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Author Topic: Jesse's '64 - Dynoday  (Read 85158 times)
Rick Meredith
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« Reply #30 on: July 07, 2008, 19:38:41 pm »


What do you guys think? 1914 of 1776?


There's no replacement for displacement!   Grin


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67 Beetle - The Deuce Roadster of Cal Look
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« Reply #31 on: July 08, 2008, 16:32:34 pm »






my 2c awful sound of that muffler Sad it sounds like you would stick a plastick plate to e bicycle wheel frame next to the wheel... Smiley hery sharp noise enoying sound. especially ather 200-300km Smiley
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Aircooled Performance Gear
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Jesse/DVK
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'64 2176cc


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« Reply #32 on: August 03, 2008, 10:12:14 am »

Well I like the sound Smiley

Just got news from the machine shop. My old case is to bad to use Sad, needs line-boring etc. So I have to look for a new case, thinking of getting it out of the USA, which shops are good there?

I'm getting my DPR crank this week Smiley.

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Der Vollgas Kreuzers
airstuff
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« Reply #33 on: August 03, 2008, 19:51:11 pm »

If you plan to order a new case from the USA,I strongly reccomend  Brothers VW Machine shop in Ontario California.

I ordered my case from them for my 2276,and they did the beautifull job sleeving the lifter bores,decking and full-flowing the case.And great prices too.

I think that cases start at $400 + additional machining costs.

Send an e-mail and talk to Jacob or Renato: brothersmachine@hotmail.com

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=454587

http://www.brothersvwmachineshop.com/contact.htm

Great guys and great service.
« Last Edit: August 03, 2008, 19:56:03 pm by cal-look » Logged
Jesse/DVK
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« Reply #34 on: August 03, 2008, 22:30:55 pm »

Thanks I already looked at their site, nice prices. I'm not sure which options I should take for the 1915.

I'm sure on these:

Bore Engine Case to 90.5mm / 94mm Pistons = $45.00
Deck Engine Case = $35.00
Drill / Tap / Plug Oil Galleries = $75.00
Full Flow (Drill and Tap Engine Case) = $30.00

But are these also necessary?

Lower Lifter Bosses = $40.00
Sand Seal Case w/Seal = $35.00
Shuffle Pin Center Main = $85.00
Sleeve Lifter Bores (Silicone Bronze) = $125.00
Sleeve Lifter Bores w/Groove (Silicone Bronze) = $150.00

Thanks!

 
« Last Edit: August 04, 2008, 09:45:09 am by Jesse/DVK » Logged

Der Vollgas Kreuzers
gizago
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« Reply #35 on: August 04, 2008, 12:08:29 pm »

If you are buying a new crank, why not go for a 76mm, or even 78mm, it wont cost much more than a good 69mm. Free cc's Grin
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Sander/DVK
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« Reply #36 on: August 04, 2008, 22:25:32 pm »

But are these also necessary?

Lower Lifter Bosses = $40.00
If you have a OEM case yes, but I dont know if this is neccesery with after market cases.
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Der Vollgas Kreuzers
Airspeed
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« Reply #37 on: August 04, 2008, 22:35:24 pm »

But are these also necessary?

Lower Lifter Bosses = $40.00
If you have a OEM case yes, but I dont know if this is neccesery with after market cases.
You lower the lifter bores when you have a cam with more lift, usually even more so when it still has a decent base circle (ie with smaller strokes the say up to about 78mm depending on rod big end diameter). The work is usually/best done with the lifters and the cam you will use to be present at the machine shop, so they can give you just about enough clearence. Not too much clearence as your lifter should be supported by its bore as far and as much as possible.
Hope you see the picture of this before you  Wink
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« Reply #38 on: August 04, 2008, 22:50:07 pm »

Thanks Walter  Smiley
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Bewitched666
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« Reply #39 on: August 05, 2008, 07:20:16 am »

With Jesse running a stock stroke 69 c/w crank with w120 or w125 cam it is not neccesary to lower the lifter bores even with the bulky stock rods. Cool
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Jesse/DVK
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« Reply #40 on: August 05, 2008, 09:14:41 am »

Thanks guys for your answers, but now I have two different answers Tongue. I'm running a DPR 69mm C/W with CB Perf Uni-Tech HD plus rods with a Engle 120 (or equivalent from Webcam).

Anyone else has good experience with Brothers VW?
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Bewitched666
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« Reply #41 on: August 05, 2008, 09:45:08 am »

Brothers is a machine shop and they are good i heard Cool
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airstuff
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« Reply #42 on: August 05, 2008, 10:00:10 am »

Thanks guys for your answers, but now I have two different answers Tongue. I'm running a DPR 69mm C/W with CB Perf Uni-Tech HD plus rods with a Engle 120 (or equivalent from Webcam).

Anyone else has good experience with Brothers VW?


Go for the 1914cc and don't look back Cool

If you go with an Engle W120,with a good set of ported 40x35.5 heads it should be a nice combo.

