fahrvergnugen
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« Reply #600 on: April 27, 2013, 21:06:29 pm » |
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Nice work dude Let me know when youre done. Then we will race . Gr henri
Thanks Hen. what's your progress, don't see a lot of updates lately.
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fahrvergnugen
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« Reply #601 on: April 29, 2013, 19:27:08 pm » |
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Had a few hours Oval time today Hood release welded again. All the steering brackets etc. removed and tried the R&P steering. It seems that there is to little space to mount the steering in the back of the struts, so I switched Left and Right and now I will be searching for an English R&P. Also tried some wheels, When I am sure that they are perfectly aligned, I start the def. welds. Paul.
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Jon
Administrator
Hero Member
Posts: 3214
12,3@174km/t at Gardermoen 2008
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« Reply #602 on: April 29, 2013, 20:05:09 pm » |
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Spindles isn't interchangable, you have now inverted the ackerman geometry. The steering arm of the spindle should point in the direction off the diff in the rear to have the ackerman working. Like they are on the 911 or the bug. But this also means that the spindles of a car with front mounted rack will have steering arms pointing OUT, yours are now pointing IN. SOB once told a story about a dragracer (not a bug) who didn't get half way down the strip due to this... flipped ackerman/ front suspension.
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fahrvergnugen
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« Reply #603 on: April 29, 2013, 20:48:02 pm » |
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Spindles isn't interchangable, you have now inverted the ackerman geometry. The steering arm of the spindle should point in the direction off the diff in the rear to have the ackerman working. Like they are on the 911 or the bug. But this also means that the spindles of a car with front mounted rack will have steering arms pointing OUT, yours are now pointing IN. SOB once told a story about a dragracer (not a bug) who didn't get half way down the strip due to this... flipped ackerman/ front suspension.
Hi Jon, I have searched about this. A simple approximation to perfect Ackermann steering geometry may be generated by moving the steering pivot points inward so as to lie on a line drawn between the steering kingpins and the centre of the rear axle. When the steering is in front of the struts, the point where those lines will cross (normally at the rear axel) has to be the same distance in front of the car as the distance from the rear axel to the spindle. Paul.
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Jon
Administrator
Hero Member
Posts: 3214
12,3@174km/t at Gardermoen 2008
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« Reply #604 on: April 29, 2013, 21:03:50 pm » |
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I knew you had looked into this. This is the point more clearly.
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Andy Sykes
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« Reply #605 on: April 29, 2013, 21:08:02 pm » |
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Cool I'm going to try that tmw
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I love the haters they make me famous.
im building this not just putting parts together, they are two totally different things
Your only here once turn it up to 11
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fahrvergnugen
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« Reply #606 on: April 29, 2013, 21:36:32 pm » |
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I knew you had looked into this. This is the point more clearly. Hi Jon, I know this and I have bin thinking about bending the rods, but then I saw this drawing on a rodders forum. Now i am a little confused
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Jon
Administrator
Hero Member
Posts: 3214
12,3@174km/t at Gardermoen 2008
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« Reply #607 on: April 29, 2013, 22:01:32 pm » |
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That drawing you found is truly confusing, never seen anything like it before. I choose to trust the books on this one ;-)
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Grumpy old men have signatures like this.
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fahrvergnugen
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« Reply #608 on: April 30, 2013, 12:41:32 pm » |
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That drawing you found is truly confusing, never seen anything like it before. I choose to trust the books on this one ;-)
I'll look in to it. I think I am gonna make a miniature and do some tests.
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fahrvergnugen
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« Reply #609 on: May 10, 2013, 18:50:30 pm » |
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After more searching and reading about the ackermaan geometry, I decided to change the angle of the steering rods. R&P mounted. To avoid bumpsteer, the steering rod's should be parallel to the A-arm. After lowering the steering rack by 1,5cm, the rods are parallel and bumpsteer Will be minimal. Tomorrow I will do some tests with a wheel mounted, hopefully I got it right. Paul.
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« Last Edit: May 10, 2013, 21:08:45 pm by fahrvergnugen »
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tikimadness
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« Reply #610 on: May 10, 2013, 20:28:30 pm » |
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Nope, right is without a W Michael
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member of team YAC ; the guys who write history.
GASSER GARAGE a few friends creating history.
NIDGAFWYT
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fahrvergnugen
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« Reply #611 on: May 10, 2013, 21:09:28 pm » |
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Nope, right is without a W Michael Oohps
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fahrvergnugen
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« Reply #612 on: May 11, 2013, 20:06:12 pm » |
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trail fitted my own wheels today. Enough clearance everywhere. The track fuchs are sitting nice but the ET value of the street wheels is bad
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« Last Edit: May 11, 2013, 20:07:54 pm by fahrvergnugen »
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kev d
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« Reply #613 on: May 14, 2013, 23:32:07 pm » |
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It'd be a pity if those road wheels didnt work out for you but I'm sure they would work ok on my new oval.. Is that the steering / suspension all worked out now? Cheers Kev
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Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body , but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting "Holy shit ... what a ride"
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fahrvergnugen
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« Reply #614 on: May 15, 2013, 12:53:17 pm » |
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It'd be a pity if those road wheels didnt work out for you but I'm sure they would work ok on my new oval.. Is that the steering / suspension all worked out now? Cheers Kev Whahaha, if they fit an English oval it most definite must fit on a "normal"oval as well. Steering/front suspension is ready so far, when the rearwheel are on (ready) I can use my alignment tool and make the final welds. Cheers, Paul.
