The Cal-look Lounge

Hi,

This is my first proper engine build, and have been collecting parts and changing my mind on it for about 3 years, i starting with the idea of a 1641... then 1776, then 1955, then thought well if i'm stroking it, i'm gonna go more, so 2110 it was (although i did have 92mm thin walls for a while)

feel free to say whats rubbish or what could be better ect, i'm all ears and will welcome the help!

Here is my spec

Case - this is a used 1200 case i brought as a short block for £40 and turned out to be in great spec (1200's dont beat the cases)
i'll be porting the cases and doing the Bob Hoover mods too. its been bored and tapped very kindly by a friend who bored it off the crank centre line, not the case, so should be nice and true! tis a D code case and dual relief


Crank -CB super race, nitrided, 82mm crank, counter weighted, 8 doweled. DFL Coated


Rods - CB UNITECH HD's Bushes DFL Coated 5.4in


Bearings - Most likely DFL these too

Cam - Webcam 86B, Straight Cut gears DFL'd


Lifters/Followers - CB Performance 28mm ultra light weight


Push Rods & Tubes - Smith Brothers Alu Pushrods , Black Jaycee tubes


Barrel & Pistons - AA 90.5's (Stroker)


Heads & Rockers - CB 044's oval ported by me 40x35.5 valves with the single groove collets and dual valve springs, Bugpack Forged 1.4:1 's

This is where things start to get interesting.....
Oil System - Will blue print and flow a 26mm pump ala Bill Fisher (probably DFL too)

Fuel & Air System - Megasquirted fuel injection, TBI's off a GSXR on cut down dual carb manifolds, crank fired ignition, might try and make the flywheel the trigger

Compression - 9-9.5:1 (with 1mm of deck i'll have 9.3)

Started work on the Cylinder heads.
i'm going to un shroud the inlets first, here is what i had planned to do, roughly marked with pen to get second opinions, following the width of the valve (plus the blending) out the cylinder wall, which was marked as these are used heads (lightly)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/f09e95fe.jpg)

as you can see with the valve lifted, just how little room the air has to get past this side of the valve! it wants to make a tulip shape around it, shrouded in like this it would really struggle, poor thing!! as you can see the proposed un shrouding would give it alot more room to flow
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/116fcb08.jpg)

after more reading all over the internet, someone mentioned about some cylinders have some slight movement with heads, in particular CB ones.... ok i thought, lets try mine.... wiggle wiggle, yep about a mm! so i sat it in the head, pushed it towards the exhaust side and scored around it, this meaning my un shrouding would not under cut the cylinder regardless of position in the head... big no no.
Glad i did, as you can see in the picture..... Measure 55 times... score once, measure a few more... cut :)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/98b4ebbb.jpg)

Slowly started to remove material.......... Nervous times! But the tightest spot had 2mm clearance, now increased to 4mm, I'll now follow it toward the valve and smooth as I go :)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/582ff520.jpg)

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/16bab728.jpg)
Looks rough at the mo but all will be smoothed!

I've been spending a lot of time on the heads and have little to show for it, seems I'll have a lot of time in these heads when I'm done !

So finished the shaping on one valve, still needs smoothing, also you can see where I've started to remove sharp corners and smooth the chambers where they meet the seats, took a steady hand!!
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/da9ac732.jpg)

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/8d8abbe1.jpg)

Starting on the porting, going for an oval port, 35mmx40mm oval shape
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/dc26164c.jpg)

Standard port (ignore the drawn on bit here)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/64298ec5.jpg)

More work done, straightening work, started to lightly taper the guide
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/63b3a05b.jpg)

Similar angle on standard port
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/56aa95fc.jpg)

Needs smoothing
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/3e70e1d8.jpg)

Getting a bit more work done on the heads

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/9029ad18.jpg)

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/f709e275.jpg)

sadly my dremel broke, had it a good few years now and its been great :(

So today i've been flashing my Megasquirt ECU with the firmware it needed. had to do it on a windows laptop as i cant do it via mac, but can tune it on mac.
pleased with that.
been setting up the settings on it to run crank fired ignition, where by there is a trigger wheel mounted to the pulley, and a VR sensor, which goes to a little black box (EDIS module) then to a coil and then to my plugs..... and a wire to the ECU.
Bye bye Distributer!

the nice thing about the EDIS module is it has a limp mode. if the ECU dies or blows a fuse or what ever (unlikely) it has a preset 10 degrees BTDC limp mode so it'll still run.

been doing alot of reading on this, and taking alot of head scratching. need to do some soldering on the ECU and a few mods to it but should get there soon!

i'll be trialling this on my daily 1200..... i feel if you trial stuff on your daily, you put more effort into it working ;)

What it all means is i can sit in my car on the laptop, adjust the spark tables and pretend im in Fast and Furious....

once i've got the hang of the spark tables. it wont be such a jump to run the ignition and fuel injection on the 2110 when its done :)

-------
That was about 2yrs ago, i've since done pretty well on the spark tables and works flawlessly :)

So,
Opened up the rockers from Bugpack today. As with most parts you buy, so it seems, There is some work needed to make them work how i would want them too.

first things first, the spacers, these all need de burring, i used an oil stone on both sides then crocus polishing paper, i then did the same to the rockers and gentle polish of the shafts. after about 4hrs maybe? i'd say i'm nearly half done sorting them out and setting the side play.

i swapped in the studs they supplied as the CB ones were a different fitment. bolted them down and torqued to 18ft/lbs..... 2 out of the 4 wouldn't move at all.
they were binding on the mounting blocks on the heads..... bit of sanding and re fitting, repeat 3 times and there free again.

here you can see where it touched

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/3f92e665.jpg)

problem solved, had to do it for both sides

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/06ba1bd0.jpg)

finished product! (temporary mock up bolts btw)

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/58d3638b.jpg)

bit dull i know but building an engine seems to have LOADS of these small little details that all need sorting so you end up with something better then a cheap turnkey engine you can buy from many big retailers ;)  hopefuly anyways!! :)

mostly finished the port and chamber work on one head now! very pleased!! has taken hours and hours!!

the pics make it look a bit rubbish and un even but its the lighting.... honest :)

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/8f06e307.jpg)

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/4ee34a61.jpg)

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/090f6a0e.jpg)

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/bb94b902.jpg)

might hand finish the ports and maybe polish the chambers....

so,

Today i had a spare bit of time and i decided to mock up my crank slightly, i cant do the cam gears ect as i still need to coat my bearings.... and still need to buy the coatings... i think i'll go with DFL (Dry Film Lube) and a heat dispersant one for the heads and barrels.
i brought a counter top oven off ebay for £4 from fourlanes as a parts cooker..... it gets to 250 degrees!! melted some solder on some headlight surrounds i baked... anyway!

i fitted the number two bearing but it felt tight so removed and re tried ect, gently easing it round but not really applying any force.... eventually it dropped down but was a little stiff, i wasnt happy with this so removed it, noted a shiny spot on the bearing.

the spec:
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/B9BCEDD9-4A6B-4A18-A3B0-F138979AD46D-93-00000001ADDEA2A7.jpg)

so out with the poor mans blue.... applied, refitted the bearing, moved it round a bit and removed:
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/D71FFDD8-E1D6-4EB2-8177-8E6525B3F94B-93-00000001BB534DA0.jpg)

as you can see the spec is indeed a high spot.  so using a new razor blade i gentle dragged it over the area at a angle (like you would to apply filler)
cleaned, drew on, oiled, re checked:
getting there
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/C2C9F2E3-371D-4A01-AFD7-4DBC18FFF116-93-00000001C192E6CC.jpg)

i did this a couple times, little and often till it was totally gone and the result was the bearing moving how it should.

dont forget, new bearings are far from clean! this came out of one bearing out the box with some acetone
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/4BFA6C5B-98E5-4872-BCB5-5D945DE4A4AF-906-000000C9FE49F0C5.jpg)

gave it all a torquing to 45ft/lbs just to see.
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/2DA15771-F04B-4228-8428-69B57FC8D457-93-00000001D3F4CA2F.jpg)

all given a gentle tap to relieve any stress and all moved freely.

next job it check oil clearance, side play

i've been checking the rod bearing side clearance, bascially you dont want the bearings touching the radius on the journal.... so i penned up the radi and bolted on the rods and gave it a twist and wiggle, up and down, round and round ect ect, removed rod, check the markings to see if there was any contact, and repeat for the 4 rods

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/A5BC7A8A-AB20-494D-9899-CFD3B3712D9F-93-00000035B4F59C1E.jpg)

i did try drawing on the bearings them selves but drawing on the radius was easier and clearer

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/BE1D0388-E15A-4715-ABAD-2DE8E5D9892F-93-00000035AF797EF6.jpg)

at the same time i checked the side play, tolerance in my VW manual being 0.004 - 0.016, on all mine i could fit in a 0.012 feeler but not a 0.015 feeler so was happy with this.

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/AF03B2BD-8063-44A5-B4F6-271161A3A5BA-93-000000A3511F4173.jpg)

finally added in some little grooves so the spent oil is directed up towards the piston....

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/89B86349-0F8D-4C9A-A02E-85C8FD2EFA84-93-000000A34A3F6060.jpg)

wrapped it all up and put away as thats as far as i can get on the crank till i coat my bearings :)

more work to be done on the heads though!

DIY rod balance jig!

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/0BB96B5B-896A-4FE9-965D-3D7CB6BC4753-3630-000002A4F0C97B08.jpg)

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/E87DBE76-BC9A-45D5-99B3-E2CF3029B03B-5706-000005F0CD704A4A.jpg)

well after a fair few hours i'm done! got all the big ends all the same weight to one decimal place, then the total weights and removed weight from the little end to adjust, then rechecked and adjusted the big ends again and called it good!

a very time consuming job!
i'll try and dig out my blueprint sheet for the rod weights but here's the little ends

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/3727556C-1D3E-46ED-B612-6CD77BD78750-339-00000054E14B45BD.jpg)

and big ends

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/3EDE82ED-A706-45DE-9EBF-2A60033EACF5-339-0000005500F09CD5.jpg)

the big ends i got to near enough 0.1g differance, and the little ends are about 0.3g differance and i called it good! you can spend hours chasing 0.1g's here and there i found so called it good at where i was.

