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Author Topic: The 4" Bore Thread  (Read 119890 times)
andy198712
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« Reply #450 on: February 25, 2020, 20:25:22 pm »

4 years now, many people still doing 4inches or has it fallen out of fashion?
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UltraOrange67-2443
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« Reply #451 on: February 29, 2020, 21:05:11 pm »

Still building mine, about 7 years now  Shocked
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1967 1200 2920cc EFI
andy198712
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Posts: 1036



« Reply #452 on: February 29, 2020, 21:17:26 pm »

Still building mine, about 7 years now  Shocked

Iíve just brought a wbx to aircool and Iím thinking about it, but itís some major money to drop on the heads isnít it?!
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spoolin70
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Posts: 505



« Reply #453 on: March 01, 2020, 11:16:53 am »

I've still got mine but it's in boxes spread over two counties  Roll Eyes

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spoolin70
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Posts: 505



« Reply #454 on: March 01, 2020, 11:26:41 am »

The closest I've got is my 'eco' mock up engine  Cheesy

[ Attachment: You are not allowed to view attachments ]
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andy198712
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« Reply #455 on: March 01, 2020, 21:30:18 pm »

The closest I've got is my 'eco' mock up engine  Cheesy

[ Attachment: You are not allowed to view attachments ]

looks like 3inch to me?  Grin

i'm currently weighing up keeping the WBX head stud pattern and looking into 4in bore.... or going smaller  Cry
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UltraOrange67-2443
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« Reply #456 on: March 01, 2020, 22:42:21 pm »

Still building mine, about 7 years now  Shocked

Iíve just brought a wbx to aircool and Iím thinking about it, but itís some major money to drop on the heads isnít it?!

Not just the heads!
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1967 1200 2920cc EFI
andy198712
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Posts: 1036



« Reply #457 on: March 02, 2020, 13:32:00 pm »

Still building mine, about 7 years now  Shocked

Iíve just brought a wbx to aircool and Iím thinking about it, but itís some major money to drop on the heads isnít it?!

Not just the heads!

This is true.
The thing that catches me eye is the gap between the cylinders is so small, I donít use my car as a daily anymore but I like to drive it and plan a trip to Europe once itís all up and running I think so need something that can handle the distance okay at sensible speeds (60-70 prolonged)
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spoolin70
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Posts: 505



« Reply #458 on: March 02, 2020, 13:33:25 pm »

The closest I've got is my 'eco' mock up engine  Cheesy

[ Attachment: You are not allowed to view attachments ]

looks like 3inch to me?  Grin

i'm currently weighing up keeping the WBX head stud pattern and looking into 4in bore.... or going smaller  Cry

Wooden cylinders are a lot cheaper than Pauter but I suspect they don't cool as well  Grin

Andy - what did you have in mind for pistons and barrels ?
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pupjoint
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« Reply #459 on: March 29, 2020, 18:58:33 pm »

4" bore still popular today?

thinking of getting some parts for one with TF-1 case. what bore and stroke is recomended and who sells the crank, rods, pistons?
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UltraOrange67-2443
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Posts: 975



« Reply #460 on: March 29, 2020, 21:25:59 pm »

4" bore still popular today?

thinking of getting some parts for one with TF-1 case. what bore and stroke is recomended and who sells the crank, rods, pistons?

This Virus ain't helping my 4" build!
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1967 1200 2920cc EFI
richie
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Posts: 5388



« Reply #461 on: March 29, 2020, 21:41:05 pm »

4" bore still popular today?

thinking of getting some parts for one with TF-1 case. what bore and stroke is recomended and who sells the crank, rods, pistons?

It is here Wink  Depends on what you want to do with it? race or street? N/A/turbo/nitrous?

cheers Richie
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Good parts might be expensive but good advice is priceless Wink
richie
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« Reply #462 on: March 29, 2020, 21:44:07 pm »

4" bore still popular today?

thinking of getting some parts for one with TF-1 case. what bore and stroke is recomended and who sells the crank, rods, pistons?

This Virus ain't helping my 4" build!

What actually is the hold up on it? seems like you been waiting several years?

cheers Richie
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Good parts might be expensive but good advice is priceless Wink
andy198712
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Posts: 1036



« Reply #463 on: March 29, 2020, 22:50:57 pm »

The closest I've got is my 'eco' mock up engine  Cheesy

[ Attachment: You are not allowed to view attachments ]

looks like 3inch to me?  Grin

i'm currently weighing up keeping the WBX head stud pattern and looking into 4in bore.... or going smaller  Cry

Wooden cylinders are a lot cheaper than Pauter but I suspect they don't cool as well  Grin

Andy - what did you have in mind for pistons and barrels ?

Deutz or Porsche 964 Iím thinking.... pistons I donít know but more then likely have some made unless I find some that fit well....
Long term build though, probably 100mm bore too maybe... who knows. The heads are the main factor, was look at aircraft heads earlier in an oxyboxer build from lambiech (sp)

Iíve got another engine to finish and blow up first Wink
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UltraOrange67-2443
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Posts: 975



« Reply #464 on: March 29, 2020, 23:06:04 pm »

4" bore still popular today?

thinking of getting some parts for one with TF-1 case. what bore and stroke is recomended and who sells the crank, rods, pistons?

This Virus ain't helping my 4" build!

What actually is the hold up on it? seems like you been waiting several years?

cheers Richie

Very slow engine builder.

Got my parts back now
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1967 1200 2920cc EFI
pupjoint
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Posts: 701


« Reply #465 on: March 30, 2020, 01:22:31 am »

4" bore still popular today?

thinking of getting some parts for one with TF-1 case. what bore and stroke is recomended and who sells the crank, rods, pistons?

