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Author Topic: To use or not to use paper gaskets  (Read 2826 times)
Diederick/DVK
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« on: May 20, 2009, 16:52:02 pm »

This is a quick query off the top of my head... I have a nice VW engine gasket kit lying around, but I've also got a syringe of Loctite 574 flange sealant as well as Curil K2 for the case halves.

Now, I think the books said to use Curil K2 and the like around the oil pump, but how about under my GB oil pump plate? Do I use the paper gasket that I have or something else? And the generator stand? Type 3 block off plate "under" cylinder no. 2?

I'd just like to hear about the best practices and what you people use.  Smiley
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Diederick
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Jim Ratto
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« Reply #1 on: May 20, 2009, 18:46:48 pm »

I use the Loctite 572 on the oil pump paper gaskets, very sparingly. I use it on my case halves too this last time around. I had tried it once before on case halves and had a leaker, so went back to Curil K2. This time it worked on my case... tight and dry... oops did I say that?
You can use the 572 on barrel to case seal too. I seal berg sump to case with it and stock paper gasket too.
places to watch for when sealing your motor are 12mm thick case washers at main saddles, rocker studs where they thread into heads, head washers in rocker chamber and 8mm washers at cam plug studs. Use your K2 to seal all those potential leaks.
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Diederick/DVK
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« Reply #2 on: May 20, 2009, 21:05:48 pm »

thanks for the advice Jim! So, I should use 572 AND a paper gasket on the pump and sump. Just 572 on the barrels. how about the block off plate? paper + 572?

what do you mean by case washer at main saddles? inside the case, or those 6 washer around the barrels? didn't you reverse those 6 nuts:



how about where the head studs go into the case? should I seal those or loctite them? i also have PTFE loctite that i use for the oil fittings...
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Diederick
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« Reply #3 on: May 20, 2009, 21:44:42 pm »

I think you have the main 6 case nuts backwards..they are not self locking but self sealing and that means they are supposed to be installed with the plastic ring crushed against the case, without the washer.



head studs..it depends if the savers are opened to the case or if they are "blind". My savers are blind but I used few drops of loctite when the case was apart to seal the thread of the saver from the inside of the engine, against leaking.
« Last Edit: May 20, 2009, 21:47:52 pm by 181 » Logged
Diederick/DVK
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« Reply #4 on: May 20, 2009, 21:45:58 pm »

true, but i think it was jim and hurry that said something about torquing issues and reversing them...
but, i might be wrong.
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Diederick
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Jim Ratto
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« Reply #5 on: May 20, 2009, 22:04:44 pm »

originally those red seal nuts were designed to have the red seal material go against case, without a washer. However by doing that you cannot get consistent torque on probably the most important fasteners in the engine (aside from rod bolts and gland nut  Grin). Berg made mention of it on his catalogs too or in his Blue Books. Use a thick 12mm heavy hardened washer and I would run the nuts "upside down" with red seal facing outwards, and use a good coat of K2 on underside of washer. I also smear a dab of assemb lube on 12mm threads and on underside of nut to prevent any galling when doing the final torque.
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Nico86
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« Reply #6 on: May 20, 2009, 22:14:27 pm »

Quote
To use or not to use paper...

What ?









 Cheesy
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Speed-Randy
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« Reply #7 on: May 20, 2009, 22:44:03 pm »

what do you mean "you people"?
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Diederick/DVK
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« Reply #8 on: May 21, 2009, 11:12:10 am »

whoops, didn't mean to offend anyone. i guess i just mean "you" as in plural. thank you very much.  Roll Eyes
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