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Author Topic: 69 2276 efi bug  (Read 63470 times)
baz
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« on: February 21, 2016, 17:16:18 pm »

Introducing my US model 69. I had a thread here last year on the predecessor to this bug which was a very clean and og 77 bug. I had been collecting parts to build a 2276 with the intention of fitting it in the 77. However I always had the nagging voice in my mind telling me the 77 was the wrong car and was more suited to a low resto cal style.



I had been watching the classifieds on all the usual sites for a 68-70 bug more suited to the look I wanted. This 69 came up on thesamba and it ticked a lot of boxes for me, the year was right, the colour was right, the car looked pretty clean and being a US model it came with IRS rear as a bonus.
After a few emails and lots of pictures and a couple of videos from the seller i decided to take a chance and buy it.
This is the day it arrived.






The engine it came with was a good 1600 twin port with kadrons so I managed to sell it to recoup some of the expenses of buying and shipping. I managed to sell the 77 quickly too to free up space for the 69.



Empty bay soon to be sporting a new 2276



And the longblock that had been living in my living room for a year now.



Spec is

Auto linea case
DPR 82mm crank and lightened flywheel
CB 5.4 race rods
Mahle 94mm barrels and pistons
Jeff Denham hot street spec heads 42 and 37mm valves
JPM Raptor cam and lifters 00808
CB 1.4 rockers
Aluminium pushrods and matching springs
Vwspeedshop EFI and crank trigger ignition
Vwspeedshop stainless hideaway exhaust

I took the bug to judgie at RNJ to do a few jobs like fuel lines, fitting mid mount and torque bar. Its finally almost ready and we are booked in next saturday for a half day dyno session. I'm equal amounts excited and nervous,  its been a long time coming together and at times i forget i even own a bug. Hopefully nothing goes wrong and I can get to drive my first hot vw in less than a week now.  Grin


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vwhelmot
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« Reply #1 on: February 22, 2016, 09:58:41 am »

Cool Sleeper?
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baz
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« Reply #2 on: February 22, 2016, 10:43:49 am »

Cool Sleeper?

Good call. I have alloys and big and little tires going on it for now,  but could end up back like the first pic someday.
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vwhelmot
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« Reply #3 on: February 22, 2016, 11:22:40 am »

I would love to build a hot street sleeper. Proper fun
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jamiep_jamiep
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« Reply #4 on: February 22, 2016, 12:29:00 pm »

Nice, I really like the way late bugs drive too, miss mine.
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Dalland
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Posts: 60


« Reply #5 on: February 22, 2016, 12:59:32 pm »

Had the same raptor 808 cam in my 2275 with 42/37.5 valves and 45 drla.
Had some ignition problem over 5800 rpm so didn't get any good runs but made 255nm at around 4000 rpm and 200 nm at 2000rpm.
Great driving engine!!
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baz
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Posts: 772



« Reply #6 on: February 22, 2016, 14:03:38 pm »

Had the same raptor 808 cam in my 2275 with 42/37.5 valves and 45 drla.
Had some ignition problem over 5800 rpm so didn't get any good runs but made 255nm at around 4000 rpm and 200 nm at 2000rpm.
Great driving engine!!

Thats great,  its hard to find feedback for this cam so its good to hear from someone who used one in a very similar engine.

I'll be delighted if mine hits those figures, its 99.9% street car and good driveability is no 1 priority
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baz
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Posts: 772



« Reply #7 on: February 22, 2016, 14:21:21 pm »

Nice, I really like the way late bugs drive too, miss mine.

Cheers. Yes ball joint front irs rear bugs do drive very well. Had one as a daily years ago but it was bog stock 1500. This one should be much more fun Smiley
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Nico86
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Turnip engine.


« Reply #8 on: February 22, 2016, 19:52:17 pm »

Nice project!
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baz
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« Reply #9 on: February 22, 2016, 20:29:28 pm »

Nice project!

