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Author Topic: Hydraulic clutch setup  (Read 14526 times)
Erlend / bug66
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« on: June 29, 2016, 11:11:04 am »

I've seen this a few times lately, and can't really understand why it's like this.

Why would 2 seemingly equal hydraulic clutch setups have different pedal feel?


I've got:

Stage 4, thick Black Magic. 5/8" master and 7/8" slave cylinder. AN3 lines, line lock and restrictor valve for clutch management.

Pedal is fairly heavy (became better after driving it some)


Other have the same-ish setup, but pedal is so much lighter.

I don't mind a longer throw on the pedal, if that gives me a softer pedal.


Smaller master or bigger slave? AN3 or AN4?
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richie
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« Reply #1 on: June 29, 2016, 11:27:34 am »

I was thinking this would make a good tech topic and maybe even a sticky if enough info is added with CM included



Length of clutch arm on gearbox makes huge difference, I have been making longer arms for mendys & bus boxes myself. Its not always possible to fit longest arm on stock bodied car as it interferes with boot floor area



I use 1 3/4 master cylinder and cnc 7/8 slave cylinder, steel 4.75mm[ 3/16th? ] front to back, then -3 flexi from chassis/pan to slave, I hated way 1 5/8 master felt when I tried it.

Also I am sure people are using different valves for CM, and the push through flow will be different on them so add to different feel as well

Finally have you shimmed clutch cover at all? that makes difference to how it acts and feels as well

cheers Richie
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Erlend / bug66
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« Reply #2 on: June 29, 2016, 11:51:33 am »

I tried the stock length Type 1 arm, but needed to shorten it, to get enough throw, to release the clutch.

Shortened about 1/2". 
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Berger
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« Reply #3 on: June 29, 2016, 11:55:32 am »

A T25 has a hydraulic clutch that feels very "normal". Would be nice to know the exact spec on parts from those if anyone have?
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Erlend / bug66
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« Reply #4 on: June 29, 2016, 11:59:52 am »

A T25 has a hydraulic clutch that feels very "normal". Would be nice to know the exact spec on parts from those if anyone have?

Sure does not have a Stage 4.. Cheesy
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Berger
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« Reply #5 on: June 29, 2016, 12:10:36 pm »

A T25 has a hydraulic clutch that feels very "normal". Would be nice to know the exact spec on parts from those if anyone have?

Sure does not have a Stage 4.. Cheesy

No, but was thinking more about travle, flow and ratio. My guess is it would handle stage 4 pretty well Wink
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dragvw2180
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« Reply #6 on: June 29, 2016, 14:08:51 pm »

 My setup is almost exactly the same as Richie has with the exception of my lines, I use AN- 4 PTFE lines all the way through . I do have a line lock installed in between for my delay box . Mike McCarthy
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richie
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« Reply #7 on: June 29, 2016, 14:33:34 pm »

I tried the stock length Type 1 arm, but needed to shorten it, to get enough throw, to release the clutch.

Shortened about 1/2". 

That's your problem then, no wonder its heavy, I am using 100mm arms. So did you not have enough travel at slave? was it maxed out? or was there not enough travel at pedal to move slave fully? Guessing you are using the in the tunnel kit? I don't know anything about ratios on those

cheers Richie
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pWolf
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« Reply #8 on: June 29, 2016, 15:12:07 pm »

Doesn't Kalle (beetlebug) have a nice setup ?
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Erlend / bug66
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« Reply #9 on: June 29, 2016, 15:45:38 pm »

I tried the stock length Type 1 arm, but needed to shorten it, to get enough throw, to release the clutch.

Shortened about 1/2".  

That's your problem then, no wonder its heavy, I am using 100mm arms. So did you not have enough travel at slave? was it maxed out? or was there not enough travel at pedal to move slave fully? Guessing you are using the in the tunnel kit? I don't know anything about ratios on those

cheers Richie

Yes, I understand that shortening the arm will make my left foot stronger Cheesy

I tried a 75mm arm, but when the master was fully depressed, if did not pull the slave and arm enough. The point of clutch release was with the pedal almost all the way back.

CNC kit with 5/8" master and 7/8" slave. Master with a straight link behind the pedal.

