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Author Topic: The Ragtop Express  (Read 9806 times)
tpb_karl
Jr. Member
**
Posts: 51



« Reply #60 on: March 28, 2025, 07:42:36 am »

Early update this week!

The inner panel fit about as expected, so I'm trying to replace as little as possible.





The rear floor section edge needed replacing, just like on the passenger side.








Then trim the piece to fit, and weld it in place. I struggled with the TIG for some reason, but in the end, it was welded.









Work continues next week. Have a great weekend!
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Twin Peak Boxers
1963 - The Ragtop Express
Instagram: @tpb_karl
Youtube: https://youtube.com/@tpb_karl?si=4N7Yv03mb3n9x9dM
"Make VWs hot again"
tpb_karl
Jr. Member
**
Posts: 51



« Reply #61 on: April 02, 2025, 07:26:27 am »

A small mid-week update showing something other than rust repairs..
The BRMs are in rubber. Decided on Michelin all around. XWX 205/70-15 rear and XZX 145-R15 front.




Howerver they were a bit brown and still had grease from mounting so i used some rubber cleaner and "satin" tire dressing. They look alot better now! The wheels needs a coating to protect them from dirt aswell.






(After / Before)


« Last Edit: April 02, 2025, 07:28:42 am by tpb_karl » Logged

Twin Peak Boxers
1963 - The Ragtop Express
Instagram: @tpb_karl
Youtube: https://youtube.com/@tpb_karl?si=4N7Yv03mb3n9x9dM
"Make VWs hot again"
Steve67
Full Member
***
Posts: 199



« Reply #62 on: April 03, 2025, 13:19:11 pm »

sheet metal work looks very good as always.  :)The Michelin tires are awesome!!
Will be looking ace on the car...
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tpb_karl
Jr. Member
**
Posts: 51



« Reply #63 on: April 04, 2025, 21:57:43 pm »

sheet metal work looks very good as always.  :)The Michelin tires are awesome!!
Will be looking ace on the car...


Thank you Steve! They better considering what they cost  Cheesy

Early update this week again. I’ve finished the reinforcement plate and the body mount.








Then some holes in the fender mounting area that needed fixing.








I pulled out the dent and welded up the hole where someone had used a drywall screw to hold the fender in place...







Next bit was another section of the fender mount and part of the inner fender.





I masked off the area with tape and marked out where the bends would go. After some beading rolling, stretching and English wheeling, the sheet metal started to take shape.







Trimmed the sheet and cut out the happiest hole I’ve ever seen.






Slow and methodical TIG welding, since I can’t reach the outer welds from the inside to straighten the panel.







If I haven’t missed anything, all that’s left of the rust repair is the rear bumper mount section and the apron!  Grin
I’ll take care of those next week. Take care!
Logged

Twin Peak Boxers
1963 - The Ragtop Express
Instagram: @tpb_karl
Youtube: https://youtube.com/@tpb_karl?si=4N7Yv03mb3n9x9dM
"Make VWs hot again"
tpb_karl
Jr. Member
**
Posts: 51



« Reply #64 on: April 13, 2025, 18:24:54 pm »

Time for an update, finally!
I’ve taken care of that last corner and fully freed up the rear apron.




A bit of test fitting the piece..



Also folded up the bottom of the panel..




Cut out and cleaned up the area for the seam



A bit of primer on the backside of the panel, then it was just a matter of welding it in and grinding it down. With a bit of work with a hammer and dolly, of course..





With that done, the apron needed some love before I could call rust repair finished.






With the sun out, I got a bit inspired so the fenders and running boards went back on to the body. Also tossed the cardboard that had been covering the windows. Feels good!







Great feeling! Been thinking a bit about what the next step should be, but I think building the beam will be the next job on the list.
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Twin Peak Boxers
1963 - The Ragtop Express
Instagram: @tpb_karl
Youtube: https://youtube.com/@tpb_karl?si=4N7Yv03mb3n9x9dM
"Make VWs hot again"
richie
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 5702



« Reply #65 on: April 15, 2025, 17:25:51 pm »

If only everyone repaired them to this level, real nice work  Cool

cheers Richie
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Cars are supposed to be driven, not just talked about!!!   


