet steel with a rolled edge (photo below) that will serve as the “flange” to give the opening a finished appearance. Once complete and painted, I think it will be virtually unnoticeable much like the wheel tubs.


This time off will also allow me to reassess the entire package. What else is there that can be improved?

[Mike Lawless]

Normally, I don't ask opinions on appearance related items. However, I'm getting a batch of stuff ready to go to get powder coated. The intake manifold end pieces and various odd bits will get coated gloss black, the hot side turbo housing and exit pipes a flat "titanium" high heat coating, etc.

On the compressor housing, which is now rough cast finish aluminum, I've considered polishing it, or coating it gloss black. The piece attached to the firewall that the injection junction block is attached to has already been polished.

I'm leaning toward gloss black on the compressor housing. What do you guys think?

[Taylor]

Can't go wrong with black, should look real nice.  Just make sure they do a real good job of masking it off and be very specific about where to mask.  It's a Bitch to get off and is relatively thick.

[Mike Lawless]

Can't go wrong with black, should look real nice.  Just make sure they do a real good job of masking it off and be very specific about where to mask.  It's a Bitch to get off and is relatively thick.

Thanks Taylor. I found that out the hard way years ago!

Do you think I need to smooth out the exterior of the housing before coating?

[Fiatdude]

It depends on the look YOU want Mike --- A little smoothing goes a long way towards a polished finish -- IF they put the coating on thick, that has a way of smoothing too