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Author Topic: Current Pics of Marc Buehler's Split Window  (Read 178048 times)
marc1951
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« Reply #240 on: January 13, 2010, 06:29:14 am »

nice work
please post more pictures of the wheels
thanks

The Underdog wheels or the 51's wheels?  and what exactly would you like to see?
At this point all my wheels have hair growing on them <grin> They have not been polished in 25 years.

Marc
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« Reply #241 on: January 14, 2010, 06:10:29 am »

As mentioned earlier, we were having problems being able to use my old ZF limited slip . Thanks to Dave Folts, those problems are
solved.

[ Attachment: You are not allowed to view attachments ] Bolt pattern is different on newer ring gear so Dave created a N/C program and machined the new holes and counter bores

[ Attachment: You are not allowed to view attachments ] Then out of 8 bolts that hold the thing together, 6 were either cracked or broken. These bolts are unique and not available. Dave found some similar bolts and modified them to work. Top bolt is the original, bottom is the new modified bolt.
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Frenchy Dehoux
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« Reply #242 on: January 14, 2010, 16:25:34 pm »


   Marc I have your two Race Trim intake manifolds packaged up send me your address and I will mail them ASAP.

   Frenchy
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« Reply #243 on: January 14, 2010, 19:12:58 pm »

As mentioned earlier, we were having problems being able to use my old ZF limited slip . Thanks to Dave Folts, those problems are
solved.

[ Attachment: You are not allowed to view attachments ] Bolt pattern is different on newer ring gear so Dave created a N/C program and machined the new holes and counter bores

[ Attachment: You are not allowed to view attachments ] Then out of 8 bolts that hold the thing together, 6 were either cracked or broken. These bolts are unique and not available. Dave found some similar bolts and modified them to work. Top bolt is the original, bottom is the new modified bolt.

Cool info on the ZF LSD - How about starting a thread on the rebuild/modification carried out - I only ask as I have located a ZF diff for PROJECT 66 that will probably need a rebuild - Keep up the good work dude Smiley
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« Reply #244 on: January 15, 2010, 00:17:28 am »

nice work
please post more pictures of the wheels
thanks

The Underdog wheels or the 51's wheels?  and what exactly would you like to see?
At this point all my wheels have hair growing on them <grin> They have not been polished in 25 years.

Marc


I'm just curious how you will do for refurbish your brms because I need the same kind of work on my set at home
thanks marc
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marc1951
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« Reply #245 on: January 15, 2010, 04:13:25 am »

nice work
please post more pictures of the wheels
thanks

The Underdog wheels or the 51's wheels?  and what exactly would you like to see?
At this point all my wheels have hair growing on them <grin> They have not been polished in 25 years.

Marc


I'm just curious how you will do for refurbish your brms because I need the same kind of work on my set at home
thanks marc

That's exactly what I was trying to figure out with the Underdog wheel.....what it would take to make my BRMs presentable. I didn't think I could clean that wheel up but I tried a few things on a small area and was able to convince myself that it was possible. The wheels I'm actually putting on the car aren't nearly as bad.

What I plan on doing is media blast the wheels to remove the paint and heavy corrosion and then sand the wheels starting with a lower grit like 120, and then moving to a progressively finer grit.....just like you would do prepping a car for paint.
At this point I might turn over the wheels to a professional polisher to save time and my arthritic hand. If I think I can handle it, I'll then use a metal polish or very fine abrasive starting with Scotch Brite and ending with a buffer wheel and then polishing cloth. 
After that I will use Gibbs penetrating oil to help keep it from going to crap again.
I'll use a sealer on the inside to help keep air from seeping through the porous wheel and contaminating it from the inside. I suppose there is a topic on clear coating wheels somewhere on the Lounge but I've never had good results doing that.

Then the part I fear is having tires mounted. In So Cal it wasn't hard to find a tire dealer who had experience with these wheels but up here in the NorthWest I need to find someone who understands how fragile and valuable they are.  Maybe I will just hand mount them myself......I'm using tubes, of course.

That's my plan. I'm sure others will have different ideas.

