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Author Topic: Jesse's '64 - Dynoday  (Read 85155 times)
Diederick/DVK
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« Reply #90 on: April 14, 2009, 12:08:36 pm »

as far as I know most people run -6.
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Diederick
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Jesse/DVK
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'64 2176cc


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« Reply #91 on: April 14, 2009, 12:24:29 pm »

For both fuel and and oil? I'm thinking of a Mitsuba pump (max 4psi) up front under the tank. -> stock fuel line to the engine -> Holley regulator with 2 outlets and a gauge with -6 hoses to the IDA's. Should be fine I guess? And run -8 to the oil filter? -8 hose from Summit has an inside diameter of 0.438 inch which is 11 mm.
« Last Edit: April 14, 2009, 12:30:20 pm by Jesse/DVK » Logged

Der Vollgas Kreuzers
Diederick/DVK
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« Reply #92 on: April 14, 2009, 12:25:06 pm »

nope, oil is -8 and 12mm hose if i'm correct.
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Diederick
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Jesse/DVK
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« Reply #93 on: April 14, 2009, 15:13:38 pm »

Would using -8 also for fuel be a problem?
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Der Vollgas Kreuzers
Jesse/DVK
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« Reply #94 on: April 21, 2009, 13:21:49 pm »

Who can tell me where to take weight on Mahle 94mm A pistons to get the weight 5 grams down?
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Der Vollgas Kreuzers
airstuff
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« Reply #95 on: April 27, 2009, 14:52:42 pm »

have you balanced the pistons?
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Jesse/DVK
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« Reply #96 on: April 27, 2009, 20:29:22 pm »

Yep Smiley. Everything is ready. Today I lubed the IDA's. Checked piston ring gaps. I'm just waiting for my parts to come back from balancing etc. Also ordered a 4qt Berg sump and Pauter pushrod tubes.

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Der Vollgas Kreuzers
Paulus
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« Reply #97 on: April 27, 2009, 20:54:28 pm »

Yep Smiley. Everything is ready. Today I lubed the IDA's. Checked piston ring gaps. I'm just waiting for my parts to come back from balancing etc. Also ordered a 4qt Berg sump and Pauter pushrod tubes.



Yeah.....Almost party time ! Cheesy 
We see the movies if your bug soon in youtube  Grin
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Less is More !
Jesse/DVK
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« Reply #98 on: May 08, 2009, 12:03:48 pm »

Hope this mouse engine is still intresting for you guys  Smiley

Yesterday I went to the Otto Bros is Belgium to pick up my stuff. Everything is balanced and my heads are bored for 94mm and cut for dual springs.




I'm installing the valve springs at the moment. This sunday Diederick wil come over and we will start with the trial assembly of the engine. I will post some pics than.
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Der Vollgas Kreuzers
Felix/DFL
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« Reply #99 on: May 09, 2009, 20:07:19 pm »

Keep us updated  Grin
What rockers are you using? It looks that they are already rusting Huh
Maybe you should dip them in WD 40 for a while...
Greetz!
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Jesse/DVK
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« Reply #100 on: May 16, 2009, 19:43:44 pm »

Those are Bugpack rockers, lying around here made them a bit rusty but they are already cleaned up Smiley. Today I put my crank with rods and camshaft with lifters in the case and put it together. Now I have a problem. When I turn the crank clockwise (looking from the pulley) is stops after a half turn. When I turn it counter clockwise there is no problem at all. Any ideas of you guys? The cam to lifter clearance is 2mm so thats ok.
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Shubee2 (DSK)
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« Reply #101 on: May 16, 2009, 23:05:21 pm »

is the Dist. Drive in the case? some guys put it in  at first and when rotating the motor one way it pushes the drive up and the brass gear binds  it could also be the crank and cam gear, your case could of had a -1 -2 or -3 gear before  turn the crank backwards and see if it spits the cam up out of the cam bearings 
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Der Selten Kafers VW Club.
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Diederick/DVK
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« Reply #102 on: May 16, 2009, 23:22:35 pm »

putting the dist drive in there before the crank is generally the way to do it, right?
we'll have a look tomorrow jesse Wink
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Diederick
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« Reply #103 on: May 16, 2009, 23:33:40 pm »

I took it apart and put it together and now it works fine. Donnow why Tongue  Grin
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« Reply #104 on: May 17, 2009, 03:08:03 am »

I took it apart and put it together and now it works fine. Donnow why Tongue  Grin
it was most likly the dist Drive I always check the play and the shimming before I put the crank in then I take it out I put it in after the shortblock is together I use a a little white grease on the shims and stick a push rod as a guide down the dist. hole and slide the shims down the pushrod then remove the push rod guide and drop in the Dist. Drive then stick in a cre dist so the drive dose not move up when you rotate the engine on the stand when building an HP motor I like to leave it out till last that way you dont get a false  tight spot felling by the drive not being down all the way plu if you force turn the motor you can screw up the brass grear
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Der Selten Kafers VW Club.
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Jesse/DVK
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« Reply #105 on: May 18, 2009, 19:50:21 pm »

Some pics Smiley





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Der Vollgas Kreuzers
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« Reply #106 on: May 21, 2009, 23:25:20 pm »

 Cool looking awesome dude
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peach_
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« Reply #107 on: May 21, 2009, 23:25:48 pm »

oops double post lol
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1966 java green looker- 2276 Street Machine, with standard gear box@ 14.5 (2013), With Pro Street Box @ 13.5 (2014), still more to come!

