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Author Topic: best balanced & weld - fan  (Read 12260 times)
TiDi
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« Reply #30 on: July 29, 2009, 11:52:57 am »

I have a normal one, not welded, on my 1776 ~130Hp, and it works fine,
so my question is:
Do you realy need one?
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Sarge
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« Reply #31 on: July 29, 2009, 13:00:39 pm »


I have a normal one, not welded, on my 1776 ~130Hp, and it works fine,
so my question is:
Do you realy need one?


I don't think you do.  What do you guys think causes a fan to break?  My guess is vibration.  So, what causes the vibration?  Think about a loose flywheel on one end of a crankshaft... the pulley on the other end loosens from the harmonics sent through the crankshaft.  If you were to apply that theory to the alternator / generator, that would leave the pulley to question.  Now, lets say you don't have all ten shims either inside or outside the pulley.  The tightening nut could bottom on the shaft and allow the pulley to wobble at rpm sending harmonics down the shaft to the fan.  I've never owned a welded fan and I can assure you I've twisted up plenty of rpm over the years... but always with an OEM VW alternator pulley / fan and ten shims.  My $.02.
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DKP III
Rennsurfer
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« Reply #32 on: July 29, 2009, 13:24:34 pm »

...but always with an OEM VW alternator pulley / fan and ten shims.  My $.02.

Amen to that, brother. There lies the key.
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Liou
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« Reply #33 on: July 29, 2009, 13:40:02 pm »

Fan bugpack did have a problem my old 1776 with 48 ida for 6500 rpm in 1/8 miles but I preferd fan berg 100 % for me no problem  Wink

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Donny B.
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« Reply #34 on: July 29, 2009, 15:30:09 pm »

I exploded a non welded fan in my 1600 many years ago and it sure made a mess.  Once you have one let go you will never go with a non welded fan.  Sil Modesti welded my first fan and I have used nothing but Bergs since.  I agree that it is important to ensure that the fan is tight and straight.  One thing I do is instead of the big wavy washer I use another one of the thick spacer washers and put blue loctite in the washer.  You may wonder why, but I have had the center of the fan eaten out from it working back and forth.  Since I switched from the wavy washer I have had no problem with that.  Steve Hollingsworth told me about using the thick washer on both sides of the fan.  He said that he could never get enough contact with the wavy washer to ensure it stayed tight.
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Don Bulitta
Wolfsburg Registry
SlingShot
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« Reply #35 on: July 29, 2009, 17:52:27 pm »

Welded Fans are a must with the use of a 356 top pulley. Smaller top pulley = higher Fan RPM's
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Jeff68
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Posts: 394


« Reply #36 on: July 29, 2009, 19:01:31 pm »

Berg fan on my 2110.  In my opinion it's cheap insurance against ruining your engine.  Even the least expensive performane engine build costs a decent amount of money, 1 to 2 thousand dollars at the least and I spent quite a bit more than that.  Why would you not spend some extra money on the part that is responsible for drawing in and blowing air over your engine to cool it and make sure you have the best that you can?  The fan is such a major part of the cooling system.  I don't think this is a good item to try and save money on. Also, the stock fan was never designed to be accelerated and spun at the RPM that a high performance VW engine can.  Just my opinion.
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banditina
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WWW
« Reply #37 on: July 30, 2009, 10:29:35 am »

Today BERG inc. ship me a pack!
tnx all!!!
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Brandon Sinclair
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« Reply #38 on: July 30, 2009, 16:24:56 pm »

What is the proper way to install the fan using the hardware? 

Does it go in order the fan hub, then pulley spacer shims, then the large flat washer, the fan, the large wavy washer, and finally the nut?

I never understood if the pulley spacer shims went against the fan or underneath the big washer, then Don said he does not use the wavy washer at all.

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Zach Gomulka
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« Reply #39 on: July 30, 2009, 17:10:15 pm »

I can never remember, so I always consult Bentley.
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Donny B.
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« Reply #40 on: July 30, 2009, 18:01:33 pm »

I put a large washer on the hub then the fan then another large (thick) washer then the nut.  You may need to put shims on to position the fan correctly within the shroud.  Usually it is not necessary though.  I also put blue loctite on the washers to ensure that the fan does not move on the hub.  It can be a pain to take off, but it does not come loose.  That way the washers and the fan pretty much become one with the hub.  I have had the fan center eaten out by it moving when I used the wavy washer.
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Don Bulitta
Wolfsburg Registry
Sarge
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« Reply #41 on: July 30, 2009, 23:55:53 pm »


What is the proper way to install the fan using the hardware? 

Does it go in order the fan hub, then pulley spacer shims, then the large flat washer, the fan, the large wavy washer, and finally the nut?

I never understood if the pulley spacer shims went against the fan or underneath the big washer, then Don said he does not use the wavy washer at all.