It is here Wink  Depends on what you want to do with it? race or street? N/A/turbo/nitrous?

cheers Richie

80 % street with highway driving. 20% hill climb spirited driving and maybe once twice a year fun drag. 4 speed gearbox with 3.88 RP ratios to be spec out accordingly . NA with Type 1 cooling. Sequential EFI with Jenvey IDA throttle bodies. I have European RON 100 and RON 98mm TF-1 case is what I have in mind, need advise on the rest of the parts.  currently running sequential EFI 2332 with 170whp type 1 cooling 044 heads, Wasp Stage 1 exhaust. JPM heads only option?

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mikko k
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Posts: 103


« Reply #466 on: March 30, 2020, 02:54:35 am »

JPM heads are the best option for street use.
« Last Edit: March 30, 2020, 02:57:17 am by mikko k » Logged
brewsy
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« Reply #467 on: March 30, 2020, 15:46:12 pm »

The closest I've got is my 'eco' mock up engine  Cheesy

[ Attachment: You are not allowed to view attachments ]

Thats a 2x4 engine isnt it??  Wink
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DaveN
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Posts: 406



« Reply #468 on: March 30, 2020, 18:04:50 pm »

If itís for a Race car maybe but for a Road car waste of time and money.  How fast can you go on the road? Doesnít matter if you have a 2.8 or a 2165 you wonít get traction.  It makes  more sense to me to use off the shelf parts 94mm B&P, CNC heads, etc for a road car or use those parts with a power adder if racing. They are cheaper, more available and you wonít be waiting years.
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Best ET 10.64 @125 on DOT street tyres, a long time ago
Wray
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WWW
« Reply #469 on: March 30, 2020, 19:02:47 pm »

Here is mine pity it's on hold due to other projects




Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

« Last Edit: March 30, 2020, 19:04:56 pm by Wray » Logged
spoolin70
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« Reply #470 on: March 31, 2020, 22:10:18 pm »

If itís for a Race car maybe but for a Road car waste of time and money.  How fast can you go on the road? Doesnít matter if you have a 2.8 or a 2165 you wonít get traction.  It makes  more sense to me to use off the shelf parts 94mm B&P, CNC heads, etc for a road car or use those parts with a power adder if racing. They are cheaper, more available and you wonít be waiting years.

Do you have a heavy right foot Dave  Cheesy
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DaveN
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Posts: 406



« Reply #471 on: April 01, 2020, 08:05:50 am »


Do you have a heavy right foot Dave  Cheesy

Not particularly
But Iím sure you can see my point that itís a waste of time buying expensive/exotic parts for a car that will spend its life on the road and wonít be able to put the power down.

I do actually own a 4Ē bore motor, noise out of choice. I tried to sell it but unless I wanted to give it away, I couldnít sell it so I built it.
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Best ET 10.64 @125 on DOT street tyres, a long time ago
andy198712
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Posts: 1036



« Reply #472 on: April 01, 2020, 10:36:35 am »


Do you have a heavy right foot Dave  Cheesy

Not particularly
But Iím sure you can see my point that itís a waste of time buying expensive/exotic parts for a car that will spend its life on the road and wonít be able to put the power down.

I do actually own a 4Ē bore motor, noise out of choice. I tried to sell it but unless I wanted to give it away, I couldnít sell it so I built it.

if i do one, it will just be the challenge of doing it.... just as a hobby and personal interest Smiley
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Eddie
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Posts: 744



« Reply #473 on: April 01, 2020, 11:50:31 am »

If itís for a Race car maybe but for a Road car waste of time and money.  How fast can you go on the road? Doesnít matter if you have a 2.8 or a 2165 you wonít get traction.  It makes  more sense to me to use off the shelf parts 94mm B&P, CNC heads, etc for a road car or use those parts with a power adder if racing. They are cheaper, more available and you wonít be waiting years.

Just to scare audi s tesla s en mercs, a 170hp engine won t do that anymore.
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Regards Edgar

" Type 4, it is a completely different engine. You have to drive one to understand! "
DaveN
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« Reply #474 on: April 01, 2020, 15:13:56 pm »

I
Just to scare audi s tesla s en mercs, a 170hp engine won t do that anymore.

Most of these modern cars are AWD now and the 0-60 times are getting lower even the heavy ones, E series , 5 series, etc.
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Best ET 10.64 @125 on DOT street tyres, a long time ago
richie
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Posts: 5388



« Reply #475 on: April 01, 2020, 18:38:33 pm »

4" bore still popular today?

thinking of getting some parts for one with TF-1 case. what bore and stroke is recomended and who sells the crank, rods, pistons?

It is here Wink  Depends on what you want to do with it? race or street? N/A/turbo/nitrous?

cheers Richie

80 % street with highway driving. 20% hill climb spirited driving and maybe once twice a year fun drag. 4 speed gearbox with 3.88 RP ratios to be spec out accordingly . NA with Type 1 cooling. Sequential EFI with Jenvey IDA throttle bodies. I have European RON 100 and RON 98mm TF-1 case is what I have in mind, need advise on the rest of the parts.  currently running sequential EFI 2332 with 170whp type 1 cooling 044 heads, Wasp Stage 1 exhaust. JPM heads only option?



If you got the budget then 82x101.6 ,5.4 rod with "C" pin height piston keeps it nice and narrow and pushrods short, I would do flange crank and get thrust set up done to the tf1 case, there are few heads out there that can be used or made to work [like cb comp elims with no stud pattern] JPMs probably cool the best but both angleflos and comp elims been proven to work on street and cool good enough, and there are some others from Thorsten pieper that look like they would cool well 
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Good parts might be expensive but good advice is priceless Wink
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