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Author Topic: 36hp Mods  (Read 20608 times)
RichardinNZ
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« on: August 29, 2012, 01:21:16 am »

I've currently removed the 36hp from the '58 and will be removing the heads to replace the pushrod tubes/seals etc to get on top of the oil leaks.    I will be adding dual 28PCI carbs on Express manifolds and an 019 distributor. 

I've also asked this on theSamba Vintage Speed forum, but thought it would also be good to see what people think here.    Are there any simple modifications that a novice (ME) could attempt to take advantage of having the carbs?

It is still single port...

Thanks
Richard
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Richard, Auckland, New Zealand

'58 Bug; NZ assembled
Dual Carb 36hp
Zach Gomulka
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Posts: 7004


Don't piss down my back and tell me it's raining.


« Reply #1 on: August 29, 2012, 02:15:27 am »

Can't get it in if you can't get it out, so get a free flowing exhaust. And since you've got the heads off, a valve job and a flycut for more compression will really help. Just make sure your bottom end is sound.
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Born in the '80s, stuck in the '70s.
RichardinNZ
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« Reply #2 on: August 29, 2012, 02:34:52 am »

Hi Zach
Need to stick with the stock exhaust for now (cost) so have fitted so big bore unbaffled tailpipes to make it flow more easily.  I will see if I can find someone who can flycut the heads. 
Thanks
Richard
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Richard, Auckland, New Zealand

'58 Bug; NZ assembled
Dual Carb 36hp
Black Sheep
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less is more


« Reply #3 on: August 29, 2012, 07:35:54 am »

Rich engine bhp is mainly made in good flowing heads , any head work you undertake will be strangled by a stock muffler , dig deep buddy and find a merged header for that 36 er  Wink
« Last Edit: August 29, 2012, 07:38:30 am by Black Sheep » Logged

Stick with what you know works .
13.03 @ 98mph
RichardinNZ
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« Reply #4 on: August 29, 2012, 10:12:21 am »

Glenn, yes one day but according to the 1950s book 'Souping the Volkswagen' even pulling the baffle from a stock tailpipe can make a huge difference!

Hope all is good with you. 
Richard
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Richard, Auckland, New Zealand

'58 Bug; NZ assembled
Dual Carb 36hp
andy198712
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Posts: 1048



« Reply #5 on: August 29, 2012, 15:27:34 pm »

maybe look at fitting cam bearings when you get chance, think the case has to be machined to take them... Smiley
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Black Sheep
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less is more


« Reply #6 on: August 29, 2012, 18:28:28 pm »

Glenn, yes one day but according to the 1950s book 'Souping the Volkswagen' even pulling the baffle from a stock tailpipe can make a huge difference!

Hope all is good with you.  
Richard

What you really need is to give Ray Schubert a bell at Speedwell , he can fab you up one of his 356 carrera mufflers .

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/v/ejLwH_Yj9TY" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/v/ejLwH_Yj9TY</a>

Had a chat with him at Volksword  show where he had one on display and was really impressed with it and very reasonably priced too , top bloke  Cool

Oh and may need you to pop over to take some pic's of my ride again soon  Wink
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Stick with what you know works .
13.03 @ 98mph
RichardinNZ
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« Reply #7 on: August 29, 2012, 20:12:19 pm »

Hi Glenn
Would definiately like one of those Speedwell systems (as on Dick Mitchell's Oval) but it won't be this year!

Would be great to pop over but it would more than blow my VW budget; 5 years is a long time to be away. Sad
« Last Edit: August 29, 2012, 20:14:00 pm by RichardinNZ » Logged

Richard, Auckland, New Zealand

'58 Bug; NZ assembled
Dual Carb 36hp
besserwisser
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« Reply #8 on: August 29, 2012, 22:11:07 pm »

Do a valve job and get some better valve springs to be able to rev more. Flycut 2mm and change the intake to 34mm. Dual 28 and a Reichert intake kit that is still available. Met Mr Reichert last may and he is still active and selling his kits. I have reground cams with better lift and duration for sale and several motors running with this stuff.
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RichardinNZ
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« Reply #9 on: August 30, 2012, 21:16:49 pm »

Not sure I can pull the money together at the moment for the bigger valves but will look into it.  34mm sounds big; don't the Okrasa dual port heads have 33mm?

