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Author Topic: Shut Lines  (Read 3113 times)
Jim Ratto
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Posts: 7121



« on: June 24, 2016, 23:47:21 pm »

Something I've been absolutely useless at, always have the best intentions to "get them closer" but somehow always make em worse.
My driver's door is the main problem and has been for a long time. When I've installed new weatherseals, it's worse. But never been even close to "good." I envy all the cars that just "click shut" with the lightest touch and close nicely.
So many cars seem to have such nice, aligned, tight shut lines. I want to be like that too.

Any hints?

Thanks
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56BLITZ
DKK
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Posts: 271



« Reply #1 on: June 25, 2016, 00:20:22 am »

I think it is best to adjust the door gaps while the striker and weather strip are removed.
Then, install and adjust the striker BEFORE installing the weather strip.
New weather strip will probably need to "settle-in" for a time with the door closed before your door shuts really nicely.
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Jesucristo es mi Señor y Salvador!
nicolas
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Posts: 3996



« Reply #2 on: June 25, 2016, 08:21:58 am »

i wish i could help  Roll Eyes
it is one of the bugs i want to get out of the car. i fiddled with the plates just two weeks ago, no success. see what comes up here.
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Neil Davies
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Posts: 3437



« Reply #3 on: June 25, 2016, 09:25:00 am »

Most people work on the shut lines with the doors empty during a restoration. As soon as the windows, winders, panels and so on are added the door sags. I tend to bolt the door up loose then place the parts in before adjusting. Once it's painted its a bit trickier but just takes time and sometimes shims behind the hinges!
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2007cc, 48IDFs, street car. 14.45@93 on pump fuel, treads, muffler and fanbelt. October 2017!
vwhelmot
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Posts: 687


« Reply #4 on: June 25, 2016, 10:49:22 am »

Shut lines can be adjusted by removing the front and rear body shock pads then after the lines are good , make up some thinner/thicker pads to suit. Shut lines are one of the first things I look at on a show car. Its one of those things that are difficult to get right, swage line, door bottom, gaps, all these factors are not easy to get to look sharp and in line. Lets be honest, its a mass produced car, gaps were not always 100% right from the factory.  
  Been working on mine, and I know after its painted it will take a lot more work to get right. You are right that new door seals will affect, they do take time to bed in. These pics were taken with the old but still good door seals, striker and locks in place.





« Last Edit: June 25, 2016, 10:57:06 am by vwhelmot » Logged
70slooker
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Posts: 116


hello


« Reply #5 on: June 25, 2016, 14:52:15 pm »

Front and rear body mounts play a part in the alignment as well, bolt the body onto the pan before you think your aces! (For those doing body off, of course)
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Zündfolge Car Club
Paul Bahnstormerz
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Posts: 237



« Reply #6 on: June 26, 2016, 10:58:49 am »

Resto shop that did my car just plastic spacers to set it all up, then said "do not remove those bloody doors" they hated fitting them !!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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andy198712
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Posts: 1063



« Reply #7 on: June 27, 2016, 08:09:15 am »

How do the front and rear mount effect it? Does a smaller rear give move gap at the top ect or?
Mine aren't great!
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modnrod
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Posts: 795


Old School Volksies


« Reply #8 on: June 27, 2016, 12:26:48 pm »

http://www.hotvws.com/content.php?contentID=73

Thanks Dean!
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