48 IDA fuel inlet fittings - how and where ?

[Rasser]

I am trying to find a good fuel inlet system for my 48´s.
I would like to run a stainless hardline to a tee, and from there a stainless tube to each carb. I have been looking at summit racing, but I can´t find the proper fittings for the connection between the carb and flared end of the stainless tube. It doesn´t matter if the fitting is a banjo fitting for the side of the carb, or an ordinary fitting for the top of the carb, since im not running any airfilters.
I just wan´t to be able to run a safe, good looking and easy to dismantle fuel inlet pipe/fitting, and I would still like the classic look, so I am trying to avoid the red/blue AN fittings (black is OK)

Anyone that knows what will fit and where I can get it ?

Thanks
Rasmus

[louisb]

How about these:

http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=1762

--louis

[Rasser]

How about these:

http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=1762

--louis

They are great items, but my problem is getting from there to 5/16" stainless steel HARDline (or 3/8")... anyone know where I can get the flare fittings i need for this ?

I have allready found the stainless hardline and the flarefittings for installing on the hardline, but can´t figure out how to get from there to the carb.....

[Rasser]

It looks like I need a fitting that has "16x1,5mm (male)" on one side and on the other side it has to accept "1/2-20" Male inverted flare"

Or I will have to go 16x1.5mm -> AN 6 -> AN tube end (3/8")



Thanks
Rasmus

[Jim Ratto]

I think Eric, the guy that posts as HotrodVW can probably help you.
Isn't the thread going into a 48IDA 12mm x 1.5 though?

[Rasser]

I think Eric, the guy that posts as HotrodVW can probably help you.
Isn't the thread going into a 48IDA 12mm x 1.5 though?

As far as I can figure out (measure) the one on the side uses 12x1.5mm and the top one uses 16x1.5mm.
But there isn´t much room on the side of the carb, so you have to use a banjo fitting here - and the choices here seem to be limited. That´s why i was hoping to find a good way to connect to the top 16x1.5mm and then make a 90degree bend and go into the stainless tube from there.

If Eric doesn´t find this thread, I will try to contact him -
thanks.

[Jim Ratto]

I think Eric, the guy that posts as HotrodVW can probably help you.
Isn't the thread going into a 48IDA 12mm x 1.5 though?

As far as I can figure out (measure) the one on the side uses 12x1.5mm and the top one uses 16x1.5mm.
But there isn´t much room on the side of the carb, so you have to use a banjo fitting here - and the choices here seem to be limited. That´s why i was hoping to find a good way to connect to the top 16x1.5mm and then make a 90degree bend and go into the stainless tube from there.

If Eric doesn´t find this thread, I will try to contact him -
thanks.

Originally, Weber sold the 48IDA equipped with a 12mm banjo bolt and a banjo fitting that a hard line had to be sweat soldered to... maybe you can find those?
In pictures of some of the old Cobra Coupes, like the cars that ran @ Le Mans, and in some of the old GT40 pics, you can see how this was originally done (and the cool heatshield that protected the carbs from the heat off the headers too!)

[Rasser]

I think Eric, the guy that posts as HotrodVW can probably help you.
Isn't the thread going into a 48IDA 12mm x 1.5 though?

As far as I can figure out (measure) the one on the side uses 12x1.5mm and the top one uses 16x1.5mm.
But there isn´t much room on the side of the carb, so you have to use a banjo fitting here - and the choices here seem to be limited. That´s why i was hoping to find a good way to connect to the top 16x1.5mm and then make a 90degree bend and go into the stainless tube from there.

If Eric doesn´t find this thread, I will try to contact him -
thanks.

Originally, Weber sold the 48IDA equipped with a 12mm banjo bolt and a banjo fitting that a hard line had to be sweat soldered to... maybe you can find those?
In pictures of some of the old Cobra Coupes, like the cars that ran @ Le Mans, and in some of the old GT40 pics, you can see how this was originally done (and the cool heatshield that protected the carbs from the heat off the headers too!)

Modifying a banjo and solder the stainless tube to the banjo could be an idea, but can this be done with steel banjo/stainless steel tube ?

anyway here are pictures that might help

[stealth67vw]

Here is what I'm putting together. I made the carb fittings myself from 6061 Aluminum and had them hard anodized. The 90 degree fittings are -6 AN Ano-Tuff swivel fittings from Earls. I will be using Earls Pro-Lite black cloth hose to the fire wall regulator and 3/8 aluminum hardline from the pump up front to the regulator in the engine bay.

[SHAWN GEERS]

Is this what you're looking for?

[stealth67vw]

This is another option
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=660340

[Rasser]

Here is what I'm putting together. I made the carb fittings myself from 6061 Aluminum and had them hard anodized. The 90 degree fittings are -6 AN Ano-Tuff swivel fittings from Earls. I will be using Earls Pro-Lite black cloth hose to the fire wall regulator and 3/8 aluminum hardline from the pump up front to the regulator in the engine bay.

I have thought about that option, but I would still need to get from AN-6 -> 5/16 or 3/8 hardline, and thats my biggest problem right now.

[Rasser]

Is this what you're looking for?

Sorry no, I wan´t to route a stainless steel hardline to the inlet of the carbs - and I can´t figure out how to go there from the AN-6.

[Rasser]

This is another option
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=660340

Thats what I´m looking for, but I don´t like the "space-age" look with the blue anodized AN fittings. If they were available in black anodized og nickel plated, then I would have found what I was looking for.