Marc
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« Reply #246 on: January 15, 2010, 04:28:09 am »

  Marc I would suggest sending a PM to Bill Schwimmer. He would have some very valuable tips for bringing the BRM's to life. 
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marc1951
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« Reply #247 on: January 15, 2010, 04:42:11 am »

  Marc I would suggest sending a PM to Bill Schwimmer. He would have some very valuable tips for bringing the BRM's to life. 

Thanks Jason
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« Reply #248 on: January 15, 2010, 09:05:24 am »

  Marc I would suggest sending a PM to Bill Schwimmer. He would have some very valuable tips for bringing the BRM's to life. 

Thanks Jason

yes bill helped  me too his advice is to use Mother polish !
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« Reply #249 on: January 15, 2010, 13:10:37 pm »

[ Attachment: You are not allowed to view attachments ] Then out of 8 bolts that hold the thing together, 6 were either cracked or broken. These bolts are unique and not available. Dave found some similar bolts and modified them to work. Top bolt is the original, bottom is the new modified bolt.

Hi Marc,
did you use modified stretch bolts to replace the originals or normal strenght (8.Cool bolts?

Really dig the wrinkle paint at your enginecase, did you use a primer?

Greetings and go on and on!
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« Reply #250 on: January 15, 2010, 15:27:58 pm »

I hate to sound like a stick in the mud, but it al most seems a shame to remove the layer of blue paint from the Underdog days.  Having said that, bringing the wheels back to life is commendable!

Gibbs is great stuff!
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« Reply #251 on: January 15, 2010, 16:04:26 pm »

I hate to sound like a stick in the mud, but it al most seems a shame to remove the layer of blue paint from the Underdog days.  Having said that, bringing the wheels back to life is commendable!

Gibbs is great stuff!

How about taking off the black but leaving the blue? That would look awesome!
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« Reply #252 on: January 15, 2010, 23:31:20 pm »

nice work
please post more pictures of the wheels
thanks
Do you know anybody with a lathe with large enough swing, to chuck wheels up and sand them while spining them?? start with at least 80 grit first, Then work your way down

The Underdog wheels or the 51's wheels?  and what exactly would you like to see?
At this point all my wheels have hair growing on them <grin> They have not been polished in 25 years.

Marc


I'm just curious how you will do for refurbish your brms because I need the same kind of work on my set at home
thanks marc

That's exactly what I was trying to figure out with the Underdog wheel.....what it would take to make my BRMs presentable. I didn't think I could clean that wheel up but I tried a few things on a small area and was able to convince myself that it was possible. The wheels I'm actually putting on the car aren't nearly as bad.

What I plan on doing is media blast the wheels to remove the paint and heavy corrosion and then sand the wheels starting with a lower grit like 120, and then moving to a progressively finer grit.....just like you would do prepping a car for paint.
At this point I might turn over the wheels to a professional polisher to save time and my arthritic hand. If I think I can handle it, I'll then use a metal polish or very fine abrasive starting with Scotch Brite and ending with a buffer wheel and then polishing cloth. 
After that I will use Gibbs penetrating oil to help keep it from going to crap again.
I'll use a sealer on the inside to help keep air from seeping through the porous wheel and contaminating it from the inside. I suppose there is a topic on clear coating wheels somewhere on the Lounge but I've never had good results doing that.

Then the part I fear is having tires mounted. In So Cal it wasn't hard to find a tire dealer who had experience with these wheels but up here in the NorthWest I need to find someone who understands how fragile and valuable they are.  Maybe I will just hand mount them myself......I'm using tubes, of course.

That's my plan. I'm sure others will have different ideas.

Marc
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marc1951
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« Reply #253 on: January 16, 2010, 03:48:09 am »

I'll try to answer several questions here..............

BRMs: Bill sent me his phone number so I will call him when I get a chance.
I use Mother's Polish on the aluminum wheels on my other cars so I have some, but that's not abrasive enough to revive the wheels.
I'm not using the Under Dog's wheels on my car. I may mount slicks on them though and just paint over the blue again. The blue paint seems to be well established (hard to remove).
The lathe i may have access to is not big enough to mount a wheel, but that's not a bad thought and gave me an idea on making something to spin a wheel for sanding/polishing.........hmmmmmm

ZF Bolts: I don't know exactly what Dave ended up using but I have complete faith in his work and I know he was concerned about finding a bolt that would not fail. I know the bolts we were looking at were grade 12.