So my big ends started off at:
419.4g
417.8g
417.6g
416.3g

after a few hours they were
416.2g
416.3g
416.2g
416.3g

so i was happy with that!

i used the little ends to adjust total weight.(with bearings)
Total weight after that started at
600.9
602.8
600.4
599.7

after a while i got those to:

599.6
599.6
599.7
599.9


These are the final weights as i after doing the big ends, then little ends then adjusting big ends again i realised i would spend a life time getting them perfect, thus i settled for 0.3g variance on the total weights.
as i see it, the big ends are more important then the little end weight slightly... as the big ends contributes to the reciprocating weight and dynamic balance of the crank, and the little ends mearly go up and down so dont play AS bigger part. but still 0.3g is a good tollerance for a DIY job if you ask me.

just adding up how many times i adjusted the weights on the rods.... 25 adjustments(removing material) and checked each weight 3 times.....  :P



well i wasnt happy with my notches so re did them to give a rounded cut

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/E4F257D2-457B-4E95-815C-5578DFDAFBEC-7131-000006E29B309C5F.jpg)

using this (donated by Ade :) )

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/3A7ACFDD-DD7B-4A00-8D72-9E01C082CCD7-7131-000006E2A1401547.jpg)

much happier!

was playing with the heads today and snapped this pic to show the differance between stock chambers and mine at the same lift, not the space for the mixture to flow past the valve head

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/3CA96703-20FB-417D-8A2F-E8755C87CB30-905-000000B5E7AB9C49.jpg)

not too bad

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/7A239985-3741-48BE-88C2-42AF6F003D00-2352-0000021F4AA2E543.jpg)

i blasted a load of parts ready for coating, not a fun job!! (ignore the dry sump pump, I'm selling that in favour of a deepsump for cost)

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/67553B15-F24D-4AA4-9B06-DDCF29CD19D1-339-0000005515DCC572.jpg)

Coated my parts in DFL-1

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/EF9D9334-D934-4127-8046-ADE0B7329AFF-7203-0000058770CF11DB.jpg)

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/F9634A95-3DDA-40E8-B4BD-C4C8838B92F8-7203-000005878516345F.jpg)

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/A5C58AB2-474E-4235-916E-6E3FB194031E-7203-000005878C207B60.jpg)

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/33772432-17F9-42C0-8E19-94310567F38B-7203-0000058792CF359B.jpg)

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/D3245E87-B2E5-4C5B-8D6C-5AC29B2A88FB-7203-0000058799E2DA2D.jpg)

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/79AC70ED-93EB-4064-AA95-074201A93586-7203-00000587A09DF5EC.jpg)

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/DE34198B-AE3A-434A-A3CF-2EE5F58E9111-7203-00000587A74EA872.jpg)

Completely internally coated and you'd never know!!
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/513EE181-DA70-45C3-8C78-E8E204B2D9AE-7203-00000587B8167D46.jpg)

All lightly oiled and wrapped up till fitting time!

staring at £300 worth of crank wondering if i blast it with abrasive grit or not........

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/17B9E387-BFC5-4A7B-8030-0A437BD388C3-10690-000008114322E538.jpg)

i chose yes....... washed it in acetone a few times then spent a good while blasting it, surface prep seems very important for the coating. made sure i got every bearing face good and proper!
baking at 170 degrees for about 30 minutes to drive out any oil that may still be hiding in there! then i'll let it cool till its just warm, and i'll apply the DFL-1.

so the book reads, if you apply a DFL to one part ie bearing, it helps loads with lubrication and friction, if you coat the other it hardly improves those two factors, but makes part life alot longer......

acetoned, blasted, baked, acetoned, airlined...

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/B29AF65C-D67F-4949-87D0-D3568AE93498-11487-0000088F0A7DEFD4.jpg)

acetoned, warmed, coated, baked....

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/2BC056C5-BE39-4E23-9938-FADADC3FADBD-11487-0000088F13021C9E.jpg)

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/E48E24A3-71FD-48D3-A345-361C39790450-11487-0000088F1A760AA3.jpg)

in that second picture you can see a little bubble on one of the dowels, thats it looks like if you dont key the surface correctly (i only blasted the journals) thus its important to do proper prep!

Did some more coatings,

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/ECE29AF3-A56E-4A12-9BA4-9BF93E73264A-2919-0000026C57B13DC5.jpg)

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/71AEB156-CAF6-48DA-8BB2-F4D2CE53E7CA-2919-0000026C4FCC7469.jpg)

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/E1C57E8C-B918-49D5-B5EF-819B3B0059A3-2919-0000026C48FCCD52.jpg)

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/B06535C5-8514-4724-A648-FDC8D22F87BC-2919-0000026C36429A29.jpg)

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/F920BCEE-CE29-4264-8637-34AD0FD4DEAA-2919-0000026C2F4155B3.jpg)

You can easily see in some areas where I didn't key the surface and it bubbled, keying properly is vital for this stuff it seems! ( the bubbled over spray will be removed before fitting)

Also drilled some holes in the heads to aid in flow over the exhaust, at the moment it's just a pocket, but with the holes (will be smoothed) the air can flow through.

Holes
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/48FCD23F-DB95-4DF5-B7B5-12DDBDA72833-2919-0000026C16C81E5F.jpg)

Left hand pockets, you can see a glint of light

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/E9A14DDC-9A28-4135-AAE6-6A727047FCAA-2919-0000026C21010DBF.jpg)

my cases being cut, note the step.

(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af204/bren16v/8B7BC4FC-D841-4E81-AFEB-5757FE4A3B23-6470-000001F70D72C186.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af204/bren16v/786D56CF-1222-4246-83E1-F4840CA4BFD0-6470-000001F8264F7174.jpg)

Beautiful machining
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/D1193E00-A4EB-405B-8A96-8663B5AF17E0-1391-0000010671FB27D7.jpg)

Started on a few case mods:

Widening the drain hole where the crank seal is by 1mm and also widening this drain path
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/0AEE316C-E4CF-42B5-9CA4-5C789C072CFA-1391-0000010687B8F828.jpg)

And widening the cam oil ways
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/5CE52354-9F11-40E3-B8C3-5CECCF7CE5C9-1391-00000106A490B52F.jpg)

Before I could do any more or go over my exsisting with a sanding roll, smoke started coming from my drill :(

Also been spending alot of time removing the paint. Soda blasting would be ideal but can't find soda in mass cheaply :(

here's my injection side of things :)

the sizes started like this, this is the gsxr TBI and standard non offset twin carb manifolds i got off the samba very cheap (thus i wouldn't mind hacking them up)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/EB725EA7-D890-4B27-9E66-8B2341AEBD6D.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/EB725EA7-D890-4B27-9E66-8B2341AEBD6D.jpg.html)

after some hacksawing and angle grinding i'm about here

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/cd5fcde9-72f5-49b0-91b4-ae7be229baa9.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/cd5fcde9-72f5-49b0-91b4-ae7be229baa9.jpg.html)

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/EA70E09B-3F52-417A-A34F-04108138B360.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/EA70E09B-3F52-417A-A34F-04108138B360.jpg.html)

i want to mock up a very basic long block and pop a shroud on just to check clearance before i fix them to the manifolds :)

well, spent a good few hours on the engine today, didn't really get all that far but its a lot of checking, re assemble, check, disassemble ect, forgetting something, going back ect, hey ho!

Today the weather was rubbish so i worked indoors,

case ready to accept a crank

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/3F15F3AF-2951-4250-834C-39514DD86058.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/3F15F3AF-2951-4250-834C-39514DD86058.jpg.html)



i wanted to make sure the oil holes lined up with the oil grooves on the bearings, so i marked where the oil hole was on the case, then copied that to the bearing once fitted, i also marked where the channel on the bearing goes..

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/C332611A-B09E-4921-AAA7-30C1A225B257.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/C332611A-B09E-4921-AAA7-30C1A225B257.jpg.html)

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/E4348DAE-1276-4716-B128-B79899D5E5F2.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/E4348DAE-1276-4716-B128-B79899D5E5F2.jpg.html)

i then marked on the bearing where to open the groove up a bit so it would make full use of the oil hole and not close it off by 30-50%

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/B98F9C42-B032-405F-9782-7AC45D3E2B5A.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/B98F9C42-B032-405F-9782-7AC45D3E2B5A.jpg.html)

and took out a little material with a handy little cordless dremel i got from Lidls (£20)

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/737B3125-B2F9-40BB-BE66-70EA13AF8379.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/737B3125-B2F9-40BB-BE66-70EA13AF8379.jpg.html)

i did that to the two full bearings (the little one at the back didn't need doing as the hole is small to act as a restrictor i'm guessing. the centre main (half bearing) was lined up fine as is

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/B48D7C91-B0D6-4C48-B990-2F9B04E863F8.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/B48D7C91-B0D6-4C48-B990-2F9B04E863F8.jpg.html)

popped in the crankshaft and it spins smooth as silk! fitted my dry sump pulley (small!) so i could rotate it whilst pushing to forward to see if i had any clearance issues with jus the crank and i was ok, some parts were close but easily over 1mm so no worries.

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/B7F2EF5D-37B0-4A69-84BA-EC243A0754EC.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/B7F2EF5D-37B0-4A69-84BA-EC243A0754EC.jpg.html)



i slowly torqued up the main bolts, starting with the middle to, then two by the flywheel, then the pulley side and started at 9ft lbs, then 16, then 23, checking after each nut was adjusted for smoothness, happily, everything was silky smooth! and spun very freely.

