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Author Topic: shim under or above the barrel?  (Read 14412 times)
nicolas
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« on: November 30, 2016, 19:07:37 pm »

Ok, maybe a bit of a trivial question, but i am weighing the pros and cons on a solid 1mm shim under the barrel or a copper 1mm shim on top between barrel and head.
which is better, are there benefits doing one or the other?

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Martin S.
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« Reply #1 on: December 01, 2016, 00:16:21 am »

I like having a completely flat head topping the cylinder. No step, no copper gasget, nothing with any kind of edge to start pre-ignition or detonation. It should be as sano a connection between head and cylinder as possible. No tweaking, no distortion, just a completely flat and square join between the two for best results. Put the spacer next to the case. Ideally you would have long cylinders and machine them to the exact length and have no spacers.  Wink
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Cal Look white 68 Bug with AJ Sims EFI Turbo 2332. 194hp 240tq @ 5500 rpm 3psi boost.
modnrod
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« Reply #2 on: December 01, 2016, 01:37:02 am »

Well there you go, I was just thinking of this the other day too.
 Smiley

Can I add a quick question to this too please?

Has anyone ever noticed any corrosion on the head from using a copper head gasket on a long-term street engine?
(dissimilar metals)
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richie
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« Reply #3 on: December 01, 2016, 13:32:43 pm »

Lots of variables but if its a N/A street engine with sensible stroke and rod ratio? then under barrel just as its cheaper Grin 
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nicolas
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« Reply #4 on: December 01, 2016, 17:04:23 pm »

Lots of variables but if its a N/A street engine with sensible stroke and rod ratio? then under barrel just as its cheaper Grin 

OK, it was a NA, but will be turbo, hence the slight lowering in CR. but all very modest. engine is a 2276 with porsche length rods. as for the price, i have both options available.
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richie
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« Reply #5 on: December 01, 2016, 17:41:24 pm »

Lots of variables but if its a N/A street engine with sensible stroke and rod ratio? then under barrel just as its cheaper Grin 

OK, it was a NA, but will be turbo, hence the slight lowering in CR. but all very modest. engine is a 2276 with porsche length rods. as for the price, i have both options available.

I would put copper on top then to keep as much of piston as possible in cylinder at BDC

cheers Richie
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Good parts might be expensive but good advice is priceless Wink
nicolas
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« Reply #6 on: December 01, 2016, 18:07:36 pm »

thanks.

see if i can make this work.  Grin
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Martin S.
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« Reply #7 on: December 01, 2016, 18:40:37 pm »

Lots of variables but if its a N/A street engine with sensible stroke and rod ratio? then under barrel just as its cheaper Grin 

OK, it was a NA, but will be turbo, hence the slight lowering in CR. but all very modest. engine is a 2276 with porsche length rods. as for the price, i have both options available.

From John C. : '69-82mm crankshafts can use the VW (5.394″) or Porsche (5.354″) length rod, IF it is made of Chromoly. Once you start using an 84mm crank, you are required to use a 5.5″ or longer connecting rod so you don’t overstress the rod and rod bolts! I recommend a 5.7″ or longer rod for strokes longer than 88mm.'
I agree with John on that one, and you're making a mistake using Porsche length rods. NOBODY does that in the automotive world, and most do the opposite and use as long a rod as possible.
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richie
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« Reply #8 on: December 01, 2016, 19:04:44 pm »

Lots of variables but if its a N/A street engine with sensible stroke and rod ratio? then under barrel just as its cheaper Grin 

OK, it was a NA, but will be turbo, hence the slight lowering in CR. but all very modest. engine is a 2276 with porsche length rods. as for the price, i have both options available.

From John C. : '69-82mm crankshafts can use the VW (5.394″) or Porsche (5.354″) length rod, IF it is made of Chromoly. Once you start using an 84mm crank, you are required to use a 5.5″ or longer connecting rod so you don’t overstress the rod and rod bolts! I recommend a 5.7″ or longer rod for strokes longer than 88mm.'
I agree with John on that one, and you're making a mistake using Porsche length rods. NOBODY does that in the automotive world, and most do the opposite and use as long a rod as possible.

