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Author Topic: offset grinding crank  (Read 6401 times)
Jesse Wens
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Posts: 239



« on: May 03, 2013, 19:08:56 pm »

I would like to have a crank offset grind.
Offcourse I have heard about Demello en DPR but does anyone have an addres in Europe?
Would be for a regrind to chevy journal making for a bigger stroke and preferably nitrading afterwards.
So I don't think any welding is necesary but I could be wrong, not realy sure about the oilpassages.

Thanks

Jesse
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thinking out of the box will get you to go faster cheaper in the long run, time is on my side
wph
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Posts: 94



« Reply #1 on: May 03, 2013, 22:01:51 pm »

Expect to pay at least 80-100 euros per crankpin + nitriding depending on where you start at (53 or 55mm),
it is a quite time consuming process. Any competent machine shop with a crankshaft grinder can do it,
nitriding services may be more difficult to find
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Taylor
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Posts: 577



« Reply #2 on: May 03, 2013, 22:35:07 pm »

I want to say the last one I had done here in the states at Castillo's Crankshaft Specialties was around $400 and change total.  Just to send it out for nitride was like $150.  As far as your oil holes, it is best to start with a crank that has them drilled on center.  Especially if your going a long way, 5mm+, or the hole will be elongated by the time the crank is ground.  It's also a good time to have a large radius put on the journal shoulders. 
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RMS Boxer Service
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« Reply #3 on: May 04, 2013, 09:37:08 am »

DPR have just that kind of product on the shelf and at $185. At that price it's even 8 doweled and balanced.
For another $45 you can have it heat treated. Hard to beat that price  !! José make some awesome cranks and
I have allwas been happy with the DPR cranks I have used.

/Rolf
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MeXX
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World record holder 8.733 @ 255.658


« Reply #4 on: May 04, 2013, 12:08:02 pm »

Dear Jesse

First of all I understand why you want to do this, I did it myself for my OKRASA WBX crank going from 82 to 82,6 and from crankpin 55 to 55 - 0,75.
It's really allot of work  Cry  Cry . You just have to ask yourself is it worth the work and the money.
If it's not really a very rare crank and really worth I would highly recommend buying a new one.

So keep on strokin'

MeXX
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Drag or Die
Jesse Wens
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Posts: 239



« Reply #5 on: May 07, 2013, 19:52:09 pm »

hey,

The crank is a good condition long stroke WBX crank. The idea behind this is to be able to use chevy rods and gain a bit of stroke.
As I don't see a lot of good places apear in europe I´m guessing it might be better and maybe cheaper in the long run to try Demello or DPR.

Jesse
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thinking out of the box will get you to go faster cheaper in the long run, time is on my side
Jesse Wens
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Posts: 239



« Reply #6 on: May 08, 2013, 10:29:21 am »

I got a qoute from a local company that would do it for 350-400.
Nitrading would be 200-250.
Sounds about right?
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thinking out of the box will get you to go faster cheaper in the long run, time is on my side
richie
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« Reply #7 on: May 08, 2013, 10:53:50 am »

Jesse

how quicly do you want it done? I ship stuff to and from the states regularly and could send it over to DPR to get done way cheaper?


cheers Richie
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Good parts might be expensive but good advice is priceless Wink
Jesse Wens
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Posts: 239



« Reply #8 on: May 08, 2013, 11:26:16 am »

Hey Richie,

There´s no hury.

It´s for next years engine. would be nice to have it begin 2014.

Please let me know what you can do for me (and what I could do in return  Wink )

Thanks
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thinking out of the box will get you to go faster cheaper in the long run, time is on my side
richie
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« Reply #9 on: May 09, 2013, 09:38:58 am »

PMed you

cheers Richie
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Cars are supposed to be driven, not just talked about!!!   


Good parts might be expensive but good advice is priceless Wink
jaqo
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« Reply #10 on: May 09, 2013, 19:19:54 pm »

If you want to,  I can do it for you here in Poland - we have some VERY competent specialists and low prices. For example nitriding is something like 50$ per crank. I guess grinding would be around 70-150$ Shipping is not that expensive too.
« Last Edit: May 09, 2013, 19:22:53 pm by jaqo » Logged
dangerous
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Posts: 270


« Reply #11 on: May 09, 2013, 20:18:01 pm »

You have to be careful with the 76mm WBX crank because
the oil holes will move closer to the side of the journal when you stroke it.
I have seen cracks start from this position,
and it is only then, a short distance to the critical radii.

If you look at the 69mm one, the oil holes are machined with the same settings,
so the journal/oil hole relationship is better placed.
But either way as you stroke them the oil hole outlet ends up in a worse position.

Late type 1 and type 4 cranks all use this oil hole system,
which is why the older 6 volt cranks are best for stroking.
They have a single oil hole, to the rod journal, that is better placed.

A 'switched on' crank grinder could index the journal a little so that when stroking,
the area near the  oil hole is barely touched.
BUT, you would have to re-index your timing marks.
« Last Edit: June 04, 2013, 20:17:08 pm by dangerous » Logged
Jesse Wens
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Posts: 239



« Reply #12 on: June 04, 2013, 06:53:02 am »


A 'swithced on' crank grinder could index the journal a little so that when stroking,
the area near the  oil hole is barely touched.
BUT, you would have to re-index your timing marks.

I understand what you are saying here. I've never heard of it done though. Do you have some experience with it? Guess you just have to put in some extra work indexing your cam.

Got a quote from DPR today.

Check for cracks
Grind the mainbearings first undersize (0.25)
Weld and grind center main to type 4
Grind the rodbearings to 2 inch chevysize offset style ( 80 mm stoke )
Weld counterweights
Nitrade afterwards
 575 dollar or  440 euro
Sounds reasonable for a crank jose claims will take about 400 horsepower no problem.
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thinking out of the box will get you to go faster cheaper in the long run, time is on my side
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