Late Looker (type 4)

[Harry/FDK]

Hi Ed, any news lately ? (of what i learned sofar is keeping valve clearence stock with aluminum pushrods (expand/shrink) and (almost) zero with chrome-moly). But i'm still learning.

[Eddie DVK]

He Harry (old mate )how are you doing.
how is your car coming along?

any news, well, find some time to work on the car again after a very cold winter in which I didnt do anything.
the engine is almost complete now, needs just some small stuff to finish it.
sparkplugs, which do you use?
some oillines.
Muffler, what system are you using?

here some finished picures


It is ready to go into the car now.

Kind Regards Edgar

[Harry/FDK]

Looking good ! I just have to do small stuff on the engine and car. I still have to start on the T4 engine for the Ghia.
I'm thinking of losing the DTM and go your way cooling wise. I love the T1 look as well. Muffler on the T1 is a Magnaflow,
but it's loud, maybe i switch to a stainless A1 style muffler.

[Arnoud]

@Harry:I'm doing the same at this moment-in steel.I'm picking up the heads next week at Udo's.

@Eddy:nice

Greets,Arnoud

[Eddie DVK]

Thanks guys for the kind words.

Have done some other stuff.
Got a transistor ingition so the firewall is a liitle bit full on the left site so have to relocate the fuel line because I want to run a Filterking incl presure regulator and gauge.
So this would be the set up.

So need to make a fuel line through the firewall


drill some holes in the firewall

it s in place

Reroute the fuel line


And how it is going to be.


Kind regards Edgar

[Arnoud]

Hi Edgar!

Normally with a Cali-style conversion you would use the higher style manifold(the ones that CSP recommends),I see that you use lower(BAS?) intake manifolds.
They clear the fanhousing but what about the linkage,what system are you going to use?

Greets,Arnoud

[Eddie DVK]

Hi Arnoud,

I bougt the BAS ones because you could fit the carbs reverse(they got four mounting holes) so that you could adjust the carbs from the inside.
But found out that if I fit them reverse they don t clear the shroud... so have to fit them normal way. Little bit a pitty... But hey...
Have A hexbar as a linkage got them with the carbs they came from a type 4. Have done a little bit of trial fitting, it seems to fit but is bit high for the
trottle cable have to look at this a bit closer...

Kind Regards Edgar

[Harry/FDK]

@Harry:I'm doing the same at this moment-in steel.I'm picking up the heads next week at Udo's.

@Eddy:nice

Greets,Arnoud

[Eddie DVK]

Hell yeah...

Got the engine runnig for the first time yesterday..
after a lot of mismatch with parts and other stuff...
finaly got to turn on the switch and damn 1 try and it went on directly...
I am very pleased with that. 

Still got a small question I am running a CU transistor ignition, on how many degrees should this be at
idle and at 2500-3000?

some pictures how it is in




Regards Edgar

[Harry/FDK]

Looking good Ed !!! Hope she runs well. Were did you locate the oilcooler(s). Do you run the hoses thru the shroud ?

[Arnoud]

Well done Ed!

I see that it works with the lower intake manifolds as well-nice!

Regards,Arnoud





ps.is that the economy setup there(only 1cyl.plugged in! ?)

[Eddie DVK]

Ok it is time for an update, after this,

Finally got my engine ready an running, got it trough the APK(Dutch MOT), some fine tuning to do.
Maybe ready to go for the trip to EBI.



Regards Edgar

And this:

Hi Jesse,
I dont no if I am going with the beetle, got a small oil leak I have to find on the front of the engine maybe flywheel seal.
I am going but do not no witn which car.
But if I join you, I will you let you guys know.

Kind Regards Edgar

Ok it was an oil leak on the flywheel seal (an common thing on type 4s) change it with a vitton version and did some tricks after tips how to get a good seal.
got acces to a carlift thanks to my neighbour, a lot easier then only took 3 hours this way.



hm a lot of oil



and engine in again.



Did some carb tuning and did some driving to work(a few hunderd km s) I must say engine pulls ok I am very happy with torque in low rpms  

and finaly installed new rims


Still some km s to do than off to the dyno for some fine tuning.
But firts holiday time for me.

Kind Regards Edgar

[JeePee/DVK]

Happy holiday Edgar.
Grtz:JP.

[Eddie DVK]

Happy holiday Edgar.
Grtz:JP.

Thanks JP,
I will be back just before DDD, hope to be there with the beetle.

Kind Regards Edgar

[Harry/FDK]

Hi Edgar, any news and/or pics ?

[Eddie DVK]

He Harry as a mather affect there is.
Only forgot to post it here.
Got it on a dyno in the begining of october and got the carbs sorted out.
Did 6 runs.





And this is it for now:
123HP
180NM torque
Nice flat torque curve.
The HP curve is still climbing even at 6000rpms, so there is more in it, but I was afraid to go higher in rpms.

I can say I am really pleased with it, it drives very good  also in low RPMs.

Regards Edgar

[Harry/FDK]

So it's a constant steady pulling Panzer ! Cool !

[Eddie DVK]

So it's a constant steady pulling Panzer ! Cool !

Yep, but I was a bit disappointed when I heard the HP (was hoping 130-140) , but the flat torque curve made me very happy,
this is what gets you going on the street and it does it even far above the 100km/h...

Hope is a good inspiration for you to go on Harry, if even I can (almost) finish a car .

Regards Edgar

[Harry/FDK]

"Hope is a good inspiration for you to go on Harry"

Yess!