SAS RENN-WAGENS and proud



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Jesse/DVK
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« Reply #108 on: May 26, 2009, 15:08:46 pm »

I need your expertise guys Smiley.

I'm measuring my pushrod length. Full lift was 13.5mm so half lift is at 6.75mm.




Half lift



Zero lift



Full lift



I think the pushrod lenght is ok. What do you guys think?
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Shubee2 (DSK)
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« Reply #109 on: May 26, 2009, 17:00:19 pm »

Hi Jesse I was just looking at the pictures of your engine and Noticed it looks like #1 Rod is upside Down The tab always faces up on the rod and the tanges for the rod bearings always face down when installing on the crank Please Check it before you go any futher on your motor if you have already checked the deck  and the rod is upside down you will have to recheck your deck  Hope  I caught it in time also check #2 Rod I could not see it good in the Picture  A lot of guys hang the rods on the crank like that if you have all the rods facing one side when installing them when you flip them over two will be upside down Good Luck Shubee Grin Grin
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Der Selten Kafers VW Club.
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Felix/DFL
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« Reply #110 on: May 28, 2009, 07:11:06 am »

Hi Jesse I was just looking at the pictures of your engine and Noticed it looks like #1 Rod is upside Down The tab always faces up on the rod and the tanges for the rod bearings always face down when installing on the crank Please Check it before you go any futher on your motor if you have already checked the deck  and the rod is upside down you will have to recheck your deck  Hope  I caught it in time also check #2 Rod I could not see it good in the Picture  A lot of guys hang the rods on the crank like that if you have all the rods facing one side when installing them when you flip them over two will be upside down Good Luck Shubee Grin Grin

Good trained eye!
Yes it looks as if the mark is downwards on the rod.

About the rocker geometry:
Here is a perfect "how to" about rocker geometry on non orig. style rcockers:
http://www.pauter.com/RockerInst.htm

Nice progress go on and on!
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Type1/DVK
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« Reply #111 on: May 28, 2009, 08:10:51 am »

Tabs up, Tangs down. I had to adjust this at the last moment because i did wrong also  Shocked  If you have rods without the tab's you can always recognize them on the tangs, they always must be down to scrape the oil. Grin
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DDD#8 - 14.74sec @ 1776cc - Member of:  DVK ~ Der Vollgas Kreuzers  - www.ultimatevw.nl - and racing engines
Jesse/DVK
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« Reply #112 on: May 28, 2009, 08:31:03 am »

Thanks Gary, you have been a real help. What a stupid beginners mistake..  Embarrassed

Felix, thanks I will look at that. I think they are all of the correct length now. I'm trying to get my shortblock, maybe longblock together today. Maybe I can make it to Bitbug Smiley.

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Felix/DFL
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« Reply #113 on: May 28, 2009, 11:38:17 am »

Thanks Gary, you have been a real help. What a stupid beginners mistake..  Embarrassed

Felix, thanks I will look at that. I think they are all of the correct length now. I'm trying to get my shortblock, maybe longblock together today. Maybe I can make it to Bitbug Smiley.

Hi Jesse,
hope that you make it to BITBUG. I am sure you will!

Then you can participate at the DFL 402 CAL LOOK Trophy  that will take place there Grin
More infos about DFL 402 in the following days!

Greetings!
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Shubee2 (DSK)
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« Reply #114 on: May 28, 2009, 14:29:16 pm »

Thanks Gary, you have been a real help. What a stupid beginners mistake..  Embarrassed

Felix, thanks I will look at that. I think they are all of the correct length now. I'm trying to get my shortblock, maybe longblock together today. Maybe I can make it to Bitbug Smiley.


LOL Jesse We All Learn from Are Mistakes I am just Glad I noticed it before you got it all together and in the car That's what the Cal Look Lounge is all About Helping each other Out any way we can.. Good Luck and have a Happy VW Day Grin Grin
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Der Selten Kafers VW Club.
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Jesse/DVK
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'64 2176cc


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« Reply #115 on: May 28, 2009, 16:14:21 pm »

Shortblock is together guys Smiley. I just need some tools to get the longblock together.
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Shubee2 (DSK)
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« Reply #116 on: May 28, 2009, 21:27:56 pm »

Shortblock is together guys Smiley. I just need some tools to get the longblock together.
  Cool Congrats Grin Grin Grin
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Der Selten Kafers VW Club.
Founding Member Est: 1976

58 Ragtop Old School Cal Look
66 Cal Look Drag Car
67 Resto Cal Look
67 Chevy II Nova L79
02 Camaro Vert!
04 Corvette Vert!
04 Colorado Pickup
Diederick/DVK
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« Reply #117 on: May 28, 2009, 22:06:26 pm »

just a general question also with regard to my own build;
shouldn't the process from shortblock to final engine take too long before the cam lube drips off??
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Diederick
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Jesse/DVK
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« Reply #118 on: May 31, 2009, 19:10:06 pm »

 Cool

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Der Vollgas Kreuzers
Felix/DFL
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« Reply #119 on: June 01, 2009, 20:01:23 pm »

COOL COOL! Are those orig. DDS tube`s ?  Wink
Go on...Will it be ready for Bitbug?
I hope You and your club mates attend DFL 402! Would be "über" cool!

http://cal-look.no/lounge/index.php/topic,9191.0.html


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