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Author Topic: Restoring a License Plate Frame.  (Read 5036 times)
Harry/FDK
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Posts: 3613


Every Rule Was Made To Break, Even Callook...


« on: November 23, 2008, 22:40:41 pm »

As you can see, the previous owner drilled 2 extra holes through the bottom part of the frame wich came
with my KG. Is there a way to close these holes up ? Tig ? I think these frames carry a lot of zinc in
the aluminum. Any thoughts pls.
(I think i'm not the only one with this problem).

Thanks,
Harry
« Last Edit: November 23, 2008, 22:47:14 pm by FDK/Hurry » Logged

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Neil Davies
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Posts: 3438



« Reply #1 on: November 24, 2008, 09:39:57 am »

I'd be interested to know a bit more about this too - I've got a Don Burns one with a piece broken out of it, and my Cotton Goff VW Porsche one has a crack too.
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2007cc, 48IDFs, street car. 14.45@93 on pump fuel, treads, muffler and fanbelt. October 2017!
Zach Gomulka
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Posts: 6991


Don't piss down my back and tell me it's raining.


« Reply #2 on: November 24, 2008, 18:16:55 pm »

I'd be willing to bet they are pot metal... tricky to weld :/
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Harry/FDK
Hero Member
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Posts: 3613


Every Rule Was Made To Break, Even Callook...


« Reply #3 on: November 24, 2008, 18:32:08 pm »

I'd be willing to bet they are pot metal... tricky to weld :/

What do you mean Zach ? Just alot of alu, mangane, zinc and all that crap mixed up ?
« Last Edit: November 24, 2008, 18:52:58 pm by FDK/Hurry » Logged

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Zach Gomulka
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« Reply #4 on: November 24, 2008, 20:49:36 pm »

I'd be willing to bet they are pot metal... tricky to weld :/

What do you mean Zach ? Just alot of alu, mangane, zinc and all that crap mixed up ?

Pretty much...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pot_metal
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Harry/FDK
Hero Member
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Posts: 3613


Every Rule Was Made To Break, Even Callook...


« Reply #5 on: November 24, 2008, 20:55:57 pm »

Let's forget it then. It's gonna be a epoxy project. Roll Eyes Sad
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simon uk
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Posts: 412


« Reply #6 on: November 24, 2008, 22:31:22 pm »

hi guys, I had a friendly aero engineer have a go at welding one of my old ones up, and it just burned straight through. The metal is too thin, as you say. Do you think that solder would be too much as well?
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SlingShot
Hero Member
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Posts: 600



« Reply #7 on: November 25, 2008, 06:55:02 am »

Let's forget it then. It's gonna be a epoxy project. Roll Eyes Sad

Thats your best bet, I use some stuff thats easier to use than JB weld. I forget the name off hand, I will try to get it for you.
Also there is a place in California that restores frames, Rich Kimball did a blurp about them in hot vw's not to long ago.
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SlingShot
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Posts: 600



« Reply #8 on: November 26, 2008, 05:40:52 am »

Let's forget it then. It's gonna be a epoxy project. Roll Eyes Sad

Thats your best bet, I use some stuff thats easier to use than JB weld. I forget the name off hand, I will try to get it for you.


"Quick Steel" is the name of the stuff, you can form it before it hardens. Good Luck Wink
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Harry/FDK
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Every Rule Was Made To Break, Even Callook...


« Reply #9 on: November 28, 2008, 17:32:43 pm »

Thanks Slingshot. I'm sure i will find something similar here in Europe.
Jusrt another option i was thinking about, if the frame is not broken.. Carefully glassbead the back side, mask off unwanted holes,then fill the (hollow=perfect) backside with polyester resin. Just thinking.
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Harry/FDK
Hero Member
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Posts: 3613


Every Rule Was Made To Break, Even Callook...


« Reply #10 on: November 28, 2008, 18:56:12 pm »

Also,and that will be the stuff that i'm going to use: Omni-Plus. I repaired some Jap motorcycle engine cases in the past with this stuff.

Its a resin you mix up with either aluminum powder/hardener or steel powder/hardener.
It stays liquid for quite some time (so do youre taping really well !) and you shouldn't
get it on your hands !
Once it's cured you can manicure the part and the finish will look great.
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