Jon
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Hero Member
Posts: 3214
12,3@174km/t at Gardermoen 2008
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« on: March 20, 2006, 09:49:17 am » |
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I have done the measuring and clearancing... now the cleaning awaits... Before I clean it, are there any tricks I can do to it? Like smoothing out any sharp edges or similar? And what has the best effect when cleaning it?
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SOB/RFH
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Posts: 329
Have fun!!
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« Reply #1 on: March 20, 2006, 19:08:17 pm » |
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Port the holes bellow the cylinders, all sharp corners should be broken with a radius.....polish the inside wherever you can get to it.......fitting of the bearings and oilpump compared to the oilholes in the case is most importent!!! Other then that....paint in in wrinkle finish for the perfect Empi look!! Happiness is a Hot VW!!
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Jon
Administrator
Hero Member
Posts: 3214
12,3@174km/t at Gardermoen 2008
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« Reply #2 on: March 20, 2006, 19:47:32 pm » |
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Polish it.. ok... will do... porting of the holes... to allow the oil to faster reach the sump? I'm opening up the galleys to... easyer and safer cleaning.
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Roman
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« Reply #3 on: March 20, 2006, 21:04:37 pm » |
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I guess what SOB means is case porting. When the piston moves down in the cylinder the air below it will be pushed back in the case. You have the same air flow under the piston as above!! The case porting frees horsepower and lessens the case pressure. Here is an example: I have some more mods in my engine: Oiling slot in the lifter holes and a bypassed 1:st oil relief. These were some tricks done by JPM when he did the mods for the flanged crank.
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SOB/RFH
Sr. Member
Posts: 329
Have fun!!
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« Reply #4 on: March 20, 2006, 21:38:49 pm » |
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Porting the case like the photo shows i mandatory in my non compromise book!. The inside of the piston moves as mouch air as the outside. Also think about the volume of the engine case.......I the engine gets bigger or revs higher it transports more air....If air is trapped you will have leaks from all over the engine and what is worse....it robbs power. So enlarging the case (by using an extra sump or dry sump) and makin the transportation of air easier is free horspower!! Happiness is a Hot VW!!
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Jon
Administrator
Hero Member
Posts: 3214
12,3@174km/t at Gardermoen 2008
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« Reply #5 on: March 20, 2006, 23:03:53 pm » |
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Ohh, I see, this is exactly the stuff I was looking for... and what a great picture... self-explanatory... One the same thought, my "splash-plate" will be left out of this engine case...
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Roman
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« Reply #6 on: March 23, 2006, 21:36:30 pm » |
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So here are some photos of the tricks that I promised. *Oil groove in the lifter holes to increase oiling all around the lifter. *Bypassed 1:st oil reilef valve for more consistant oil pressure.
Work done by JPM.
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Roman
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« Reply #7 on: March 23, 2006, 21:37:10 pm » |
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more...
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Jon
Administrator
Hero Member
Posts: 3214
12,3@174km/t at Gardermoen 2008
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« Reply #8 on: March 24, 2006, 10:30:21 am » |
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Since I don't have the oilcooler in the fan housing I don't use the 1:st oil reilef valve... I'm going for JPM solution with the oil return... doesent seem like there are anything special in that solution? Does anyone know what kind of threads that hole has?
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pupjoint
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« Reply #9 on: July 14, 2011, 05:12:09 am » |
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correct me if i am wrong,
1. from the pics above, the setup was made to run without any doghouse oil cooler or any cooler in the shroud.
2. the pressure relief piston that control the oil to the oil cooler is now a return line for oil to come in?
so the oil goes from the pump, to oil filter, oil cooler and back into the block via the oil relief hole?
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Taylor
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« Reply #11 on: July 14, 2011, 09:51:33 am » |
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Here is a good place to start http://cal-look.no/lounge/index.php/topic,8007.0.htmlDon't under estimate a well sorted stock oil system. But I did recently build a street motor with an external oil bypass and the CSP oil inlet like the one above and it worked great. Better than stock? who knows before I tear it down but I does work well.
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« Last Edit: July 14, 2011, 09:56:14 am by Taylor »
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