Weber emulsion tube chart

[folkevogn]

As the subject says, I'm trying to find a chart that describes the characteristics of the different emulsion tubes. I remember seeing one here on the Lounge(I think) sometime ago but I cant find it. Tried to google it but the closest i got was a hand written note. The reason for asking is that my new engine is running a little bit rich around 4500-5000rpm(lambda ca 0,8) and leans out at around 7000rpm(lambda 0,95+ if I remember correctly). On the dyno we ended up using F9's(what we had in hand) with 165 main and 170 air. I have swapped the 165 main with a 170 to be on the safe side at the top end of the rpm range but I would like to try other emulsion tubes to see if it can cure the "problem". I haven't had the time to put on the cooling tins and try it on the street yet so I'm not sure how it feels driving around in traffic. I maid three passes down the 1/4 mile at SCC 2013 and couldn't feel it being rich(not building up power as it does above 5000rpm), but then again the engine probably spent most of it time above 5000rpm   (not sure, to busy keeping my eyes on the road). Anyway, from the information I have found it seems like I should try F2's or F11's. Any thoughts on this subject would be appreciated, any no funny jokes about swapping the carbs for EFI please  

Further plans:

1. Try the JPM venturies
2. Put on stepped and tuned to length header.

I will do all the improvements step by step on the dyno to see how it affects the torque and horsepower. I'm not sure but these improvements(hopefully ) might also affect the lambda values through the rpm range.

[Speed-demon]

If I were you I woud change to some kind of programmable crank trigger ignition too. And make some more runs in Jee's dyno...

[JS]

A programmable what? 

[MeXX]

As the subject says, I'm trying to find a chart that describes the characteristics of the different emulsion tubes. 2. Put on stepped and tuned to length header.

Hi

This is one of the best and most detailed lists.

http://www.webercarburatori.com/?p=handbook&s=2

MeXX

[folkevogn]

If I were you I woud change to some kind of programmable crank trigger ignition too. And make some more runs in Jee's dyno...

Hehe, I knew this subject would come up and you are so right, BUT ... then there's "the look". I have a dewil on one shoulder telling me to go for a crank trigger or latest MSD system with adjustable timing advance, and on the other shoulder there's a angel telling me to stick with "the look". As you know I'm currently using a Mallory(not very old school, but closer than a MSD or crank trigger application) with a point. It proved to be reasonably stable until ca 6000rpm and a little "shaky" from 6000-8000rpm. We also did a pull with a MSD(AL 6 I think) which proved to be much more stable above 6000rpm, but they both gave the same number on the dyno. I'm gone test the Mallory with a optic point to see if it helps keeping the advance more stable at high rpm and try to smooth out the lamda values with different emulsion tubes for a start and take it from there. Funny how we trow a lot of money into a engine build and then use a ignition system with point   maybe it's "the look" that is the dewil on the shoulder  

[folkevogn]

As the subject says, I'm trying to find a chart that describes the characteristics of the different emulsion tubes. 2. Put on stepped and tuned to length header.

Hi

This is one of the best and most detailed lists.

http://www.webercarburatori.com/?p=handbook&s=2

MeXX

Thanks MeXX, I will check it out.

[Speed-demon]

Knasten makes trigger pattern on the flywheel. I think that you van run modern ignotion without anyone noticing....

[folkevogn]

Knasten makes trigger pattern on the flywheel. I think that you van run modern ignotion without anyone noticing....

I would know  but I might have to consider this at some point, as for now, I'm sticking with my ignition setup to see how it works with the optic point and hopefully the change of emulsion tube will fix the other "problem".