Here's a fan layout pic out of an old Type I parts catalogue.  The book calls for six shims as opposed to "as required" for the generator pulley.  Once again, I feel the shims are the key to keeping things together and are there to move the fan in or out of the housing.  Whether they be under or on top of the fan, the thickness of the stack should be kept.
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DKP III
lawrence
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« Reply #42 on: July 31, 2009, 00:07:08 am »

Hey Sarge, get back to work Grin I bet some impatient yuppie is at your counter right now while you're in back scanning dusty old catalogs
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"Happiness is a Hot VW!"
Sarge
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« Reply #43 on: July 31, 2009, 00:13:04 am »


Hey Sarge, get back to work Grin I bet some impatient yuppie is at your counter right now while you're in back scanning dusty old catalogs


 Roll Eyes sigh.....  "So,um how much are your $3.00 parts??"   Cry 

 Grin

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DKP III
peach_
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« Reply #44 on: July 31, 2009, 00:34:13 am »


What is the proper way to install the fan using the hardware? 

Does it go in order the fan hub, then pulley spacer shims, then the large flat washer, the fan, the large wavy washer, and finally the nut?

I never understood if the pulley spacer shims went against the fan or underneath the big washer, then Don said he does not use the wavy washer at all.



Here's a fan layout pic out of an old Type I parts catalogue.  The book calls for six shims as opposed to "as required" for the generator pulley.  Once again, I feel the shims are the key to keeping things together and are there to move the fan in or out of the housing.  Whether they be under or on top of the fan, the thickness of the stack should be kept.

Sarge, Do you run a Standard size crank pulley as well? as i was gonna use a Berg power pulley with a welded fan but not so sure that i need to now?

Any advice is very helpfull

Cheers
« Last Edit: July 31, 2009, 00:35:53 am by peach_ » Logged

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Sarge
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« Reply #45 on: July 31, 2009, 02:20:39 am »


What is the proper way to install the fan using the hardware? 

Does it go in order the fan hub, then pulley spacer shims, then the large flat washer, the fan, the large wavy washer, and finally the nut?

I never understood if the pulley spacer shims went against the fan or underneath the big washer, then Don said he does not use the wavy washer at all.



Here's a fan layout pic out of an old Type I parts catalogue.  The book calls for six shims as opposed to "as required" for the generator pulley.  Once again, I feel the shims are the key to keeping things together and are there to move the fan in or out of the housing.  Whether they be under or on top of the fan, the thickness of the stack should be kept.

Sarge, Do you run a Standard size crank pulley as well? as i was gonna use a Berg power pulley with a welded fan but not so sure that i need to now?

Any advice is very helpfull

Cheers


I'm running a stock diameter Berg Equalizer with an OEM alternator pulley.  The fan is a 131-119-031 OEM piece in a "round style" early 40hp shroud with 356 / 912 Porsche oil cooler.  I ran a power pulley in my '63 years ago with a stock OEM fan and beat the snot out of it with no problems.  Have fun! Wink
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DKP III
Jim Ratto
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Posts: 7121



« Reply #46 on: July 31, 2009, 20:26:50 pm »


What is the proper way to install the fan using the hardware? 

Does it go in order the fan hub, then pulley spacer shims, then the large flat washer, the fan, the large wavy washer, and finally the nut?

I never understood if the pulley spacer shims went against the fan or underneath the big washer, then Don said he does not use the wavy washer at all.



Here's a fan layout pic out of an old Type I parts catalogue.  The book calls for six shims as opposed to "as required" for the generator pulley.  Once again, I feel the shims are the key to keeping things together and are there to move the fan in or out of the housing.  Whether they be under or on top of the fan, the thickness of the stack should be kept.

Sarge, Do you run a Standard size crank pulley as well? as i was gonna use a Berg power pulley with a welded fan but not so sure that i need to now?

Any advice is very helpfull

Cheers


I'm running a stock diameter Berg Equalizer with an OEM alternator pulley.  The fan is a 131-119-031 OEM piece in a "round style" early 40hp shroud with 356 / 912 Porsche oil cooler.  I ran a power pulley in my '63 years ago with a stock OEM fan and beat the snot out of it with no problems.  Have fun! Wink


"oh, I've got a helmet"
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lofty1971
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Posts: 225


« Reply #47 on: July 31, 2009, 22:52:22 pm »


If you're in the UK I understand that One on One do the best ones..... Wink

http://www.vwoneonone.co.uk/
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javabug
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WHAT'S UP WID DA BOOM BOOM???


« Reply #48 on: August 01, 2009, 02:32:40 am »

Any discussion on the "stock size" Berg pulley actually being slightly larger than OEM VW, and the affect this has on our fans?  I like the cooling benefit, but...?
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Mike H.

Sven was right.
alfie the monster
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« Reply #49 on: August 01, 2009, 16:41:29 pm »


If you're in the UK I understand that One on One do the best ones..... Wink

http://www.vwoneonone.co.uk/

That's what I run, and it fitted first time (unlike the Scat one) and I've had no problems  Wink
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JG54 Grunherz
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