Thanks Nico, hopefully worthy of a place in the late lookers thread soon Wink
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Nico86
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Turnip engine.


« Reply #10 on: February 23, 2016, 12:44:12 pm »

It's looking promising!
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Dalland
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Posts: 60


« Reply #11 on: February 23, 2016, 12:59:49 pm »

Had the same raptor 808 cam in my 2275 with 42/37.5 valves and 45 drla.
Had some ignition problem over 5800 rpm so didn't get any good runs but made 255nm at around 4000 rpm and 200 nm at 2000rpm.
Great driving engine!!

Thats great,  its hard to find feedback for this cam so its good to hear from someone who used one in a very similar engine.

I'll be delighted if mine hits those figures, its 99.9% street car and good driveability is no 1 priority


Yeah it was a blast to drive after coming from an FK8 before. But sadly the cam went bad after just 3000 km, fk8 ran 23 000 km.
This time its a new raptor with more duration but TP 56 grams lifters and alu pushrods.
That should be said, the lifters that come with the raptor is some heavy shit... Shocked

Best of luck on your project! Wink
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baz
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« Reply #12 on: February 23, 2016, 13:59:30 pm »

Had the same raptor 808 cam in my 2275 with 42/37.5 valves and 45 drla.
Had some ignition problem over 5800 rpm so didn't get any good runs but made 255nm at around 4000 rpm and 200 nm at 2000rpm.
Great driving engine!!

Thats great,  its hard to find feedback for this cam so its good to hear from someone who used one in a very similar engine.

I'll be delighted if mine hits those figures, its 99.9% street car and good driveability is no 1 priority


Yeah it was a blast to drive after coming from an FK8 before. But sadly the cam went bad after just 3000 km, fk8 ran 23 000 km.
This time its a new raptor with more duration but TP 56 grams lifters and alu pushrods.
That should be said, the lifters that come with the raptor is some heavy shit... Shocked

Best of luck on your project! Wink

Sorry to hear yours went bad so soon! 

Thanks for the comparison to the fk8 as when I was deciding on cam it was nearly gonna be fk8 or web 86b. Chose the raptor at last minute after reading lots of positives about johannes work.

Hope mine lasts longer than 3k!  Though if it goes bad I'll use it as an excuse to fit lighter lifters Smiley
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baz
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Posts: 772



« Reply #13 on: March 05, 2016, 17:19:02 pm »

Got the car on the dyno a week later than planned,  circumstances beyond anyones control lead to the week delay.



Mixed results is best way to describe the outcome, mapping was taking a while but motor was sounding sweet, very snappy and smooth, mapping rpm increases of 250-300 at a time and was showing 140lbs of torque at the hubs from 2k to 5.5k rpm. Got to 6k and a likely spun rear main stopped play.  Little bit gutted at the time but I've had a few hours to get over it and looking forward to getting it back to finish the mapping.

On the bright side I love how it looks, first time I've seen it on the wheels. Rear needs raising a spline to be perfect.





Engine getting stripped and fixed hopefully in next few weeks
« Last Edit: March 05, 2016, 17:29:05 pm by baz » Logged

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baz
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Posts: 772



« Reply #14 on: March 05, 2016, 17:42:01 pm »

Been informed the engine is now turning again by hand now it has cooled down. Any suggestions to what caused it to lock up?
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Nico86
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Turnip engine.


« Reply #15 on: March 07, 2016, 12:16:34 pm »

Car is looking great, I hope you find out what happened with your engine soon!
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baz
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« Reply #16 on: March 07, 2016, 18:02:12 pm »

Thanks nico  Grin found out today it was oil starvation caused number 2 rod to stick on the crank. No lasting damage luckily apaet from a crank regrind and some new bearings.
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Nico86
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Turnip engine.


