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Author Topic: Real world experience...Stock Rods.  (Read 6775 times)
gizago
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« on: October 25, 2010, 21:46:31 pm »

I'm building a mild stroker motor for my girlfriends '67 bug as a surprise, out of spare parts from the garage, and have a set of 311 reconditioned rods that I would like to use. They are as stock, with stock style bolts etc. What I want to know is has anybody had any real experience of these in a mild performance motor?? If they are as over engineered as most VW stuff I reckon they should be fine but would like to hear any opinions.

I know the bolts are probably the weak link, but It wont be revving past 6.5k so maybe no too much of an issue?

Do i use them or go for a set of unitech rods??

Cheers, Mat.
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ugly duckling
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« Reply #1 on: October 26, 2010, 05:30:06 am »

Hi mat. here is a good example of what you are asking about. my first 78x94 RACE ENGINE WAYYYYY WAYYYYY back in the stone ages of 83/84.  STOCK VW 311B stock bolt rods. in the buggy revved to around 7800/8000. never ever missed a beat. then larry vanwilligen bought my engine for his G dragster and proceded to rev it to 9200. and LITRILY ran the PISS out of it . here is a shot of the UGLY DUCKLING and his past pride and joy the 78x94 in QUIS.  THE REAL DEAL my freind.no not a mild street engine like you were asking. but it should anwser your relilibility QUIS.  good luck with your project. UD . 
« Last Edit: October 27, 2010, 00:44:06 am by ugly duckling » Logged

gizago
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« Reply #2 on: October 26, 2010, 22:38:18 pm »

Perfect, thats the kind of answer I was looking for  Cool

Thanks UD.  I'll start bolting it all together then Smiley
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Speed-Randy
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« Reply #3 on: October 27, 2010, 05:36:22 am »

I also have a 78x92 IDA motor in my street car, that I drive like I stole it Smiley Smiley. stock rods, 9.5:1 and still runs as strong as when I built it 5 years ago
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fredy66
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« Reply #4 on: October 27, 2010, 07:23:58 am »

i,m looking at geting 78 crank i have the 94b pistions and some stock rods
thinkin money can i bolt on the stock rods and som better bolts or is it better to get some I-beams ??
if i m beter of geting new ones do 5,4 0r the 5,5
http://aircooled.fi/shop/index.php?categoryID=315

thanks fredy
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arabia slugs
Donny B.
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« Reply #5 on: October 27, 2010, 16:16:26 pm »

From what I've been told the bolts are not the weak point.  When the rod goes it is usually the cap that breaks.  I would use Berg shot peened and clearanced rods.  JMO
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Don Bulitta
Wolfsburg Registry
Jim Ratto
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« Reply #6 on: October 27, 2010, 16:29:17 pm »

Doesn't Mason run modded stock VW rods in his car? 11.31 @ 121
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BeetleBug
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Snabba grabben...


« Reply #7 on: October 27, 2010, 16:37:19 pm »

Doesn't Mason run modded stock VW rods in his car? 11.31 @ 121

Interesting. I used Porsche 616 in my old 80x94 - 2221 nitrous engine, 220 - 230hp with a small shot of nitrous. The same rods are still in the engine and will be re-used by the new owner. They are supposed to be even weaker than the VW ones.
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10.41 - 100ci - 1641ccm - 400hp
Tony M
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« Reply #8 on: October 27, 2010, 18:11:09 pm »

I run the dog sh-- out of my stock crank and rod 1776 engine - shift at 6000 all day long.
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Life is too fast to drive a slow VW
1957lowlight
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Philip Steenackers


« Reply #9 on: October 27, 2010, 18:29:38 pm »

As Donny said.  I would also use the Berg original reworked rods.  I had them in a hot 1776cc street engine witch ran easy 6500 rpm and was build 12 years ago.  The engine still runs today in my friends 1967 ruby red ragtop.  I had never problems with them and 12 years ago, they didn't brake the bank either.

Good luck with the engine.

Phiiip
Flatline Lowriders
Belgium
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Udo
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« Reply #10 on: October 27, 2010, 18:56:14 pm »

Orininal rods can be used in most engines . I lighten and polish them for bigger engines . we also used the originals polished in our ciruit race engines 170-185 hp with good results.

udo
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gizago
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« Reply #11 on: October 27, 2010, 21:47:16 pm »

Orininal rods can be used in most engines . I lighten and polish them for bigger engines . we also used the originals polished in our ciruit race engines 170-185 hp with good results.

udo

I did think about polishing them, I'll get it done. Encouraging stuff!! Cheers Udo.

