Questions about carbs. (And I Finally got that 15!!! )

[Dead Dog]

well over £6k and that stock gearbox wont last long

that^^^ you're not going to do it on the couple of k you sold the T IV for. if you do it you need to commit to spending that money not cutting corners, sorry if this sounds like I'm trying to piss on your fire, but I know you  I'm actually trying to give you the best advice I can and save you wasting everyone's time and your money,

Build that 1641/79 or  1914, do it right, get it running right, have the sense of achievement.

*edit*
I just spent ages writing, and it did sound like I was just having a go at you 
I'm not.
Good luck

[TexasTom]

Build your 1914, use larger venturis in your 40IDFs and SAVE your money till you can afford to start BREAKING parts!
Just my opinion ... Nothing so much fun as dreaming about the 'ultimate' combo ... but if You dream like I do, you better start setting aside $$$$$$$!
 
TxT

[steve_pugh]

It's all cool.  I know nobody is getting at me or having a go.  Just trying to help. 

I guess I'm just struggling with the cost.   To build a mild 1914 vs a mild 2276 doesn't seem a whole heap different other than chosing different parts.  I realise that to do it and make an all out race engine it will cost loads.  But I couldn't help seeing this quote on jase's thread

He has Steve Tims 40x35.5 heads, about 9:1, FK7 with 1.4's, 1 5/8" and IDA's. It's no racecar engine, but it still puts a big grin on your face.

This to me appears to be a "mild" 2276.  The heads I have for the 1641 are 40x35.... Not that I'm considering using them at all. But my point is that I could.  I could tho and put the effort inside and leave it hanging in the heads, ignition and carbs making a "grin" engine but not a full on race engine.  But could easily be sorted with upping the heads and carbs later and adding an MSD.  But the hard work is inside the case. 

What would make things easier for me would be if guys that have a 1914 could post a full spec and likewise a 2276. And I can plot side by side the actual costs.     I think I'm struggling do far as I've done is with my knowledge and the only difference appears to be in machining sizes and crank sizes etc.  I'm missing where the extra £3grand is gonna come from.   

Thanks again guys.   

[richie]

Steve

Here's a parts list for turnkey engine with NO tin or cooling included as its for a race car, everything is new, what do you figure that will all cost ?  I did it all off the top of my head so maybe missed something, hopefully not. I haven't included any prices to see what you make it cost? this doesn't include any machine work or building the engine either, this could be any bore and stroke, you could use what heads you like etc but this is the basis for what you asked

Mag case, bored for xx, stroke clearanced, full flowed
Chromoly crank, flywheel, pulley, kennedy clutch cover and clutch disc
Wedgeport heads with match ported manifolds
Idas with linkage and 44mm vents, jetted
Gland nut
Crank end play shims
H beam rods
Pulley bolt
case hardware kit
Case nut kit
Mahle barrels and pistons
Engle cam and lifters
Bolt on cam gear or straight cut gears
Cam plug
Crank gear set
Dizzy drive gear and shims
Crank oil seal
Full flow oil pump and cover
Deep sump[ 2 quart] and sump drain plate
Main, rod and cam bearings
Head studs
Cut to length push rods
Push rod tubes
Gasket set
ratio rockers
Rocker covers
MSD dizzy, coil, leads and MSD 6al ignition box
Oil filter mount and filter, hose and fittings
Oil cooler block off
Fuel pump block off
Exhaust header
Spark plugs


so how much?

cheers Richie

[Zach Gomulka]

My friends' motor is mild. He had those parts lying around so that's what he used. Don't let the "small" valve sizes throw you off, properly done 40x35.5 heads combined with the right combo got the 2276 in Dave Conklin's 67 into the 12's.

[judgie]

the power is in the heads and cost the same weather your hanging them on a 1600 or a 2276.
just because the engine is bigger dont mean its going to make more power, it'll just make the power in a different place.
you need to match the power rev range to what gearing you have, no good haveing a high reving peaky motor and wide spaced gearing as it'll drop out of the rev range when you change gear.
in a street weight car your going to need some torque to make it quick so the bigger engine is easyer to get the torque but harder[ read that as expensive] to get higher peak power from
getting a heavy crank and big pistons to rev is hard on the components, geting the flywheel to stay put on a heavy car is also something you need to look into.
if it was me doing it i would keep it a 69x90.5 and make it rev.
also getting the car weight down is going to help as you have a heavy car [in race car terms]