« Reply #17 on: March 07, 2016, 19:53:29 pm »

Glad to hear there are not huge damages, you'll be able to have it running again soon! Cool
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Chubbygreen
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« Reply #18 on: March 08, 2016, 19:45:05 pm »

tyre sizes you running on those gas burners, nice bug long axle?
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baz
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« Reply #19 on: March 08, 2016, 19:57:59 pm »

Tires are 165/65 and 205/70 toyos. Stock width beam standard height spindles. Rear is irs with 10mm spacers behind the wheels. Irs is same length as long axle afaik
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baz
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« Reply #20 on: March 30, 2016, 20:47:46 pm »

Well 3 weeks later and no progress made on getting this back together, waiting on a crank grinder before anything can move on.

After thinking about it for the last few weeks I've decided that I'm going to rebuild the engine myself,  it'll be my first complete engine build so I'll be asking for a lot of help and guidance from the good people on here.

I'm going to collect all the parts tomorrow and make a start on getting it all cleaned up over the weekend.



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Lukej
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« Reply #21 on: March 31, 2016, 21:36:36 pm »

There's a reason number 2 rod bearing got starved of oil though... You need to get to the bottom of that Smiley
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baz
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Posts: 772



« Reply #22 on: March 31, 2016, 22:00:22 pm »

Yeah could be too late to ever know for sure now. I will blueprint everything this time though so it won't happen again
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baz
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« Reply #23 on: April 17, 2016, 19:29:29 pm »

Well today I finally got some time in the garage and I wanted to start learning how to use the new internal and external micrometer sets that I bought.  The important 50-75mm mike is junk as one end isn't set square in the body so I can't get a reliable reading when I try to use it to set up the internal mike.  It'll go back to the supplier tomorrow.

I didn't get too hung up on this as my crank isnt here yet so I cant use it to measure for radial clearance in the mains. I wanted to try check the main bearings for round so I just set the internal mike close to what I needed then used the no1 bearing to zero the dial gauge.

Took a while to get consistent readings but I think I'm there now. I'm a little concerned about no2 bearing as the reading along the split is a good bit bigger than the other 3 readings I'm taking. Around  .08mm bigger. The split in the shell doesn't appear to be perfect in line with the split in the crankcase.

Hard to see in the pic but the split at the bottom looks off, I've been trying to figure out whether sanding the end of that shell a little will reduce or increase the reading on that axis? Or is it not advisable to take a measurement close to that axis on a split bearing? Any advice greatly appreciated.



« Last Edit: April 17, 2016, 19:45:00 pm by baz » Logged

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baz
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« Reply #24 on: April 21, 2016, 20:46:36 pm »

So more of my engine components came home today.

Brand new when fitted berg gland nut and washer. Washer was on back to front, gland nut looks like it was tightened with an impact gun.







Race spacer damaged from woodruff key



Evidence of being hammered down with a drift



Crank shows galling from cam gear being hammered on the same way.

My rocker shims



Piss poor work. On the brightside lesson learned,  no cowboys will get near my stuff again
« Last Edit: April 21, 2016, 20:49:41 pm by baz » Logged

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andy198712
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« Reply #25 on: April 21, 2016, 23:30:30 pm »

That last picture......... Wow
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baz
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« Reply #26 on: April 22, 2016, 00:04:06 am »

That last picture......... Wow

.

« Last Edit: June 01, 2016, 21:57:59 pm by baz » Logged

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alex d
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« Reply #27 on: April 22, 2016, 13:15:42 pm »

This is insane  Shocked
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baz
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« Reply #28 on: April 22, 2016, 13:54:30 pm »

An £8k engine with parts made from an old paint can???  Roll Eyes
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spoolin70
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« Reply #29 on: April 22, 2016, 13:57:09 pm »

I'm looking at your pictures on my phone and the screen isn't great but is that paper/cardboard that was used for the shims  Huh

Edit. You answered my question while I was typing - PAINT CAN  Shocked
« Last Edit: April 22, 2016, 13:59:27 pm by spoolin70 » Logged
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