Beastofabug
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Posts: 63
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« on: January 23, 2015, 23:28:25 pm » |
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I'm going to replace my fuel pipe from front to back running under the car at the moment I've got AN6 braided fuel pipe but want to hardline instead what is the best 5/16"(8mm) pipe to use ? Ali or SS ? and where to get it from ?
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kielbasa
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Posts: 80
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« Reply #1 on: January 24, 2015, 00:22:07 am » |
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I would suggest spending the extra time and frustration putting it through the Tunnel. Line size depends on motor. If you have or ever plan on having a nice big motor. Go 3/8 line, If not 5/16 is a good size too.
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dont you dare tell me turbo is better then N/A
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Beastofabug
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Posts: 63
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« Reply #2 on: January 24, 2015, 00:31:25 am » |
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I would suggest spending the extra time and frustration putting it through the Tunnel. Line size depends on motor. If you have or ever plan on having a nice big motor. Go 3/8 line, If not 5/16 is a good size too.
2332cc with twin 48idf's with a holley blue
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kielbasa
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Posts: 80
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« Reply #3 on: January 24, 2015, 01:50:29 am » |
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I'd go 3/8 line to be on the safe side even though 5/16 is most likely enough. I did the 3/8 through the tunnel on my old 68. And also helped a buddy do the same in his 69.
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dont you dare tell me turbo is better then N/A
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Fiatdude
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« Reply #4 on: January 24, 2015, 01:59:59 am » |
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I used 5/8" lines front to rear AL -- that way I'd never have to worry about it again (in case you might want a turbo in the future) -- then used compression fittings at the end to 1/2" pipe -- So I could adjust to whatever size to the tank and to the engine I wanted --- SS is more expensive, but easier to weld if needed --
I just did some 1/2" SS hard lines around the engine and had several split when I flared them (small cracks to the eye, but they still leak big time),,, I'm thinking it was because I used a tubing cutter to cut the tubing instead of a hack saw -- FYI
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Fiat -- GONE Ovalholio -- GONE Ghia -- -- It's going Get lost for an evening or two -- http://selvedgeyard.com/Remember, as you travel the highway of life, For every mile of road, there is 2 miles of ditch
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RIP356
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« Reply #5 on: January 24, 2015, 03:03:53 am » |
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How about just putting some braided fuel hose through the tunnel? Would that work? Thanks Dave
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Martin S.
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« Reply #6 on: January 24, 2015, 03:07:44 am » |
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I used 3/8" aluminum running along the pan. I like the idea that if there was a problem the line would be easy to get at.
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Cal Look white 68 Bug with AJ Sims EFI Turbo 2332. 194hp 240tq @ 5500 rpm 3psi boost.
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Beastofabug
Jr. Member
Posts: 63
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« Reply #7 on: January 24, 2015, 06:30:25 am » |
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I am going outside the tunnel so at least I can inspect it the original line in the tunnel leaked and when investigated there was fuel just sitting in the tunnel not good especially as I still smoked back then
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dth
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« Reply #8 on: January 24, 2015, 12:31:21 pm » |
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Speedflow or Earls for hardline , if you dont have a flaring tool , Speedflow sell olive/compression type fittings:)
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Beastofabug
Jr. Member
Posts: 63
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« Reply #9 on: January 24, 2015, 13:11:16 pm » |
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Speedflow or Earls for hardline , if you dont have a flaring tool , Speedflow sell olive/compression type fittings:)
thx i'll give them a look
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Paul Bahnstormerz
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« Reply #10 on: January 25, 2015, 18:03:29 pm » |
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I've just had Earls -6 aluminium delivered, using Earls compression olive fittings that give me a AN6 male fittings, for the holley regulator 3/8 npt to AN6 male, AN6 female/female coupling and AN6 compression fitting so I can hardline straight into regulator. A flexible line with be used straight out of the pump going into a Earls 30 micron filter and flexible by the transmission as I have to T piece out for a nitrous feed.
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Taylor
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« Reply #11 on: January 26, 2015, 10:28:58 am » |
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I used 5/8" lines front to rear AL -- that way I'd never have to worry about it again (in case you might want a turbo in the future) -- then used compression fittings at the end to 1/2" pipe -- So I could adjust to whatever size to the tank and to the engine I wanted --- SS is more expensive, but easier to weld if needed --
I just did some 1/2" SS hard lines around the engine and had several split when I flared them (small cracks to the eye, but they still leak big time),,, I'm thinking it was because I used a tubing cutter to cut the tubing instead of a hack saw -- FYI
What kind of stainless and what type of flare?
