Rear Torsion Bars.. HELPPPP....

[plasticblack]

I'm really hoping that some kind folk on here will be able to advise and assist me with my rear torsion bars?

I bought a refurbished floor pan a while back and have just picked it up yesterday. However one torsion bar is missing altogether..

But I have no idea at all what to do in this situation? One torsion is still in place, however there is no spring plate attached..

Does anyone know how/what I need to do form here in order to restore the rear suspension to standard set up?

The pan is a 1972 swing-axle model.

There seem to be any number of articles about adjusting rear suspension height when the torsions are still in place, but nothing that helps if (like mine) the torsions are actually removed form the stock positions?

Helpppppp   

[Russell]

Are you doing a standard car ?

[plasticblack]

Yes.

I just want to get the chassis back to stock settings for now before considering any mods.

[deano]

Used torsion bars can not be swapped right-to-left. Once they have been twisted one way, they have to be used in that direction only. That is why they are marked R and L. Trying to grab another used single bar and sticking it in place will be a crap-shoot if it has the same preload angle and age with your other one. You really need to get a matched pair from the same donor car, and then install them with the same preload. I think you would be chasing your tail if you try to use one (replacement) bar with your other one, and get the car to sit level....

[plasticblack]

Used torsion bars can not be swapped right-to-left. Once they have been twisted one way, they have to be used in that direction only. That is why they are marked R and L. Trying to grab another used single bar and sticking it in place will be a crap-shoot if it has the same preload angle and age with your other one. You really need to get a matched pair from the same donor car, and then install them with the same preload. I think you would be chasing your tail if you try to use one (replacement) bar with your other one, and get the car to sit level....

Thanks Deano..

I figured a replacing these as a pair has to be the way to go.. However I'm not sure how to attempt getting right & left in balance, being that I'm missing one bar altogether?

Do I just pull out the torsion bar and stick in another one (pair) and go about the whole set thing by trial and error?

Does any one have a clue as to what might serve as a starting point or am I just going to have to take a giant guess as to a start position...

If I attach a spring plate to my remaining torsion and use that to get and 'unstressed' position (17-20 degrees) would that be a good start and attempt to match the other side accordingly?

As I said I just want to get the pan level before thinking about any lowering? I'm presuming there is no quick fix here? 

[deano]

Here is a link I found that might help you. When you place the spring plate on the torsion bar, before you lift it up on to its perch, you need to be about 20 degrees down, with the pan level. The hairy part of doing this is, there is a lot of load on these bars, so you need to have a good floor jack, spring plate tool, or chain, etc, to make this happen. Be careful! That's why I like installing 24mm SAW bars, as you don't have to wind them up so much to get them sitting stock (about 11 degrees, due to their higher spring rate). Hope this helps.


http://vw.zenseeker.net/Wheels-TorsionBars.htm

[plasticblack]

Thanks for the link Deano..

 I'd be lying if I said I understood all that technical gumpf

   I think I'm just going to have to create a starting point for myself and attempt to get thinks matched up as best as possible..

     I've got some jobs to do before that point anyway, so it will give me a little more time to get thinks straight in my own mind.

       Thanks for the info/advice 

[Russell]

My advice would be buy a new set of 26mm or 29mm if you intend to race the car, when you fit them use a degree angle level about £20 online, get them both at the same angle and aligning with the top of the rear bottom hole of the housing, when you lift them into place they should be the same, ensure pan is level before using deg tool, after this you can adjust either side u or down a spline as required

[slowlearner]

My advice would be buy a new set of 26mm or 29mm if you intend to race the car, when you fit them use a degree angle level about £20 online, get them both at the same angle and aligning with the top of the rear bottom hole of the housing, when you lift them into place they should be the same, ensure pan is level before using deg tool, after this you can adjust either side u or down a spline as required

+1

Do it once. Do it properly. 

[deano]

I agree. I would look at the 24mm Sway-A-Way bars even for a stocker, and just preload them at 11 degrees for a stock height. These are super easy to install, compared to stock. Less load and windup!

[plasticblack]

I agree. I would look at the 24mm Sway-A-Way bars even for a stocker, and just preload them at 11 degrees for a stock height. These are super easy to install, compared to stock. Less load and windup!

 Does anyone have a link for these 'sway away' bars please?

   Paul

[deano]

http://www.swayaway.com/TorsionBars.php

Here is the parent company's web site.. They have been around for decades... Often called SAW instead of Sway-A-Way.

[plasticblack]

 Just checked the UK price for these torsion bars.. 

   Probably going to go with some new standard torsions or a second hand set..

      These may be $200 in the states but they are nearer £250 ($375) in the UK...

        Not in my budget I'm afraid. 
 

[Jon]

You will get there with a little more wrenching and stock bars. Set them with the protractor, keep turning the last one until it reads the same as the first one ( before lifting them up on the stopper). With used bares there are no garanties, so you need to drive it around the block to see if it's level. Then you adjust it, 5.5 mm pr notch. More wrenching, but cheap.

[plasticblack]

You will get there with a little more wrenching and stock bars. Set them with the protractor, keep turning the last one until it reads the same as the first one ( before lifting them up on the stopper). With used bares there are no garanties, so you need to drive it around the block to see if it's level. Then you adjust it, 5.5 mm pr notch. More wrenching, but cheap.

 Seems like my best option really. I can't afford to spend £250 on torsion bars. I'll try and find a good second-hand set which will cost a fraction of the sway aways.

 I'd love a new set obviously, but just can't set aside the cash for them?