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Author Topic: remote oil cooler fan operation  (Read 9438 times)
Martin S.
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« Reply #30 on: May 03, 2018, 21:55:55 pm »

Wait, you have an auto meter temp gauge with a VDO dip stick oil thermostat? That could be a problem.
I've got a VDO plunger sender with a VDO gauge and haven't seen any problems like what you had.
My VDO cylinder head temp gauge is questionable tho.  Undecided
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Cal Look white 68 Bug with AJ Sims EFI Turbo 2332. 194hp 240tq @ 5500 rpm 3psi boost.
Jim Ratto
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« Reply #31 on: May 03, 2018, 21:59:47 pm »

I borrowed an infra red thermometer, took the car for a good run, the auto meter temp gauge read just over 240 degrees  and the fan did not come on. Took the dipstick sender out and touched it, very warm, but not excessive. I then measured the following temps with the thermometer:
Heads: 240 degrees
Oil filter: 170 degrees
Block: 175 degrees
Kept the car running (ticking over) to get warmer and after a few minutes the fan kicked in!! All the readings had then gone up about 10 degrees. Turned the car off and after a couple of minutes the fan switched off - working exactly as intended!!
So looks like after a certain temp, the sender/gauge goes way out of calibration - so the bin it is!!


that's good news... at least an easy fix.
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Martin S.
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« Reply #32 on: May 03, 2018, 23:19:19 pm »

The infra red thermometer is the key. That's how I know how hot my turbo gets  Wink
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Cal Look white 68 Bug with AJ Sims EFI Turbo 2332. 194hp 240tq @ 5500 rpm 3psi boost.
ibg
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« Reply #33 on: May 04, 2018, 02:04:42 am »

I use a Dakota digital gauges that are always within 10deg C of my infrared gun both for head temps and oil temps
heads;  http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm 
oil temp: http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm
they also do long leads for the thermo couple head gauges which we need with our rear engine cars
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Pedalpusher
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« Reply #34 on: May 04, 2018, 06:34:40 am »

I use the Dakota digital Head temp gauge also. Like it a lot!
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Martin S.
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« Reply #35 on: May 04, 2018, 18:47:29 pm »

Interesting. What temps do you see with the cyl head temp gauge? And where do you have the sender mounted?
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Cal Look white 68 Bug with AJ Sims EFI Turbo 2332. 194hp 240tq @ 5500 rpm 3psi boost.
ibg
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Posts: 136


« Reply #36 on: May 05, 2018, 08:35:57 am »

I've got my sender under #3 plug. It's a 2387 with S/E heads (which are known for running hot).
I have done everything to keep temps down, full tin, flaps, velocity ring on shroud, thermal insulating and dispersal coatings, Nikie cylinders, piston squirters, deck lid stand off (worth 30 deg).
330 - 360 at 100KPH (depends on the weather) up to 420 when I sink the boot in hill climbing.
Setrab cooler as well, which I also think contributes to getting the heat out of the heads via the oil.
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Martin S.
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« Reply #37 on: May 07, 2018, 17:58:06 pm »

Sounds decent. 100kph eh. I like to stick to those kind of cruising speeds as well. Unless I can change my gearing to give me a lower rpm on the highway, I'll stick to going slow keeping to the right, or choosing two lane blacktops (the best) for my pleasure drives. I'd like my engine to last as long as possible anyway so keeping the vibration and stress of constant high rpm cruising to a minimum is good.
I'm not sure if my heads are cooling the oil or the other way around in my case  Shocked
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Cal Look white 68 Bug with AJ Sims EFI Turbo 2332. 194hp 240tq @ 5500 rpm 3psi boost.
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