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kielbasa
Jr. Member
Posts: 80
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« Reply #12 on: January 26, 2015, 10:42:11 am » |
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An uses a 37 degree flare
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dont you dare tell me turbo is better then N/A
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Paul Bahnstormerz
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« Reply #13 on: January 26, 2015, 12:30:42 pm » |
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Getting a 37 degree flare in the UK was proving to be a pain, the common flaring kits are 45 degree
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richie
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« Reply #14 on: January 26, 2015, 13:39:03 pm » |
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Getting a 37 degree flare in the UK was proving to be a pain, the common flaring kits are 45 degree
I managed, will see if I can dig out the receipt and post were it was from cheers Richie
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Cars are supposed to be driven, not just talked about!!! Good parts might be expensive but good advice is priceless
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andy198712
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« Reply #15 on: January 26, 2015, 23:34:16 pm » |
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I saw on YouTube (yeah, I know) that earls I think it was do a push on conector that just pushes onto hard line and gives an AN end to it.
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Paul Bahnstormerz
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« Reply #16 on: January 26, 2015, 23:51:24 pm » |
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Those earls fittings are what I'm use, has a olive fitting and collar giving a an6 male fitting
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youngnstudly
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« Reply #17 on: January 27, 2015, 07:25:11 am » |
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This may not be helpful to your situation, but this is how I like to do the hard line install (through the tunnel). I know a lot of people don't like to run the hard line through the tunnel, but I disagree with routing the fuel line anywhere else. I like to have the line exit the front of the tunnel (near the tank) from the side so I don't have to remove the factory line. The other end of the line exits through the left side of the tunnel at the rear (through the left grommet opening). To support the middle parts of the tunnel, I use steel angle and drill it for a -AN (Earls brand) tubing sleeve, and if I can, I like to tig weld the angle to the inside of the tunnel on the passenger side. If I can't weld it, I use large head rivets to hold the bracket(s) in place. Here is the setup in my Ghia. The line passes through a fitting I welded into place: Here is the angle I used along with the tubing sleeve that is pressed into the angle, then epoxied from the back side: Andy
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There may be rocks, there may be chips, but one things for sure...I drive this bitch!
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stealth67vw
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« Reply #18 on: January 30, 2015, 03:45:53 am » |
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I used 3/8" aluminum running along the pan. I like the idea that if there was a problem the line would be easy to get at.
That is almost exactly how I ran my 3/8" hardline.
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John Bates JB Machining Services 1967 street bug 2020lbs w/driver 12.34 @ 108 mph 1/4 7.76 @ 89mph 1/8
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andy198712
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« Reply #19 on: January 30, 2015, 14:00:30 pm » |
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Those earls fittings are what I'm use, has a olive fitting and collar giving a an6 male fitting
Not a compression fitting, you literally push it on your hard line and it clamps on. Like push fit heating pipes in your house these days... I'll have to find a link
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Beastofabug
Jr. Member
Posts: 63
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« Reply #20 on: January 30, 2015, 20:26:17 pm » |
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i'm planning to use these
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danny gabbard
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« Reply #21 on: January 30, 2015, 23:09:41 pm » |
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Ace stainless supply has the tubeing , Santa ana CA 714 540 1679 and mc mastercarr company use to carry it also . I think aircraft spruce in corona CA has the flareing tools
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A poor craftsman, Blame's it on poor tools. GAB-FAB shop # 775 246-3069
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kielbasa
Jr. Member
Posts: 80
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« Reply #22 on: January 30, 2015, 23:19:41 pm » |
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I used those compression fittings with the ferrule. They seemed to work fine never had an issue. I also bought the 3/8 tubing from McMaster car. We deal with them alot for my line of work.
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dont you dare tell me turbo is better then N/A
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Beastofabug
Jr. Member
Posts: 63
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« Reply #23 on: January 30, 2015, 23:26:11 pm » |
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just ordered Krontec hardline tube aluminium 10mm od from demon tweeks
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gkeeton@zbzoom.net
Jr. Member
Posts: 79
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« Reply #24 on: February 06, 2015, 01:42:19 am » |
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I guess the OP has already ordered some Aluminum line, but to anyone else thinking about a new line, the new Nickle Copper lines that are now out as replacement brake lines also work great for fuel lines. It is super easy to bend with the Copper in the alloy. I just did replacements of 3/8's, and 5/16's on a Chevy Venture Minivan, and they were easy to route, had compression fittings to connect the metal to the plastic fuel rail lines, and the NiCopp line is DOT legal in PA for use as fuel line.
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Paul Bahnstormerz
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« Reply #25 on: February 07, 2015, 11:45:04 am » |
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i'm planning to use these That's the fittings I'm using, then various AN6 fittings, throughout, only issue I'm having is going from an6 to 8mm hose tails for the nitrous take off. I've changed the carb fittings for AN6 too, so bloody expensive all those pretty blue bits 😳
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Beastofabug
Jr. Member
Posts: 63
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« Reply #26 on: February 07, 2015, 16:49:16 pm » |
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With an fitting I buy them I won't even look at the receipts if I ever added them up I'd probably have a heart attack but their so nice and shiny Mmmm carb fittings haven't done them yet head breathers are next
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