hese
Newbie
Posts: 7
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« on: August 11, 2009, 17:12:38 pm » |
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bad ass case+86mm flanged grank+97mm pistons+cylinders.with orginal typ-1 head stud pattern.
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« Last Edit: August 11, 2009, 17:14:52 pm by hese »
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Peter
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« Reply #1 on: August 11, 2009, 19:17:05 pm » |
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looking good!
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Fasterbrit
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« Reply #2 on: August 11, 2009, 20:49:07 pm » |
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That's a big pair of jugs
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kraftwerk
Newbie
Posts: 35
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« Reply #3 on: August 12, 2009, 13:32:58 pm » |
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how have you managed to fit 97mm cylinders with the standard head stud pattern?? i thought 94mm was the biggest you could go? or am i missing something?
cheers Lee
Kraftwerk VW
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JIMP
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« Reply #4 on: August 12, 2009, 14:57:43 pm » |
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I was thinking the same thing and the cylinders don't look thinner by eye than the 94's if I see correctly
Friendly
Dimitrios
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hese
Newbie
Posts: 7
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« Reply #5 on: August 12, 2009, 19:03:03 pm » |
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cylinders are thicker than 94.
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« Last Edit: August 12, 2009, 19:06:22 pm by hese »
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kraftwerk
Newbie
Posts: 35
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« Reply #6 on: August 12, 2009, 22:20:59 pm » |
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so then...if they are thicker than the 94's how have kept the standard cylinder head stud spacing??
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SuperTrigger
Newbie
Posts: 41
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« Reply #7 on: August 13, 2009, 05:55:59 am » |
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Is this for RytöOval?
-MP-
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jr59
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« Reply #8 on: August 13, 2009, 08:44:17 am » |
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interesting things!! Wich cylinder are you using? wich size of studs (M8 or M10?) I already have a set of geer/CP P&C in 96.7mm and needless to say that it seems hard to make them go with original stud pattern!! would you give the external diameter for the bottom of cylinder going in the case? cheer JR
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hese
Newbie
Posts: 7
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« Reply #9 on: August 13, 2009, 09:35:52 am » |
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Bottom end diameter is 98.55mm with 0.05mm tolerance to case. Cylinders are (originally 96.50mm) Autocraft with 96.90mm oversize bore, not a true 97mm.studs are m8.
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« Last Edit: August 13, 2009, 10:25:53 am by hese »
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jr59
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« Reply #10 on: August 13, 2009, 11:33:26 am » |
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So you use very thin wall !! It's would be great to see coment from those who already exeriment this!! cheer JR
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kraftwerk
Newbie
Posts: 35
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« Reply #11 on: August 13, 2009, 13:18:57 pm » |
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a bit on the thin side at the case end but is that really that bad?, depends on ya stroke/rod length i guess, but if it aint to bad cylinder head end, should be ok! hopefully they will stay round!! do ya think they would take a reasonable ammount of boost(20psi)? if so, then my brother who is kaferboy on here knows where im goin with this..........next season maybe? ?
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jamiep_jamiep
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« Reply #12 on: August 14, 2009, 08:28:23 am » |
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Dude your a bad influence on me!!!!
Hahaha... I wanna get what I have working right before I tear it apart again, my car spends more time in bits on the garage floor than anywhere else!
Although........
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kraftwerk
Newbie
Posts: 35
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« Reply #13 on: August 14, 2009, 19:19:54 pm » |
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Dude your a bad influence on me!!!!
Hahaha... I wanna get what I have working right before I tear it apart again, my car spends more time in bits on the garage floor than anywhere else!
Although........
i just like spendin your money dude, and using your money for R+D , then when we know it works. i can invest what little money i have on something proven !! anyway, anymore news on the motor/build up etc..pics maybe hese ??
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ugly duckling
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« Reply #14 on: August 15, 2009, 05:32:18 am » |
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as far as i know the 96.7 set ups that ive seen the engine case becomes part of the cly wall. counter boring the case perfect od for tight fit then finish hone the id of the case bore. no tail on the cly. the case does this part. thats how they fit it in the stock stud pattern location. but im sure you allready knew this ?. why waste your time with that size are you building it for class racing? if not go 4in you can get light wight 4in pistons. you have the heads to go 4in take atvantage of this. a hole differnt ANIMAL MY FREIND then too you can put a REAL HEAD STUD not some tooth pick that will more than likely fail under sever abuse and cause major head FART. good luck on your project wich ever way you go . UD .
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« Last Edit: August 15, 2009, 05:41:12 am by ugly duckling »
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