Project CFC#1, turbo, back halfed and light

[Erlend / bug66]

But when the price jumped up almost 100% I really couldn't justify it.

Welcome to the world of street cars

Your comment just needed a slight adjustment.. 

[richie]

But when the price jumped up almost 100% I really couldn't justify it.

Welcome to the world of street cars

 

Your comment just needed a slight adjustment.. 

[Erlend / bug66]

Our new garage is about halfway between Oslo and Gardermoen, so I thought I should drive the car to SCC the first year it'll race..  I think it's about 25km, so doable 


Does anyone have a good tip about brakes? The car already have discs on all four corners, but 4x130 rotors. Money wise I should just buy new rotors in chevy PCD. 10,22 on EMPI brakes was no problem, so a second faster shouldn't be a big problem?   

[Erlend / bug66]

No car in the garage, so tore the engine for a checkup.

So far so good!


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[richie]

I can see a car in the garage  

Hard to tell on plugs as looks like they done a few passes? but timing mark looks quite far down strap

[Erlend / bug66]

I can see a car in the garage  

Hard to tell on plugs as looks like they done a few passes? but timing mark looks quite far down strap

Not my car 

All last season. Dyno and SCC, and some street miles

[Erlend / bug66]

How does one read timing on the plug?

[richie]

On the ground strap, if you do a pass on new plugs and check them after[ mustnt drive car back though, shut it off straight after pass] you will see a ring on strap, around the bend area or slightly before seems to be ideal on alcohol based fuels

[Erlend / bug66]

On the ground strap, if you do a pass on new plugs and check them after[ mustnt drive car back though, shut it off straight after pass] you will see a ring on strap, around the bend area or slightly before seems to be ideal on alcohol based fuels

Ok, i believe I’ve got around 20° timing at 32-33 psi.

[Erlend / bug66]

I’ve also spent some time to figure out the angles to mount the coil overs at.

At level axles (0° camber) they will be angled 20° inwards to the middle of the car, and 90° to the upper ladder bar tube.

This will aid the coil overs to not loose wheel rate (spring rate measured at the wheel).

If you mount them straight up, they will get a wrong angle due to the arching of the swingaxle, and get less and less wheel rate as the wheel travels up.

Now the wheel rate should get higher as the car squats more and more.

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[leec]

Hi,

Are the heads  CB wedgeports?
What cc is in the chambers

Thanks,
Lee

[Erlend / bug66]

Hi,

Are the heads  CB wedgeports?
What cc is in the chambers

Thanks,
Lee

Yup, the new style.

67cc chambers, 1,2mm deck and 8,2-1 I think.

Haven’t touched the heads.

[leec]

What barrels and pistons? Have you dished the pistons?
Thanks,
Lee

[Erlend / bug66]

What barrels and pistons? Have you dished the pistons?
Thanks,
Lee

Wiseco and REVs.

No need for dishing pistons with big enough chambers

[kalle155]

Are you using only the stock dh oil cooler or do you have an extrenal also? , and does your oil temp stay cool with that?

[Erlend / bug66]

Are you using only the stock dh oil cooler or do you have an extrenal also? , and does your oil temp stay cool with that?

Stock and an Atoimic cooler also. I might skip the DH cooler. The engine will be 3" higher in the new car, and I think I'll need to be able to remove the shroud by just pivoting it out.

Oil temps are manageable 

[Erlend / bug66]

Tore the rest of the engine last night, rod bearings are shite and mains may work again.

I'll change the oil pump as it finally got some nicks in it.

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[Frallan]

Solution: Dry sump. Check out TP pump. Very good stuff.
CB is more affordable but needs massaging and has some questions marks.
Pauter, Autocraft are jewels but are probably overkill for most applications.

[Erlend / bug66]

Solution: Dry sump. Check out TP pump. Very good stuff.
CB is more affordable but needs massaging and has some questions marks.
Pauter, Autocraft are jewels but are probably overkill for most applications.

I've thought the same thought.. However I've never had any oil pressure problem.

I believe this may be a crank issue? The crank only has 1 oil port per rod, and consequently the rod bearing needs to drag the oil 1 round, before being oiled on the same spot?

[richie]

Looks like oil contamination from E85 & maybe some aeration of oil to me, center main looks pretty good for all the abuse it gets, also oil pressure like boost pressure is only a measure of resistance, its flow the bearings really need, thick cold oil gives lots of pressure but no flow which is why we pre heat oil

[Erlend / bug66]

Looks like oil contamination from E85 & maybe some aeration of oil to me, center main looks pretty good for all the abuse it gets, also oil pressure like boost pressure is only a measure of resistance, its flow the bearings really need, thick cold oil gives lots of pressure but no flow which is why we pre heat oil

Thanks!

I never drive it before the oil is hot. But yeah, I admit to using thick oil 

Maybe I should start to get parts for a dry sump system after all..

[Erlend / bug66]

Richie: Internal vs. external bearing grooves. Done any research?

[richie]

I used plenty of both, never seen any real evidence of either being better or worse, more important to make sure oil holes line up and bearing is decent quality material

[Erlend / bug66]

I used plenty of both, never seen any real evidence of either being better or worse, more important to make sure oil holes line up and bearing is decent quality material

Jo said you’ve got silverlines in stock? Any good?

[Berger]

Solution: Dry sump. Check out TP pump. Very good stuff.
CB is more affordable but needs massaging and has some questions marks.
Pauter, Autocraft are jewels but are probably overkill for most applications.

I've thought the same thought.. However I've never had any oil pressure problem.

I believe this may be a crank issue? The crank only has 1 oil port per rod, and consequently the rod bearing needs to drag the oil 1 round, before being oiled on the same spot?

You need to use a better oil, Ester base handles E85 very well, gives a stronger oil film and hangs on to metal longer. It`s all about when the oil film gives up

[Erlend / bug66]

Solution: Dry sump. Check out TP pump. Very good stuff.
CB is more affordable but needs massaging and has some questions marks.
Pauter, Autocraft are jewels but are probably overkill for most applications.

I've thought the same thought.. However I've never had any oil pressure problem.

I believe this may be a crank issue? The crank only has 1 oil port per rod, and consequently the rod bearing needs to drag the oil 1 round, before being oiled on the same spot?

You need to use a better oil, Ester base handles E85 very well, gives a stronger oil film and hangs on to metal longer. It`s all about when the oil film gives up

I'm sure oil plays it’s part also!

I’ll clean the case and internals up good and slap new bearings in it. Might do a dry sump, if the money is right..



I only need a few bits and bobs on the engine this year, so quite pleased!

[Erlend / bug66]

While the car is in Sweden, the engine in pieces, and the transmission in plastic waiting to get re-sealed, I'm thinking about making the new exhaust  

I think I need a new header, as the "CB-style" I have will interfere with everything.. Tubo will hit the rear valance at the minimum.




That said, I also need to make new plenums, or at least redo the ones I have. They will be too tall, at least the entrance pipes into the plenums.

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I was hoping to not have to cut away the "roof" below the window inside the engine room.


Looking at old pictures, I'm hoping I can use the intake/TBs at all..

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[richie]

Welcome to the world of race cars

Again

[Erlend / bug66]

Hah! I’m not complaining.. I’m just breaking everything down, so I can sleep at night without crying 

[richie]

With all that room you have over trans now seems stupid to not move turbo forward anyway to help with weight distribution