lowering the front... what with antiroll bar???

[GreenTom]

I couldn't foud it any where.
what do yui do with the antiroll bar scraching the road???
I run on dropped CB spindles and lowered/narrowed CB beam with BP antirollbar and it is scraching the ground really badly.

how manny of you guys runn without antirollbar (how does it drive - on the road)
do you have other ways to mount it??

cheers Tom.

[Rennsurfer]

I couldn't imagine NOT having a swaybar on the front beam. Unless you're just going to drive your car in a straight line or drag race it. I throw my cars into too many turns and need one. On my current car, I have a stock width beam, CB 2½" drop spindles, Flat Four BRM wheels, 135x15 tires (till I get 145s), and have no problems with anything regarding the front end scraping the ground or rubbing the bodywork. On my previous car, I had a stock width beam, many different types of wheels, 145x15 tires, and a Select-A-Drop. No problems with that car, either. Both cars (see pics on my sig. line) have/had the factory swaybar.

Do you have a picture of your swaybar? Is it a factory or a bigger aftermarket one? Unless you've got your car extremely low, I'm confused as to why you'd be having that problem.

[Jim Ratto]

When my car was very low in front in the 80's I moved the stock sway bar to the upper trailing arms, with the stock hardware. It fits up in front of beam and is hidden and out of the way.

[Rennsurfer]

When my car was very low in front in the 80's I moved the stock sway bar to the upper trailing arms, with the stock hardware. It fits up in front of beam and is hidden and out of the way.

Very cool idea/concept, Jim... never thought of that. Did it still do it's job or did the performance decrease a little?

[Jim Ratto]

When my car was very low in front in the 80's I moved the stock sway bar to the upper trailing arms, with the stock hardware. It fits up in front of beam and is hidden and out of the way.

Very cool idea/concept, Jim... never thought of that. Did it still do it's job or did the performance decrease a little?

seemed to work.....  my test circuit (Foothill Rd in Sunol CA) said so at least. Never had a skidpad. 
at least it never fell off.

[GreenTom]

It was quite low on the beam. Now when I've put dropped spindles I had to rise the lives of the beam beam really high on the adjusters. 145/65 R15 were way too low and the gapp was awfull
(fresh pix from racing - yes racing in this weter but it was cool - only 1 bug)




I have Bug Pack bar narrowed with urethan "rubbers".

the main thing I think is that I don't have caster shims behind lower tubing of the beam (the stearing box is in wrong angle because of the wrongly made beam) I'll fix it as soon as it's possible.
The worst stuff of that is the thing I will have to say bye bye to 145/65. I hope 145/80 wont be so low
Will I fit the aftermarket bar on the upper trailing arms Jim?
I've got has shocks on the front but it's still very soft... (before on BP short shocks it was so stiff that I lost all balljoints )

[Jim Ratto]

I am not sure about the 19mm bar on the upper arms... I should see if it fits I have one buried in my garage somewhere.
It would be cool if it did.

[John Rayburn]

When my car was very low in front in the 80's I moved the stock sway bar to the upper trailing arms, with the stock hardware. It fits up in front of beam and is hidden and out of the way.

                                                          My friend Jeff Marshall did that using a 3/4 inch swaybar on his ultra low slalom car from Bug In days. Worked great. This is the same guy that invented the adjustable spring plates. Noticed a couple of guys under his car in the pits one day. They were from sway away.  Not long after, sway away introduced adjustable spring plates to the world.

[javabug]

I don't run a sway bar on the front of my car right now.  Drop spindles, S-A-W adjusters, old oil shocks, and 145s.  Rides fine, handles fine, albeit a little extra body lean probably.

I'm a little skeptical about making the front stiffer than the rear.

[Bewitched666]

I took off mine and car still handles great even on the highway at 80mph

[GreenTom]

Thanx for advices ,
As always
the manny guys the menny options but its good everyone is trying something else...

I'll try to fit the bar on the upper arms next week I'll let You know what happened. (I've seen a picture of a car, that had it done, here somewhere - I was looking for it all yesterday evening)

and the question about the small bum on the front beam that locate the staering box in propper position (angle). I know that UK guys don't bother about it when moving box to left side, how does it fit withut that "bump", does it move or something? Have to repair that cuz the stearing shaft is bending the stearing cluch which makes the stearing wheel working strange (but very smoth ).

I'll try to do some pix whille doing that.

[alex d]

I run one of those bars for lowered cars, I sits in line with the lower tube approx., I don't know if they make them for narrowed beams.
As for the steering box tabs they are always in the wrong position in the puma beams, I modify the notch in bracket that holds the box so it's at the correct angle, also be sure you don't put it upside down (thats the position for KGs)

[GreenTom]

I run one of those bars for lowered cars, I sits in line with the lower tube approx., I don't know if they make them for narrowed beams.
As for the steering box tabs they are always in the wrong position in the puma beams, I modify the notch in bracket that holds the box so it's at the correct angle, also be sure you don't put it upside down (thats the position for KGs)

I'll remember about that stearing box.

I've got one for narrowed and lowered beam (Paul has them in the kits in www.VWSPEEDSHOP.com - beam, leaves, tie rods with ends, antirollbar with urethan "rubbers" all narrowed with adjusters).

So u sugest to modyfie only the stearing box section instead gringing off the "bump" on the beam?

[Shubee2 (DSK)]

Thanx for advices ,
As always
the manny guys the menny options but its good everyone is trying something else...

I'll try to fit the bar on the upper arms next week I'll let You know what happened. (I've seen a picture of a car, that had it done, here somewhere - I was looking for it all yesterday evening)

and the question about the small bum on the front beam that locate the staering box in propper position (angle). I know that UK guys don't bother about it when moving box to left side, how does it fit withut that "bump", does it move or something? Have to repair that cuz the stearing shaft is bending the stearing cluch which makes the stearing wheel working strange (but very smoth ).

I'll try to do some pix whille doing that.

The Best way to fix the Box Angle is Grind a new notch in the lower Steering Box Clamp Do not remove the Tab on the beam  because if you ever hit anything the Box can Rotate on the beam without the tab being there..

[GreenTom]

Thanx for advices ,
As always
the manny guys the menny options but its good everyone is trying something else...

I'll try to fit the bar on the upper arms next week I'll let You know what happened. (I've seen a picture of a car, that had it done, here somewhere - I was looking for it all yesterday evening)

and the question about the small bum on the front beam that locate the staering box in propper position (angle). I know that UK guys don't bother about it when moving box to left side, how does it fit withut that "bump", does it move or something? Have to repair that cuz the stearing shaft is bending the stearing cluch which makes the stearing wheel working strange (but very smoth ).

I'll try to do some pix whille doing that.

The Best way to fix the Box Angle is Grind a new notch in the lower Steering Box Clamp Do not remove the Tab on the beam  because if you ever hit anything the Box can Rotate on the beam without the tab being there..

ok I'll do that. seams quite simple just have to runn out of gas (just came back from patrol station