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Author Topic: Is this case usable?  (Read 4855 times)
steve_pugh
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« on: January 25, 2014, 11:59:02 am »

I have gotten hold of a case that on the whole is mint.   It was a 2276 but The crank had jammed and on inspection when the engine was split,  the end bearing dowel has come loose and ovaled the hole.
The previous owner was going to repair it but opted for a new race case. And all of the bits were fine and all the engine internals were not damaged and is now running as a complete engine with a new case.  

Is THIS case now toast or is it save able?  
I've heard that a new hole can be drilled and fit the bearing round 180degrees.  
It would be a shame if this case could not be reused.  


« Last Edit: January 25, 2014, 12:02:09 pm by steve_pugh » Logged

leec
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« Reply #1 on: January 25, 2014, 12:58:57 pm »

It's a mag case?
Welding is slightly trickier on them, but I'd say repair it. Just depends on the cost to you I guess
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Chuck Fryer
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« Reply #2 on: January 25, 2014, 15:30:27 pm »

I know I will catch hell on this, but.....
I have repaired that same problem with JB weld! Not in a stocker either, in a 2332 11 sec engine. It has held for years, the pin is no longer removable.
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steve_pugh
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« Reply #3 on: January 25, 2014, 15:45:10 pm »

Yeah it's a mag case.   It's too light to be Ali.
It cost me zero to buy.   
Basically I want to put together a street engine.  This engine won't be raced. I have all the internal components and have this case which is a Brazil as41 and I also have a single relief case. 
Both of which used to be 2276 and as such need no machining / clearancing. 
But both have their downsides.    One is single relief... And this one has the dowel issue.   

The spec will be a forged 82mm CW Crank, AA pistons, a w125 cam and 44idfs.   
Heads TBC..

The obvious answer is a new Autolinea case. But that's not on the cards.   

Love the JB weld answer! I have used JB weld for loads of stuff.  The stories you hear of it repairing cracks in engine cases are nuts.   
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Jon
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« Reply #4 on: January 25, 2014, 16:47:44 pm »

Why not just oversize the dowel and hole?
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Terry Hoogstins
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« Reply #5 on: January 25, 2014, 16:54:05 pm »

Sure if the bearing bore is correct with proper bearing crush than use jb weld , the pin is for alignment purpose only it is not meant to hold the bearing in place . Check your oil hole alignment and scribe the outside of the bearing at the case half to double check when installing the crank . Most likely the case needs align boring when seizing a main bearing
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steve_pugh
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« Reply #6 on: January 25, 2014, 21:39:36 pm »

This is all reassuring. Do you think I'll be better fixing this case than using a good single relief case?
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Warks_Dubber
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« Reply #7 on: January 25, 2014, 23:59:36 pm »

You're a busy chap! Grin
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Mike Lawless
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« Reply #8 on: January 31, 2014, 00:42:57 am »

I know I will catch hell on this, but.....
I have repaired that same problem with JB weld! Not in a stocker either, in a 2332 11 sec engine. It has held for years, the pin is no longer removable.

I've done this too. Same deal. 2332 making close to 250hp. Other stuff failed before that JB Welded in pin did.
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Udo
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« Reply #9 on: January 31, 2014, 12:58:32 pm »

Make shure there is no gap between the case halfes when bolted together. if it is i would not linebore it
if not you can weld it or oversize the pin
Udo
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steve_pugh
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« Reply #10 on: January 31, 2014, 13:24:24 pm »

Make shure there is no gap between the case halfes when bolted together. if it is i would not linebore it
if not you can weld it or oversize the pin
Udo

Thanks Udo.   
So if there is a gap between he case halfs is it time to make a coffee table out of this case then?

It has been suggested that I drill be hole out to take a 10mm thread and cut an old pushrod. Thread the outside to 10mm and insert and cut flush.  The inner diameter of a pushrod is apparently he same as a bearing dowel.   
This sounds like a sturdy idea rather than welding it. 
What are your thoughts?
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steve_pugh
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« Reply #11 on: February 15, 2014, 12:50:44 pm »

It's done.  This repair was brilliant and looks great now its done. 
What we did was driil it to take a 10mm thread then cut a std pushrod and then cut a 10mm thread on it. Screwed it in with some locktite, cut the pushrod and rotary filed it down.
Job done. The oil gallery in the stock pushrod is the same size as the bearing dowel.


« Last Edit: February 15, 2014, 12:55:09 pm by steve_pugh » Logged

steve_pugh
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« Reply #12 on: February 19, 2014, 10:38:52 am »

Got the case all cleaned and will be assembling the bottom end to see how well it all clears.   I also need to get rid of all the traces of copper silicone the previous owner seemed to think was a good idea to put everywhere!





The crank is ready and has been sent off for a balance.
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fish
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« Reply #13 on: February 19, 2014, 13:33:32 pm »


Good work on saving the case, are you going to have the rotating assembly balanced together?

I usually balance separately to 0 incase the need to change any of the components.
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steve_pugh
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« Reply #14 on: February 19, 2014, 13:53:08 pm »


Good work on saving the case, are you going to have the rotating assembly balanced together?

I usually balance separately to 0 incase the need to change any of the components.

Yes I agree.  I assembled it loosely for transport. But they are gonna balance the crank first. Then add bits.  Fly, clutch etc. Till it's all balanced.  That way if I need to change a clutch plate I can.   
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