Phil West
|
|
« on: August 19, 2013, 17:58:12 pm » |
|
Hi all,
I've fitted a Jaycee straight shot adaptor to my case per pic. I've removed the oil relief spring and piston completely. Looking at the case (and the pic) I see I need to drill and tap the small hole just above the relief piston plug, the hole that I think drains excess oil that gets past the relief piston? I will use an 1/8NPT plug. I see a small orange plug in this location in the pic. Has anyone else used this adaptor, am I missing any other required mods. I've removed the stock cooler, have a blanking plate that allows oil to flow straight through. So I don't have the top two orange plugs at the oil cooler per pic, or the smaller one right above the outlet of the new red adaptor.
Cheers Phil
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
WPS
|
|
« Reply #1 on: August 19, 2013, 21:41:20 pm » |
|
Hi Phil, Put two relief valve plungers back to back in the rear relief valve and one of those bugpack/empi adjustable plugs so you can tighten the plungers to block the hole.You'll need a relief valve oil filter head Scat or Jaycee etc and return to the sump. To block the oil cooler circuit I use a 1/4" npt plug, it's tricky to tap but I extend the tap in a small 1/4" socket set and extension also drill and tap the case where the oil cooler bolts on...you'll save all that weight of the cooler block off If none of this makes sense give me a call tomorrow and I'll explain further. Cheers Ian
|
|
|
Logged
|
Wolfsburg Performance Services
WolfsburgPerformance.co.uk
Instagram: wpsengines
07880-311850.
|
|
|
JamieL
|
|
« Reply #2 on: August 19, 2013, 22:57:10 pm » |
|
Hi Phil, As Ian says - we did similar with Jonny's motor... However, in addition to plugging the stock 'cooler points and left case half at the stock oil pump outlet, we also custom made a non-threaded T shape plug to fit in the horizontal gallery above the new bypass inlet fitting as the tiny little vertical plug is barely held by a single full thread; perhaps a nuance of individual case machining but we felt it was too precariously fitted to risk it being dislodged by proper 80psi pressure and subsequently dropping out thereby causing at best a series of bad leaks or worst case restricting flow through the main gallery...
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Jonny Grigg
|
|
« Reply #3 on: August 20, 2013, 06:31:08 am » |
|
Jamie beat me to it! As said above, we blocked the oil cooler off on both the inlet and outlet as Ian described. I guess it is better than using an oil-cooler bypass fitting as there is less in the system that is 'dead headed'. By doing this you lose the stock oil pressure fitting location from the circuit, so we mounted it on the discharge side of the filter head. We are using a JayCee bypass filter head that dumps back to the sump via a #8 fitting welded to the deep sump.
As Jamie described, the little Allen bolt between the main gallery and the one above (near to where the adaptor enters the case) is rubbish. The material thickness there is 4/5ths of nothing. We made a small aluminium plug that is the diameter of the gallery on the thinner shank. It has an o ring on the shoulder and is compressed into place by the block off plug where a normal full flow adaptor enters the case. This pretty much seals it, but there will be some residual bleed around it, which is no big deal if you have blocked the original pressure sender hole and the inlet side of the cooler at the top of the gallery. If you pm me your phone or email I'll send you a picture of the sketch I did for the machine shop with dimensions- no pictures if the final thing though, sorry. The plug as a tapped thread on the end so we can put a bolt in it and pull it out for whatever reason in the future. Simple, but does the job.
We also put the original pistons back to back as Ian described in the chamber by the flywheel. I didn't use an adjustable fitting as everything compressed nicely with the stock screw-in plug, but I guess each case is slightly different.
Also, when you first crank the motor you'll get a shock from how much pressure you get using this bad boy! My motor makes 60 psi on the starter, and sits flat at 80psi when running as the filter head bleeds it off. When we first ran the engine we saw 100psi on the instruments!
Any other help, just ask.
Cheers,
Jonny.
|
|
|
Logged
|
No Compromise. O/FF111
|
|
|
Phil West
|
|
« Reply #4 on: August 20, 2013, 09:29:04 am » |
|
Thanks guys. Here's a pic of the front bleed hole that I tapped this morning, which fortunately was a nice easy job.
Jonny, I think you were unlucky - I checked my (stock) case this morning and there's loads of thickness on the vertical plug, at least as thick as a 1/4 npt plug. I'm guessing your case is likely aftermarket? Anyway looks like I can get away with normal tap and plug on that one per Ian's comments.
