MSE Shifter rods

[Woodentop]

Has anyone got any opinions regarding material used in the 2 main shifter rods with the MSE Shifter, the recommended material is CroMo for 1st-2nd rod and Ali for 3rd-4th. The reason behind the CroMo rod is apparantly due to rod deflection.
Having just intaled the shifter, i realised that when shifting to 2nd, the actual shifter rod is in "extension" and not "compression", i cant see how the rod could deflect. In exageration,the rod is being stretched, it seems more logical to instal the CroMo rod on 3rd where the rod is in compression and could suffer from deflection but maybe someone may have some idea's i hadnt thought of

My first post on here guys but i have to say "what a cool site this is"    

[Neil Davies]

Hi Paul, welcome to the site! I've no idea about the rods, but there's bound to be someone on here who'll know! Johnny Grigg is fitting a vertigate shifter at the moment I think - might be worth speaking to him?

[Prowagen]

Hi Paul, welcome to the lounge, long time no see, looking forward to seeing you back on track.

Regards,
Rob.

[Woodentop]

Hi Guys, thanks for your support, there's some really great people on here, i have to say that i'm like a "coiled spring" for 2009

Spoke to Peter Cog and Martin Von Taylor and they both reckon that in theory 1st-2nd rod should'nt be a problem with ali but am i missing something?
I'll try and call Bill @ MSE and ask his experiences

[ESH]

... Spoke to Peter Cog and Martin Von Taylor and they both reckon that in theory 1st-2nd rod should'nt be a problem ...

... i'm like a "coiled spring" for 2009 ...

I guess you'll soon find out if it's a problem or not then. Good to see you on here and of course looking forward to seeing you out on track next year.

 

[Jonny Grigg]

Johnny Grigg is fitting a vertigate shifter at the moment I think - might be worth speaking to him?

I am a bit behind Paul in terms of progress with the V-Gate installation.... as a matter of fact Paul very kindly supplied me with the materials for my rods. Got them threaded up and ready to go now so we shall see how we get on this weekend. My install is slightly different to Paul's as he has put the rods in the tunnel. I have extended my mounts so the shifter sits above the tunnel with the intention of putting a 'set' in the rods to hook them up to the trans. We'll see if it works out- it should do in theory! I'll take some photos when I have done it all. 

How's your thumb Paul? 

[Woodentop]

Hi Matt,
Thanks for the support buddy, the car is starting to look like a car again, its booked into Jim Smiths early jan to have cage upgrages etc and over to Simon's early Feb

Hi Griggsy,
Glad you are moving on, you are making progress much faster than i did, i should have the shifter about complete this weekend (the thumb is progressing slowly, got about 10% movement back)

Spoke to Bill at MSE and he reckons i should talk to Ronaldo Luminus

[Martin]

How do Woodenspunker!  Nice to see you on here, i think you'll like it.

Just changing all my rods over to molly, as i feel its just better! look inside all the fast v8 stuff running lenco's ect, they run Molly rods and there only about a foot long. so our 3- 4 foot long shifter rods are going to tend to flex more.


anyways, back to the porn.


Martin.

[Bernard Newbury]

Hi Paul I have run thick wall ally tube that you supplied on all the rods for the past 2 years without problems. Bernie

[Jonny Grigg]

I could really use some advice with my MSE installation.

Attached are some photos I took this evening- apologies for the orientation, but I ran out of patience with Photobucket  so never managed to rotate them, however hopefully this won't detract from the point....

Basically I have mounted my shifter where it feels most comfortable for me, and have modified the mounts accordingly:







The trans has a 1" RLR raise kit, which puts the shift levers bang in line with the tunnel:



Basically as I see it I have two choices. The first is to leave the rods straight and angle them from the bottom of the shifter to the trans. There seems to be loads of adjustment in terms of limit stops and a choice of 3 pivot points on each shifter arm to hook the rod to so I am not sure it is an issue.

The second choice is to put a bend in the rod near to the tunnel and angle onto the box- the biggest advantage here is that is lessens the amount of material I think I need to chop out of the tunnel.

My main questions are:

1. which pivot mounting point is the one to use under the shifter- there is a choice of 3 for each selector lever
2. Has anyone mounted the rods at an angle, or is the principle to keep the rose joints on the same horizontal plane? I personally can't see it makes a difference if the angle is shallow...... and looking at Muffler Mike's website he has a real steep angle on his JCL shifter.

My other concern is that the trans seems to be stuck in first gear. It was in neutral when I got it and the 3-4 lever moved fine. I then selected 1st by pushing the 1-2 rod in and now I can't get it back into neutral- at least I have tried only by bolting the selector rod to it and pulling it. It is usually a pain in the arse or do I have a problem on  my hands....... 

I guess it is getting late and frustration has set in, but some help would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Jonny. 

[Jonny Grigg]

ps. Sorry Paul for hijacking your thread 

[Martin]

Morning Jonny,

My shifter rods are in the hole's closest to the fulcrum of the shifter, This is the place to have them (I’m told).

As for your rods, if you bend them, it’s going to be hard getting the right amount of adjustment. I’ve had to 'fine tune' mine a lot to get it shifting nice and smooth. If there bent then you can’t just give the rods a tweak, if you know what I mean. Thinking out loud you could always put an adjustable section in the middle comprising of LH and RH threads.

I can’t see a problem at all with having the rods at an angle, the only thing it might do is wear the bushing in the nose cone, but it’s not like your driving it every day.
If I was you I’d move the shifter higher to get a clear shot at the nosecone.
Just my morning thought before i get off to the Pub!


Take care

Martin.

[Woodentop]

Hi Jonny,

Know exactly where you're coming from and feel for you buddy, i realised that with the shifter above the tunnel it was "Hobsons Choice" either bend the rods or cut the tunnel and come in at a steepish angle, they both give 2 equal dissadvantages: For me, i would choose to keep the rods straight but thats only my thought.

i had a ring round the other OFF's using them and "middle" position was slightly more popular although i believe top is recommended.

You could try putting an axle in and turning the box over slightly,(sorry if you've already tried this)

Noticed on your nose cone that you've put the screw for 1-2 on the other side, not a bad idea, i kept mine on the side with the flat but filed the head to a hexagon so i could use a 12mm spanner rather than an allen key

I like your work buddy, looks like you are doing a really nice job, i'll try and post a couple of pictures of my "in the tunnel" setup tonight if i can get the camera to work

Keep up the good work!

Woodentop

[Mike Lawless]

Very nice Jonny!

Just an observation on your shift mount. I've noticed that most guys shift mounts are really stout. Depending on how "robust" you are with shifting, it looks a little "flexy." Perhaps some cross gussetting? Maybe the plates are thicker than they look in the photos.

[Jonny Grigg]

Very nice Jonny!

Just an observation on your shift mount. I've noticed that most guys shift mounts are really stout. Depending on how "robust" you are with shifting, it looks a little "flexy." Perhaps some cross gussetting? Maybe the plates are thicker than they look in the photos.

Hi Mike,

You are right- they do flex slightly, but nothing too serious once it is all bolted up tight. They are made from 3mm steel plate, but once I have the rods located I intend to weld a bracket perpendicular to the RH mount and shape it to the tunnel profile- hopefully this should prevent any significant flexing- especially when I tig the mounts onto the tunnel.

Paul, Martin- thanks for the advice. I have gone with straight rods at a slight angle as I take the point about fine adjustment using the RH and LH threads on the rose joints. I got half-way through doing the reverse rod tonight using a bit of schoolboy pythagoras and trig to work out where to make the slot along the tunnel...... I'm getting there now 

J.