Good parts might be expensive but good advice is priceless Wink
BossHogg76
Sr. Member
****
Posts: 398



« Reply #66 on: April 16, 2025, 21:23:10 pm »

Great work Karl, skills way beyond mine and great reading your progress.
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tpb_karl
Jr. Member
**
Posts: 51



« Reply #67 on: April 21, 2025, 16:24:40 pm »

Thanks for the nice comments guys!  Cheesy


I havent worked on the express this past and i managed to get a man-cold during easter. However that gave me time to finish the editing of the first episode of this project.
Pour a cup of tea or have a beer and sit back and watch six months of rust repairs compressed to 30 minutes  Cheesy

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a3sJ5POhKEw&t

« Last Edit: April 21, 2025, 16:26:30 pm by tpb_karl » Logged

Twin Peak Boxers
1963 - The Ragtop Express
Instagram: @tpb_karl
Youtube: https://youtube.com/@tpb_karl?si=4N7Yv03mb3n9x9dM
"Make VWs hot again"
tpb_karl
Jr. Member
**
Posts: 51



« Reply #68 on: April 27, 2025, 19:52:09 pm »

Time for another update! I was recently given dropped spindles from a TPB member. Thanks Simon!


In order to run dropped spindles (which widen about 12mm) with my BRMs and 145 full-profile tires, I need to narrow the beam. To keep the shock absorbers and not disturb the geometry too much, I chose to shorten by 2". This way, I can still use a sway bar, and the car won’t look like a wheelbarrow.

First step was to tear down the front brakes and disassemble the entire front suspension.







I added 2" on each side of the adjusters and cut the beam.



Before I start welding the beam, I needed to get rid of as much old grease as possible... I combined heat, degreaser, water, and paper towels to remove most of it.



Incredibly boring and time-consuming... But after removing all the grease and going over the front end with a rotating wire brush, most of the rust was gone. I also cut off the snail eyes for the bump stops.



Then I set up the front end with angle iron and C-clamps to get everything reasonably straight.
VERY annoying that the adjusters doesn't have the same diameter as the tubes...
I set the adjusters so I have 1/3 adjustment for raising and 2/3 adjustment for lowering.
So if i want rally-height, that's still an option! (Maybe visit the Cold Balls event some day)


A cut in the old center section used it as a test piece to make sure I could get proper weld penetration.


Tacked in place and ready to fully weld. (Yes, I ground down the welds.)



Now, with the shortened beam, the shock-towers were too close together to fit under the body.
Instead of making new shock towers of my own design, I trimmed the inside of the towers and replaced it with 3mm steel plate.





The mounts was clamped into place on the car, measured to make sure it was centered from the fram head and tacked them on.
I had cleaned them up with a rotating wire brush and dipped them in Evaporust before.
I sprayed the inside of them with a rattle-can while I still had access...



Then fully welded everything. Even the steering damper mount was welded back on —
of course the same distance from the center as the original.
It’s not likely to break loose any time soon...




Now with the narrower towers, I also needed to shorten the bolts for the shock.
Quick work with the angle grinder.


Here it is — masked off for painting.



A little metal paint and a brush and it's good enough.
Not a super-finish on this beam since it was so pitted from rust...



I also bought 10 liters of Evaporust to treat all the bolts and even try dipping the entire brake drums.
I tested by soaking the control arms and steering arm overnight.





The steering arm was incredibly grimy...
But turned out really nice! Especially after a little black paint.





Feels like money well spent.
I'll be soaking the spindles and other components in it too.
That's all for now! Take care!
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Twin Peak Boxers
1963 - The Ragtop Express
Instagram: @tpb_karl
Youtube: https://youtube.com/@tpb_karl?si=4N7Yv03mb3n9x9dM
"Make VWs hot again"
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