[Lanny Hussey]

Is this what you're looking for?

Show off....

[Hotrodvw]

Here is what I'm putting together. I made the carb fittings myself from 6061 Aluminum and had them hard anodized. The 90 degree fittings are -6 AN Ano-Tuff swivel fittings from Earls. I will be using Earls Pro-Lite black cloth hose to the fire wall regulator and 3/8 aluminum hardline from the pump up front to the regulator in the engine bay.

I have thought about that option, but I would still need to get from AN-6 -> 5/16 or 3/8 hardline, and thats my biggest problem right now.

I'm here!  I found it!   

Where is your 5/16" hardline located?  I can also get you some #5AN/JIC x 12mmx1.5 adapter to accomodate the 5/16" hardline if needed.  You can use what we call a tube reducer (Fem. #6 x Male #5) which will let you use an #6AN fitting on your carb, and reduce it to #5.  This would look funny IMO, and would be better visually to reduce it behind the shroud or somewhere else. 
I ran all 3/8" hardline.....it's way over kill, but I had the materials to do it.



IT CAN BE DONE.     PM me if you'd like.
Eric

[louisb]

Cool Eric. I want to do hard lines to my IDAs as well. I will get up with you when I am at that point.

--louis

[Hotrodvw]

I say this from experience.  THEY'RE A PAIN IN THE ASS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!   

But they look kinda cool. 

[Harry/FDK]

I say this from experience.  THEY'RE A PAIN IN THE ASS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!   

But they look kinda cool. 

Hi Eric, Great work, i like the seperate line for the pressure gauge. Nice !

Why are they a pain ?

[Hotrodvw]

They're a pain to install w/ the carbs and engine in.  Not much room to swing a wrench.  I use some stubby combo wrenches which help a lot, but it's not near as easy as rubber hose.  BUT.......I'd still run the hardlines.   

[Harry/FDK]

What about the flare tighteness ? How many loosen ups and re-tightenings could the flares of the
hard line stand ?
Thanks, Eric

Best Regards,
Harry

[Rasser]

Hotrodvw:
What you have on your engine is almost similar to what I want.

I will send you a PM with more detailed description

thanks
Rasmus

[Hotrodvw]

What about the flare tighteness ? How many loosen ups and re-tightenings could the flares of the
hard line stand ?
Thanks, Eric

Best Regards,
Harry

The key first off is to not over tighten.  The main cause for a leak here is damaging the sealing surface (The AN/JIC Flare).  There is a proper torque spec, generally I just get them snug and not over do it, it seems to be real close to the proper torque spec.  Technically, you can install and uninstall them many, many times, as long as the seal is in good shape, and the same parts are used together.  Taking an adapter that was previously used on somethign else, and now using it w/ a different tube or hose, can increase your chances of a leak. 

[Harry/FDK]

Thanks Eric !

[Ohio Tom (DdK)]

You can buy the swivel nuts and specal flaring tool that will put a 37deg flare on tubing.
This is compatible with the standard AN/JIC fittings. (looks like the motor above). Nothing specal needed. Summit racing sells everything for the job. Any color you choose too.
However, I do have one caution about running any hard lines to the carbs.
The motor grows in width as it warms up. This repeated heat/cool cycles will stress the hard lines. Combined with all the vibration it will see, I'd worry about flex failure. 
I don't see this as a "safer" option.

[Rasser]

You can buy the swivel nuts and specal flaring tool that will put a 37deg flare on tubing.
This is compatible with the standard AN/JIC fittings. (looks like the motor above). Nothing specal needed. Summit racing sells everything for the job. Any color you choose too.
However, I do have one caution about running any hard lines to the carbs.
The motor grows in width as it warms up. This repeated heat/cool cycles will stress the hard lines. Combined with all the vibration it will see, I'd worry about flex failure. 
I don't see this as a "safer" option.

I have allready found the tube bending/flaring kit, but I can´t find the swivel nuts on summits webshop (only found the inverted flare nuts, but would like the same type as hotrodvw uses on his hardlines in the pictures above)....  can anyone help me out ?

[Harry/FDK]

You can buy the swivel nuts and specal flaring tool that will put a 37deg flare on tubing.
This is compatible with the standard AN/JIC fittings. (looks like the motor above). Nothing specal needed. Summit racing sells everything for the job. Any color you choose too.
However, I do have one caution about running any hard lines to the carbs.
The motor grows in width as it warms up. This repeated heat/cool cycles will stress the hard lines. Combined with all the vibration it will see, I'd worry about flex failure. 
I don't see this as a "safer" option.

Thanks Tom, i'll always forget about the expanding/shrinking factor. No hard lines for me.

[Hotrodvw]

Tube nuts:
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=700+115+310636&D=310636

Tube Sleeves:
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=700+115+300081&D=300081

I also have had concerns about the expansion, and have been keeping a close eye on them.  I haven't had a single issue yet.

[Rasser]

Tube nuts:
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=700+115+310636&D=310636

Tube Sleeves:
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=700+115+300081&D=300081

I also have had concerns about the expansion, and have been keeping a close eye on them.  I haven't had a single issue yet.

Thanks

That was exactly what I was looking for.

AN6 tubenuts and sleeves + 3/8" hardline will fit together ?

[Hotrodvw]

Yup....think of it this way (in SAE terms):  6/16" = 3/8"  Meaning, #6, or 6/16", is what we call a #6 fitting.  #4 is 1/4", or 4/16".  All of the AN fittings are measured in 1/16ths of an inch.