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Author Topic: let's talk about those......  (Read 65243 times)
Nico86
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Posts: 6354


Turnip engine.


« Reply #180 on: August 30, 2012, 14:38:36 pm »

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Nico86
Hero Member
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Posts: 6354


Turnip engine.


« Reply #181 on: August 30, 2012, 14:39:14 pm »


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Nico86
Hero Member
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Posts: 6354


Turnip engine.


« Reply #182 on: August 30, 2012, 14:40:46 pm »

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andy198712
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Posts: 1063



« Reply #183 on: August 30, 2012, 14:58:21 pm »

Seems like the Rossi lights were pretty popular back then
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hotrodsurplus
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Posts: 566


It's not how fast you go; it's how you go fast.


« Reply #184 on: September 05, 2012, 16:02:07 pm »

Seems like the Rossi lights were pretty popular back then

Good god they were EVERYWHERE. People swapped early fenders on late cars just so they could run Rossi lights.

Thankfully the steel ones rusted and the plastic ones broke.

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Chris Shelton. Professional liar.
A.Tulli
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Posts: 3



« Reply #185 on: October 12, 2012, 21:13:36 pm »

Seems like the Rossi lights were pretty popular back then

Good god they were EVERYWHERE. People swapped early fenders on late cars just so they could run Rossi lights.

Thankfully the steel ones rusted and the plastic ones broke.



some survived Cheesy
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Fiatdude
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Posts: 1823



« Reply #186 on: October 12, 2012, 23:26:38 pm »

I must be old because I like my Rossi's -- I've still got a couple of pairs in the garage
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andy198712
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« Reply #187 on: October 13, 2012, 08:35:00 am »

how do you get them to work as the indicators then? as the lower light on mine is a clear lense and bulb, and when hooked up to the indicator flashes too fast and changes with engine rpm.... think it needs to be a 21w bulb but do they make them in in orange that will fit?

 cheers Smiley
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A.Tulli
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Posts: 3



« Reply #188 on: October 13, 2012, 11:04:32 am »

how do you get them to work as the indicators then? as the lower light on mine is a clear lense and bulb, and when hooked up to the indicator flashes too fast and changes with engine rpm.... think it needs to be a 21w bulb but do they make them in in orange that will fit?

 cheers Smiley

Hi Andy
I use the buttom light as an aditional sidelamp separated switchable
As  indcater the tunneld Mini Cooper Indicaters are in Germany needed because our "TÜV"

I think with a 21W lamp it should work
greetings
Andreas
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andy198712
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Posts: 1063



« Reply #189 on: October 13, 2012, 13:18:45 pm »

how do you get them to work as the indicators then? as the lower light on mine is a clear lense and bulb, and when hooked up to the indicator flashes too fast and changes with engine rpm.... think it needs to be a 21w bulb but do they make them in in orange that will fit?

 cheers Smiley

Hi Andy
I use the buttom light as an aditional sidelamp separated switchable
As  indcater the tunneld Mini Cooper Indicaters are in Germany needed because our "TÜV"

I think with a 21W lamp it should work
greetings
Andreas

thanks Smiley

its just finding a 21w bulb that will fit in that holder.....
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hotrodsurplus
Hero Member
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Posts: 566


It's not how fast you go; it's how you go fast.


« Reply #190 on: October 13, 2012, 15:31:42 pm »

how do you get them to work as the indicators then? as the lower light on mine is a clear lense and bulb, and when hooked up to the indicator flashes too fast and changes with engine rpm.... think it needs to be a 21w bulb but do they make them in in orange that will fit?

 cheers Smiley

Flasher modules have a warning feature that causes them to flash quickly if the resistance gets too high in a circuit--AKA when a bulb burns out. The lesser-wattage bulb that you tried to use is fooling the flasher module into thinking that a bulb is burned out in the circuit. An 8-watt bulb, for example, imposes an 18-ohm resistance on a 12V circuit whereas a 21-watt bulb imposes a 6.85-ohm resistance.

There are at least three remedies:

1) Don't know why you'd want an orange light on the front of a car but if the bulb with the wattage that you need exists only in clear then buy some and spray them translucent orange. The paint won't burn off.

2) Wire a resistor from each side of the turn-signal circuit to ground to simulate the bulb load. The ricers have to do that when they convert to their dim LEDs that they so love. These resistors are universal and you can get them at most good electronic suppliers for cheap but here's a site that somewhat explains how they work. http://store.ijdmtoy.com/50W-Load-Resistor-Blinkers-License-Plate-Light-Fix-p/led_load_resistor.htm You basically wire them as if they were another bulb in the circuit. It's a parallel connection and it decreases the resistance and tricks a conventional flasher module to think all's well in the system.

3) Get an electronic turn-signal module made for LED lamps. http://www.v-leds.com/Electronic-Flashers/3-PIN-EUROPEAN-ELECTRONIC-p4481116.html
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Chris Shelton. Professional liar.
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