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Author Topic: How about a mileage thread?  (Read 3162 times)
Karlos99
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« Reply #30 on: January 04, 2021, 21:59:29 pm »

[img width=800 heig
« Last Edit: January 04, 2021, 22:01:56 pm by Karlos99 » Logged
Catbox
Jr. Member
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Posts: 86


Slave to internal combustion.


« Reply #31 on: January 05, 2021, 02:34:02 am »

You are assuming that my odometer actually works.
Mine has read the same 43,932.6 since I bought it....
I have put 60-80000 miles on it since I have had it.
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andrewlandon67
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Posts: 401



« Reply #32 on: January 05, 2021, 17:41:16 pm »

acer aspire spacebar

Not a looker I know but Got my bus back on the road in January 2020 after a 2 yr full resto and since then Iíve covered 2970 miles in it according to the new smiths electronic speedo.  couple trips to SantaPod but mostly commuting thanks to the pandemic  Undecided had many more trips planned but nearly all that got cancelled. Owned the bus for 13 yrs in total, canít remember how many Iíve done over the years but it does get used as much as possible, I must normally put 7-8k a year on it at least.

I switched from 44ís to IDAís while doing the resto and was excepting a bit of a drop in fuel economy but on my trips to the pod (140 miles) itís averages about 25mpg which Iím very happy with  Grin

That's a badass looking bus, and 7-8k miles per year is nothing to sneeze at, especially running IDAs! What kind of motor do you have pushing that thing?

Thanks man, appreciate that  Cool itís a 2110/90.5x82, FK10 cam, straight cut gears, 1.4 rockers, cb 044 ultramag heads (42x37.5) 10:1cr, full weight flywheel, IDAís on scat tracs, a full Mallory CDI ignition & an A1 1Ē 5/8 sidewinder exhaust. Built 091 box and Porsche turbo brakes. Far from the fastest bus around but itís still pretty damn quick though  and eats miles like a modern car which is exactly what I wanted



That sounds like a riot compared to most of the bay windows I've driven, and 25 mpg isn't far off of what I've seen out of my grandma's '70 with a stock 1600DP.
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14.877 @ 88.85 mph

Dreaming of IDAs, planning on paint someday. "Walking Softly and Carrying a Big Fucking Stick" - Zach G.
Karlos99
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Posts: 36


« Reply #33 on: January 06, 2021, 13:57:04 pm »

Yeah it is good fun and nice to drive too. No 3rd progression hole nonsense here  Wink Iíve thought about efi turbo in the past and as great  as 250+ Hp would be I love the sound of an N/A engine and itís simple, if it plays up itís easy to fix. I think the good fuel economy can be put down to a 091 box with .77 4th, does 70mph at about 3200 so nice low revs for cruising and never gets hot either. So for all the people who think you canít run a big cam or idaís in a bus.... hereís proof you can  Grin
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andrewlandon67
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Posts: 401



« Reply #34 on: January 06, 2021, 17:09:54 pm »

Yeah it is good fun and nice to drive too. No 3rd progression hole nonsense here  Wink Iíve thought about efi turbo in the past and as great  as 250+ Hp would be I love the sound of an N/A engine and itís simple, if it plays up itís easy to fix. I think the good fuel economy can be put down to a 091 box with .77 4th, does 70mph at about 3200 so nice low revs for cruising and never gets hot either. So for all the people who think you canít run a big cam or idaís in a bus.... hereís proof you can  Grin

The way I see it, the EFI Turbo stuff is good for show cars that will never need to actually prove anything other than the owner's wallet size, or all-out drag cars running single digit 1/4 miles. The rest of us who just like driving our cars can keep running carbs and enjoying motors with character  Cool
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14.877 @ 88.85 mph

Dreaming of IDAs, planning on paint someday. "Walking Softly and Carrying a Big Fucking Stick" - Zach G.
Martin S.
Hero Member
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Posts: 946



« Reply #35 on: January 08, 2021, 20:50:22 pm »

You are assuming that my odometer actually works.
Mine has read the same 43,932.6 since I bought it....
I have put 60-80000 miles on it since I have had it.

I once fixed a odo by taking it apart and it was a tiny plastic gear on a shaft that was spinning.
I pulled the gear off with my fingers, added a drop of crazy glue and slid it back on.
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Cal Look white 68 Bug with AJ Sims EFI Turbo 2332. 194hp 240tq @ 5500 rpm 3psi boost.
Martin S.
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« Reply #36 on: January 08, 2021, 20:58:50 pm »

Yeah it is good fun and nice to drive too. No 3rd progression hole nonsense here  Wink Iíve thought about efi turbo in the past and as great  as 250+ Hp would be I love the sound of an N/A engine and itís simple, if it plays up itís easy to fix. I think the good fuel economy can be put down to a 091 box with .77 4th, does 70mph at about 3200 so nice low revs for cruising and never gets hot either. So for all the people who think you canít run a big cam or idaís in a bus.... hereís proof you can  Grin

The way I see it, the EFI Turbo stuff is good for show cars that will never need to actually prove anything other than the owner's wallet size, or all-out drag cars running single digit 1/4 miles. The rest of us who just like driving our cars can keep running carbs and enjoying motors with character  Cool