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/615CA0EF-FCE7-4342-876B-C84D1B81BF37.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/615CA0EF-FCE7-4342-876B-C84D1B81BF37.jpg.html)

i for see some clearancing needed pretty easily, as although the crank is on there and clears fine, theres no way a rod will clear, this area i can't even get part of baby finger in, and a rod needs to sit in there too.... i expected this, but it's going to take me a while and lots of grinding, cleaning, testing, grinding, cleaning testing....

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/77E0B26D-B431-4091-8954-B7A48E671E24.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/77E0B26D-B431-4091-8954-B7A48E671E24.jpg.html)

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/5142A0AD-30BB-4CA8-B803-149C250558FD.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/5142A0AD-30BB-4CA8-B803-149C250558FD.jpg.html)

This would have occurred today, only when i went to fit a rod i realised i'd used my rod bearings i'd coated on another engine... DOH!

i then set about starting to smooth off an sharp edges and the air channels, again that will take a good few hours of work with the dremel and flap wheel!.

i moved on to having another look at my rockers as i think something isn't quite square, they were binding at certain points, but i'll have to dig out an engineers square to check that over.

spent a few hours on the rockers this afternoon/tonight.

There Bugpack 1.4 ratio rockers, i got a great deal on them new, not seen any reports of them failing and they look study.... but! they are far from "bolt on" i've had to spent hours getting these to be bind free and with the correct side clearances! also following the trend of the build.... these are DFL coated (surprise huh? ;) )

so i decided to start again, measured one half's shims... the kit is mainly supplied with shims all of the same thickness (well as much as a cheap set of rockers can offer) i believe the CB sets come with different shims... but you pay more

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/9F16D68F-7CD1-4F4D-A032-058FFDDCB698.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/9F16D68F-7CD1-4F4D-A032-058FFDDCB698.jpg.html)

i was aiming for between 0.005 and 0.007 inches, which for me was about .127 and .178 mm off the top of my head, why can't things all be metric? i work on seakings at work and there in inches.... does my head in! anyway.... with my feelers, i aimed for about .13mm-.15mm which is low to mid tolerance.

This took hours of measuring (see pic) removing, sanding shims, cleaning, refitting... repeating. i'd be putting it off as its a dull task but glad its done now,

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/A05F9D53-4DAF-49AF-8DE5-BDA201BD7328.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/A05F9D53-4DAF-49AF-8DE5-BDA201BD7328.jpg.html)

which gave me these rather unexciting looking items, but it felt good to get it done!

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/BD961C00-899A-494D-AEBF-910D5ECAD8F9.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/BD961C00-899A-494D-AEBF-910D5ECAD8F9.jpg.html)


also worth noting the heads need some clearancing where the rocker blocks are, i might have even got away with this by shimming the rockers but won't know till i get a cam and look at cam geometry....

We'll came back from the vw show with a webcam 86b after chatting to the guy from stateside tuning.
Also ordered a set of his single springs for it. He said they are made using technology from the motorbike world, I forgot the maker. Basically normal duals fade and need replacing but these only fade 1-2% in the time that a set of duals is way past it.... Also less spring pressure, less wear, less heat but better valve train!

I do need to run lightweight ish valve train though. 40x35mm valves help here, will have to sort Alu pushrods, they had smith brothers ones there they recommended, but at £125 they'll have to wait or find a cheaper alturnitive.

Will set about deburing the cam this week and start checking end play on it ect.

Need to check my main bearings too as I had a small patch that had gone copper colour from contact during mock up which will need attention. Spun smoothly which is odd...

CCing heads.... @ 1ml at a time (only syringe i have handy) taking a while!

after buying a new syringe and adapting my measuring method and disk (was having problems with air bubbles trapped in there) there both 57cc within less then 1cc of each other on one head.... 
Takes a while as i measured them about 5 times each to rule out a whack reading!

All 57cc within one cc tolerance, happy with that! with 1mm or 0.040 of deck that gives me 9.3:1 compression ratio, and with the webcam 86B they say 9-9.5 so i'm happy with that!!

Had a go at stroker clearancing the case, mounted one rod, one jug and one piston without rings and marked a few areas where the rod bolts contacted, was quite a juggle holding it all together and a few swear words where said!
Trying to balance the case, crank, knock in piston pin and line up the main bearings to there dowels...

I coughed up the £30 something for an engine stand!

I've heard that instead of using a barrel and piston you an use rubber bands through the little end and secured to the head studs to center the rod through its movement, will buy some thick rubber bands and give it a whirl.

Just a long process of assembly, marking, removal of crank and piston And barrel, grind, clean, repeat...

Will pop some pics up this week, I cheated a bit and just copied one spigot to the next. Will assemble again soon to check and once all the rough work is done it will be sanded smooth.

Can then move onto checking if the rods clear the cam....
I must say the cb unitech hd plus rods don't need as much clearance work in the case as I'd have thought....

Spoke to Stateside Tuning whom i brought the cam and single springs off of, i brought a set of CB performance ultra lightweight followers with a 28mm head (less weight then larger head as isn't needed on this cam) and also a set of Smith Brothers aluminium pushrods, so £279 lighter i'm pretty much there on parts for the long block... if anyone is interested in prices on a build like this i have a tally somewhere....

Engine Build Cost

Cases - £40
Crank & Rods - £370
Heads - £400
Megasquirt ECU - £80
Cam Gear - £70
Rockers - £125
Cam - £95
Tinware - £8(pulley tin)
Pushrod tubes £80
Main bearings £45
Cam bearings £14
Rod bearings £13
Lifters £120
Barrels and pistons £110
pushrods £150


Total £1720

i popped into my local "sell everything" shop today and brought some flap wheels to help with the stroker clearancing to smooth it all over, some barrel brushed for the cleaning of the galleys and a M10x1.5 bottoming tap to chase the head stud holes although i ended up just using a head stud in the end!


Got a few jobs done (pics later)

clearanced one half of the case (still need to two areas but won't be able to see those till its bolted together.

Honed the cylinders and now degreasing them for the 3rd time before carb cleaner, baking to dry, then painting them with a matt paint designed for wood burners (so radiates heat well i believe) should stop flash rusting at least!

been bout 5-6 hrs work today doing that, mostly all taken up stroker clearancing, its a slow job and each rod hits in about 3/4 places per half, then once its burred out it needs smoothing with the flap wheel. i brought some fairly big flap wheel, mine are about 50/60mm at a guess, maybe something 20/30mm would have been better but hey ho!

To stroker clearance, the rod has to be in its normal position as it would be in the engine, meaning you have to install a barrel and piston, this was quite a lot of faff and extra hassle, more to clean and less vision for me to see where and what needed work.
Then i remembered someone saying to use rubber bands instead..... picture paints a thousand words, i moved the crank about and sure enough, it stays centred (needs equal amount and type of bands) will double check it once i've done them all with a barrel and piston, but this saves a lot of time and helps you to be able to see the area to clearance a lot better!!

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/EA1AB80C-32CF-4038-A249-846A95148604.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/EA1AB80C-32CF-4038-A249-846A95148604.jpg.html)



its hard to show, but the rod bolt head hits on both sides of the spigot (already cleared a bit)

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/9970E713-F8CC-46CE-B1AD-FE68A53DA34A.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/9970E713-F8CC-46CE-B1AD-FE68A53DA34A.jpg.html)

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/212839C9-7605-406E-B0D0-D5354B7D3447.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/212839C9-7605-406E-B0D0-D5354B7D3447.jpg.html)

and then the side of the rod hits the roof of the case.... so clearance is need here.

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/92ED4B88-C01E-4ADC-A5EC-98ED1C2D8EC3.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/92ED4B88-C01E-4ADC-A5EC-98ED1C2D8EC3.jpg.html)

and also the bottom of the rod will hit the opposite side of the case on the left hand side of the spigot as you look in, but that will come later in the job after i have don't the above to both sides, here is where i am so far (VERY MESSY)

Bit of part porn for you.

these are the CB Ultralight weight lifters with 28mm head. nicely finished and feel light, they are a two part design ( think, where the inner is held in with a cir clip.... worries me a bit but there meant to be great so won't dwell on it!

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/BC2B7920-23FB-4F92-A998-551B1AC72369.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/BC2B7920-23FB-4F92-A998-551B1AC72369.jpg.html)

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/EA3635B1-9997-4F55-9178-85F3CFD664D9.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/EA3635B1-9997-4F55-9178-85F3CFD664D9.jpg.html)

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/B11DA89D-F0BF-4464-880F-F96D64632F83.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/B11DA89D-F0BF-4464-880F-F96D64632F83.jpg.html)

and these are probably my favourite part of the engine in terms of quality from the brought parts, i did have some bug pack HD alu push rods but quality wasn't great, with the tips being different shapes.
These are made by SmithBrothers and the finish is absolutely beautiful!!

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/4889E465-1C38-42B2-9AFB-B6335DA64FA8.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/4889E465-1C38-42B2-9AFB-B6335DA64FA8.jpg.html)

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/F1BF05AE-450C-4A6F-A19C-A3147DE1C4FB.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/F1BF05AE-450C-4A6F-A19C-A3147DE1C4FB.jpg.html)

the lifters all weight 71.8 grams

 i gave the Bob Hoover drilling a go.... it is a tough one to choose as you can all but ruin a case if your case is machined wrong or you mis calculate....

Longggg drill bit borrowed from Ady (thank you!)