The motor is a 74x92, with C35,1:25-1 rockers, ported 041's full flowed etc, aiming for a c/r around 8.5 to use 95 octane gas. Need carbs, looking for some 40 IDF's.
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dragvw2180
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« Reply #12 on: October 28, 2010, 01:11:29 am »

 Years ago I raced the IVWA circuit and had finished the season, met GENE BERG at one of his seminars and struck up a conversation with him. The next day we were at the race and GENE came by and we were talking about my car, he gave me some ideas about improvements. I decided to let my sponsor at the time drive my car that day, 2165 engine w /stock reworked rods . To make a long story short, the driver launched the car and a rod broke which destroyed the engine.  I turned to Gene and said " that was fun", the next engine had Carillos . I have never broken an H beam rod, have broken a crank but the rods were still attached.  My point is this, a set of better rods start about 150.00 all the way up to Carillos, is insuring the safety of your engine worth 150.00 ?  I am sure you guys check your rods big end with a bore gauge to see how much they oblong ( get narrower at the bolts)  , how many passes with a 92 mm piston before they have to be re sized?  I am not trying to be negative just trying to save someone from making the same mistakes I made.    Mike



http://s91.photobucket.com/albums/k300/dragvw2180/?action=view&current=080406_McCarthy_Farmington.mp4
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Bruce
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« Reply #13 on: October 28, 2010, 03:09:51 am »

.....and a rod broke which destroyed the engine. 
How do you know the rod let go first?
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dragvw2180
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« Reply #14 on: October 28, 2010, 03:28:18 am »

The crank did not break, but did bend from damage. The rod cap was broken  ,the carnage was obvious to me
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Donny B.
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« Reply #15 on: October 28, 2010, 15:51:52 pm »

What RPM was the launch?
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Don Bulitta
Wolfsburg Registry
dragvw2180
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« Reply #16 on: October 28, 2010, 18:29:19 pm »

Its been over twenty years ago and before I had msd system, had mag and pro control back then but was probably around 6500, Mike
  this is a bad pic of the car back then,

http://s91.photobucket.com/albums/k300/dragvw2180/?action=view&current=IM000109a.jpg
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gizago
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« Reply #17 on: October 29, 2010, 20:16:07 pm »

Years ago I raced the IVWA circuit and had finished the season, met GENE BERG at one of his seminars and struck up a conversation with him. The next day we were at the race and GENE came by and we were talking about my car, he gave me some ideas about improvements. I decided to let my sponsor at the time drive my car that day, 2165 engine w /stock reworked rods . To make a long story short, the driver launched the car and a rod broke which destroyed the engine.  I turned to Gene and said " that was fun", the next engine had Carillos . I have never broken an H beam rod, have broken a crank but the rods were still attached.  My point is this, a set of better rods start about 150.00 all the way up to Carillos, is insuring the safety of your engine worth 150.00 ?  I am sure you guys check your rods big end with a bore gauge to see how much they oblong ( get narrower at the bolts)  , how many passes with a 92 mm piston before they have to be re sized?  I am not trying to be negative just trying to save someone from making the same mistakes I made.    Mike

I hear what you're saying and appreciate the concern, but in fairness she wont be launching the car on a prepped track with sticky tyres, or revving it hard (not saying I wont if I borrow it though  Tongue)
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RhoadsVW
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« Reply #18 on: October 30, 2010, 07:46:53 am »

I ran stock VW rods in my green car for over 30 years with no issues.  The stock genuine VW rod is very strong. I would trust them before Unitech rods any day.  Dave Rhoads
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Der Renwagen Fuhrers
fredy66
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« Reply #19 on: October 30, 2010, 08:41:54 am »

Way do we want to do old vw rods??
when we can have new I-beams from aa or cb for 130 €
just asking  Huh
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arabia slugs
Torben Alstrup
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« Reply #20 on: October 30, 2010, 11:54:08 am »

Stock rods are very strong, PERIOD. But today they need to be carefully inspected for cracks etc. That is why it is cheaper and quite OK to buy quality Chinese produced I beam rods for milder engines today. I prefer the Unitech because they are light. Scat I beams are a little heavier, but can withstand serius boost.
But reworked stock rods will handle the same or more power. Problem is, that a set of reworked stock rods with new bolts etc. often get into the same price range as the average H beam.
T
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dirk zeyen
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« Reply #21 on: October 30, 2010, 12:21:53 pm »

hi torben,

are they realy quality chinese produced? i've heard a set of chinese rods are sometimes not within the same length.......
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back again!!!
fredy66
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« Reply #22 on: October 31, 2010, 14:23:45 pm »

anybody have experience with the AA performace I-beams 
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arabia slugs
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