Thanks
Richard
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Richard, Auckland, New Zealand

'58 Bug; NZ assembled
Dual Carb 36hp
RichardinNZ
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« Reply #10 on: September 22, 2012, 20:19:06 pm »

Made some decisions; 2mm flycut and 33mm (Okrasa 36hp size) intakes.  I can get HD springs but will I need them? Not getting into the bottom end (which seems sound) so stock cam and can't locate anything more than stock retainers and keepers.   Will my new setup rev much higher so meaning I need the springs or will I increase wear with no gain?

Thanks
Richard
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Richard, Auckland, New Zealand

'58 Bug; NZ assembled
Dual Carb 36hp
RichardinNZ
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Posts: 401



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« Reply #11 on: September 24, 2012, 00:17:05 am »

Anyone have any thoughts on this...looking to order as our show season is coming!
Thanks
Richard
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Richard, Auckland, New Zealand

'58 Bug; NZ assembled
Dual Carb 36hp
RichardinNZ
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« Reply #12 on: October 30, 2012, 09:53:32 am »

Got my heads back...mild mods for most of you on here but moving towards what I want for the '58...as planned, 2mm flycut (will give 7.5:1 CR up from stock 6.6:1), 33mm intakes, mild porting and HD valve springs.  Now time to get the engine back together, get the linkage sorted for the dual 28PCI carbs and off to our Spring Jamboree (18th November).


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Richard, Auckland, New Zealand

'58 Bug; NZ assembled
Dual Carb 36hp
Doktor
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« Reply #13 on: October 30, 2012, 10:26:24 am »

Manifold for 28pci carb is your hand-made work ?  Cheesy

They look great !
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dr.aircooled
RichardinNZ
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« Reply #14 on: October 30, 2012, 10:32:24 am »

Manifolds appear to be Autotechnik Express modified by a previous owner with new balance tubes and the old balance tube threads used to mount the linkage....they will be good but I just need to get the linkage sorted.  I'll post some more pictures when things progress.
Thanks
Richard 
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Richard, Auckland, New Zealand

'58 Bug; NZ assembled
Dual Carb 36hp
danny gabbard
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gabfab


« Reply #15 on: October 30, 2012, 20:22:46 pm »

Something I did on my 40 hp motor richard.
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danny gabbard
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gabfab


« Reply #16 on: October 30, 2012, 20:25:35 pm »

Couple more shots
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A poor craftsman, Blame's it on poor tools.  GAB-FAB shop # 775 246-3069
RichardinNZ
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« Reply #17 on: October 31, 2012, 10:38:01 am »

Hope mine turns out as good as yours Danny.

I'm now moving on with assembly and have a query....you'll see that the heads have been machined deeper (2mm) and slightly less taken off the 'face' to keep as much of the fin as possible.  When I slide the head onto the barrels there is very little clearance (if any) between the step in the barrel and the face of the head.  I'm therefore concerned that the top of the cylinder may or may not be seating properly in the head/chamber.  How can I check if it is seating OK and how much clearance should I have between the head and the step in the barrel?

Looks like I may need a little modification done to the heads (given I don't want to take the barrels off the car).

Many thanks
Richard
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Richard, Auckland, New Zealand

'58 Bug; NZ assembled
Dual Carb 36hp
Airspeed
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« Reply #18 on: October 31, 2012, 12:29:20 pm »

I think you would want 1mm clearence at least. More is always better for cooling reasons.
Choice is simple indeed: from either side you cab take material away. Just see what is more easy to accomplish.
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"...these cars were preferred by the racers because the strut front suspension results in far superior handling than the regular torsion bar front end..."  - Keith Seume.
11.06 @ 125 mph
RichardinNZ
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« Reply #19 on: October 31, 2012, 20:45:46 pm »

Thanks Airspeed
Plenty of clearance between fins it just appears that the step in the barrel may be stopping it going deep enough into the head.   I'll get some plasticine or similar today and torque the head down to check....but even if this is OK should there be some clearance between the step in the barrel (between the machined section that goes in the head and the first fin) and the head? 1mm here sounds a lot?

Thanks
Richard
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Richard, Auckland, New Zealand

'58 Bug; NZ assembled
Dual Carb 36hp
RichardinNZ
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« Reply #20 on: November 01, 2012, 11:20:50 am »

Just had both heads on with modelling clay to check fit and clearances....all looks OK...so will assemble at the weekend. 

Richard
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Richard, Auckland, New Zealand

'58 Bug; NZ assembled
Dual Carb 36hp
RichardinNZ
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« Reply #21 on: November 12, 2012, 08:01:41 am »

...having trouble adjusting the valves (too little clearance) even after shortening pushrods 2mm...got to sort this, the linkage and fuel pipes and then back on the road!
Richard

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Richard, Auckland, New Zealand

'58 Bug; NZ assembled
Dual Carb 36hp
RichardinNZ
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« Reply #22 on: November 23, 2012, 00:42:09 am »

Nearly finished...