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/A4E3086D-4D8C-4820-ABBB-BA37E9B4FF77.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/A4E3086D-4D8C-4820-ABBB-BA37E9B4FF77.jpg.html)

after measuring about 5 times, then about 5 more i marked with pen where i wanted to drill to, so it would be on the safer side, the black dot in the cam bearing area was helpfully the correct distance of where the oil galley opening is on the case (thanks used vw case)

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/3F6D540E-1640-4BB9-8587-F44271941FCA.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/3F6D540E-1640-4BB9-8587-F44271941FCA.jpg.html)


would stop here or a tad before

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/8986F6E5-0F8A-4210-8C86-89C49C9C3E2C.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/8986F6E5-0F8A-4210-8C86-89C49C9C3E2C.jpg.html)

i took Ady's tip and canted the drill bit up a tad to air on the side of caution. made my drilling, stopping half way to recheck as it felt like a fair old distance!

hard to pic
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/318C9129-C7A7-4C77-8EC5-E1F13A79DC79.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/318C9129-C7A7-4C77-8EC5-E1F13A79DC79.jpg.html)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/21D73BEB-22AA-4F22-92AF-A8C3E1EC73C5.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/21D73BEB-22AA-4F22-92AF-A8C3E1EC73C5.jpg.html)

you don't know its its right till you do the vertical drilling

i used a small 2mm drill to make a pilot hole down the oil galley on the cam tower, and again canted it at an angle towards the rear of the case to play it a bit safer, again i'd marked the drill bit where it should pop through and sure enough it did (although i did check to make sure it wasn't popping out the side of the case!)
i then opened this up with a short 5mm drill bit and again... checked i hadn't busted it!
here is a dowel with yellow tape on to show it better, you can see the hole is slightly off centre, this was to play it a tad safer!

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/72D79359-DE48-44DF-BF50-F5FBF51DE61E.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/72D79359-DE48-44DF-BF50-F5FBF51DE61E.jpg.html)

happy days :)

carred on with stroker clearancing the other side of the case, no pics yet as its just a copy of the other side, i mated them together and stencilled the cut side so they matched. once this side is all smoothed off i'll clean the case a bit as its covered in a thick layer of swaff and i'll trial fit the crank again to see where i need to clearance, i think it'll need work on the rods down ward stroke, BDC on the back of the rod, by where the head stud drillings are but we'll see!

Well, thats 2 years of work posted up  ;D

Awesome and inspiring Andy.  Good luck finishing it off.
Cheers
Stuart

Thanks bud, very kind :)

More stroker clearancing today!

i started on the cam tower part, here was my issue

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/62BF75C1-9CA4-459C-85C5-41CAD3C4DA79.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/62BF75C1-9CA4-459C-85C5-41CAD3C4DA79.jpg.html)

and here was the solution

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/2DD7A02A-BCFE-437F-A743-1FA4912032CC.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/2DD7A02A-BCFE-437F-A743-1FA4912032CC.jpg.html)

got 1mm of clearance with the crank pushed forward and the rod pulled back. then mirrored this on the other half of the case, i haven't put them together yet to try the back part of the rod on the down stroke, will need to clean the cases very well before that which is time consuming but next on the list!

smoothed out another rod notch to have some clearance

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/F388B5D7-23D6-4F14-9E46-75C2B0FF3A53.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/F388B5D7-23D6-4F14-9E46-75C2B0FF3A53.jpg.html)

i looked at where the oil from cam gear drains back to the sump and it was such a small hole, maybe 7mm? so i've started opening that up a bit more to allow better drain back, as the rear relief piston also bypasses to this area (although thinking about it, the rear piston donesnt bypass into the sump, just bypasses the cooler?)

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/FA4DD3B5-1DCC-425B-97E4-E7284F89DF60.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/FA4DD3B5-1DCC-425B-97E4-E7284F89DF60.jpg.html)

that'll be smoothed.

i've also started thinking about windage, i was thinking of either making two small baffle windage trays, one for either side to cover "slosh" flying up these holes

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/ACE12530-61B4-4B86-93E3-C4B70C345E5C.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/ACE12530-61B4-4B86-93E3-C4B70C345E5C.jpg.html)

but i'm also thinking of making some windage pushrod tube extensions AKA Tom Wilsons book. or both so it covers oil slung up from the top by the crank and also slosh in corners...
making the windage tray small like this should prevent any issues people say about drain back.

something like this http://wheelerdealer-blog.blogspot.co.uk/2012/10/formel-vau-style-windage-tray.html

Any thoughts?

Put the case halfs together to see where the bottom of the rods would hit, first place it hit was the boss for the head studs on both sides
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/C9F1412E-0F6A-4FFC-AB37-288A76E54F13.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/C9F1412E-0F6A-4FFC-AB37-288A76E54F13.jpg.html)

Took a bit out.... Still needs more...
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/4D75FC17-AB8E-4474-AC0A-41E6679A3FF0.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/4D75FC17-AB8E-4474-AC0A-41E6679A3FF0.jpg.html)

Will build it up again having sanded some more off and see where I'm at, then repeat for the other 3. Fair few hr in this case!

thought i'd sorted it... but it still hits, having to remove pretty much all the "step" area you see in the case boing, just about to refit the crank again to check it and see what clearance i have....

finally got it to this stage

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/D0C8C46B-D1BC-41BF-BD9D-4E0C11403690.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/D0C8C46B-D1BC-41BF-BD9D-4E0C11403690.jpg.html)

Good clearance on the back of the head stud boss

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/5466F9AC-796C-406A-8E63-4A8EA5CE3B51.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/5466F9AC-796C-406A-8E63-4A8EA5CE3B51.jpg.html)

here i started to copy the clearance to the other areas... starting with a cylinder shape burr

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/41C68E12-97B5-45E6-B701-D7D75A596AAF.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/41C68E12-97B5-45E6-B701-D7D75A596AAF.jpg.html)

then smoothing with a flap wheel

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/964B35CC-086A-4DF7-8246-7A3D740ED50C.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/964B35CC-086A-4DF7-8246-7A3D740ED50C.jpg.html)

having copied that on all for rods it was time for cleaning!

today was a cleaning day, i went through all the oil ways and cam bored, bolt threads ect with brushes and paraffin then carb cleaner,
i think gave it a good spray with degreaser, and hosed off and left to dry in the sun,  looked bit bare and ready to corrode like this as it was very dry ( if that makes sense, so i gave it a coat in paraffin  and looks nice!

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/1BA3C436-2062-445F-9377-C4D6AC98D6D9.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/1BA3C436-2062-445F-9377-C4D6AC98D6D9.jpg.html)

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/B1D2FE86-9146-4E15-9285-0479B9A61A17.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/B1D2FE86-9146-4E15-9285-0479B9A61A17.jpg.html)

D code.... just a innocent 1200... honest

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/160D8F8F-63EA-416B-BBA6-3C068D975E3D.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/160D8F8F-63EA-416B-BBA6-3C068D975E3D.jpg.html)

I found this method for checking deck hieght to be the best with my selection if tools

Put a block of "metal" under anvil of dial indicator (on top pf piston) and gently seated it under (against) angle as far up compression stroke as it would move... Set dial indicator at "0", back off piston and removed metal block, bring piston up to TDC and the difference shown on dial indicator is your deck height...

I checked it with my feelers and works well!

Been a long emotional day!!

started off measuring the deck height with my 2mm spacers in the barrels and a newly made deck height tool (patent pending ;) )

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/7A292A3C-46BE-4847-9414-11599081ABF1.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/7A292A3C-46BE-4847-9414-11599081ABF1.jpg.html)

;)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/A54F0C96-4311-4ED7-932B-3F1E5C2F42F2.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/A54F0C96-4311-4ED7-932B-3F1E5C2F42F2.jpg.html)

This proved a much better method and was giving good solid reading on the dial gauge.

Sit the nut under the dial and the flat, spin the crank to get the nut stopping the piston on the flat (gently) hit ZERO on the dial gauge, then lower the piston, remove the nut, and bring it back up, when at TDC (easy to read using the gauge) thats your deck height.

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/E7A38FDA-BC8F-4609-8480-0D4AA802C292.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/E7A38FDA-BC8F-4609-8480-0D4AA802C292.jpg.html)

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/E47483DB-B076-4371-953C-B6424E250F2A.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/E47483DB-B076-4371-953C-B6424E250F2A.jpg.html)

so both 3&4 side had a deck of 0.04-0.03mm happy, would need a 1mm spacer to add in to get my desired deck and compression ratio!

moved onto number one and fitted the plate, when to turn it over but the piston hit the plate.... this is with the 2mm shim installed..... panic!
i changed the shim, then barrel, then piston, then rod and still the same result! pondered it over for a bit and then decided i'd check number 2.... same issue, i was getting 0.5mm positive deck, but at least they were both the same on this side and it was a good round number!
i fitted my 1.5mm barrel shims to these two barrels and it gave me my desired deck, happy days!!well, close enough!

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/BB23F04E-0710-4E23-8B28-233B9BE637CF.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/BB23F04E-0710-4E23-8B28-233B9BE637CF.jpg.html)

so now i need to swap my two spare 1.5mm spacers for 1mm ones for the other side and the deck will be set! i'm guessing this is due to the crank bore in the cases not being central from the factory..?

Also did a quick mock up to see what my ITBs would clear like, and i've got LOADS of room!! even with a standard non 36hp shroud so that makes my life easier as i can run a good VW twin port shroud now and not a scat one ;) (although i like the looks!)

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/A5C91214-296C-4925-A78D-09CF19E7C27B.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/A5C91214-296C-4925-A78D-09CF19E7C27B.jpg.html)

Mocking up the manifolds

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/0AC2CB28-4555-4F41-AC0E-7E6C4E51447F.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/0AC2CB28-4555-4F41-AC0E-7E6C4E51447F.jpg.html)

I'm going to use the carb/itb rubber flanges off bikes to attach these

Reusing a couple of OG VW pieces

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/FE175FDD-E5BA-404C-9579-26D0EC2522ED.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/FE175FDD-E5BA-404C-9579-26D0EC2522ED.jpg.html)

Heated the gears up to 250C in my £4 ebay counter top parts oven and they slipped on a treat to become solid when cooled!
the snap ring was a bugga! glad i used the tape on the bearing surface.

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/8B82DA90-30CC-4222-90A3-E2EB7AB06D21.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/8B82DA90-30CC-4222-90A3-E2EB7AB06D21.jpg.html)

Before anyone says, no i haven't forgotten about the bearing ;) i figured seeing as i needed it built up without bearings for balancing, and i didn't want to faff with pulling them off ( i don't own a puller) i remembered reading about using a split bearing same as No 2 in the No 3 location, and VW did this for engines going to cold climates i believe, don't know why they did for that reason, maybe i got my wires crossed, then i notice Gene Berg does it also.

out with an old bearing, drill a 5mm hole through the dowel drilling to act as a template.