If you would like to go with an Engle w-125 I think you should sleeve the lifter to have a peace.

Trust me,they are one if the best machine shops out there,they can do any work you can imagine.Tey also doweled my 82mm crank with 11/32 dowels,balanced it,and the flywheel and pressure plate

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Jesse/DVK
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« Reply #43 on: August 06, 2008, 10:09:39 am »

Thanks for your replies, what about decking the case, is that needed with a new case?
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Der Vollgas Kreuzers
airstuff
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« Reply #44 on: August 06, 2008, 10:50:11 am »

I would do it in either way

It maybe isn't neccesary when bored for 90.5,but when it is bored for 94mm cylinders you only have a very thin cylinder seating area withouth decking
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Jesse/DVK
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« Reply #45 on: September 11, 2008, 19:24:33 pm »

Update:

I got new front tires, 135r15 from toyo, also adjusted the front a little bit lower. I love the stance now.



I also got my crank from DPR, great peace of steel Cheesy.



Also bought some heads from Dokke/DFL, will get them next week. The heads are 041's with 39 x 35.5 valves with Remmele valve springs and some porting done by Remmele. Because of this I will build a 1776. Parts are coming in slowly it's hard as a student Tongue
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Der Vollgas Kreuzers
Neil Davies
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« Reply #46 on: September 11, 2008, 20:16:06 pm »

You could go 1835... Wink
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Jesse/DVK
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« Reply #47 on: September 23, 2008, 19:23:43 pm »

Got my heads last weekend. Really pleased with them Smiley



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Der Vollgas Kreuzers
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« Reply #48 on: September 23, 2008, 20:05:18 pm »

Got my heads last weekend. Really pleased with them Smiley




Get Rid of the Aluminum Spring Retainers there Bad News put some Chrome Moly Ones On
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Der Selten Kafers VW Club.
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« Reply #49 on: September 23, 2008, 22:42:48 pm »

i'm sure he will and put dual springs on it as well  Wink
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Diederick
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67worshipper
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« Reply #50 on: September 23, 2008, 22:47:16 pm »

stance is bang on now jesse Wink
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vw hot rod heaven
Jesse/DVK
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« Reply #51 on: September 24, 2008, 06:58:27 am »

i'm sure he will and put dual springs on it as well  Wink

Nope I will stay with these single springs, keeping the valve train light.

Why should I change the retainers for chro-mo? These retainers are made out of aircraft alu by Remmele. I think they are stronger than 18 dollar chro-mo's from CB?  Huh


@67worshipper, thanks! I'm really pleased with the look now.
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« Reply #52 on: September 24, 2008, 10:14:52 am »

impressive  Wink
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Diederick
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Shubee2 (DSK)
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« Reply #53 on: September 24, 2008, 15:19:12 pm »

i'm sure he will and put dual springs on it as well  Wink

Nope I will stay with these single springs, keeping the valve train light.

Why should I change the retainers for chro-mo? These retainers are made out of aircraft alu by Remmele. I think they are stronger than 18 dollar chro-mo's from CB?  Huh


@67worshipper, thanks! I'm really pleased with the look now.
Aluminum Wears I have seen to Many Valve's Pull threw and Drop A Valve I would use stock ones over aluminum but Recomend Chrome Moly Retainers
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67 Resto Cal Look
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Harry/FDK
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Every Rule Was Made To Break, Even Callook...


« Reply #54 on: September 26, 2008, 22:48:51 pm »

Condolences to your heads.
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Done ? Not Yet.
Sander/DVK
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« Reply #55 on: September 27, 2008, 00:10:20 am »

Strange post. Why?  Huh
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Der Vollgas Kreuzers
Jesse/DVK
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« Reply #56 on: September 27, 2008, 18:40:50 pm »

Condolences to your heads.

Because?
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Der Vollgas Kreuzers
Harry/FDK
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Every Rule Was Made To Break, Even Callook...


« Reply #57 on: September 28, 2008, 16:31:38 pm »

Alu Retainers, pm'd you back. Like Shubee posted, i rather go for stock then that crap. Go titanium, and sleep well. Grin
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Jesse/DVK
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« Reply #58 on: December 08, 2008, 20:02:55 pm »

Ok guys, I'm about to order my clutch setup. Going for a Kennedy Racing Stage 1 but I don't know which disc out should use? Primarily street use.

What's the difference between these?

http://www.vwspeedshop.com/shop/product.php?productid=1033&cat=285&page=1

and

http://www.vwspeedshop.com/shop/product.php?productid=1035&cat=285&page=1

it's for a 1915, K8, IDA.
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Der Vollgas Kreuzers
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« Reply #59 on: December 09, 2008, 13:06:49 pm »

This is all very interesting, Im in the same boat as you, shoe string student lol

Just wondering how much your new case was? As i was gonna use a old 1200 case with not many miles on it for a 2276 or 2.1 project? Huh

cheers
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