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Reinforced clutch tube
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Topic: Reinforced clutch tube (Read 10062 times)
Jon
Administrator
Hero Member
Posts: 3214
12,3@174km/t at Gardermoen 2008
Reinforced clutch tube
«
on:
July 05, 2006, 11:16:10 am »
I'm about to do some small welding to my pan, and I have read Gene Bergs instructions for the KEP stage 2, open up a hole in the tunnel and weld it down.
Anyone done this, seem wise to do, but has anyone really had problems with the KEP 2... or the KEP stage 1?
Advise please
Jon H
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Grumpy old men have signatures like this.
Petter Carlberg
Jr. Member
Posts: 93
Re: Reinforced clutch tube
«
Reply #1 on:
July 05, 2006, 14:03:41 pm »
I havn´t done it. Stage II since 1998.
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Jon
Administrator
Hero Member
Posts: 3214
12,3@174km/t at Gardermoen 2008
Re: Reinforced clutch tube
«
Reply #2 on:
July 06, 2006, 11:27:55 am »
Thanks, I dont't think I will bother. If it comes loose its a easy fix...
I have a additional question... somewhat related, I got a box with 3.88 R/P 4.11, 2.46, 1.65, 1.26 gears.
What kind of engine torque/hp should I look for in my engine to realy get my stock weight looker to move?
And how fast?? Swedish fast.... ;-)
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Grumpy old men have signatures like this.
Mangokid
Full Member
Posts: 150
"Inhale the world", (in memory of MH)
Re: Reinforced clutch tube
«
Reply #3 on:
July 06, 2006, 13:20:04 pm »
ehm, off track Johnny, but, didn't you initially get the box built to match the engine you ran at the time? Why not keep to that engine then? Or is it about quest for more power/speed?
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To really know the edge and what lies beyond, one must have passed it.
Jon
Administrator
Hero Member
Posts: 3214
12,3@174km/t at Gardermoen 2008
Re: Reinforced clutch tube
«
Reply #4 on:
July 06, 2006, 13:57:55 pm »
The engine I built it for has never excited, but I have had something similar. Now I want it dead on...
The quest is always on... within a few given boundaries...
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Grumpy old men have signatures like this.
Roman
Hero Member
Posts: 656
Re: Reinforced clutch tube
«
Reply #5 on:
July 06, 2006, 17:34:59 pm »
Quote from: JHU on July 06, 2006, 11:27:55 am
I have a additional question... somewhat related, I got a box with 3.88 R/P 4.11, 2.46, 1.65, 1.26 gears.
What kind of engine torque/hp should I look for in my engine to realy get my stock weight looker to move?
And how fast?? Swedish fast.... ;-)
I got 228 but it is a 774 kg car with driver. 11.71 and there is potential for a lot more. I am not satisfied with Swedish fast, I wanna go Finnish fast!
Dyno sheet here!
Niclas has 250 in his "Herbie" and he has a 11.74 record. A heavyer car though.
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BeetleBug
Hero Member
Posts: 2836
Snabba grabben...
Re: Reinforced clutch tube
«
Reply #6 on:
July 06, 2006, 22:46:41 pm »
"I am not satisfied with Swedish fast, I wanna go Finnish fast!"
Ok, so the question must be; what does it takes to be Finnish fast?
Looking at the list on the other forum there is two guys that is far ahead the others. One car is a full weight race car with 313hp and 15-1 CR, the other one is a almost full weight LOOKER from finland...impressive!
Best rgs
BeetleBug
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10.41 - 100ci - 1641ccm - 400hp
Roman
Hero Member
Posts: 656
Re: Reinforced clutch tube
«
Reply #7 on:
July 07, 2006, 05:52:22 am »
First of all : Arto is one hell of a driver!
I raced him once at Mantorp this year and he pulled a 1.60 60ft at the slippery asfalt on Mantorp this year and alnd all other was struggling to get any traction at all!
Second: His car is weird. If you look at the combo as far as I know it shouldn't be that fast, but yet it is. I would give my right arm to take it apart and look! Is it just the perfect combination? Is it some secret head modification? I know Arto is here almost daily and I would love if he would write something about the car.
Rich Dicksons car is impressive fast but with 15:1 compression, super thin 96.7 bore without cooling fins etc. it doesn't live long in the street. To me it is a top notch super street/ prostock engine in a cal-look chassis.
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Gunnar|Rennfahrer
Newbie
Posts: 43
Re: Reinforced clutch tube
«
Reply #8 on:
July 07, 2006, 06:54:37 am »
Quote from: JHU on July 05, 2006, 11:16:10 am
I'm about to do some small welding to my pan, and I have read Gene Bergs instructions for the KEP stage 2, open up a hole in the tunnel and weld it down.
Anyone done this, seem wise to do, but has anyone really had problems with the KEP 2... or the KEP stage 1?
Advise please
Jon H
I ran almost 17000km with my KEP Stage 3, no problem. But the end of the tube inside the tunnel by the pedal set, has been worn sharp and it cuts my clutch cable faster than normal.
It also wore out the "hook" that you fix the cable to on the pedal set.
Logged
Gunnar
Rennfahrers VW Club
BeetleBug
Hero Member
Posts: 2836
Snabba grabben...
Re: Reinforced clutch tube
«
Reply #9 on:
July 07, 2006, 07:27:51 am »
Quote from: Roman on July 07, 2006, 05:52:22 am
First of all : Arto is one hell of a driver!
