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Author Topic: AA v Mahle  (Read 8961 times)
Beastofabug
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Posts: 63



« on: January 18, 2015, 17:25:50 pm »

hi guys looking for some advise stripped my 2332cc engine and have found a crack in no 4 cylinder they're Mahle, So looking for a new set but budgets quite tight. the AA's are a lot cheaper and I know you get what you pay for but been looking at these.

https://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC%2DC10%2D5208

Is anyone running these ? or heard of any problems ?
the bug is street/strip

Engine spec
Full flow MOFOCO AS41 Engine case
CB044 Wedge port heads 44mm inlet, 37.5 exhaust
Weber's 48 IDF’s
SCAT 84mm Stroke Counterweighted Crank
Engle FK10
5.500" Chevy journal forged con rod set
Mahle 94mm Stroker kit
Manton cut to length chromoly pushrods
steel straight cut cam gear set
SCAT Pro Comp 1.4:1 ratio rocker arms
« Last Edit: January 18, 2015, 17:44:55 pm by Beastofabug » Logged
Zach Gomulka
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Don't piss down my back and tell me it's raining.


« Reply #1 on: January 18, 2015, 17:39:26 pm »

Never heard of Marle, wouldn't trust them Wink
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Born in the '80s, stuck in the '70s.
Beastofabug
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« Reply #2 on: January 18, 2015, 17:43:57 pm »

sorry my mistake Mahle
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leec
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« Reply #3 on: January 18, 2015, 18:10:53 pm »

Just buy another Mahle, good used?
Lee
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Beastofabug
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Posts: 63



« Reply #4 on: January 18, 2015, 18:29:30 pm »

done that on a 1641 before, wasn't sure it would be a good idea on a big engine but worth a try
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BeetleBug
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Posts: 2836


Snabba grabben...


« Reply #5 on: January 18, 2015, 18:30:33 pm »

Both are China and someone told my that they are identical? The cheap AA`s comes with a warning saying max 6000 or so rpms.

-BB-
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10.41 - 100ci - 1641ccm - 400hp
richie
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Posts: 5687



« Reply #6 on: January 18, 2015, 18:38:45 pm »

So you just need a cylinder? or cylinders? pistons are good still? if so you can try getting a single cylinder to match, new or used, seems they do appear for sale but not very often, or buy a set of either AA or Mahle cylinders and sell your 3 used cylinders. I would use either brand no problem Smiley


I would be more concerned why one split on that N/A engine, something else must have been wrong to do that.

cheers Richie
 
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Cars are supposed to be driven, not just talked about!!!   


Good parts might be expensive but good advice is priceless Wink
bang
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« Reply #7 on: January 18, 2015, 18:45:44 pm »

please measure your cylinders. i have 3 used in the workshop from my 2387cc turbo engine. one was blown.
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Lids
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show me the chedder


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« Reply #8 on: January 18, 2015, 19:23:37 pm »

I heard the new mahles were softer than the old ones
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Beastofabug
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« Reply #9 on: January 18, 2015, 19:24:53 pm »

cylinder length 129.77mm I/d 93.87mm

there is some scoring on piston so looking for piston and cylinder

it is quite a ridge

 quick back story I didn't build the engine brought on vzi  turned out good parts badly put together, so had a local guy rebuild it and so far hasn't even been run since it was built just turned over on the starter. I was adjusting the dizzy drive for a pertronix dizzy and dropped the washer which jammed the brass gear and burred it so thought id strip it and do it myself this time lucky I did
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Beastofabug
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« Reply #10 on: January 18, 2015, 19:40:23 pm »


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richie
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« Reply #11 on: January 18, 2015, 19:48:55 pm »

Looks like it has 10mm head studs from that cylinder damage ? assuming that's the bottom in the picture? can't think of any other way to get that damage. I am surprised someone put it back together like that if they did Roll Eyes doesn't look like it just happened on the stand

Its hard to tell how bad the piston is worn but looks like it would go again to me if the budget is tight

cheers Richie
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Cars are supposed to be driven, not just talked about!!!   


Good parts might be expensive but good advice is priceless Wink
Beastofabug
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Posts: 63



« Reply #12 on: January 18, 2015, 20:04:52 pm »

8mm with case savers just been out to inspect case

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richie
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« Reply #13 on: January 18, 2015, 20:30:05 pm »

Any idea what caused it then? weird place to crack a cylinder
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Cars are supposed to be driven, not just talked about!!!   


Good parts might be expensive but good advice is priceless Wink
Beastofabug
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Posts: 63



« Reply #14 on: January 18, 2015, 20:42:58 pm »

no idea but it is proud
think its time to sweet talk the bank bite the bullet and go new case as well to far in to just give up
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Lids
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show me the chedder


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« Reply #15 on: January 18, 2015, 23:13:04 pm »

is the crack where it touches the case saver?
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If there's enough horse shit around, there must be a pony!
Buy your ciderberry here.

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Jim Ratto
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« Reply #16 on: January 18, 2015, 23:24:22 pm »

something get between top of piston and head? Seen this exact damage before due to debris going through motor, including the case damage.
Looks for witness marks in head.

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Beastofabug
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« Reply #17 on: January 18, 2015, 23:38:37 pm »

Crack is at the case saver is
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Jim Ratto
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« Reply #18 on: January 18, 2015, 23:49:28 pm »

that FK10 isn't that radical of a cam, but what was/is P to V clearance? I doubt valve float would have yanked the head stud like that/split a cylinder but parts running into each other sure will.
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Martin S.
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« Reply #19 on: January 20, 2015, 04:20:12 am »

I used a set of the slipper skirt AA's like you linked. At the time CIP was out of their AA forged versions so I got the cheaper ones instead. Turned out all good! The pistons were thick enough at the crown to allow some 0.080" dishing for the turbo and to keep the squish up. I opted for Total Seal top rings, but even the supplied rings were usable. The advantage of the AA slipper skirt design over the Mahles is the added support under the crown of the piston. The other hack was to get them professionally honed on a machine and they said the cylinders did need the honing to be square but I had the same thing done with Mahles years ago so no difference with that either. Get em!
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Cal Look white 68 Bug with AJ Sims EFI Turbo 2332. 194hp 240tq @ 5500 rpm 3psi boost.
K-Roc
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« Reply #20 on: January 21, 2015, 00:07:11 am »

Those case savers should be spot faced below the deck.

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max, Der Bahnstormerz
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« Reply #21 on: January 31, 2015, 20:18:57 pm »

my guess is the cylinders weren't sitting squarely to the case and the piston was forced to travel in an odd direction which caused the odd wear marks near
 the gudgeon in.
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56BLITZ
DKK
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« Reply #22 on: February 02, 2015, 03:15:00 am »

The head stud is bottomed out in the case-saver . . . the head stud is slightly too long . . . your "builder" tried to turn the head stud in to fit the rocker assembly . . . the case-saver rotated and busted the thin spigot area of the barrel . . . BUMMER!  Angry

As mentioned . . . look for a replacement P/L if the rest of the set has low running time.
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Jesucristo es mi Señor y Salvador!
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