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Author Topic: Pre-loading rear traction bar?  (Read 6180 times)
JS
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« on: August 27, 2007, 20:48:51 pm »

I´ve installed a traction bar at the rear of the engine, but how much should I tighten it?
The car has new original rubber front and rear mounts plus an intermediate mount for the trans.
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Sarge
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« Reply #1 on: August 27, 2007, 22:50:46 pm »

Think of your traction bar as an engine support, not as something to pre-load.  Get all the installation done and run the nuts up even on both sides until the traction bar is on the engine with the rear wheels on the ground...then give the nuts a couple more turns...enough to snug the bar up under the case.  I remember a guy who tightend his to the point of ripping the studs out of the rubber mounts he was using  Shocked !
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JS
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« Reply #2 on: August 27, 2007, 23:15:41 pm »

Yeah, I was thinking about the same thing. Is a small piece of rubber where the bar touches the case a must?
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Sarge
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« Reply #3 on: August 27, 2007, 23:19:12 pm »

Yeah, I was thinking about the same thing. Is a small piece of rubber where the bar touches the case a must?

No...that's for girls! Wink Grin
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DKP III
Jordy/DVK
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« Reply #4 on: August 27, 2007, 23:43:09 pm »

Does anyone have measurements of such a bar? They are relatively simple. Want to make one myself..
What gauge bar do they use and those bolts are they of an particular strength?
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JS
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« Reply #5 on: August 28, 2007, 20:08:17 pm »

Strapped it in today and went for a test drive... BIG difference! Car launched like never before!  Grin
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Shubee2 (DSK)
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« Reply #6 on: August 28, 2007, 20:32:09 pm »

Yeah, I was thinking about the same thing. Is a small piece of rubber where the bar touches the case a must?
I cut a Piece of a Truck MudFlap And Drilled two Holes on the top of the traction Bar and Riveted the Rubber Pad On, It Cuts way Down On the Noise inside the Car....
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der60er
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« Reply #7 on: December 29, 2010, 13:55:45 pm »

i found something in an other thread:
GB traction bar

Berg says mount it at a slight angle.

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Bruce
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« Reply #8 on: December 29, 2010, 20:50:56 pm »

Does anyone have measurements of such a bar? They are relatively simple. Want to make one myself..
What gauge bar do they use and those bolts are they of an particular strength?
Use 1"x1.5" square tubing.  1/8" wall.
M8 or M10 will do.  You will never break either.
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RUSS74GHIA
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« Reply #9 on: December 30, 2010, 00:40:00 am »

Now I've got to ask this, and I'm prepared to be shot down in flames, but what would be wrong with solid mounting the engine using the type2 mounting bosses on the case) and bolting this up to the bumper body mounts?
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TexasTom
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« Reply #10 on: December 30, 2010, 01:10:56 am »

Russ,
I don't see a problem with that ... just not as universal as the Berg-style mounting (or whoever invented it).
Not everyone runs a T2 or universal case ... especially, back when these were designed.

One other note, the Berg-style bar is very easily removed ... quick release at the track!

Take care,
TxT
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danny gabbard
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« Reply #11 on: December 30, 2010, 03:40:33 am »

Just a observation, With just a little over tightening you start to bend the car, Just watch decklid gaps change and if there are crappy carb windows installed or holes cut that does not help either.
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Diederick/DVK
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« Reply #12 on: December 30, 2010, 11:01:54 am »

Now I've got to ask this, and I'm prepared to be shot down in flames, but what would be wrong with solid mounting the engine using the type2 mounting bosses on the case) and bolting this up to the bumper body mounts?

i've seen this type of bar. i think even dokke ran this. it's a berg-style traction bar that mounts a little higher up on the three case mounting bosses and it has a little V shape in the middle to accommodate all 3 bolts. in the fender wells it mounts like the berg-style bar.

it's for sale in Holland; at Franky's VW service for 169 euro
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