Parts recommendations

[bugnut68]

Okie dokie, I'm looking for a recommendation on what brand of gland nut to use with my DPR 78.4 mm crank... CB, Scat, Bugpack, etc?  My only stipulation is I won't use any EMPI/Mr. Bug parts in this engine.  No negotiations there, at all. 

Also looking for recommendations for pushrods and pushrod tubes. I'm running an Engle 125 cam and may use 1.25 ratio rockers with it, so what tubes would best suit me?

One other question: at what point is a stock mechanical fuel pump not considered sufficient?

[181]

I have a Scat HD 38mm gland nut, they sey that Berg is the best..

[Jon]

The best bolt is the one that applies force all over the crankshaft end. It's about clamping force and keeping a good tension in the bolt.
I use a SCAT bolt and a "homemade" tool steel washer to distribute the force...

[TexasTom]

Go with a Scat if you can't get ahold of a Berg unit ... Berg's washers are very nice.

As for the stock fuel pumps, go with an original, rebuildable style, with the six screws on top. I took my '67 into the 12s before going electric.

[stealth67vw]

Go with Berg if they have them in stock  or Bugpack's new 36mm chromoly gland nut. I went with Bugpack after waiting months for the Berg's. It is a very nice piece and you can use a Torque Meister on it and torque it to 50lbs (450).

Berg or Manton pushrods and stock tubes are all I use. I do have CB windage tubes on my new engine though.

[Bruce]

All you need is a stock genuine VW German gland nut and a slightly thicker, larger diameter washer.  Torque it to 400.

[neil68]

I'm running the stock fuel lines and pump on my 2332 cc, IDA's, 180 WHP, 7,000+ rpms, high-12's at 104 MPH (at elevation).

I also like the Bugpack chromoly gland nut, mine is torqued to 405 ft. lb.

Manton 0.035" pushrods, Jaycee pushrod tubes with EMPI silicone seals (sorry, I know you said non-negotiable, but the EMPI transparent silicone seals are the only ones that won't leak on my engine...I've tried three other brands)

[stealth67vw]

All you need is a stock genuine VW German gland nut and a slightly thicker, larger diameter washer.  Torque it to 400.

I have seen a few break the heads off torqued that high. Bryan Wenzel had one break on his motor while torquing it.

[Bruce]

All you need is a stock genuine VW German gland nut and a slightly thicker, larger diameter washer.  Torque it to 400.

I have seen a few break the heads off torqued that high. Bryan Wenzel had one break on his motor while torquing it.

Once when I wasn't paying enough attention, I broke the head off while tightening it.  I was over 500ftlbs.  Never broke one at 400.