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Author Topic: Trasaxle recomendations  (Read 1330 times)
Dick Mitchell
Full Member
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Posts: 109



« on: December 06, 2008, 10:34:47 am »

So I'm kicking around the idea of getting a new trans and really don't know what to get.  A berg-5 is out of the budged so a beefed-up 4-speed is what I'll need.  I want something that will complement the motor, but not something that's going to make highway driving a pain.  A taller forth IS NOT out of the question, but I've never really heard any good feedback on a "freeway flyer" setup.   But I do plan on putting a fair amount of highway mile on the car in the future.

Here's the specs:

1956 bug, (full interior) 15" fuch's with 205/65/15 out back

-2165cc

-044 heads with 42 x 37.5 (ported by A.J. Sims)

-2246 CB/Eagle cam = Adv. Duration 314° / Dur. @ .050" 260° / Lift @ cam .411" / Lift w/1.1:1 Rocker Arms .452"

-Weber IDA's with 37mm vents

-A-1 sidewinder system = 1-5/8

I don't know what R/P to go with (4:12 or 3.88)  I want something strong that will hold up to the occasional hard launch, hard 1st to 2nd gear shifts and maybe even some juvenile burnouts from time to time.   I've babied the last two motors I've had mainly out of fear of breaking my relatively stock 4:12 tranny. 

Any suggestions regarding set ups, ratio's, as well as good shops would be greatly appreciated.


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Bruce
Hero Member
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Posts: 1417


« Reply #1 on: December 06, 2008, 20:42:58 pm »

Slicks?

My preference for a street car with under 200hp is to use a 4.12 R&P.  Then use all stock gears.  If you want better highway cruising, sub in a Bus .82.
The stock gears I like to use are from a 73 and later German made gearbox.
9 tooth 3.78 first
2.06
1.26
.89 (or .82)
Keep the late German splined 3-4 shift hub attachment, and use stock Bus 002 coarse tooth gears.
Put it all in a 71 or later trans case with a Superdiff.  But not just any superdiff.  The ones everyone uses are the weak one with the early 11/17 tooth gears.  Get one machined for late 10/15 gears.  I think ERCO has them.  It will cost you a bit more for the diff and gears, but well worth it, IMO.  You can offset this cost by dropping the aftermarket side cover.  Not needed in this geabox.
SAW axles.
You'll need a chromoly pinion nut.
If your core needs any bearings replaced, I recommend you specify new German FAGs instead of China bearings.
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