Wrinkle paint: Thanks, I guess you could say the wrinkle paint and chrome bolts, nuts and washers are sort of my trademark.  I do all my personal motors that way. No primer, but the case must be very clean. I use tape, paper and grease to mask off areas I don't want paint. I heat the case with heat lamps before and after applying the paint which is the paint that Harley Davidson uses on their bike motors. It holds up well and it's easy to touch up small areas.


Did I get everything?

Marc
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JS
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« Reply #254 on: January 16, 2010, 10:00:16 am »

The lathe i may have access to is not big enough to mount a wheel, but that's not a bad thought and gave me an idea on making something to spin a wheel for sanding/polishing.........hmmmmmm

Hey Marc, if you have access to a working beetle, that´s all you need. Walnut shell(or some other mild media) blast the wheels, mask up the parts you don´t want to polish, mount to car, put in 4th gear, turn up idle a little, start with 120grit, 240, 800, 1200, 1500, polish. I didn´t want mine superduper shiny so I stopped at 1500 grit and used Autosol polish. You can go on up to 3000 grit and use wax to polish if you want a true mirror finish. The shutter speed creates the illusion that the wheel is standing still in the pic, but it´s not!
Oh, and to point out the painfully obvious, yes these are chinese replicas...  Wink

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« Reply #255 on: January 20, 2010, 04:51:49 am »



    Marc 

    I have mailed your short Race Trim intake manifolds for your IDA'S today so in the next few days you should see them.

    Frenchy ( Doc Detail )
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marc1951
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« Reply #256 on: January 20, 2010, 05:49:06 am »



    Marc

    I have mailed your short Race Trim intake manifolds for your IDA'S today so in the next few days you should see them.

    Frenchy ( Doc Detail )
Fantastic, great news!  I may get this car done after all. I had all but given up on finding these things. Thanks to Ed Craig's efforts, I have a pair of Berg short manifolds that I would use but I really wanted to use what I had on the car back in the 70's, the Deano/Race Trim manifolds.

and..Dave Folts shipped my transmission today also. ......YES!

Frenchy,
PM me your address and I'll take care of you......and thanks again.

Oh and the next time I buy flowers, I'll buy them from your sister <grin>

Marc
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marc1951
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« Reply #257 on: February 17, 2010, 06:02:25 am »

Finally got my Dave Folts transmission. It's got all the good stuff, Weddle gears/mainshaft, ZF limited slip, 3.88 R&P,Erco side covers, etc., etc.  I had Dave replace the close ratio gears with stock ratios as I want to drive the car without going deaf.......and it's going to be noisy enough as it is. I doubt if I will be racing it very much as I'm too fat and old......but I do like to show off and I love the acceleration. I also hate the smell of gear oil and working on transmissions so I wanted a trans that was as bullet proof as can be. That's why I had Folts set me up. He knew exactly what I wanted and he's good, very good at what he does.

[ Attachment: You are not allowed to view attachments ]
Here I'm busy cleaning up the rough flashing on the "Rhino" case.

[ Attachment: You are not allowed to view attachments ]
Of course, I had to paint the case like I had it in the 70's and buzz off the paint on the ribs. Added chrome axle tubes and flanges.

[ Attachment: You are not allowed to view attachments ]
With the pan still on saw horses, I shoved in the trans. Notice anything wrong?

[ Attachment: You are not allowed to view attachments ]
I had the backing plates installed 90 degrees off, routing the parking brake cables over the axle tubes instead of under where they belong.




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marc1951
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« Reply #258 on: February 17, 2010, 06:07:43 am »

[ Attachment: You are not allowed to view attachments ]
Brakes adjusted, bled.....only need clamps on boots, some oil, and.......wheels!


[ Attachment: You are not allowed to view attachments ]
 Milestone!      Pan is on the ground and can be moved! Pan is now done except for a couple small items I'm going to change, redoing the wheels/mounting new tires, and finish rebuilding the Deano shifter.


[ Attachment: You are not allowed to view attachments ]
This picture doesn't quite show it but the pan has a great stance with the front end sitting low. We'll see what happens when the body and motor are added.