Martin

So John C says use Porsche length rods up to 82mm stroke and you agree with him?  and this is 82mm stroke [2276] but you think its a mistake to run Porsche length rods? I am confused which it is?  Porsche length rods have been used with 82mm stroke in 1000s of engines over the years

cheers Richie
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Martin S.
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« Reply #9 on: December 01, 2016, 19:22:26 pm »

I'm agreeing with John that it can be done. And I'm agreeing with John with his last statement too. Name one engine builder in the world (besides us bug guys) who uses these short rod lengths, just one Smiley
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Cal Look white 68 Bug with AJ Sims EFI Turbo 2332. 194hp 240tq @ 5500 rpm 3psi boost.
richie
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« Reply #10 on: December 01, 2016, 19:28:23 pm »

I'm agreeing with John that it can be done. And I'm agreeing with John with his last statement too. Name one engine builder in the world (besides us bug guys) who uses these short rod lengths, just one Smiley

Nissan
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Martin S.
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« Reply #11 on: December 01, 2016, 19:38:30 pm »

What rod length/ratio do they use?
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Cal Look white 68 Bug with AJ Sims EFI Turbo 2332. 194hp 240tq @ 5500 rpm 3psi boost.
richie
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« Reply #12 on: December 01, 2016, 19:41:55 pm »

What rod length/ratio do they use?

Factory RB26 skyline 4.78inch rod  Shocked
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spoolin70
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« Reply #13 on: December 01, 2016, 19:43:51 pm »

(Stock Config "Overaquare/Short Stroke" 86mm x 73.7mm & 121.5mm):
OEM RB26DETT Configuration/Stroke.
121.5mm Rod Length & 73.7mm Stroke = 1.65:1 (1.64857530529)
30mm CH/PH Piston Used (Standard).
-----------------------------------------------------------------

I was thinking RB too  Grin
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Martin S.
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« Reply #14 on: December 01, 2016, 19:51:26 pm »

OK that's one. Everyone else uses long rods for good reason. Look at listings for rods for V8's. Stock length, or longer.
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Cal Look white 68 Bug with AJ Sims EFI Turbo 2332. 194hp 240tq @ 5500 rpm 3psi boost.
Martin S.
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« Reply #15 on: December 01, 2016, 19:59:43 pm »

Great now I'm googling this like everyone else Shocked
Here's an article where they are trying longer rods on a Nissan motor (gee I wonder why Roll Eyes...

Building the Long Rod Nissan SR20VE Engine
'We researched economical ways to do this by perusing the rod dimensions from other motors. We did not want to order custom rods for cost and timing reasons so we figured we could find a rod/bearing combo that was close and work with that. We ended up settling on the rods from a Honda H22 Prelude motor. The H22 rod is 5.630” long vs the stock SR20’s length of 5.365”. This would give a stroke to rod length ratio of 1.66:1 vs the stock 1.58:1. Not a huge difference but one that we could probably find measurable results from.'
http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticles/ID/2135/Building-the-Long-Rod-Nissan-SR20VE-Engine.aspx
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Cal Look white 68 Bug with AJ Sims EFI Turbo 2332. 194hp 240tq @ 5500 rpm 3psi boost.
richie
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« Reply #16 on: December 01, 2016, 20:10:58 pm »



Name one engine builder in the world (besides us bug guys) who uses these short rod lengths, just one Smiley

 Grin




OK that's one. Everyone else uses long rods for good reason. Look at listings for rods for V8's. Stock length, or longer.


Later OS30 engine uses 86mm stroke[ so relevant  to our scene agreed ? ] with a 5.45 rod  Shocked, Now given what they were doing with these engines I am guessing they thought about it for quite a while before doing that.

Here's another one off top of my head[ yes I did check this before writing as its not something I am really familiar with, BMW 2002 M10 has 80mm stroke and 5.31 rod ratio, not as short as Nissan but still similar to our VW topic so I am guessing there are dozens, maybe 100s more out there.

All I am saying is there is more than one way to do things Smiley

cheers Richie


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Cars are supposed to be driven, not just talked about!!!   


Good parts might be expensive but good advice is priceless Wink
Martin S.
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« Reply #17 on: December 01, 2016, 20:13:34 pm »

I want some of what you're on if you think short rods are the way to go in a bug engine, har har  Tongue
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Cal Look white 68 Bug with AJ Sims EFI Turbo 2332. 194hp 240tq @ 5500 rpm 3psi boost.
richie
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« Reply #18 on: December 01, 2016, 20:32:16 pm »

I want some of what you're on if you think short rods are the way to go in a bug engine, har har  Tongue

PG tips Tea  Grin Yes you should try it Grin and that's not actually what I said is it?  I said there is more than just one way to do it, and there is in my opinion, we all have different ideas and aims for our engines and what we want to achieve in performance and reliability Smiley

cheers Richie
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Cars are supposed to be driven, not just talked about!!!   