Cheers Phil
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
dannyboy
|
|
« Reply #5 on: August 20, 2013, 19:10:15 pm » |
|
a nice cad plated plug would look nice in there phil
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Jonny Grigg
|
|
« Reply #6 on: August 20, 2013, 19:32:49 pm » |
|
Sounds like you've got it sorted!
Yes my case is a CB aluminium one, so I guess there is the difference right there.
When are you aiming to have it together?
|
|
|
Logged
|
No Compromise. O/FF111
|
|
|
Bernard Newbury
|
|
« Reply #7 on: August 21, 2013, 16:57:29 pm » |
|
a nice cad plated plug would look nice in there phil Think of the weight, young Pike my lad
|
|
|
Logged
|
Before you jump, check the depth.
|
|
|
Phil West
|
|
« Reply #8 on: August 21, 2013, 20:15:16 pm » |
|
a nice cad plated plug would look nice in there phil Wait till you see the motor, it's yellow-zinc-tastic!
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Phil West
|
|
« Reply #9 on: August 21, 2013, 20:17:12 pm » |
|
Sounds like you've got it sorted!
Yes my case is a CB aluminium one, so I guess there is the difference right there.
When are you aiming to have it together?
Gonna be another month I reckon so I'm pushing my luck this year. Defo early doors next season at worst though.
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
dannyboy
|
|
« Reply #10 on: August 21, 2013, 22:53:06 pm » |
|
a nice cad plated plug would look nice in there phil Wait till you see the motor, it's yellow-zinc-tastic! have you had the nitrous foggers cad plated as well? ??
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
NoBars
|
|
« Reply #11 on: August 21, 2013, 22:57:13 pm » |
|
I would love to dow7 my mag case.
|
|
|
Logged
|
My real name is Anthony Consorte.
|
|
|
Phil West
|
|
« Reply #12 on: November 25, 2013, 11:56:40 am » |
|
Hi Phil, Put two relief valve plungers back to back in the rear relief valve and one of those bugpack/empi adjustable plugs so you can tighten the plungers to block the hole.You'll need a relief valve oil filter head Scat or Jaycee etc and return to the sump. To block the oil cooler circuit I use a 1/4" npt plug, it's tricky to tap but I extend the tap in a small 1/4" socket set and extension also drill and tap the case where the oil cooler bolts on...you'll save all that weight of the cooler block off If none of this makes sense give me a call tomorrow and I'll explain further. Cheers Ian Finally got it done - took a couple of taps and a new socket but got there in the end......
|
|
« Last Edit: November 25, 2013, 11:58:44 am by Phil West »
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Jon
Administrator
Hero Member
Posts: 3214
12,3@174km/t at Gardermoen 2008
|
|
« Reply #13 on: November 25, 2013, 13:02:34 pm » |
|
Hi Phil, how do bearing number 4 get access to oil with that plug in there?
|
|
|
Logged
|
Grumpy old men have signatures like this.
|
|
|
richie
|
|
« Reply #14 on: November 25, 2013, 13:06:27 pm » |
|
Hi Phil
Out of interest how are you going to read oil pressure? looking at the top picture your oil cooler blanking plate[ if you are still using it? ] will let oil go backwards towards the oil light switch hole, is that what you intended? now you have blocked the oil bleed hole I would think you want to tap and plug the oil cooler holes like Ian mentioned? Looking at that pic I think I would have left the bleed hole open and just blocked the oil cooler holes, thus allowing the use of the stock idiot light position. I would only block that hole if I was 6 studding the case as the top stud that side goes into the oil gallery
cheers Richie
|
|
|
Logged
|
Cars are supposed to be driven, not just talked about!!! Good parts might be expensive but good advice is priceless
|
|
|
Phil West
|
|
« Reply #15 on: November 25, 2013, 14:26:17 pm » |
|
Hi Phil
Out of interest how are you going to read oil pressure? looking at the top picture your oil cooler blanking plate[ if you are still using it? ] will let oil go backwards towards the oil light switch hole, is that what you intended? now you have blocked the oil bleed hole I would think you want to tap and plug the oil cooler holes like Ian mentioned? Looking at that pic I think I would have left the bleed hole open and just blocked the oil cooler holes, thus allowing the use of the stock idiot light position. I would only block that hole if I was 6 studding the case as the top stud that side goes into the oil gallery
cheers Richie
Yep already blocked off the oil cooler per pic. Pressure will be taken from in-line fitting before the Jaycee straight shot fitting.
