i need help for my dash from my (thurber x aronson mixed) cal look

[miguel]

Hi Everyone , I'm building a 1962 ragtop i real cal look style , i getting my inspiration out of Mark Thurbers car and also out of Arosons white ragtop , my idea is to make a little bit of a combination of these 2 cars but with my own style . I try build everything so period equal as possible . I bought myself a blaupunkt bamberg radio from the first edition ( like i think it was the same that Aronson got in his white cal look ) . I want to know if somebody know how Aronson build excatly his radio in the gloveboxhole . I know you can buy plastic shit to build on a radio in a glovebox but i don't want that . Hopefully someone can help me out , i already search cal look lounge about topics of something equal , but i din't find anything yet so far .

[Dougy Dee]

Looks like a black plexi panel trimmed to fit. THE whole dash looks that way...

[miguel]

Looks like a black plexi panel trimmed to fit. THE whole dash looks that way...

Hello Dougy , I think you understand me wrong , i don't need to know about the black plates , i want to know what's behind the black plate to keep the plate in place in the carton board of the glove box , a radio needs some stability if you want have a proper sound and for sure the old radio's . So i don't think the plates is screwed in the carton board . And i'm wondering if they make the carton board totaly open in the back for the wiring and elektricity or that he just drill a whole in it, because there's extra stuff i need to connect with the radio that i  got with it . About the plexi plate , i ordered a plexi plate and make my dashboard of it but that really shit because you have easily scratches in it so is put it in the garbage , so i actually think he used a metal plate , i also did that now and  after painting it will be perfect .

greets Miguel

[Martin S.]

Cool sex light in the dash!

[cedric]

A did a wooden blok under the radio...you can find out end i strap it on

[Dougy Dee]

Actually I understood you perfectly. I figured the mounting would be the simplest thing.
The plexi is to hide the mount.

[miguel]

case solved thanks to Jim Holmes 

[youngnstudly]

Not that it matters now, but I mounted my stereo in the glove box many years back (when I had a stereo). I simply removed the glove box insert, scribed an even line all the way around the plastic glove box insert opening (where the insert seals against the dash opening) about 2" deep, then drilled a hole 1" deeper so I could trim the 2" deep insert opening with sheet metal snips. The rest of the glove box insert was discarded since I only needed the opening that fit the dash. I fabbed a piece of aluminum sheet with the glove box dash opening marked out on the aluminum, and some "ears" around the perimeter so I could rivet the 2" section of glove box insert to the aluminum.

 The polished aluminum is what the stereo is mounted through, and the entire setup is supported by sheet metal "C"shaped channel that leads to the grab handle studs on the front (trunk) side, and the lower wiring cover mounting stud. Don't mind the missing stereo face trim or the vinyl loosely placed in the photo around the opening (I JUST installed everything to test fit it and took a photo). I stitched a narrow length of foam backed vinyl to hide the pop rivet heads and I was just checking the length of the vinyl before the final stitching and gluing took place.

Just throwing my method out there in case you need another idea. You could fasten or glue the plexiglass over the top of the aluminum. The stereo was mounted very rigidly and never moved or rattled.

Andy

[miguel]

Thanks Andy , it's interesting to know !!!! Maybe i can use your idea to if the other one doesn't work that i have .

Not that it matters now, but I mounted my stereo in the glove box many years back (when I had a stereo). I simply removed the glove box insert, scribed an even line all the way around the plastic glove box insert opening (where the insert seals against the dash opening) about 2" deep, then drilled a hole 1" deeper so I could trim the 2" deep insert opening with sheet metal snips. The rest of the glove box insert was discarded since I only needed the opening that fit the dash. I fabbed a piece of aluminum sheet with the glove box dash opening marked out on the aluminum, and some "ears" around the perimeter so I could rivet the 2" section of glove box insert to the aluminum.

 The polished aluminum is what the stereo is mounted through, and the entire setup is supported by sheet metal "C"shaped channel that leads to the grab handle studs on the front (trunk) side, and the lower wiring cover mounting stud. Don't mind the missing stereo face trim or the vinyl loosely placed in the photo around the opening (I JUST installed everything to test fit it and took a photo). I stitched a narrow length of foam backed vinyl to hide the pop rivet heads and I was just checking the length of the vinyl before the final stitching and gluing took place.

Just throwing my method out there in case you need another idea. You could fasten or glue the plexiglass over the top of the aluminum. The stereo was mounted very rigidly and never moved or rattled.

Andy