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/2C9A8EDF-D50F-471C-A87F-43676B94C9AC.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/2C9A8EDF-D50F-471C-A87F-43676B94C9AC.jpg.html)

i then fitted the other split bearing in the other case half, torqued it up to centre the bearings, then split the case again, started drilling and checking for dowel height.
i noticed this dowel pulls out easier then the original ones so i secured it in with a smear or epoxy metal for good measure, not that it can go anywhere anyways. i guess next time, drill it to 4.5mm and deem to size.

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/4903B049-718A-42A7-884C-4746E2538E71.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/4903B049-718A-42A7-884C-4746E2538E71.jpg.html)

Thats about all for now, but at least now i can bolt on my cam's gear and start to look at rod clearance, lift, geometry ect :)

cam to lifter clearance is plenty (well over 1mm) and the lifters fall slowly under their own weight when oiled with no side play

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/F403E042-C1E0-48AC-BAF7-35BFFB9D5407.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/F403E042-C1E0-48AC-BAF7-35BFFB9D5407.jpg.html)

the cam is pretty tight on the thrust bearing so some work is needed there....

Set my cam end play in one half to 0.05mm which is 0.002" ish which I saw recommended.

I then also checked my rod to cam clearance in that half if the case, all atleast 0.75mm so happy with that!

On to the next half of the case for another 2 hrs work ;)

Also sourced a 200mm flywheel I'll use as my trigger then have it refaced. And a set of 10mm studs, both German :) for £40 posted so not too bad


Things are close but mostly ok

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/985155A1-E6AC-4130-869C-2FCDB6681286.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/985155A1-E6AC-4130-869C-2FCDB6681286.jpg.html)

Just my number 2 rod came a little too close for comfort, I think it may have had the lightest big end so had the least removed maybe... Or just the way it goes, but I used a burr to remove just enough material.

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/D535F34A-C2EF-4AA8-A1FC-A0C373386D78.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/D535F34A-C2EF-4AA8-A1FC-A0C373386D78.jpg.html)

After this I sanded it smooth with a sanding roll so its nice and shiny and free from any marks that could cause cracks to form...

That's pretty much my clearance stuff done for the short block....

Things left to do.

Clean
Sort out flywheel trigger and end play.
Buy a clutch and decide on a pulley (thinking stock) and get it balanced (about £130)
Cut the pushrods to length or chicken out and have them cut.
Sort rocker geo and shim springs.
Mock up and start on the cooling, oil system (forgot, need a oil pump an blueprint it)
Finish up the fuel injection.

It felt close, till I wrote that list ..... ;)

So, with windage in mind,

i'll be using a small sump, thinking 1.5 litres? as its a daily driver, stock height and some dodgy roads, i don't want to smack the bottom off.

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/9C77EE73-02C8-44C6-82D3-BD54D5ACD3C8.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/9C77EE73-02C8-44C6-82D3-BD54D5ACD3C8.jpg.html)

not too high

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/BB758F8F-1619-4E4B-BCFE-F9617C28D12F.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/BB758F8F-1619-4E4B-BCFE-F9617C28D12F.jpg.html)

and all the way to the bottom

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/8C9B69BB-1DF1-4B92-8B85-74B74B5F49EF.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/8C9B69BB-1DF1-4B92-8B85-74B74B5F49EF.jpg.html)

i was going to make this out of thin steel sheet, over aluminium due to possible vibration cracking?

Cheers

Isn't that just going to slow the oil down from getting back into the sump?  There are some pretty slim sumps out there with decent capacity if you are worried about ground clearance

Richie

i really don't know to be honest with you.... to a degree yes i suppose it will?

i was thinking of a 1.5 litter sump.

ground clearance is my issue yeah, I'm still at stock height but with the farm lanes ect i go down i kind have to stay that way.

i'm mostly worried about the oil sloshing in  spirited driving. maybe i'm worrying too much but i like my bug to corner well and enjoy a good twisty... am i worrying too much about a non issue you think? and would be fine with a sump?

Cheers!

Well....

Recently i brought on ebay a set of new stroker barrel and pistons, one piston was listed as being cracked, and matey had brought them from VWH 3 years ago so too late to return, i bid as i thought i could use the new barrels instead of my used ones... £35 posted won it.

Just now inspecting them and trying my hardest to find the crack that was mentioned..... hmmmm.
There was a few casting marks that maybe could be mistaken as a crack.

so i go back to the ebay add, and see which piston is pictured as cracked (has a green mark on it) go back and look at said piston and see some casting marks, and on the machined part where the pin enters, i see a mark which lines up with the casting flash.

i start to get excited here...

the "crack" turns out to be a slight mark from where a cir clip was removed which polished out with 3 strokes of some polishing cloth..... So it seems i have a brand new set of stoker barrel and pistons for £35.... i was going to pay that much for new piston rings anyway, so technically free!
not only that but they had been trial assembled, and still had the spacers stuck to the bottom, each one has a 0.5mm spacer and 5.5mm spacer, so now instead of buying a set of 1mm spacers and only using two, i'll just stack two 0.5mm spacers on the two barrels that needed it.... that saved me another £15!

What a day!!

But what i want to know is, those barrels and pistons are designed for 82mm cranks to give near spot on deck (i need spacers as mine had to be faced to remove corrosion) and i need 3.5mm/3mm spacers.... what bloody crank was he using that needed 6mm of spacers!

So, popped the pistons out the cylinders, and took the rings off, set them aside for another day to check ring gaps.

i weighed the pistons with their pins fitted and had these results

A - 461.3g
B - 462.1g
C - 461.4g
D - 460.8g

so overall difference of 1.3g which isn't bad! i weighed them all 3 times to get a good result.

i then removed & weighed their respective pins

A - 112.2g
B - 112.5g
C - 112.7g
D - 112.0g

with a little jiggery pokery and swapping of pins i finally same to these weights

A - 461.4g
B - 461.3g
C - 461.2g
D - 461.1g

so difference of 0.3g, which i'm happy with.

i wonder how much Ti pins would cost? (keep dreaming)

next jobs are too check the ring gaps, and then start of rocker geo and push rod sizing.... actually getting somewhere! oh and check deck height again.

Well, got a few jobs done lately and a couple parts lined up, got another flywheel to use, just got it soaking to clean up at the min and will then get the 8 dowel treatment and made into a crank trigger wheel which will in turn lighten it a bit.
Also lined up some 10mm head studs (Thanks Ade!)

so, checked over the rod oil clearances

used a little Vaseline to hold the plastigauge in place, torqued them up then removed. was a bit tricky holding it still but once you get it snug it sort of locks in position as it squashes the plastigauge.

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/5B0C47E4-0486-4693-B2D0-52D60F046621.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/5B0C47E4-0486-4693-B2D0-52D60F046621.jpg.html)

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/0D333396-89D7-4E20-A9A3-7B6187399844.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/0D333396-89D7-4E20-A9A3-7B6187399844.jpg.html)

Between 0.001 and 0.0017 ICNH which i'm happy with, from what i read you want to aim for 0.0008 - 0.0028 INCH.

i then check the number two split and the number three split bearings with the plastisgauge.
Bearing clearance for bearing two is  .001" - .0035" i got 0.002 INCH

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/8C198E1A-AF4E-4EEE-8FCB-F97A85B68FAD_1.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/8C198E1A-AF4E-4EEE-8FCB-F97A85B68FAD_1.jpg.html)

and number 3 calls for .0016" - .004" clearance and i got 0.003 INCH

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/6D778B3A-7DD0-4014-9C90-4333994EA76E_1.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/6D778B3A-7DD0-4014-9C90-4333994EA76E_1.jpg.html)

Both my split bearings are internal groove thus the non uniform look on the plastigauge. (i used another number 2 bearing in the number 3 place)


Next i checked the deck of the 3&4 side with the new spacers i had (came with my new barrels and pistons) this gave me a deck of 1.17mm so my compression ratio varies by 0.1 across the board which I'm happy with :)

Then today i got a cool delivery :)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/8E10AA5E-77E9-462F-8480-201ABC286F5B.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/8E10AA5E-77E9-462F-8480-201ABC286F5B.jpg.html)

i polished up the lash cap tops using 1200grit and crocus paper

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/A3B1B1A4-2177-4373-9C62-F44815FB9328.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/A3B1B1A4-2177-4373-9C62-F44815FB9328.jpg.html)

and i started blueprinting the pump by removing the endplay, starting at 400 grit, then 600, then 800, then lost the will to live and called it good ;)

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/921CFE15-9D3E-4A8C-A2B7-58D664C44267.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/921CFE15-9D3E-4A8C-A2B7-58D664C44267.jpg.html)

next i'll port the pump following my Tom Wilson book, and then i'll DFL coat it i think, along with the lash caps and rod bearings.

So thats it for now!!

feels like it coming together a bit more now which is nice!

Beautiful ghetto black....

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/86C0A9DF-6A0D-4867-B22B-59556B3F80DD.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/86C0A9DF-6A0D-4867-B22B-59556B3F80DD.jpg.html)

(http://anpu.kuvat.fi/kuvat/kupla/27052013146.jpg/_img900.jpg)
 My bucpack 1.25 rockers screws after 200 km. I changed them to Scats screws, no problem after that.

Looks like the BP HD pushrods too if i'm right? think it was them mushrooming then pounding the cap or just that the screws weren't hard enough/wrong shape??

cheers :)

Jep they were BP HD pushrods, other 7 was fine but all the screws was damaged. Screws wasn't hard enough, i know at least one other car that had same problem with the screws. My engine was 1835 engle w-120 with 043 heads single hd springs.

Where did you find your replacement screws? Cheers for the heads up mate :)

So to update, got my flywheel 8 doweled today and got that fitted after a bit of loving.