I raced him once at Mantorp this year and he pulled a 1.60 60ft at the slippery asfalt on Mantorp this year and alnd all other was struggling to get any traction at all!
Second: His car is weird. If you look at the combo as far as I know it shouldn't be that fast, but yet it is. I would give my right arm to take it apart and look! Is it just the perfect combination? Is it some secret head modification? I know Arto is here almost daily and I would love if he would write something about the car.
Rich Dicksons car is impressive fast but with 15:1 compression, super thin 96.7 bore without cooling fins etc. it doesn't live long in the street. To me it is a top notch super street/ prostock engine in a cal-look chassis.
I agree in every word you`re saying Roman! He is a good driver and he knows his car very well. I got a video from him at Mantorp where somenone had filmed the whole 2004 season and while we have 3-4 races here in Norway he attended 10-12 races that year finishing among top three in every race - I believe practice is what makes you a good/fast driver.
Dickson`s is incredible fast - no doubt about it. It is indeed a true looker with a evil heart.
Best rgs
BeetleBug
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10.41 - 100ci - 1641ccm - 400hp
Arto Vatja
Newbie
Posts: 1
Re: Reinforced clutch tube
«
Reply #10 on:
July 11, 2006, 23:53:18 pm »
Hello!
You are right Roman, I check almost every day this forum. But I´m not sure about that "hell of driver"...
I was last weekend at dragstrip. Temperature was about 30c and track over 50c! Traction was not any good, I made 1.696 60ft. and 11.530 ET. Engine hit to rev. limiter too easily at 8700rpm, next time I will raise it to 9000. As I have said several times, the engine has no "top secrets" parts. Anyway it is a well planned combination of aftermarket parts, some V-8 stuff in valvetrain. I have noticed this year, that I´ll need a new gearbox with shorter ratios because the engine turn it much higher than last years.
Here is some photos of my current engine so no one needs to loose his arm!
And that´s why I love vw drag racing. Damn I didn´t ask her phone number...
Best Regards
Arto Vatja
«
Last Edit: July 12, 2006, 00:10:30 am by Arto Vatja
»
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Roman
Hero Member
Posts: 656
Re: Reinforced clutch tube
«
Reply #11 on:
July 12, 2006, 00:10:45 am »
Here is mine! The ports are a lot smaller and it makes power at max power at "only" 6900. At a first glance they look just like stock wedgeports. As soon as I figure out how to make decent 60 ft times I hope it will be a lot faster (11.71 with a 1.78 60 ft).
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Jon
Administrator
Hero Member
Posts: 3214
12,3@174km/t at Gardermoen 2008
Re: Reinforced clutch tube
«
Reply #12 on:
July 12, 2006, 20:43:34 pm »
Wow, info sharing!! I have heard about this phenomena...!
Big ports/ small ports, both are making good times... gives me a bit of hope
What kind of seat pressure do you guys think I should have? 48x40 steel valves, titanium retainers, titanium lashcaps, 1.4 rockers, Manton pushrods, stock VW followers and a FK89? I was thinking 170. Springs are CB "K800"
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Grumpy old men have signatures like this.
Roman
Hero Member
Posts: 656
Re: Reinforced clutch tube
«
Reply #13 on:
July 13, 2006, 01:13:13 am »
I run 170 seat pressure with JPM stock diameter valve springs and 46 mm valve. The big difference between your combo and mine is 48 instead of 46 mm valves, I have Schubeck vs your stock lifters and I also have Pauter 1.5 rockers vs your 1.4. The actual ratio of the Pauter 1.5's is 1.55 so my valve lift is 16.4 mm. Yes you read righ, 16.4! I guess 170 on he seat won't be a problem, just make sure you have enough clearance.
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Rasser
Sr. Member
Posts: 488
Re: Reinforced clutch tube
«
Reply #14 on:
July 15, 2006, 09:55:08 am »
Quote from: Roman on July 13, 2006, 01:13:13 am
I run 170 seat pressure with JPM stock diameter valve springs and 46 mm valve. The big difference between your combo and mine is 48 instead of 46 mm valves, I have Schubeck vs your stock lifters and I also have Pauter 1.5 rockers vs your 1.4. The actual ratio of the Pauter 1.5's is 1.55 so my valve lift is 16.4 mm. Yes you read righ, 16.4! I guess 170 on he seat won't be a problem, just make sure you have enough clearance.
16.4mm using JPM Double valve springs... damn!!! I was using the exact same springs and thought that my 14.14mm lift was high!
How much clearance are you running before coil bind at max lift ?
(150hp 1914ccm, w130, scat 1,25:1 (which showes that the scats are more than 1.25 eventhough advertised as 1.25) cb lightweight lifters 74gr., chromemloy retainers, 40mm valves, manton pushrods.
The engine made max power at 6700 and never experienced any valvelift (tested up to 7500)
I was using new K-motion double valve springs before i tried JPM´s springs, but the valves started to float around 6500-7000 :-( ..... new valve/seat job and JPM springs did the job.
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For a good time, call: 1-800-Cal-look
1955 type1
1966 type2 13w deluxe
Roman
Hero Member
Posts: 656
Re: Reinforced clutch tube
«
Reply #15 on:
July 16, 2006, 16:07:17 pm »
2 mm to coil bind.
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