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Author Topic: Front Beam Bushings  (Read 4203 times)
andrewlandon67
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« on: April 30, 2021, 23:54:01 pm »

So the last time I had time to monkey with my '67, I had the front end up in the air and noticed a significant amount of play in the lower left trailing arm/beam, so I think it's time to do a bit of rebuilding a beam. I've been digging around for months now, off and on, and I've finally seemingly found suitable replacement Micarta bushings from Wolfsburg West, but now I'm stuck having difficulty finding much about the actual job of replacing the damn things.

Does anyone have any good advice or links to good threads with pictures about how this has been done before?
« Last Edit: April 30, 2021, 23:55:45 pm by andrewlandon67 » Logged

14.877 @ 88.85 mph

My car is what it is, maybe not Cal Look per the books, but it's more than most.

"Walking Softly and Carrying a Big Fucking Stick" - Zach G.
ibg
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« Reply #1 on: May 02, 2021, 10:41:30 am »

you can tap it out with a piece of pipe from the other side or pull it out with the 'floppy washer' method. here is a link to the method though I used a thick washer not a piece of 1/2 steel. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5io0hGXW9kk
I machined down a piece of aluminium rod to the inner diameter of the beam to make a special drift to put the new ones in.
on my current beam i made bronze bushings as the arm was a bit worn so it was still loose in the new micarta bush. Check your arms are still within tolerance or check by sliding on the micarta bush. I also made a drift for the outer roller races.
This is THE was to do up a beam, so smooth, and so much better than the long urethane bushes which have a LOT of friction.
good luck
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Martin S.
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« Reply #2 on: May 04, 2021, 14:24:41 pm »

Reading this reminds me of my bj beam and the problems, as well as making stuff. I noticed it was riding hard, especially on the one side. My mechanic buddy took it apart and found the bushing was hella tight and causing that friction you mention with the urethane, although this is a stock Brazil beam. So he made up a tool to ream the bushing to size which alleviated the friction a lot. I do like the idea of replacing with brass bushings similar to a link pin front end.
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Cal Look white 68 Bug with AJ Sims EFI Turbo 2332. 194hp 240tq @ 5500 rpm 3psi boost.
andrewlandon67
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« Reply #3 on: May 05, 2021, 16:24:26 pm »

Reading this reminds me of my bj beam and the problems, as well as making stuff. I noticed it was riding hard, especially on the one side. My mechanic buddy took it apart and found the bushing was hella tight and causing that friction you mention with the urethane, although this is a stock Brazil beam. So he made up a tool to ream the bushing to size which alleviated the friction a lot. I do like the idea of replacing with brass bushings similar to a link pin front end.

Yeah, the urethane stuff seems only good for the sand guys, I'd rather have mine work as close to stock as possible. If I had the time/materials/tools I'd love to try brass someday, but the micarta seems to be the best choice for now.
Logged

14.877 @ 88.85 mph

My car is what it is, maybe not Cal Look per the books, but it's more than most.

"Walking Softly and Carrying a Big Fucking Stick" - Zach G.
Martin S.
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« Reply #4 on: May 07, 2021, 17:59:25 pm »

According to the notes in the listing for the needle bearings which are used on the outer bearing, some aftermarket beams have been offered over the years which use bushings instead.
That sounds like there would be a lot of drag, or a lot of play potentially, compared to bearings. So Andrew, do you know if you have the needle bearings on the outers and what shape they are in?
https://www.cip1.ca/ProductDetails.asp?utm_source=geotargetly_from_com&utm_medium=referral&ProductCode=VWC-311-401-301-C
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Cal Look white 68 Bug with AJ Sims EFI Turbo 2332. 194hp 240tq @ 5500 rpm 3psi boost.
andrewlandon67
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Posts: 517



« Reply #5 on: May 07, 2021, 19:32:53 pm »

According to the notes in the listing for the needle bearings which are used on the outer bearing, some aftermarket beams have been offered over the years which use bushings instead.
That sounds like there would be a lot of drag, or a lot of play potentially, compared to bearings. So Andrew, do you know if you have the needle bearings on the outers and what shape they are in?
https://www.cip1.ca/ProductDetails.asp?utm_source=geotargetly_from_com&utm_medium=referral&ProductCode=VWC-311-401-301-C

Yeah, the outers are definitely needle bearings but I have no idea of what kind of shape they're in. I'm going to play it safe and just put new ones in when I replace the micarta ones. I didn't buy an aftermarket beam, I just found a decent enough used beam and had a local guy narrow it by two inches, and I certainly don't remember putting new bearings in.
Logged

14.877 @ 88.85 mph

My car is what it is, maybe not Cal Look per the books, but it's more than most.

"Walking Softly and Carrying a Big Fucking Stick" - Zach G.
Martin S.
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Posts: 990



« Reply #6 on: May 07, 2021, 20:24:35 pm »

I guess the best test would be to install the arm and it should rotate easily with your fingers, rather than be a friction fit.
Logged

Cal Look white 68 Bug with AJ Sims EFI Turbo 2332. 194hp 240tq @ 5500 rpm 3psi boost.
andrewlandon67
Hero Member
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Posts: 517



« Reply #7 on: May 07, 2021, 22:25:26 pm »

I guess the best test would be to install the arm and it should rotate easily with your fingers, rather than be a friction fit.

Yeah, we'll see how it is once I have the time to pull the damn thing apart. Stupid school, eating up all my good wrenching time.
Logged

14.877 @ 88.85 mph

My car is what it is, maybe not Cal Look per the books, but it's more than most.

"Walking Softly and Carrying a Big Fucking Stick" - Zach G.
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