Also got a Porsche 911 fan and alternator coming.... just need the rest of the kit  :o

next up will be another mock up build and working out where to drill my flywheel to act as my crank trigger :) cool stuff!

Hi,

Love your build, and the detailed write-up.

Not that you know me from Adam, but,
I would recommend you remove the valve guides for some more porting.

If the heads are decently fresh, the guides can be pushed 'up out of the way', to be pressed back in place later.

When the guides are in the way, it is impossible to get the shape of the port right.
Ideally, an even taper from throttle butterfly to valve seat....

Some recommend widening the port slightly as it flows around the guide.

With the rest of the work done here, seems a shame to leave a stone un-turned at this point!
 :)

Cheers buddy,
it's my first time build and nothing fancy, budget orientated in my little shed (and girlfriends kitchen table when she's out!)

do you mean to remove the lump around the guide in the port? so its all smooth? (i don't mean the lump in the roof of the port for the springs)

cheers bud!

Saw this and couldn't resist... Here comes post #2...
 ;D

For any real porting to take place, the guides have to me moved out of the way.
If the heads have some miles on them, they are core drilled and driven clear out and tossed.

Often, porting is done to new heads, so the guides can be pushed towards the spring area, enough to get them out of the way so porting can be done.
Then, after your porting is finished, the guides get pushed back into place.

It's easier than re-installing them completely from scratch.
They are less likely to 'smear' and take material from the guide boss/hole that way.

When porting an intake, your goal is an even taper from your Butterfly to the seat.
The cross-sectional area of the port should shrink evenly as it drops down.
This is tricky when you have to pass the valve stem and guide, so the port will be 'widened' as it goes around the guide boss.
It's also prudent to thin the cross-sectional area of the guide boss' streamline it, so the air flows around.
Often, bigger ports won't have an intake guide boss at all.
The exhaust guide boss is needed for strength, and resist the exhaust guide coming loose.

When I port a set of heads, I make up some cardboard 'paddles' - kind of go/no go little round spoon looking things to stick up in the port.
Essentially a gauge, to show exactly how much material is removed from where in the port.
I might mark a line on the stem of the paddle to get it in the port the exact same depth each time.
The round spoon ends of the gauge are sized for a given area, say right next to the guide with a small one,
Or a big one, big as an, er, teaspoon, sometimes, to stick into the port this way and that, to make sure I have them all exactly the same as I can get them.

Once you make up some of these cardboard gauges, you can start seeing how your ports are 'necking down', or having areas with smaller diameter than is ideal.
Then you can see where to remove material...

It also helps to finger-bang as many pro-ported heads as you possibly can.
After you have done a couple of sets of them, you will never look at a set of heads at the swap meet the same again.
There are a lot of them done badly for sure...

Another thing is to get the 'bowl' area under the valve seat matched to the ID of the seat, but there's more.
If you can't make this bowl area shaped like an, er, bowl, and it starts taking a turn right after the seat, you will flow a lot less.
Just like you are unshrouding the chambers to allow flow around the valve head as it opens, you want room on the other, stem-side of the valve, too.
There is what they call the 'flow cone' around the valve, and it needs a bit of a straight shot as the seat meets the port.


Hope this all makes the foggiest bit of sense... bla bla bla...

Suffice it to say that the old adage "horsepower is in the heads" has proven itself to be true IMHO.
Time spent getting those heads _right_ might just be the biggest thing you could do to make power.

See if you can't maybe borrow a head off of someone that was done right that you could have sitting on the bench to copy while you port...

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/da9ac732.jpg)

This pic right here ^^^^^^

The 'bowl' area under the seat is small and constricting.
All of that material under the seat there, in a big ring, needs ported away.
And the guide is right there in the way!

Because you have already made the other side of the port, where the manifold bolts on, bigger, the 'bowl area is under-sized relative to the upper part of the port.
You kind of 'have to' open up the rest of the port to match now! ;D

In the 'bowl' area, the far side of the turn it makes is known as the 'long side radius'.
This is a good place to increase the size of the port.
(But only if the guide is out of the way)

And, as it's been said elsewhere, you also want to be 'straightening' the shot the port makes as it comes in; so you can see more of the back of the intake valve when you look into the port.
At least on the intake side...

Often, the guides will be shortened, and tapered at the valve end to reduce their cross-section sticking in the way.

Here's a guy who really shows how to work this stuff:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=482095&highlight=vallero (http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=482095&highlight=vallero)

My local auto parts place (FLAPS) has an automotive machine shop in back, and they pushed the guides out of my last set of heads for cheap.

Hope this helps. Don't mean to come across as a know-it-all or a nag.

Your build is really over the top, what with coatings and balance and.....
Opening that _One_ little spot in the heads would really un-cork her!
It's like a restrictor plate otherwise... I can't help but pipe up.. and on... :D

Cheers buddy.

i know what your saying totally.

thing that worries me is how to push the guid back a bit safely?

Cheers :)

So a quick update,

I slotted my lifters to add to the Hoover mods so they are now complete barring the rocker shafts but given my style of rocker that won't matter.

Started to mock up for a test of how long my pushrods need to be and start to look at valve geo as well to see where i am with that.

also found a porsche shroud for sale on an online shop speedster clinic, they mainly do 356 kits. but took the plunge and ordered it.

Also got my last few bits coming from RJ Volks, whom have looked after me very well and i would defiantly go back for any parts i needed!

Hopefuly get a bit further along! Oh i've also touched base with Matt Keane about getting my assembly dynamically balanced, also a tad nervous about my crank i DFL'd, it'll either be amazing! or i'll be tearing it apart to re polish and new bearings, no biggie either way to me, but you don't know if you don't try right??

i've kept a running tally of engine costs to build for the parts and currently at £2234, there is probably other sundries ect and tools and bits i've forgot that thats my tally thus far, should come in under £2500 all done.... although its spread over about 3 years  ::)

cheers :)

Double checked my decks, i'm getting 1.1mm on one side and 1.2mm on the other, which i'm happy with, i could try and sand down the shims to get them both on 1mm but i'm happy with them.

Hopefuly later i'll mock up with a soft spring on an inlet valve and work out my pushrod lengths and cut those. can also work out my geo as well which does confuse me some what at the minute.

Do i just set it at half at the valve, (using DTI) then look to see if the foot on the rocker is in a flat line parallel to the rocker gasket face, with the adjuster end?

Also how far in or out should i have my adjuster when i choose pushrod length?

Cheers :)

Hi Andy

keep at it :)

Have you tried swapping pistons around in different holes? often they have different individual deck heights and you can make it closer that way

cheers Richie

Cheers pal,
No not since i got these new pistons in ,could be worth a shot, is 0.1mm worth worrying about would you say?
its free to try so may as well... :)

For a mild engine it probably wont make much difference but as you say swapping them around to check is free so worth doing :)  Even consider getting the pistons machined by the difference to make it 100%

cheers Richie

Hi,
I'll try and swap pistons around to cure it, can also try swapping rods I guess to try that also.
Again that's only time, then can always get them turned down a tad to get it bob on, would be a shame not to now I've been thinking about it.
Dropped you an email earlier about adding another bit to my order ;)

Cheers!

Changed one and two and got 0.02mm of a change in deck, thinking sliming might be good bet if the other two don't show much change

Noticed one of my inlet valves was warped.... erhhhhh!  ::) when shining a torch down i could see a sliver of light and it would move around like a light house as i rotated the valves, i tried other valves in this seat and it was fine, i also tried the valve in other seats and it did the same... another order in.
Also my shroud that arrived turned out to be 240mm (i did ask to make sure it was 260mm) so thats been sent back.

not been an amazing week for engine building but shit happens eh?  ;D

Market is full of cheap, no name brand stainless steel valves. Seen this a lot lately, most of them are not
ground concentric to the valve stem. Worst of them are 2-piece, stem and valve head are friction welded
and welding is covered with swirl polish. Buyer beware....just recently got a set of brand new "stainless"
38mm exhaust valves. Noticed small specks of rust just on the swirl polished area...

Pekka 

This is a CB single groove valve but the heads are lightly used....

I'd been putting off engine work as its cold and dark so early at the moment here.

but finally made up a little holding jig for my DTI so i can check valve geo. just out of a bit of angle aluminium i had in the shed.

as it turns out apparently i lucked in on my setup and i have good geo out the box, which made a change!

this is max lift, in mm and inch, which i worked out that my rockers are 1:42 ratio so pretty close to 1:4!

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/8D0A72CC-66A0-4684-A42D-2420C70B3B49.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/8D0A72CC-66A0-4684-A42D-2420C70B3B49.jpg.html)

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/AEB322A2-427A-401D-B6A8-A598EAA5DF6A.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/AEB322A2-427A-401D-B6A8-A598EAA5DF6A.jpg.html)

and this is half lift which where i checked my pushrod VS adjuster angle and its as straight as i can tell which is a good thing, and the lift pad seems to be in the middle of the lash cap (again a good thing)

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/D811A3BD-3953-4853-BD22-91326DC5A20D.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/D811A3BD-3953-4853-BD22-91326DC5A20D.jpg.html)

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/A6205BBC-C23A-49EE-8A6D-3ADDFF60FE8C.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/A6205BBC-C23A-49EE-8A6D-3ADDFF60FE8C.jpg.html)

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/05447A98-CBA9-4E83-8E1C-CC8FCC53BE70.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/05447A98-CBA9-4E83-8E1C-CC8FCC53BE70.jpg.html)

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/8596EEC5-463C-4474-9740-9FE90759A5EF.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/8596EEC5-463C-4474-9740-9FE90759A5EF.jpg.html)

And having coloured in the lash cap with black marker (poor mans machinist blue) it showed i had a good swipe pattern also! which to be honest i was surprised about!