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Richard, Auckland, New Zealand

'58 Bug; NZ assembled
Dual Carb 36hp
Airspeed
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« Reply #23 on: November 23, 2012, 09:03:31 am »

Definately looks the business!
Nice job!
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"...these cars were preferred by the racers because the strut front suspension results in far superior handling than the regular torsion bar front end..."  - Keith Seume.
11.06 @ 125 mph
Black Sheep
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less is more


« Reply #24 on: November 23, 2012, 20:48:51 pm »

Nice work Rich , they look like old stainless cartune exhaust pipes ?
 If they are make sure the clamps are double tight as their slightly smaller diameter than STD  
lost one of mine once  Wink
« Last Edit: November 23, 2012, 20:50:42 pm by Black Sheep » Logged

Stick with what you know works .
13.03 @ 98mph
RichardinNZ
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« Reply #25 on: November 26, 2012, 09:15:13 am »

Thanks for the compliments!

I couldn't get any cartune pipes so had TurboThomas make some up to my dimensions....fit really well. 

Richard
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Richard, Auckland, New Zealand

'58 Bug; NZ assembled
Dual Carb 36hp
RichardinNZ
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Posts: 401



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« Reply #26 on: June 17, 2013, 02:37:36 am »

Unfortunately the dual carb engine for the ’58 has been on hold for a few months as I’ve had some other issues (not with the car!) that needed my attention.  As a result I’ve missed the whole of the summer here but now have time to begin work again.

Had issues with the heads not sealing on the barrels, which meant that I had to pull the barrels to square up their top edge.  Then found I had broken rings….barrels now honed and rings found but now have to begin reassembly again.

Anyway; to make it all easier I decided I needed an engine stand rather than try to work on an engine that was sat on a box.  There was a generic engine stand on offer in one of the auto parts stores here so I bought it on Saturday to only afterwards realise how hard it is to bolt a VW engine to this, particularly with the flywheel in place. 

My first thought was to not use the head that came with the stand and to use one of the EMPI heads from their stand that bolts to a workbench as these are easily available here.  However the ‘shaft ‘ on this is only just over 40mm whereas the one on my stand is 60mm.

Has anyone adapted a generic stand to use with a VW engine (without resorting to welding etc)?
Many thanks
Richard
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Richard, Auckland, New Zealand

'58 Bug; NZ assembled
Dual Carb 36hp
modnrod
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Posts: 800


Old School Volksies


« Reply #27 on: June 17, 2013, 03:25:47 am »

Has anyone adapted a generic stand to use with a VW engine (without resorting to welding etc)?
Many thanks
Richard


Yep.
I used an old gearbox clutch housing and cut big windows in it each side, then bolted that (easy to use the input shaft hole) to a bit of steampipe the right diameter to slide into the generic stand of which you speak.
 Wink

PS Did you make the stacks? Very cool!
« Last Edit: June 17, 2013, 03:28:03 am by modnrod » Logged
RichardinNZ
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« Reply #28 on: June 17, 2013, 08:23:35 am »

Sounds a good way to do it.  Do you have a photo?

The stacks came from Aircooled Research; look the part and good price too.

Thanks
Richard
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Richard, Auckland, New Zealand

'58 Bug; NZ assembled
Dual Carb 36hp
RichardinNZ
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Posts: 401



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« Reply #29 on: September 16, 2013, 21:18:27 pm »

Long delayed reply!  Engine back in and running now.  Had to do some modifications to linkage, as the previous owner of the manifolds had tried use ill fitting imperial helm joints in metric threads...they fell out as soon as I tried to use them!  New metric joints now fitted. 

The main issue I now have is the engine is idling too fast, with both carbs shut right down.  I have new gaskets etc so don't think I have any air leaks.  Any thoughts?  Can I use the volume control screws to slow it?  Alternatively should I be looking at my jetting (currently stock on each carb)?

Overall....it goes really well, just this one issue.


FYI...pictures of the modified engine stand.  It is a generic stand with an 'EMPI' bench mount stand adapted to fit by adding an adapter tube around the outside to increase its diameter.  Overall a pretty cheap stand.



Thanks
Richard
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Richard, Auckland, New Zealand

'58 Bug; NZ assembled
Dual Carb 36hp
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