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« Reply #259 on: February 17, 2010, 06:16:22 am »

Looking good Marc !
Thank you for the update !
:-)
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marc1951
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« Reply #260 on: February 17, 2010, 06:20:34 am »

Meanwhile a couple of miles away, Bob is working on the body, slowed while suffering from an injured shoulder.


[ Attachment: You are not allowed to view attachments ]
For some reason, a prior owner cut out this part of the heater tube, under the rear seat. Even though I'm not running heaters, I'm having Bob replace them.

[ Attachment: You are not allowed to view attachments ]
I never wanted to cut up the body by installing "Weber Windows", but because I have a damaged hand (Bob calls it.. "the craw") there is no way I would be able to work on the motor without them.


[ Attachment: You are not allowed to view attachments ]
Bob made sure there are no fasteners or flanges showing in the engine compartment


[ Attachment: You are not allowed to view attachments ]
 the "windows" from the wheel well side




Next week, I'm back on the motor, making my linkage, and doing some detail work

Cheers,

Marc
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vwcab
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« Reply #261 on: February 17, 2010, 11:56:49 am »

Whaw Marc,this is gonne be a bad ass car,can't wait to see it finished .Let the pics come.
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« Reply #262 on: February 17, 2010, 14:28:25 pm »

(Bob calls it.. "the craw")
I gather Bob watches "Get Smart" ?
 Smiley
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« Reply #263 on: February 17, 2010, 22:32:22 pm »

I'll try to answer several questions here..............

BRMs: Bill sent me his phone number so I will call him when I get a chance.
I use Mother's Polish on the aluminum wheels on my other cars so I have some, but that's not abrasive enough to revive the wheels.
I'm not using the Under Dog's wheels on my car. I may mount slicks on them though and just paint over the blue again. The blue paint seems to be well established (hard to remove).
The lathe i may have access to is not big enough to mount a wheel, but that's not a bad thought and gave me an idea on making something to spin a wheel for sanding/polishing.........hmmmmmm

ZF Bolts: I don't know exactly what Dave ended up using but I have complete faith in his work and I know he was concerned about finding a bolt that would not fail. I know the bolts we were looking at were grade 12.

Wrinkle paint: Thanks, I guess you could say the wrinkle paint and chrome bolts, nuts and washers are sort of my trademark.  I do all my personal motors that way. No primer, but the case must be very clean. I use tape, paper and grease to mask off areas I don't want paint. I heat the case with heat lamps before and after applying the paint which is the paint that Harley Davidson uses on their bike motors. It holds up well and it's easy to touch up small areas.


Did I get everything?

Marc
DRA




 Hi Marc- a word of advise, on the Berm's. don't let them roll off your work bench..( nervoussssss )  Shocked.  Once they get dented, they stay dented! Also, if you decided to send them out for polishing. make sure you inform the shop owner. don't polish the edges out. Otherwise, the polisher will round out the edges..

Ask Bill for details...

Art


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DKK Ted
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« Reply #264 on: February 18, 2010, 01:52:28 am »

Hey Mark, car is coming along very nice. Can't wait to see the finish product.

Ted
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marc1951
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« Reply #265 on: February 18, 2010, 05:03:48 am »

(Bob calls it.. "the craw")
I gather Bob watches "Get Smart" ?
 Smiley

Who doesn't?   <grin> Would you believe................................

Marc
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marc1951
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« Reply #266 on: February 18, 2010, 05:10:37 am »






 Hi Marc- a word of advise, on the Berm's. don't let them roll off your work bench..( nervoussssss )  Shocked.  Once they get dented, they stay dented! Also, if you decided to send them out for polishing. make sure you inform the shop owner. don't polish the edges out. Otherwise, the polisher will round out the edges..

Ask Bill for details...

Art



Good advice...........Thanks

Marc
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edcraig
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« Reply #267 on: February 18, 2010, 05:34:51 am »

Not the Craw!...it's the CRAW!  ;-)
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« Reply #268 on: February 18, 2010, 07:02:48 am »

good job marc  Cool , hope the car will be on the road soon

 Wink
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« Reply #269 on: February 19, 2010, 00:03:03 am »

Again looking good Marc - can't wait to see the updates on the body Wink
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