Good parts might be expensive but good advice is priceless Wink
Jim Ratto
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« Reply #19 on: December 01, 2016, 20:38:17 pm »

1956 Ferrari 750 Monza: 90mm stroke, 142mm rod = 1.57
1959 Maserati T61: 92mm stroke, 143mm rod =  1.59
1967 BMW Apfelbeck M10: 80mm stroke, 135mm rod = 1.68


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Martin S.
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« Reply #20 on: December 01, 2016, 20:39:53 pm »

Maybe check your weed wacker engine too!  Tongue
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Cal Look white 68 Bug with AJ Sims EFI Turbo 2332. 194hp 240tq @ 5500 rpm 3psi boost.
spoolin70
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« Reply #21 on: December 01, 2016, 20:54:54 pm »

To#¤ta - 1JZ Bore x Stroke: 86.0mm x 71.5mm
To#¤ta - 2JZ Bore x Stroke: 86.0mm x 86.0mm

1JZ Rod Length: 125.25mm
2JZ Rod Length: 142mm

That makes a 1JZ a 1.75 rod to stroke ratio  Smiley

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Martin S.
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« Reply #22 on: December 01, 2016, 21:03:52 pm »

To#¤ta - 1JZ Bore x Stroke: 86.0mm x 71.5mm
To#¤ta - 2JZ Bore x Stroke: 86.0mm x 86.0mm

1JZ Rod Length: 125.25mm
2JZ Rod Length: 142mm

That makes a 1JZ a 1.75 rod to stroke ratio  Smiley



 Grin
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Cal Look white 68 Bug with AJ Sims EFI Turbo 2332. 194hp 240tq @ 5500 rpm 3psi boost.
Taylor
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« Reply #23 on: December 01, 2016, 21:35:11 pm »

Virtually all of Honda's B,D,H and K motors have a rod ratio shorter than an 82/Porsche rod vw. Subaru 2.5 STI is 1.66
Unless your talking under 1.4 or over 2.2 who cares?!?
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Martin S.
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« Reply #24 on: December 01, 2016, 21:56:19 pm »

Virtually all of Honda's B,D,H and K motors have a rod ratio shorter than an 82/Porsche rod vw. Subaru 2.5 STI is 1.66
Unless your talking under 1.4 or over 2.2 who cares?!?

B16A1, A2, A3 - 1.74:1

http://www.superstreetonline.com/how-to/engine/0506-ht-rod-stroke-ratio/
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Cal Look white 68 Bug with AJ Sims EFI Turbo 2332. 194hp 240tq @ 5500 rpm 3psi boost.
Martin S.
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« Reply #25 on: December 01, 2016, 22:08:22 pm »

The only 'good' reason to use a short rod is to stuff your big motor into an oval. (and that's good reason!)
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Cal Look white 68 Bug with AJ Sims EFI Turbo 2332. 194hp 240tq @ 5500 rpm 3psi boost.
Jim Ratto
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« Reply #26 on: December 01, 2016, 22:22:39 pm »

Ok, maybe a bit of a trivial question, but i am weighing the pros and cons on a solid 1mm shim under the barrel or a copper 1mm shim on top between barrel and head.
which is better, are there benefits doing one or the other?



Nicolas, one thing I learned about 20 yr ago was to machine the chamfer off the top of the cylinders, to increase seating area. No matter copper gasket or not.
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Martin S.
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« Reply #27 on: December 01, 2016, 22:51:21 pm »

Berg use to offer the service of honing your cylinders straight on a honing machine. More recently I had mine done locally and they said the new AA cylinders were wonky from new so it's well worth doing.
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Cal Look white 68 Bug with AJ Sims EFI Turbo 2332. 194hp 240tq @ 5500 rpm 3psi boost.
Eddie DVK
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« Reply #28 on: December 02, 2016, 08:41:42 am »

I want some of what you're on if you think short rods are the way to go in a bug engine, har har  Tongue

TYPE 4 engines.  Grin
Not big strokes but short rods for torque to push heavy buses.
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Regards Edgar

" Type 4, it is a completely different engine. You have to drive one to understand! "
modnrod
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« Reply #29 on: December 02, 2016, 11:17:17 am »

Cool! Back to "discussing" rod lengths again.
Good fun, keep at it, I'll get the munchies.
LOL!
 Grin
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