Ed, where is that dyno guy located ? Any carburettor expierence ? IDA'S ?

[Harry/FDK]

@Harry:I'm doing the same at this moment-in steel.I'm picking up the heads next week at Udo's.

@Eddy:nice

Greets,Arnoud

Steel pics or info Arnoud..maybe pm ?

[Eddie DVK]

"Hope is a good inspiration for you to go on Harry"

Yess!

Ed, where is that dyno guy located ? Any carburettor expierence ? IDA'S ?

Dyno (one of the few that also can do 4wd cars) is located in Den Haag, is the closest to my home/barn where my (and my friensds) car is, only about 15km away.
Called Beek autoracing, they are very well known in the circuit racing cars, they did our ford sierra race car also.
Verry nice people also and they take a lot of time for you.
Don t know if they have expierence with IDA's but they do a lot old racecars with carbs (a lot of old lotus race cars also, owner races one for many years).
They also do a lot of new porsche 911s.
They where verry pleased that I came with my beetle, the owner use to drive one when he was young they even made pictures and placed them on their site.
How cool.

Have a site, take a look.
www.beekautoracing.nl/

http://www.beekautoracing.nl/gallery.php?id=6  

Regards Edgar

[Udo]

I would go a little higher with the rpms on the dyno. With the schleicher cam may be 7000 should work for testing, these cams do not need much spring pressure

Udo

[Eddie DVK]

I would go a little higher with the rpms on the dyno. With the schleicher cam may be 7000 should work for testing, these cams do not need much spring pressure

Udo

Thanks for that info Udo, will do that next time, hoping to buy some 45 dellorto s next summer and than back on the dyno again.
Thanks for the work on the heads Udo. Did not see a lot of dyno sheets with a torque curve that flat. .

Regards Edgar

[Rasser]

Nice results!
Don´t be disappointed with the results, next time give it some more revs :-)

I mean no disrespect, but looking at the torque curve it doesn´t look that flat to me. If you look at it then it ranges from 50- 455. If the range was 50-250, then the curve would not look that flat. It starts at 115? then tops at 177? then goes back to 140?
Get my point? - if you narrow the range down, then the curve is not that flat.

I don´t mean this in no negative way, just trying to clear out a common mistake.

If you wan´t a flat torque curve, then look at this NA subaru conversion in a Volkswagen based Porsche Speedster - amazing!! 
Starting at 210, topping at 232, then down to 225?

[Eddie DVK]

Nice results!
Don´t be disappointed with the results, next time give it some more revs :-)

I mean no disrespect, but looking at the torque curve it doesn´t look that flat to me. If you look at it then it ranges from 50- 455. If the range was 50-250, then the curve would not look that flat. It starts at 115? then tops at 177? then goes back to 140?
Get my point? - if you narrow the range down, then the curve is not that flat.

I don´t mean this in no negative way, just trying to clear out a common mistake.

If you wan´t a flat torque curve, then look at this NA subaru conversion in a Volkswagen based Porsche Speedster - amazing!! 
Starting at 210, topping at 232, then down to 225?

No problem at all Rasser, I am open to all comments, especially to improve my performance  .
your comment on the torque curves, I have seen a lot of type 1 curves that have a more steep curve then this... starting a lot lower then peaking and dropping fast again.
So that's why I am saying it is ''pretty flat'' 

Regards Edgar

[Eddie DVK]

Ok, a little update back at this point again,
leaking flywheel seal.
http://cal-look.no/lounge/index.php/topic,21131.msg291184.html#msg291184

So engine is out again, lots of oil in the trans bellhouse




Very wet pressure plate and clutch


The only positive part is I always wanted a removable rear valance... so I will do this in one go.

Regards Edgar

[Joe VW]

Did you replace all the galley plugs behind the flywheel with tapped threaded plugs? The stock plugs are notorious for leaking. On an assembled running engine I have removed the stock plugs and replaced them with oversized, tapered solid ones I made on a lathe. (EDIT)  I went back and saw your threaded plugs.
 If you have another case and crankshaft install the flywheel  check for run out at the seal surface. Polish the seal surface like a mirror. Make sure there are no cracks in the case especially around the oil plugs.
Also the seal needs to be installed further than flush by about 1/8" with a little oil on the seal or it will burn up.

[Eddie DVK]

Did you replace all the galley plugs behind the flywheel with tapped threaded plugs? The stock plugs are notorious for leaking. On an assembled running engine I have removed the stock plugs and replaced them with oversized, tapered solid ones I made on a lathe. (EDIT)  I went back and saw your threaded plugs.
 If you have another case and crankshaft install the flywheel  check for run out at the seal surface. Polish the seal surface like a mirror. Make sure there are no cracks in the case especially around the oil plugs.
Also the seal needs to be installed further than flush by about 1/8" with a little oil on the seal or it will burn up.

Hi Joe,

Yes I did al the galley plugs.
The last time I replaced the flywheel seal, I did a little bit of polishing on the flywheel surface, will do this also
on the new ones I have.
The only thing I did was place the seal flush, (as is in the manuals) and you are the second one that says (also spanners on here) to put the seal in further... so I think I am going to do that.

Thanks for your reply.

Regards Edgar

[Eddie DVK]

Ok, there are a lot of holes, but it is not that hard to do.
Finaly got my removable valance.






I going to reuse the valance, because those repo sh.... don t fit at all... fu...


Regards Edgar

[Eddie DVK]

Oh forgot to show, but also got me some daymoulds







They are realy nice and perfect fit.

Regards Edgar