Driver engine suggestions

[Bruce]

There is no point in pushing the lifespan especially when new P/Cs and heads are so cheap now.

It's not about the cost of the parts.  A driver will get lots of use.  Do you want to have to rebuild the engine every 3-4 years?  I don't.

[Martin S.]

Have you seen any examples of a properly built street engine with 94 pistons wearing out prematurely? It seems that the top end of bug motors last around 50,000 miles and the bottom ends last about double that.

[Bruce]

Alright, let's hear from all those guys who have run a 94 bore engine for more than 50k miles. 
A re-ring job half way doesn't count.

[Zach Gomulka]

My buddy (jdub on here) most definitely had over 50k on his 1915, I'm not positive if it was ever re-ringed but I doubt it. It was together for 18 years I think?

IMO, guys that are building for mileage/longevity are the exception to the rule in this hobby, or at least on this forum. I know I would get ansy for upgrades with any performance engine well before 50k happened

[leec]

My buddy (jdub on here) most definitely had over 50k on his 1915, I'm not positive if it was ever re-ringed but I doubt it. It was together for 18 years I think?

IMO, guys that are building for mileage/longevity are the exception to the rule in this hobby, or at least on this forum. I know I would get ansy for upgrades with any performance engine well before 50k happened

Exactly,
With my motors annual mileage 50k miles would take me 150 years anyway

[Martin S.]

I've found loose head studs on ALL my motors as well after being driven for at least 10 years.

[Bruce]

I've found loose head studs on ALL my motors as well after being driven for at least 10 years.

With 94mm bore.

Still waiting to hear from all the guys who ran 94s for more than 50k miles.  80k km in Europe.

[Martin S.]

I mean all my motors, even the stock motor I just rebuilt the top end on. The motor was in perfect condition after a few decades of use in my all original 71 Bus, as I drove it every year and I've owned it since the late 90's. There was even no blow by at the head, but a couple of the head stud nuts were loose. Rebuilding the top end of any bug motor every 50,000 miles or 10 years to me is a must. Life is too short to be driving around with a motor that has loose heads or worn pistons or worn rings and it's really easy to deal with and lets you change up your CR or chambers, or valves, or porting, etc., etc.

[Bruce]

I mean all my motors, even the stock motor I just rebuilt the top end on.

Sorry, but if all your engines have the heads falling off after only 50k miles, you're doing something wrong.  It's unreasonable to expect only 50k miles from a stock engine.

[Martin S.]

My 71 van is all original (65,000 miles now) and I know the engine was replaced when it was still new with a VW of Canada rebuild which was built at their rebuilding facility in Scarborough, ON. I was surprised what beautiful condition the motor is still in and really it did not need rebuilding but I replaced the heads and P/C's anyway since I had bought them. Other than a slight little oil drip from the oi pump cover which I resealed, the engine overall could have kept going EXCEPT it had a couple loose head stud nuts. It's something that you have to experience first hand to believe, but I'm convinced these engines need attention after 10 years of driving regardless of who built it, what size P/Cs you use, what compression you run, and you will be rewarded with a quieter, smoother running vehicle. I recommend doing it Bruce, you won't be sorry!

[bugnut68]

Isn't 50K generally considered the typical mark for burned exhaust valves on a stock engine?

[Bruce]

I'm convinced these engines need attention after 10 years of driving regardless of who built it, what size P/Cs you use, what compression you run, and you will be rewarded with a quieter, smoother running vehicle. I recommend doing it Bruce, you won't be sorry!

I know I would be sorry.  Sorry for wasting my time taking apart a perfectly good running engine.

Here's my current engine:
Built 15 years ago.
97k miles on it.
I checked the head nuts last fall, every one was tight.
The valve train is so stable, the lash never changes.
Last year's smog test burned very clean considering the extra tight specs my particular year has to meet.  This proves the cylinder and valve sealing are excellent.


The way you treat your engines makes no sense.  You take apart a perfectly good running engine, then throw away the heads and P&Cs.  Why not just leave them on the engine and keep running it?

[Martin S.]

When I started taking my cars to my friend Steve to get work done, he noticed the loose heads on one car (he could hear it), and then started checking the other ones and came up with this common problem. If he hadn't noticed, I probably would have kept driving like everyone else. With my wife's bug going from a low CR/worn out pistons going to a high CR/fresh top end with tight deck/flame port was a transformation for that car to something more modern with more power. With my 71 Bus, we are soon going on a two week road trip to Halifax from Toronto so it was perfect timing to freshen up the otherwise ok running engine. I didn't throw away the original P/Cs and heads from the Bus, but driving with those old heads from so long ago makes me nervous. At what point are you going to rebuild your engine Bruce? Wait until the compression tester shows a drop in one cylinder or you hear a noise? That's very impressive getting 97,000 miles like you did. As Gene B. would say, 'great value!'

[Rocket Ron]

Thank you for all the input but I'm sorry if I led some people down the wrong tack. Been a little busy to get back on the forum lately so haven't had the time to respond as I should have 

My intentions for this engine would be something I can jump into and drive 150 miles without having to worry if it gets there or not. Most journeys  would be in the 40 mile one way type. Average annual Mileage would be something in the region of  3000 miles if I'm lucky and have around 100 hp 130 hp or so. Intentions are to have More of a gt car which I think has been covered on another thread on here.

50 k plus miles is not a issue but current thinking is k8 with reasonable amount of compression and the parts as listed before. I think maybe the gearbox I currently have for the car should be swapped for some suited to a street car.

Still thinking if I should go 1914 or 1776 as still got to find some Pistons for the 94 mm barrels I have or just buy a complete barrel and piston kit.

Again thanks for the input

Regards. Ron

[Torben Alstrup]

Ron. You need to decide whether you want a driver or a weekend warrior.

An fk8 in a 1914 will give you weekend warrior behaviure.

With those heads and valve combo you - need - to have a relatively large exhaust system, or the engine will get a tendency to run warmer. If you want the 1914 to pull the transmission with ease I would go lower lift and split duration or at least split lift. I´m thinking Web 109/110 on 108 LC advanced 2 degrees. Even that will be on the high side. Maybe a Web 110 with 1200 1-1 rockers on the exhaust, so it doesnt bleed off all the DCR at lower rpms.

T

[RIP356]

I dont want to start a new thread but I have managed to get these parts?
Thoughts please
78 DRP crank
94 pistons
CB 044 cnc round port heads with 40mm intakes
Dell 45's
C45 cam
1.1 rockers
Light flywheel

Will it be OK?
Thanks

I will get the 1.25 rockers but what size exhaust would people recommend?
As ai have nearly finished the body and am about to start haveing the engine put together
Thanks
Dave