My EFI turbo has been fairly trouble free for a big-ass engine with a huge cam driven on the street and to work every day (when I could) ever since the mid 2000's. So far I've had the hand-made hold-down clamp for the injectors let go and start spraying gas (easy enough temp fix with a zip tie) and as well more recently the 009 points (which I forgot about) used for the sequential trigger for the injectors wore down and it started running rich and blowing black smoke. What was the most difficult to figure out (on my own with some advice) was a bad cold start sensor. The sensor is the one from a late EFI stock VW air cooled bug. Just by temp replacing it with a fixed resistor did the trick as it is basically just a choke equivalent for start up enrichment. Not bad for thousands of miles and over a decade of LOTS of driving. Fires up every spring without a delay (fingers crossed!!).
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Cal Look white 68 Bug with AJ Sims EFI Turbo 2332. 194hp 240tq @ 5500 rpm 3psi boost.
brewsy
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Posts: 260



« Reply #37 on: January 08, 2021, 21:46:48 pm »


The way I see it, the EFI Turbo stuff is good for show cars that will never need to actually prove anything other than the owner's wallet size, or all-out drag cars running single digit 1/4 miles. The rest of us who just like driving our cars can keep running carbs and enjoying motors with character  Cool

Andrew, Absolutely not meaning to start a FLAME war here..  Grin
I think the OG Cal Look always has a place for a pair of rip snorting IDA's, points and coil OR Magneto BUT there is a lot to be said for supercharging (exhaust or mechanical)  and perhaps more importantly modern management systems.
Yes they 'used' to be somewhat unwieldy and expensive but now there are some seriously simple setups available and even they have the ability to 'work around' rather large mismatches and provide smooth drivability, idle and even starting ability.
Cam too big? A good system will probably make it 'somewhat' driveable.
Cold starts? Every time it will go.
Engine protection. Hook up a few more sensors and the system will help keep your engine alive by either shutting down or limping if it detects anything out of the ordinary.

At the end of the day its all personal preference, what your comfortable with and how much YOU want to spend...  Wink

Cheers
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andrewlandon67
Sr. Member
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Posts: 401



« Reply #38 on: January 08, 2021, 22:00:05 pm »


The way I see it, the EFI Turbo stuff is good for show cars that will never need to actually prove anything other than the owner's wallet size, or all-out drag cars running single digit 1/4 miles. The rest of us who just like driving our cars can keep running carbs and enjoying motors with character  Cool

Andrew, Absolutely not meaning to start a FLAME war here..  Grin
I think the OG Cal Look always has a place for a pair of rip snorting IDA's, points and coil OR Magneto BUT there is a lot to be said for supercharging (exhaust or mechanical)  and perhaps more importantly modern management systems.
Yes they 'used' to be somewhat unwieldy and expensive but now there are some seriously simple setups available and even they have the ability to 'work around' rather large mismatches and provide smooth drivability, idle and even starting ability.
Cam too big? A good system will probably make it 'somewhat' driveable.
Cold starts? Every time it will go.
Engine protection. Hook up a few more sensors and the system will help keep your engine alive by either shutting down or limping if it detects anything out of the ordinary.

At the end of the day its all personal preference, what your comfortable with and how much YOU want to spend...  Wink

Cheers

I suppose that's a better way to describe how I feel about it, definitely not trying to start any crap with anybody on here, I just feel like if I wanted a turbo with EFI I'd sell my bug for a WRX. To each their own though!
Logged

14.877 @ 88.85 mph

Dreaming of IDAs, planning on paint someday. "Walking Softly and Carrying a Big Fucking Stick" - Zach G.
Martin S.
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Posts: 946



« Reply #39 on: January 09, 2021, 03:16:16 am »

I like the hot rod aspect to the hobby and trying new things over the years while still staying with the theme of German air cooled no bling all business taking queues from traditional muscle car hot rodding blah blah. Thereís nothing Japanese-looking about my engine.
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Cal Look white 68 Bug with AJ Sims EFI Turbo 2332. 194hp 240tq @ 5500 rpm 3psi boost.
Karlos99
Newbie
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Posts: 36


« Reply #40 on: January 09, 2021, 11:38:17 am »

I know several people who have turbo motors without any issues and the draw of the awesome turbo power is very strong lol. But I love the N/A sound. 1 day id like to build a potent 2387 with a raptor cam etc and plonk my IDAís on it but the 2110 is reliable, good on fuel and plenty powerful enough for a street driven bus.

My aunt is hassling me to move to the US so perhaps Iíll take the plunge then  Grin as speed parts in the U.K. are £££ lol
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Martin S.
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Posts: 946



« Reply #41 on: January 11, 2021, 22:10:27 pm »

What are you high mileage people finding that needs maintenance with your cars over time?