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fahrvergnugen
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« Reply #615 on: May 15, 2013, 13:22:51 pm » |
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Now the front is (almost) ready, I started on the (new) gearbox mount. (the enginelid has to be closed) I think I have to move the gearbox foreward. Paul.
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kev d
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« Reply #616 on: May 15, 2013, 16:52:09 pm » |
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Whahaha, if they fit an English oval it most definite must fit on a "normal"oval as well. Steering/front suspension is ready so far, when the rearwheel are on (ready) I can use my alignment tool and make the final welds. Cheers, Paul. [/quote] Can't help with "English oval" advice as I'm Scottish & the cars from California.. Keep the pics coming! Cheers Kev
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Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body , but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting "Holy shit ... what a ride"
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fahrvergnugen
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« Reply #617 on: May 15, 2013, 21:27:12 pm » |
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Can't help with "English oval" advice as I'm Scottish & the cars from California.. Keep the pics coming! Cheers Kev OK, a real Callooker I will keep on spamming, Don't worry how's your car coming along? Paul.
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kev d
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« Reply #618 on: May 16, 2013, 16:23:06 pm » |
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Not touched my car for months now as I'm out of the country So I bought another Hopefully I'll get back to it soon! Cheers Kev
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Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body , but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting "Holy shit ... what a ride"
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fahrvergnugen
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« Reply #619 on: May 16, 2013, 21:24:23 pm » |
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Not touched my car for months now as I'm out of the country So I bought another Hopefully I'll get back to it soon! Cheers Kev Buying another is killing for your project, trust me I know
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fahrvergnugen
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« Reply #620 on: May 18, 2013, 12:09:45 pm » |
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Due to the fact that I have to use X-joints (don't know what they're called) in the steering, the steering column had to have an extra bearing. So I made a bracket, shortend the column and mounted the bearing. I am pretty pleased with it. Paul.
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« Last Edit: May 18, 2013, 12:13:06 pm by fahrvergnugen »
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Andy Sykes
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« Reply #621 on: May 18, 2013, 12:24:02 pm » |
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Cool I like your bearing idea
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I love the haters they make me famous.
im building this not just putting parts together, they are two totally different things
Your only here once turn it up to 11
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fahrvergnugen
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« Reply #622 on: May 18, 2013, 20:29:21 pm » |
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Cool I like your bearing idea Thanx Andy. It's an empi bearing, for dune buggy's.
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fahrvergnugen
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« Reply #623 on: May 26, 2013, 14:20:16 pm » |
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I didn't like the way the gearbox was hanging (i did this 2jrs ago) so it was time for "plan B". "Plan B" is mounting the gearbox higher, further inwards and solid. Back mount are ready, now it is time to do the front. Paul.
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Jon
Administrator
Hero Member
Posts: 3214
12,3@174km/t at Gardermoen 2008
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« Reply #625 on: June 06, 2013, 10:59:54 am » |
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Why dont you save a few kilos and skip the lower frame horns? A top mount is much easier to triangulate also. And think about how service friendly it becomes ;-) And thanks for this GREAT thread!
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Grumpy old men have signatures like this.
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fahrvergnugen
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« Reply #626 on: June 06, 2013, 21:27:38 pm » |
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Why dont you save a few kilos and skip the lower frame horns? A top mount is much easier to triangulate also. And think about how service friendly it becomes ;-) And thanks for this GREAT thread!
Hi John, These pipes are thinner as the rest of the cage, I need them preventing the gearbox mount moving forward and backward. The cage will be attached on the top of the gearboxmount. As for the friendly service; I'll service it my self and I am very friendly The gearbox mount is attached as original, so it is completely removeable by unscrewing the 2 big bolts. And you're welcome, always good to here people like my work. Paul.
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« Last Edit: June 06, 2013, 21:32:18 pm by fahrvergnugen »
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fahrvergnugen
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« Reply #627 on: June 08, 2013, 21:15:30 pm » |
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The frame-horn replacements are ready, when the body goes of I will make the def. welds. I widened the gearbox mount, this will make it stronger and improve the looks of the roll cage. Paul.
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fahrvergnugen
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« Reply #628 on: June 08, 2013, 21:20:57 pm » |
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Also made a start on the cage today. I want to be able to use the backseat. this is my try of a rollcage with a backseat. Paul.
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fahrvergnugen
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« Reply #629 on: June 12, 2013, 13:19:49 pm » |
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The new (used) coilovers where in. I just had to try. This needs some mods. small cage steps. The cage will be welded to the body, this way it can be separated from the pan. Paul.
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