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/05CDAD48-35A3-4CF1-828A-070D8427D15C.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/05CDAD48-35A3-4CF1-828A-070D8427D15C.jpg.html)

So next is to re check the side play on the rockers and try and track down some side play shims (the shafts are 19.3mm which is bigger then stock )

And also to start marking my flywheel up to drill to act as a trigger wheel....

Then measure crank endplay and order some shims, and drop it off with Matt Keane to get it balanced!

looks good!
you ll be happy when its finished

Thanks!
Tell me about it!!  ;D while driving my 1200 i keep imagining what it would be like having more power on tap!
Its my first build and its by no means a high price build for this kind of size, but it should make me smile!

Loving this build..

FWIW, my head guy puts the valves in the valve grinder to true them up, even new ones.
It was interesting to see new valves 'touch off' in a spot first, before getting ground a bit and hitting all around.

So,
Maybe try and have your bad valve ground, and it might actually be save-able.
And,
If you get a new one, have it chucked up and touched off first.
This is SOP at any FLAPS that does machine work, regardless of what kind of cars they do.

Ever port the bowls out on those heads?
If you aren't up to having the guides moved out of the way,
You might do well to use a smaller tool, like a Dremel, and do your best to smooth the transition under that seat area...

I know how it goes with 'Enough Is Enough';
You could literally go on forever with these things.
Comes a point where it has to go together...

FWIW, I *love* my 86b-cammed motor.
It's only a 1914, but has large hairy balls that swing side-to-side slow like a pendulum.
Big and badass down low, and evil up top too; All-around gnarly.
You'll see what I mean...

So from that I put that rocker on the base of the cam which I could see nicely through the sump plate hole and measured my 0.6mm lash and locked off my pushrod and checked about 7 times, removed the rockers and adjustable pushrod and measured it out. Came to 274mm,
So laid out my pushrod and measured about 20 times before putting on a blob of marker pen then scoring into that.
Then started slowly on my pipe cutter. The first one too takes but the next 3 were quicker as I got used to how it was cutting ect.
4 down tonight and leaving it for tomorrow to finish, but hard on the hands!
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/B66AEF9B-3F02-4B9A-ACAD-1E3B960468F1.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/B66AEF9B-3F02-4B9A-ACAD-1E3B960468F1.jpg.html)

Hello,

Yeah I don't blame him, I'm supprised as these wads I brought with 400miles on them, must have ran terrible like that...

I've already ordered another bit can see if this one can be trued and kept as a spare maybe... Ill ask around and see what the locals are charging :)

No not yet, kind of like you say. If I get the guides done and I'd replace them, then get them reamed ect and it'll add to the cost a fair bit, so decided if I end up ready to roll an just waitin on my shroud I'll do what your saying and port more with a small Dremel tool, are you just removing the boss essentially??

Good to hear on the 86b! I hear its a lot like an fk8 just a tad better on the valve train and maybe comes on a tad sooner or broader... Who know but can't wait!
I think it should drive nice! Too much power low down is hard to be smooth with as small throttle openings do big things! I find that on my dirt bike and you end up feathering the clutch a lot to compensate and smooth the power where you need to be smooth (single 540cc enduro bike)

Cheers :)

Just realised I set my vales to 0.06mm which is 0.002 inch
Total brain fart!!
Wants to be 0.006in or 0.15mm.... Oh well thank fook for adjusters!

So moving on from that lol

I cut all my pushrods, need to tide them up, clean them out and assemble them.

This morning I cleaned the mating surface between the crank and flywheel, put the scat 36mm bolt on as tight as I could with a normal 12in ish rachet and checked run out, I got 0.06mm on the outer surface. Which is 0.002in and I'm happy with that goin by john mahyer's site as it's the same as his 2110 he is writing about building too.

Checked my end play with no shims and I get 1.18mm

But do I need the flywheel torqued to spec to check these or as tight as I can with a rachet enough for checks? Ill torque it to spec before I order any end play shims. But for the purpose of run out this seems ok :)

my latest efforts...

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/AED72642-77D5-4E16-AD7A-FAB9D8DA6830.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/AED72642-77D5-4E16-AD7A-FAB9D8DA6830.jpg.html)

drilled to be a trigger wheel :) just needs finishing

trigger wheel all done

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/3BCFA0B7-72BA-4FF9-B69F-71093F6BEE21.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/3BCFA0B7-72BA-4FF9-B69F-71093F6BEE21.jpg.html)

next job is double check all my my stroker clearance and send it off for balancing!

Set my oil pump engaugment today, aircooled.net recommended .225in-.285in so I set mine at .275

You fit the pump, when you insert the top gear I clocked it 90degrees out of alignment with the slot in the cam, then measured how proud it was, this gives engaugment depth.

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/B779A013-CB43-450F-9714-AB13AF2847AD.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/B779A013-CB43-450F-9714-AB13AF2847AD.jpg.html)

Also flushed my pushrods with a solvent and air line after finishing and lightly chamfering the inner to remove any burrs.
Hope to fit the tips later by using two bits of wood with a drilling in them to locat the tips nicely.

I know a lot of people use old lifters and I may revert to that but want to try a softer route first!

Got my push rods finished up today, I didn't realise I needed to deepen the counter bore on them so after the first one I learnt my lesson! But hey ho! No chance of gettin the tip out after trying for an hr.

Then I re checked my stroker clearance and did a little more on the back side of number two rod (where it gets close to the case, I didn't clearance the rod)

Stripped it down again and will fit my full flow fitting to the case after I clearance for that too.

Also checked cam bolt to oil pump clearance and that needs work also, I shaved the rear of the pump but it still kisses, it's the writing on the bolt heads. So will file those down to remove the writing, then take 1/2mm extra I think.

Next on the list is get it the rotating stuff balanced.
Then do another wet mock up and set the crank endplay, and hopefuly have a porsche shroud by then so I can mock up that my ITB linkage and mount those, work out the bugs ect.

Hopefuly I'm getting close!!

I've also decided I'll buy a thermostat sandwich plate from mocal to go on my filter head. To my setrab cooler and in the return line from that, an 80c fan switch for a fan I'm yet to buy :)
I'll get the thermostat plate that opens at 80 also.
This mean no oil cooler action untill 80 so hopefuly quicker warm up for driving in "sunny cornwall"
I also do fairly short journeys for work too.

It's coming along! Which is good as my 1200 is getting pretty clanky!!

Andy,

You can get allen button bolts for the cam gear that give a lot more clearance if you want a simpler option

cheers Richie

The button head bolts are also (I think......) about the lightest bolt style you can get too.
I used them everywhere on my project dragbike and saved 4kg, just in bolts, over the normal hex bolt.
Think of the saving in rotational weight!  :D

Cheers guys,

I got these

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/BBA9E490-00C8-480B-81B8-038A34B3560D.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/BBA9E490-00C8-480B-81B8-038A34B3560D.jpg.html)

That came with my cb gears, I only used the bolts as they came with the cam... And there an odd size allen head, something like 5.5mm?? Imperial?

Yeah, them.  ;)
7/32?

i take them into work tomorrow, the helicopters i work on are in the devils scale ;)

Finally an update :)

So, tracked down a fan shroud for the porsche fan from Jussin on here, can't wait to get it!

Secondly, i found a chap in cornwall who does engine balancing, "Full Engine Balancing Service" Peter Williams, we spent about an hr chatting, he road races a MK2 escort and builds some pretty special engines for them, also had some BMW M3 stuff in, but a true car guy! after speaking to him i knew he was my kinda guy!

anyway, he sent me these pictures, so i thought i'd share them, he balanced it by each component not just as a whole.

Crank and front pulley balanced

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/5E731CCF-5CBC-4DD4-AF9D-245ADF3F28CF.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/5E731CCF-5CBC-4DD4-AF9D-245ADF3F28CF.jpg.html)

finished balanced weight of the crank and front pulley

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/6243BEF1-FC49-4EE5-8A5F-8440C9009E05.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/6243BEF1-FC49-4EE5-8A5F-8440C9009E05.jpg.html)

This is when he added my flywheel... way off!!

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/AD181411-E0FD-4597-A9F8-A72E8FF7E97D.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/AD181411-E0FD-4597-A9F8-A72E8FF7E97D.jpg.html)

this is the flywheel balanced

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/F573037F-9C03-406D-B58D-A11278DD4986.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/F573037F-9C03-406D-B58D-A11278DD4986.jpg.html)

here it is ready to all be balanced

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/8DF12751-9B82-4345-B04D-71D285C38BC8.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/8DF12751-9B82-4345-B04D-71D285C38BC8.jpg.html)

What he removed from the paper light front pulley to get it to his exact standards (light weight scat power pulley)

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/883CC02A-43DB-4F6C-8DBD-B2B4DFDA4354.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/883CC02A-43DB-4F6C-8DBD-B2B4DFDA4354.jpg.html)

here is what he removed from the clutch, he said this part was pretty close out the box (kennedy stage 1)

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/798F824E-01CD-42D2-A0C7-A367F14BA9D1.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/798F824E-01CD-42D2-A0C7-A367F14BA9D1.jpg.html)

and this is he final results of the balance job with all parts bolted on

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/8979D253-4B20-4C14-923B-4CDDE3CFFEFA.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/8979D253-4B20-4C14-923B-4CDDE3CFFEFA.jpg.html)

MY pistons were close, something like 0.3-0.4gram between them but i brought that down to 0.1gram today.

also installed and checked the low profile allen bolts for the cam gear, they now clear nicely.

Also ground down and test fitted my full flow fitting, that went well and will be sealed when the engine is nearer completion so i can put it at the right angle i want.

things left to do,

Set the end play on the crank, will need to get some shims for that i think!

clean the shit out of the case, then test fit the barrels and head to set the height for the head studs, and locktite those in place, probably blue.

debating wether to drill and tap the case where the pump would normally feed to, my pump is blocked but unsure wether to do the case too... the hole is 11.8mm, so not sure what to thread it to.

buy another split centre main bearing, due to needing two sets for my crank and one is a scuffed to the copper.

choose and buy what i will use as assembly lube and also case sealant.

then its clean, clean and dean and start to build the long block!

