Valve clearances HELP and starting problems

[shytawk]

 Hi, can anyone tell me what the valve clearances are on a 2276 motor with chromolly pushrods
.
 Secondly the motor is very difficult to start, though it has Pertronix dizzy,  leads and a flame thrower coil (all new), can someone recommend what plugs i should be using, or any other advice that can help solve the problem.

It has 48 ida's and runs sweet throughout the rev range once it is started, but as stated is an absolute bitch to start, hot or cold.

Thanks in advance Phill.

[Donny B.]

Check your timing.  If the timing is too far advanced it can cause a problem.  How is the compression.

[shytawk]

 I have not checked the compression but it is a almost new engine (500 miles) and thats why i thought the valves may be tight leading to a loss of compression.

 The timing is fine, there was  no detonation when accelerating in a high gear, and i backed it off a degree or two and it is still a mare to start.

 Thanks Phill.

[Jesse/DVK]

Chromolly pushrods is zero clearance. I always check if I can still rotate the pushrod with my fingers.

[shytawk]

Chromolly pushrods is zero clearance. I always check if I can still rotate the pushrod with my fingers.

 That is what i thought was correct, but needed to have confirmation before setting, thanks Jesse  

Incidentally, is it better to set the timing to 9 deg ??  at tick-over, because i am sure i have read somewhere to set timing at 36 deg fully advanced.

Lastly, i would  still like some advice on a good plug for normal street driving,

 cheers guys.

[richie]

Chromolly pushrods is zero clearance. I always check if I can still rotate the pushrod with my fingers.

 That is what i thought was correct, but needed to have confirmation before setting, thanks Jesse  

Incidentally, is it better to set the timing to 9 deg ??  at tick-over, because i am sure i have read somewhere to set timing at 36 deg fully advanced.

Lastly, i would  still like some advice on a good plug for normal street driving,

 cheers guys.

To recommend a plug we would need to know what heads it has to then know what style and reach plug they take or what plugs are in it now . Also what compression would be useful

In my opinion 36degrees full advanced is way to much for a hot street engine, but without knowing more its difficult to say 100% I would start with 30 total, which pertronix dizzy does it have? the 009 style or the MSD style?
 
What is the jetting in the IDAs? do they give a good squirt of fuel when you open the throttle? the accel pumps can stick which would make it a bitch to start for sure, even if the valves were to tight cold they wouldn't be when its hot so its unlikely that is causing the problem

cheers Richie

[shytawk]

 Firstly, about the dizzy, it is a Flamethrower Ignitor 2 billet dizzy by Pertronix.  

The plugs currently in the engine are NGK DP8EA    9.

The carbs have good squirt and i believe the idle jets are 55's not sure of the mains.

 I have not actually set the timing yet, just backed it off slightly hoping it would help the problem ,(it didn't)  but as it was, once started the car ran  and pulled well, with virtually no stutter or hesitation.

Lastly, i looked at the invoice for engine parts, and the only info on the heads is that they are Brothers, no further details.

[richie]

Well you don't need DP8ea, A D7ea would be a better choice I think, try swapping those out and see what happens, those NGK D range don't seem to like being flooded/fouled up at all and don't recover from it, 8s will foul up to easily so could well be the problem.
 

cheers Richie

[Jim Ratto]

NGK makes an Iridium plug in the 3/4" x 12mm thread. In the 48IDA cars I have used them in, the carburetors were much more forgiving to fine tune and do start easier as well. If you're interested look for part number DR7EIX. Even Henry's 2276 with 287' @ .050 cam idled rock solid @ 1100rpm with them. You don't gap these.

55 idle jets might be on the small side for your 2276. Once it starts- does it idle acceptably? How many turns out are your mixture screws? If you're having to turn them out farther than 1 fulll turn from bottom, in order to get it to idle, they're probably too small. What size idle air holders are in your carbs?

[shytawk]

Well you don't need DP8ea, A D7ea would be a better choice I think, try swapping those out and see what happens, those NGK D range don't seem to like being flooded/fouled up at all and don't recover from it, 8s will foul up to easily so could well be the problem.
 

cheers Richie

Thanks Richie, the D7ea's are on order, it would be good if that is the problem solved.

Cheers Phill.

[shytawk]

NGK makes an Iridium plug in the 3/4" x 12mm thread. In the 48IDA cars I have used them in, the carburetors were much more forgiving to fine tune and do start easier as well. If you're interested look for part number DR7EIX. Even Henry's 2276 with 287' @ .050 cam idled rock solid @ 1100rpm with them. You don't gap these.

55 idle jets might be on the small side for your 2276. Once it starts- does it idle acceptably? How many turns out are your mixture screws? If you're having to turn them out farther than 1 fulll turn from bottom, in order to get it to idle, they're probably too small. What size idle air holders are in your carbs?

Hi Jim, the plugs you mention are not easy to find here in U.K and postage and duty from the states is crippling, so i will try those recommended by Richie first.
The car idles nicely with the mixture screws 1.5 turns out so maybe 55 are a bit small, the engine should still want to fire surely???
 The symptoms of it not starting are.....the high torque starter turns the motor over and as the engine starts to fire, the starter motor has to be kept engaged until the engine eventually has enough speed to run on its own.
My thoughts are that there may be a problem with the pertronix module, is there a method of testing this before investing in a new one?
Thanks guys for your help so far, Phill.