Race 1584cc with 48IDA's engine build up aka (Titanium Valves search)

[Greg Ward]

I didn't mean to lose a whole fin, but I ended up with a pair of numberplate frames 

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[Greg Ward]

A look down the barrels at the combustion chambers, I think they look pretty good and hopefully work as I intend them to.

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[Greg Ward]

And a look at the completed heads.

Ported the same as the last pair, set up for an 1 5/8ths exhaust and 48IDA's.

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[Greg Ward]

And now you are all caught up to date.

Today it was time to check a pushrod tube for fit, and of course even at full compression it was too long.

So with 20mm cut out of the non-spring end, it fits well, so I'll be on to the other 7 tomorrow.

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Next will be to weigh all pistons and balance accordingly as I couldn't do that until valve pockets were cut in them, since that isn't necessary I can get on with it, and then decide whether I will use the tru-arc pin locks or a set of spirolox.

Then to cut down every cylinder head stud, as with all of this they are all too long 

Later

Greg

[andrewlandon67]

This is one of the most detailed engine builds I've seen in a while... truly inspirational as now I really want to go through my 1914 and get everything done this tightly. I definitely want to see video of it running once it's all done!

[Martin S.]

11.9:1 on pump gas is that a typo 

[dive!dive!]

Excellent read. I particularly like the attention to detail on the sealing foam on the cooler (exactly what I do) - so many people ignore this and wonder why their engine is hot. That and fitting the tin properly is crucial - I spent many hours fettling the tin for a perfect fit - you have to do it if the heads are in any way flycut.
Looking forward to the end result.
Steve

[Eric Ellis (57HotrodVW)]

Word up, Gregward!

[modnrod]

Great stuff Greg! Thanks man, excellent to see the picture trail, very cool.
 
I'm trying a few different things with my new 1584 too, good fun these little things.
 

[Greg Ward]

Thanks guys,

I'm getting there, 6 weeks until the race weekend!!

[Greg Ward]

Ok so on to cutting all the pushrod tubes, none would fit as the engine is so short that even the springs were coil bound before even trying to test fit them...

Yes they are just EMPI, I'll use better ones on the next incarnation but they have a healthy 21mm ID which is great for the 0.610" lift...

They are all cut down 20mm, and I just used a nice pipe cutter to do the job...

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And then use the same tool to bevel the inside edge to the same as they came...

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[Greg Ward]

Cutting pushrods to size was next.

As per the other checks with the adjustable pushrod this is then translated to these with a felt pen area and a precision line scribed in that section.

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And then a check to make sure all are the exact (or as best as I can without a lathe) length..

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[Greg Ward]

Next onto assembling the heads.

Start with a bunch of parts.

Manley Valves,Scat dual valve springs, Lunati valve spring shims 0.020"

Bugpack lash caps, Stock valve locks ground

CB Titanium Retainers ,CB Rockers, CB Rocker Studs, CB Rocker shims...(thanks Marieanne).

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Oil the Valves

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Tested all the valve springs for installed height and fully open lift and decided that some 0.020" shims give a few more pounds of pressure and also stop the springs machining the aluminium head where it seats and still leave enough room without coil bind...

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Then add the Lunati valve spring shims

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[Greg Ward]

And assemble the head with a generic bench valve spring compressor bolted to a home made wooden base unit.

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Smack the tops of retainers to make sure locks and things are seated

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And all together

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[Greg Ward]

I always like to stamp the heads properly to their location.

Same with rockers, makes it easy to make sure things are lined up on the correct side of the engine, pen marker is ok, but stamping it makes it permanent.

1 and 2 side

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3 and 4 side

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[Greg Ward]

Now to shim the rockers correctly.

Check a basic clearance

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And a good look at the awesome quality of the CB rockers

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[Greg Ward]

Then to check each shim with a micrometer to see what we've got and put them in piles.

Roughly 0.015" and 0.028" and 0.056"

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I start from the inside first

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Then outsides

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Add some blue loctite

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[Greg Ward]

Then torque to the recommended 18Ft/Lbs

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And finished 1 and 2 side

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And finished 3 and 4 side

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Some Blue Loctite on the CB rocker studs to finish off

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[Greg Ward]

Then on to measure the pistons and correct if necessary.

3 of these were exactly 331g and the one I picked as #1 was 334, so I just corrected it.

As I've said previously, these have had the tops cut so the original Turbo dish and 4 Valve cut outs are gone, and then also machined for circlips and wrist pins cut to suit.

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[Greg Ward]

After some checking back and forth, I decided to use the Spirolox and not the Tru-arcs.

They are an absolute pain to put in (or get back out) but since they are used in high revving motorcycles so their pins don't come out, I'm happy to use them in this for safety.

I have now bought a 22mm Pin Spirolox tool which should arrive before I button this up as a longblock for good next week.

How a Spirolox works:

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[Greg Ward]

And now the biggest problem.

This engine is so short that I can't just shorten some stock Cylinder studs and everything is ok...I thought I could but I can't..

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So I contacted a good friend in Sweden to help out and he fabricated a custom set for me. Thanks Johannes 

[Greg Ward]

Whilst I'm waiting for the new studs I started to tidy up my 18yr old A1 stepped header for this engine...

1 5/8ths

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[Greg Ward]

I was gonna show what car this is going into...

Well we can all wait....

Greg

[andy198712]

amazing build!
i use the spiral locks on helicopters at work to keep the wheels on so can't be bad 

[Greg Ward]

That's amazing Andy.

thanks a heap for the input....

Should be ok on my
 stuff then.....

Greg

[dangerous]

And now the biggest problem.

This engine is so short that I can't just shorten some stock Cylinder studs and everything is ok...I thought I could but I can't..

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So I contacted a good friend in Sweden to help out and he fabricated a custom set for me. Thanks Johannes 

https://weddleindustries.com/products/1000206
Scroll down

These guys have 10.9 grade between 111 long and 173 which may help

[Greg Ward]

Thanks Dave,
I assume thats in mm, my studs at the shortest 155, longest at 220mm...

All good...I just want to get this engine done as it's been too long...

[Greg Ward]

Last 2 coats of clear on the 18yr Old exhaust to refurbish...

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[Greg Ward]

Organising some 48IDA's for this build.

I've said previously I can't afford another set of original Italian ones so the EMPI EPC 48s will have to do.

As far as my memory goes Art Thraen from ACE in Utah helped sort these out.

Castiings are amazing....

JayCee stacks....

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Bigger than a WD40Can...

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[Greg Ward]

Next thing is to get the 48IDA tools out...(none of these exist to buy anymore so I made my own).

Not sure I've seen a step by step on how to use these, but here we go and how I use them.

1. Needle and seat height tool.... 25mm

2. Float hold down tool....24mm

3. Float Hang tool, 5.5mm-6.00mm mine made at 5.75mm

Weber Tools:

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with all laid out :

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