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« Last Edit: June 29, 2016, 15:48:46 pm by Erlend / bug66 » Logged

The '67:
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10.407 @ 134mph, SCC 2017
10.221 @ 135mph, SCC 2018

The '59:
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Fiatdude
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« Reply #10 on: June 29, 2016, 15:50:12 pm »


CNC kit with 5/8" master and 7/8" slave. Master with a straight link behind the pedal.

there's your problem --- Master should be in the range of twice the size of the slave to make the system behave nicely
« Last Edit: June 29, 2016, 15:53:23 pm by Fiatdude » Logged

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Erlend / bug66
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« Reply #11 on: June 29, 2016, 15:55:07 pm »


CNC kit with 5/8" master and 7/8" slave. Master with a straight link behind the pedal.

there's your problem --- Master should be in the range of twice the size of the slave to make the system behave nicely

Ok? Every thread I've read states that if the slave/arm has enough travel; the smallest MC to SC will give the lightest pedal, but needs to travel further?
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The '67:
10.626 @ 132mph, SCC 2016
10.407 @ 134mph, SCC 2017
10.221 @ 135mph, SCC 2018

The '59:
Not yet..
richie
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« Reply #12 on: June 29, 2016, 16:27:41 pm »

So maybe slave can move more?  and a bigger master would move more fluid for same pedal travel and move slave more[ I think]
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Erlend / bug66
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« Reply #13 on: June 29, 2016, 20:25:01 pm »

So maybe slave can move more?  and a bigger master would move more fluid for same pedal travel and move slave more[ I think]

I don't think it will have a a softer pedal then? Just move the arm more?
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The '67:
10.626 @ 132mph, SCC 2016
10.407 @ 134mph, SCC 2017
10.221 @ 135mph, SCC 2018

The '59:
Not yet..
richie
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« Reply #14 on: June 29, 2016, 20:51:30 pm »

So maybe slave can move more?  and a bigger master would move more fluid for same pedal travel and move slave more[ I think]

I don't think it will have a a softer pedal then? Just move the arm more?

But then you can use longer arm Smiley
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Erlend / bug66
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« Reply #15 on: June 29, 2016, 20:55:25 pm »

So maybe slave can move more?  and a bigger master would move more fluid for same pedal travel and move slave more[ I think]

I don't think it will have a a softer pedal then? Just move the arm more?

But then you can use longer arm Smiley

That's true  Smiley
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The '67:
10.626 @ 132mph, SCC 2016
10.407 @ 134mph, SCC 2017
10.221 @ 135mph, SCC 2018

The '59:
Not yet..
richie
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« Reply #16 on: June 29, 2016, 20:56:50 pm »

The other thing that occurred to me is, why the hell you are using a stage 4 and black magic, I expect to see 8s at least with that much clutch Grin  
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stussyrich
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« Reply #17 on: June 29, 2016, 21:00:17 pm »

is there enough throw on that pedal. does it activate the master fully.
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Erlend / bug66
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« Reply #18 on: June 29, 2016, 21:02:02 pm »

The other thing that occurred to me is, why the hell you are using a stage 4 and black magic, I expect to see 8s at least with that much clutch Grin  

Better to have too much clutch, and manage the clutch slip, than having too little Smiley

8s will never happen. If I break into sub 10.5s I'll be really happy Smiley And then chase a 9.99  Roll Eyes Tongue
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The '67:
10.626 @ 132mph, SCC 2016
10.407 @ 134mph, SCC 2017
10.221 @ 135mph, SCC 2018

The '59:
Not yet..
Erlend / bug66
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« Reply #19 on: June 29, 2016, 21:02:35 pm »

is there enough throw on that pedal. does it activate the master fully.

Yes, the MC bottoms out before the pedal
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The '67:
10.626 @ 132mph, SCC 2016
10.407 @ 134mph, SCC 2017
10.221 @ 135mph, SCC 2018

The '59:
Not yet..
stussyrich
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« Reply #20 on: June 29, 2016, 21:05:30 pm »

ok cool just looked like it wouldn't, maybe just the pic.

is there enough throw on that pedal. does it activate the master fully.

Yes, the MC bottoms out before the pedal

Logged

Lil Stink Hound.. 2332 IDA. 11.78 @ 112mph.

Turbo Notch.. 2332 Turbo 10.2 @ 137mph.
Erlend / bug66
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« Reply #21 on: June 29, 2016, 21:11:48 pm »

ok cool just looked like it wouldn't, maybe just the pic.

is there enough throw on that pedal. does it activate the master fully.

