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Author Topic: Remote Oil cooler question  (Read 7033 times)
RobtheManx
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« on: January 05, 2016, 22:47:39 pm »

Hi everyone .

I'm still a way off fitting my engine in my 67 , but need a bit of advise .

I am running a stock dog house oil cooler , remote filter , and planning to run a remote cooler too .

I'm guessing I need to fit an oil thermostat to control the flow to the cooler , what type do people use ? The MOCAL type ? or I have seen some that are a sandwich plate between the filter and adaptor , are they any good ?

And where to mount it ? I was thinking above the trans , to one side .

As always , all advise greatfully received .

Rob
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Martin S.
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« Reply #1 on: January 06, 2016, 00:18:58 am »

I didn't bother as my engine runs so bloody hot there is no point. It's hot because of the under decklid turbo. You could try it without and then add one later. I like to keep things simple and a thermostat is one more part to break. Here's a pic of a small Setrab (single) from Aircooled.net. It's getting a lot of airflow in this spot and looks like it could get damaged but so far there has been no problems. When I stop after driving on the highway, the back of the lower part of the fender is very warm to the touch indicating the amount of heat coming off the oil cooler! I am thinking of adding a second one in the same location under the right fender with a hose going from one cooler over to the other and then back to the block.
« Last Edit: January 06, 2016, 04:07:07 am by Martin S. » Logged

Cal Look white 68 Bug with AJ Sims EFI Turbo 2332. 194hp 240tq @ 5500 rpm 3psi boost.
Zach Gomulka
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« Reply #2 on: January 06, 2016, 01:13:17 am »

Mocal sandwich adapter with integral thermostat. Keeps things tidy. Best place for airflow is horizontally in that corner where the frame horn and torsion housing meet.

But I agree, add it later if need be.
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Jesse/DVK
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« Reply #3 on: January 06, 2016, 04:23:31 am »

I used a racimex sandwich adapter. As Zach said it keeps it tidy and worked perfect.

For my new '67 build I will not use an oil cooler in the fanhousing but only a remote oil cooler hanging of the torsion housing.
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RobtheManx
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« Reply #4 on: January 06, 2016, 20:26:12 pm »

Why won't you use the stock cooler ? danger of popping ?

Cheers , Rob

I used a racimex sandwich adapter. As Zach said it keeps it tidy and worked perfect.

For my new '67 build I will not use an oil cooler in the fanhousing but only a remote oil cooler hanging of the torsion housing.
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RobtheManx
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« Reply #5 on: January 06, 2016, 20:29:25 pm »

Thanks for the replies , I wasn't planning to run a oil temp guage , But maybe I should .

I have a Berg dipstich temp sender , are they any good ?

Cheers , Rob
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RobtheManx
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« Reply #6 on: January 06, 2016, 20:31:58 pm »

Thanks Zach , so you mean mounted to the chassis , rather than the body right ?

Cheers , Rob

Mocal sandwich adapter with integral thermostat. Keeps things tidy. Best place for airflow is horizontally in that corner where the frame horn and torsion housing meet.

But I agree, add it later if need be.
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Zach Gomulka
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« Reply #7 on: January 06, 2016, 20:37:27 pm »

Thanks Zach , so you mean mounted to the chassis , rather than the body right ?

Correct.

The Berg dipstick is a great simple design, although I prefer the shorty that you install in the sump instead of the actual dipstick. Keeps the engine bay neater and your stock dipstick functional.
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Jesse/DVK
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« Reply #8 on: January 07, 2016, 01:40:06 am »

Why won't you use the stock cooler ? danger of popping ?

Cheers , Rob

I used a racimex sandwich adapter. As Zach said it keeps it tidy and worked perfect.

For my new '67 build I will not use an oil cooler in the fanhousing but only a remote oil cooler hanging of the torsion housing.

I will use a stock 30hp fanhousing and then put a doghouse fan in it (make it fit). More air over the heads and cilinders and (little) less radient heat in the fanhousing. I will then fit a large enough remote oil cooler to keep the oil temps where I want them to be.

Also easier access when wrenching because you can take the fanhousing off easy.

Just search this forum. I believe Trond also run without and my friends 67 250 hp has the same setup. Hans on the lounge.
« Last Edit: January 07, 2016, 03:51:34 am by Jesse/DVK » Logged

Der Vollgas Kreuzers
dth
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« Reply #9 on: January 07, 2016, 08:56:50 am »

I run with out a stock cooler in my 67 , runs fine on the street , long journeys etc and as Jesse
said easier to work on it , remove shroud etc. Got a large fan assisted cooler sitting in the space
to the left of the gearbox/torsion housing. Smiley
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RobtheManx
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« Reply #10 on: January 07, 2016, 10:04:51 am »

I think I'll stick with the stock cooler for now , as I spent ages making my tinware fit well , and have had it all powder coated too . But i really like the idea of being able to remove the fan housing whilst the engine is in , so maybe in the future ...

I was worried about fitting the cooler under the parcel shelf and getting in the way of the axles , but fitting it to the torsion housing is a much better idea . And it means I can fit it before the body goes on .

And I'll go with a Mocal sandwich plate .

Thanks for the advise fellas

Rob
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Jim Ratto
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« Reply #11 on: January 07, 2016, 18:05:35 pm »

I think I'll stick with the stock cooler for now , as I spent ages making my tinware fit well , and have had it all powder coated too . But i really like the idea of being able to remove the fan housing whilst the engine is in , so maybe in the future ...

I was worried about fitting the cooler under the parcel shelf and getting in the way of the axles , but fitting it to the torsion housing is a much better idea . And it means I can fit it before the body goes on .

And I'll go with a Mocal sandwich plate .

Thanks for the advise fellas

Rob

You might look at Setrab twin fan pack oil cooler setup. I've run one on my '67 since 1997, to LH of trans, longitudinally, hung from body down about 2.5", above axle. Fans pull air down through it, fed cold(er) air from air duct under RH torsion tube, routed through Volvo flexible air hoses. Fans powered up by switch on dash/40amp relay under rear seat. I only turn fans on in the warmest of temps here in Southern CA.
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RobtheManx
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« Reply #12 on: December 22, 2016, 13:44:07 pm »

OK , old thread !

I decided to run a remote cooler only . I had one sitting around , but its pretty big , too big to fit in the space beside the trans . I would like to hang it from the torsion housing . what cooler should I go for ?

Cheers , Rob
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andy198712
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« Reply #13 on: December 22, 2016, 16:19:00 pm »

i run a setrab cooler only, and with no fan yet, its not the hot un the UK, its on a 2110 with 911 cooling in a beetle mostly daily driven and doesn't overheat.

i also run the local thermo sandwich plate with seems cheaply made?! but functions fine.

mine sits by the torsion bar housing, i mounted it with rubber mounts at a 45* angle to the ground. bolted to the slopes bit between the car floor and the parcel area, if that makes sense?


i'll add a fan in the future to play it safe.

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