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
richie
|
|
« Reply #16 on: November 25, 2013, 16:11:59 pm » |
|
Cool, I hope you are going to cut off the old oil cooler mounting tabs there that you no longer use? cheers Richie
|
|
|
Logged
|
Cars are supposed to be driven, not just talked about!!! Good parts might be expensive but good advice is priceless
|
|
|
Phil West
|
|
« Reply #17 on: November 25, 2013, 18:41:34 pm » |
|
Cool, I hope you are going to cut off the old oil cooler mounting tabs there that you no longer use? cheers Richie Nice idea...just need to be a little careful not to make many sparks while cutting the mag!
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
dannyboy
|
|
« Reply #18 on: November 25, 2013, 20:15:29 pm » |
|
phill i just realised i never posted that lambda plug do you still want it?if so ill get it in the post
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Phil West
|
|
« Reply #19 on: November 25, 2013, 20:35:41 pm » |
|
phill i just realised i never posted that lambda plug do you still want it?if so ill get it in the post
Yes pls mate meant to mail you the last few days and forgot
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Phil West
|
|
« Reply #20 on: November 25, 2013, 20:37:31 pm » |
|
Hi Phil, how do bearing number 4 get access to oil with that plug in there?
But #4 gets oil on the t-piece branch from #3, see pic. So putting this plug in has no effect on oiling to #4.
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Jon
Administrator
Hero Member
Posts: 3214
12,3@174km/t at Gardermoen 2008
|
|
« Reply #21 on: November 25, 2013, 22:16:05 pm » |
|
Hi Phil, how do bearing number 4 get access to oil with that plug in there?
But #4 gets oil on the t-piece branch from #3, see pic. So putting this plug in has no effect on oiling to #4. Right you are, I never followed that branch. Since oil is theoreticaly uncompressable, is there realy any point of blocking these parts off?
|
|
|
Logged
|
Grumpy old men have signatures like this.
|
|
|
NoBars
|
|
« Reply #22 on: December 01, 2013, 00:54:12 am » |
|
Those aluminum cases are heavy. I think yiu are going to need to drill more holes in that car.
|
|
|
Logged
|
My real name is Anthony Consorte.
|
|
|
Phil West
|
|
« Reply #23 on: December 04, 2013, 18:42:14 pm » |
|
Those aluminum cases are heavy. I think yiu are going to need to drill more holes in that car.
This is a mag case......
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Phil West
|
|
« Reply #24 on: December 04, 2013, 18:44:06 pm » |
|
Hi Phil, how do bearing number 4 get access to oil with that plug in there?
But #4 gets oil on the t-piece branch from #3, see pic. So putting this plug in has no effect on oiling to #4. Right you are, I never followed that branch. Since oil is theoreticaly uncompressable, is there realy any point of blocking these parts off? I calculate 400ml of oil in those passages which I would rather have going to my mainbearings etc.
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
NoBars
|
|
« Reply #25 on: December 04, 2013, 20:13:29 pm » |
|
Those aluminum cases are heavy. I think yiu are going to need to drill more holes in that car.
This is a mag case...... It looks aluminum. Caustic mag wheel cleaner to get it so bright? I couldn't do the aluminum case either. F'n expensive a new mag case was.
|
|
|
Logged
|
My real name is Anthony Consorte.
|
|
|
Phil West
|
|
« Reply #26 on: December 05, 2013, 08:54:10 am » |
|
Those aluminum cases are heavy. I think yiu are going to need to drill more holes in that car.
This is a mag case...... It looks aluminum. Caustic mag wheel cleaner to get it so bright? Mini DA followed by glass bead blast. Followed by loads of cleaning cycles - solvent tank, pressure washer etc.
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Phil West
|
|
« Reply #27 on: December 05, 2013, 13:03:28 pm » |
|
Cool, I hope you are going to cut off the old oil cooler mounting tabs there that you no longer use? cheers Richie A massive 20g saved and it looks much better!
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
richie
|
|
« Reply #28 on: December 05, 2013, 15:28:14 pm » |
|
That looks really nice Phil So does the 400ml of oil that wont be wasted in the galleys you blocked off weigh more or less than the plugs you installed? I know you have got ot have thought about it cheers Richie
|
|
|
Logged
|
Cars are supposed to be driven, not just talked about!!! Good parts might be expensive but good advice is priceless
|
|
|
NoBars
|
|
« Reply #29 on: December 05, 2013, 15:36:31 pm » |
|
I use Superclean caustic mag wheel cleaner and scotchbrite, same thing, lots of cleaning, then coat liberally with Gibbs brand penetrant. It seems to hold up pretty good.
Are you using an external cooler or is your car not to be a street car anymore?
|
|
|
Logged
|
My real name is Anthony Consorte.
|
|
|
|