Yes, the MC bottoms out before the pedal


I shortened the MC pushrod, but it's bottoming nicely before the pedal hits the wall.

I'll measure how much throw the SC has and see if I can get away with a longer arm.
Logged

The '67:
10.626 @ 132mph, SCC 2016
10.407 @ 134mph, SCC 2017
10.221 @ 135mph, SCC 2018

The '59:
Not yet..
stussyrich
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« Reply #22 on: June 29, 2016, 21:19:19 pm »

I noticed with mine that if the arm wasn't perfectly centered when the pedal was depressed it would catch and seem to bottom out but it wasn't doing.

ok cool just looked like it wouldn't, maybe just the pic.

is there enough throw on that pedal. does it activate the master fully.

Yes, the MC bottoms out before the pedal


I shortened the MC pushrod, but it's bottoming nicely before the pedal hits the wall.

I'll measure how much throw the SC has and see if I can get away with a longer arm.
Logged

Lil Stink Hound.. 2332 IDA. 11.78 @ 112mph.

Turbo Notch.. 2332 Turbo 10.2 @ 137mph.
Erlend / bug66
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« Reply #23 on: June 29, 2016, 21:25:42 pm »

I noticed with mine that if the arm wasn't perfectly centered when the pedal was depressed it would catch and seem to bottom out but it wasn't doing.

ok cool just looked like it wouldn't, maybe just the pic.

is there enough throw on that pedal. does it activate the master fully.

Yes, the MC bottoms out before the pedal


I shortened the MC pushrod, but it's bottoming nicely before the pedal hits the wall.

I'll measure how much throw the SC has and see if I can get away with a longer arm.

There is no movement up or down. It's on the millimeter throw wise.  Smiley
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The '67:
10.626 @ 132mph, SCC 2016
10.407 @ 134mph, SCC 2017
10.221 @ 135mph, SCC 2018

The '59:
Not yet..
bedjo78
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« Reply #24 on: June 29, 2016, 23:33:14 pm »

How to modify clutch arm? Weld it to make it longer ?
Or is it avalaible aftermarker parts?
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Erlend / bug66
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« Reply #25 on: June 29, 2016, 23:37:06 pm »

How to modify clutch arm? Weld it to make it longer ?
Or is it avalaible aftermarker parts?

VW made 75mm and 100mm
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The '67:
10.626 @ 132mph, SCC 2016
10.407 @ 134mph, SCC 2017
10.221 @ 135mph, SCC 2018

The '59:
Not yet..
richie
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« Reply #26 on: June 30, 2016, 06:09:35 am »

How to modify clutch arm? Weld it to make it longer ?
Or is it avalaible aftermarker parts?

I get the 100mm versions and cut them off at base of arm and do same to mendy arm then weld them on, will see if I got a pic of one

cheers Richie
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Cars are supposed to be driven, not just talked about!!!   


Good parts might be expensive but good advice is priceless Wink
bedjo78
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« Reply #27 on: June 30, 2016, 14:11:57 pm »


[/quote]

I get the 100mm versions and cut them off at base of arm and do same to mendy arm then weld them on, will see if I got a pic of one

cheers Richie
[/quote]

Thanks I will make the same...
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Stripped66
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« Reply #28 on: July 11, 2016, 01:42:54 am »

...line lock and restrictor valve for clutch management.

Assuming you have comparable leverage with your pedal setup, have you inspected/measured the size of the orifice in the line-lock? Several folks (myself included) found that the orifice in our line-locks were so restrictive that the Parker valve was the path of least resistance. The Biondo line-lock solenoid was the common denominator for at least 4 of us with this problem...FWIW.
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Erlend / bug66
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« Reply #29 on: July 11, 2016, 08:05:24 am »

...line lock and restrictor valve for clutch management.

Assuming you have comparable leverage with your pedal setup, have you inspected/measured the size of the orifice in the line-lock? Several folks (myself included) found that the orifice in our line-locks were so restrictive that the Parker valve was the path of least resistance. The Biondo line-lock solenoid was the common denominator for at least 4 of us with this problem...FWIW.

I've heard the same issue. They can be bored out, but I need to bleed the clutch again, and I think I'll try to skip the management to see if the pedal is better without.
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The '67:
10.626 @ 132mph, SCC 2016
10.407 @ 134mph, SCC 2017
10.221 @ 135mph, SCC 2018

The '59:
Not yet..
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