When my buddy heard one of my engines he said the heads are lifting and sure enough the head studs/nuts were loose.
Then, when we checked my other cars, they ALL had loose heads to different degrees, and some we simply tightened the lower four nuts thinking it's better having half loose rather than all loose.
These are high mileage engines in general.
Do you re-torque heads? What about freshening up valve jobs?
Not new heads, or performance upgrades, I mean heads that are still good, ported, etc., how long before they need valves reground or replaced, or dual springs replaced, etc., on high performance engines driven a LOT?
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Cal Look white 68 Bug with AJ Sims EFI Turbo 2332. 194hp 240tq @ 5500 rpm 3psi boost.
Karlos99
Newbie
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Posts: 36


« Reply #42 on: January 16, 2021, 00:17:43 am »

I change the oil & filter and check the valve lash every 1500 miles, check the timing and the carb balance at the same time. Only had to tweek the carbs a couple of times when it was still pretty new, put that down to things settling in. Fit new spark plugs, clean fuel filter & change gear oil every yearís also. I drive my bus pretty hard, but Iím pretty fussy about maintaining it, use top notch oil etc and I donít give it any shit till itís warmed up. Bus has had a big motor for 10 yrs and the only issue Iíve had is the crappy DRD heads cracking and the guides moving which we found before anything bad happened. But itís Never failed to get me home  Grin
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andrewlandon67
Sr. Member
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Posts: 401



« Reply #43 on: January 16, 2021, 01:04:20 am »

What are you high mileage people finding that needs maintenance with your cars over time?

When my buddy heard one of my engines he said the heads are lifting and sure enough the head studs/nuts were loose.
Then, when we checked my other cars, they ALL had loose heads to different degrees, and some we simply tightened the lower four nuts thinking it's better having half loose rather than all loose.
These are high mileage engines in general.
Do you re-torque heads? What about freshening up valve jobs?
Not new heads, or performance upgrades, I mean heads that are still good, ported, etc., how long before they need valves reground or replaced, or dual springs replaced, etc., on high performance engines driven a LOT?

I check the lower four head studs every other valve adjustment when I take the rockers off, there's no replacement for peace of mind. When I pull the motor this spring for a new clutch, I'll strip it down and go through all of them, it hasn't been done since I built it a few years back.
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14.877 @ 88.85 mph

Dreaming of IDAs, planning on paint someday. "Walking Softly and Carrying a Big Fucking Stick" - Zach G.
baz
Hero Member
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Posts: 710



« Reply #44 on: February 16, 2021, 16:54:45 pm »

First day out of 2021 after a lay up. Filthy.





Cause of lay up, I've a gift it seems when it comes to breaking starters, luckily I had spare parts to fix it.

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I will prevail.
leec
Hero Member
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Posts: 2433


« Reply #45 on: February 16, 2021, 17:48:23 pm »

Car looks good as always Baz. You definately do not starter motors do you! Maybe do a hand crank start conversion  Grin
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O/FF 26
baz
Hero Member
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Posts: 710



« Reply #46 on: February 16, 2021, 18:03:05 pm »

Car looks good as always Baz. You definately do not starter motors do you! Maybe do a hand crank start conversion  Grin

 Cheesy I know how I broke this one, it was in gear when I started it and it jammed the starter and broke one tooth on that gear, cleaned the broken tooth and put it back in, lasted a few weeks before shedding the rest

The other failures I've no idea, but thankfully a handful of broken starters are handy to have for spare parts  Cheesy
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I will prevail.
Bruce
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Posts: 1402


« Reply #47 on: February 20, 2021, 12:06:25 pm »

we checked my other cars, they ALL had loose heads to different degrees,
This tells me it's you, not the engines.  What are you doing to your engines that cause this?  Pre-ignition? Too low octane?

how long before they need valves reground or replaced, or dual springs replaced, etc., on high performance engines driven a LOT?
My engine, with 103k miles on it, hasn't had the heads off.  When I built it, I purposely installed well used dual springs to get a bit less spring pressure than new ones.
I don't buy into a lot of aftermarket crap unless there's an absolute need.  I'm talking about head studs/nuts. I've never heard of, or seen a broken head stud, so I only use original 45 year old genuine VW studs. 
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Martin S.
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Posts: 946



« Reply #48 on: February 22, 2021, 21:31:48 pm »

we checked my other cars, they ALL had loose heads to different degrees,
This tells me it's you, not the engines.  What are you doing to your engines that cause this?  Pre-ignition? Too low octane?

how long before they need valves reground or replaced, or dual springs replaced, etc., on high performance engines driven a LOT?
My engine, with 103k miles on it, hasn't had the heads off.  When I built it, I purposely installed well used dual springs to get a bit less spring pressure than new ones.
I don't buy into a lot of aftermarket crap unless there's an absolute need.  I'm talking about head studs/nuts. I've never heard of, or seen a broken head stud, so I only use original 45 year old genuine VW studs. 

Probably all of the above Bruce. This was apparent on my original 71 van as well which had a couple owners before me. When I did a top end job on a low mileage 68 bug that had the original engine, never removed (washers still under the 4 engine mounting nuts), I checked and retorqued the case hardware and again ALL of the nuts were loose, and quite loose!
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Cal Look white 68 Bug with AJ Sims EFI Turbo 2332. 194hp 240tq @ 5500 rpm 3psi boost.
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