So got a bit more done today,

Doing a mock build, minus valves and push rods (will do those tomorrow) so i can test fit my 911 shroud and start shaping that to fit around my manifolds, being fibreglass its easy to shape with a burr in a drill. also did some match porting on my manifolds.

tomorrow i'll build up the heads and install the push rods and turn it over a few times just to check everything is working as it should!

i also brought a block of aluminium to make a bypass block out of to bolt where my stock cooler will go. so will start that soon.

i also brought some T3 cool tins to work with my 911 shroud and have been trimming those and the behind pulley tin to fit..

Still need to buy a sidewinder exhaust, thinking 1 5/8in over 1 1/2in.

So also most the final build stage, just need to buy break in oil and lubes and sealant and i can start building for the final time! then work out the fuel systems and oil systems ect.

Getting there!

I have to do the same. In between getting a cheap bypass adaptor block and looking at the stock doghouse mounting block, I'm thinking I might make up my own out of 90* tubing bends brazed to an angle-plate for mounting. I don't like the idea of the sudden right angled turn in the middle of the block (just me, I'm sure it will be OK on the day so to speak? Dunno........).

You're miles ahead of me mate, all I've managed to do is get the pistons machined and ready and order some cheap conrods to get ready for working over when they get here.

I have been working on it for a good few years mind ;)
I know what your saying, and the cheap bypass blocks are pretty low I thought, making the sharp turn you mentioned, the block of ally I brought is 38mm deep and I plan to drill two holes 30mm into it where the in and out are for the engine case, then join them up, making a large slot, so will essentially be a 30mm deep slot between the two holes. If that makes sense...
And it only cost me £7 to buy ;)

Yeah, me too!  :D

Making progress!
I brought a 25litre pale of "gun wash" think its thinners, and 30litre tub and cleaned the case well! (Looks pretty dry now though...?)
I test fitted the head studs and checked depth with a barrel and head then blue locktited them in place.
Next I cleaned the crank and again, locktited its little galley plugs in place.
Applied millers assembly lube to the side of my cleaned lifters and dropped them in, webcam cam lubed the faces (thick stuff!)
Layed in the cam bearings and applied lube, bolted cam gear to cam and locktited that again... Dropped that in.

Lubed and torqued the rods to the crank, laid that in its bearings in the left hand case half and ran out of time here!

Will finish up some more tomorrow.

Thinks not to forget:
Main bolt o rings!
Cam plug!

I also them painted the installed parts with a mix of oil and stp to stop them rusting.

I'll do the case too as it looks so dry!

Some pics!

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/ED40C629-C4A9-4D32-8194-2CEA2AB0A2BE.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/ED40C629-C4A9-4D32-8194-2CEA2AB0A2BE.jpg.html)

Slot to dot!

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/86FC2CEE-56E3-4B1C-9A08-9D48A0F75193.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/86FC2CEE-56E3-4B1C-9A08-9D48A0F75193.jpg.html)

And dot to dots
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/7C02342D-4C87-497A-B6AB-BC13078E367B.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/7C02342D-4C87-497A-B6AB-BC13078E367B.jpg.html)

Very sticky that webcam stuff!!
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/89528375-80EB-47FD-A9E3-1E5BD15CCAEB.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/89528375-80EB-47FD-A9E3-1E5BD15CCAEB.jpg.html)

So having got the short block together.

Today I soaked the heads in thinners and have them another scrub (feeling worse for wear!)
Put assembly lube on the valve stems and put my .060 valve shims in place and set to work fitting the collets and retainers... Bit fiddly but so much easier with these springs instead of doubles!
Once done I put a blob of cam lube on the valve tips and pushed my lash caps on.

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/A80535B7-0BDC-4929-905C-C9F33DBF609D.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/A80535B7-0BDC-4929-905C-C9F33DBF609D.jpg.html)

While the heads were soaking I set about cleaning my barrels and pistons and the ring (amazing how much black stuff was on the rings!)
Check the ring gap and came out at .4mm so spot on.
I also spent some time polishing the pins and bosses to make them a nice slide fit with lube.

Next I stuck on my barrel shims on with Curil and fitted the pistons to them.
Then spent ages trying to get the pins through the little ends, two went first try and the other two took ages to get the right angle!
Fitted my true arc clips and slid them home!

Bolted the heads down in the two step method that vw reccomend (start in a set order with 7ft/lbs then another order for the final torque) and that's the long block pretty much done!
Need to bolt up the rockers and fine tune the side play.
Set the crank end play and I'm pretty much there!

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/78FEDB31-2216-44D5-9DED-3FD668194E5D.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/78FEDB31-2216-44D5-9DED-3FD668194E5D.jpg.html)

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/A49486BF-DC14-4E5D-A8DE-E092199E1D05.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/A49486BF-DC14-4E5D-A8DE-E092199E1D05.jpg.html)

Got a bit more done,

measured my endplay (flywheel @100 ft/lbs) with no shims and got 0.96mm and ordered up 0.88mm of shims, 1x .24 and 2x .32 shims, giving me 0.08mm of end play... hopefully!

dented my pulley tin so it clears the full flow fitting and the pulley

Cleaned the fitted up my rockers, getting the side play down as low as possible.

set the valves to .15mm and put on some new valve covers (stock) and bails which are nice the tight fitting!

thats pretty much it on the long block!

need to make my own oil cooler bypass out of ally block i have ready and marked out. and need to make a fuel pump block off and a dizzy plug.... (or buy one)

fit up the stock tinware and a stock 34 pict 3 rejetted so i can run it in without worrying about a new FI system ect, then convert over to FI and 911 cooling :)  bit less pressure!

Also ordered up a modal sandwich plate with a thermostat so i'm getting close!

Hi Andy

is that end play really 0.08mm?  or thou? I think that's to tight for a performance engine, I set them at 0.06 -0.08 THOU   so 0.15-0.2mm[ hope I got that right in conversion]

 0.12mm would be absolute tightest I would run. Don't want to spoil all your good work now ;)


cheers Richie

I always run 0.10-0.12 never lower!

Oh right...? Stock specs are 0.07mm to 0.13mm
Which is .002-.005" ish.

BUT I guess this isn't a stock engine ;)

So if I've got a .24 shim and two .32 shims to get another .04 I'd want to swap those two 32's for 30's I guess :) I'll give coolair a ring today and try and change that order :)

Giving me .12mm or 0.0047"

Cheers guys could have been a nasty mistake there!

You are still going to be right on tight side, I would get 2 more .24 and 2 .30 so you can measure it together & swap around to get it right, and you will probably find you need to de burr the edges of them all as they always seem to have lip where they stamp them out  ::)

cheers Richie

Cheers buddy, in the end (read this after changing my order)
I ordered 2x 0.24 1x 0.34 1x 0.36
 So with two 24's and a 36 I'd have a total of .84 stick and free play of .12 or with the 34 instead of the .36 I'd have .14mm.....

As you say I'll check for burrs and to see if they are what they say are...
We'll see and I'll report back!
Thanks very much guys :)

So, This had been playing in my head and had some helpful advice from here too (thanks guys)

i upped the torque on the crank bolt to 270lbs using the torque tool its really easy, it was at 100.
Rechecked my measurements about 25 times (literally) about 20 times it was 0.97mm and 5 it was 0.98mm (maybe it was rounding up as this gauge goes to two DP)

So with that extra 0.01mm it stands me at 0.15mm end play with the two .24mm and a .34mm i have coming, IF once i deburr and measure the shims they are thicker, i'll have to swap some as i'm not going to go below 0.15mm AKA the Webb theory ;) if they turn out thinner i'll still be safe.

Although the more i think about it, i'll most likely swap some anyway to get more into the middle range Richie  was saying....

Better to be safe for me and let more oil flow through, also I personally don't think it is so critical to keep it tight on EFI engines, on engine with dizzy crank moving backward and forward might affect timing as gears move but not on crank trigger engines

cheers Richie

Thats a good point, as it slides it'll want to spin the gear a tad... could be a few degrees between pinging and not.

when you think about it, its kind of an odd place to put the thrust, in terms of oil, if it was inside the crank case it would get slash fed as well as run off from the bearings, if it was on number 2 or 3 anyways. i'm sure there move positives to it being where it is though!

0.11mm....  ::) going to double triple check that i don't have any over night corrosion on the flywheel face (doubtful) by giving it a light polish and check again.

i de burred the shims before even attempting a measure. they're just thicker then their marked  :-[ that was with the 24,24,34 combo so i need to swap that 34 for a 30. they were all a bit bigger then what they said, so if the .30mm is actually .30 i'll have more free play which is ok! tempted to pop by a local vw place and see if they have any up there i can swap/buy before ordering some.

started making my oil cooler bypass today also, the ally is harder then i thought! don't know what grade it was but it claimed two thin drill bits!

started like this

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/C9AF9FAC-9846-48D0-8C51-6C9E9AC6897A.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/C9AF9FAC-9846-48D0-8C51-6C9E9AC6897A.jpg.html)

and ended today like this

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/6A6825B2-3B88-45D2-8D0A-AD34A4765B5C.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/6A6825B2-3B88-45D2-8D0A-AD34A4765B5C.jpg.html)

Mounting holes cut (need to enlarge two to 8mm for the larger holes i think but will double check) and the "slot" is rough cut at the minute so will get in there with my burrs and make that horrible mess into a nice smooth slot for the oil to flow.

was thinking of a paper gasket or just Curil that i used for the case or blue holymer that i also have....

I put 3 thin ones in envelope for you,  just going to PO now with them :)


On that oil cooler block off how are you going to drill it so oil passes through it still?

cheers Richie

Thank you very much! Very kind of you! Can I give you anything for them?

Where the horrible messy looki bit is now... Those holes are 20mm deep an I'll turn that into a slot like the by-pass plates you see for sale. Just need to fire up the Dremel mill later...
That'll join the in and out of the case in a nice non restrictive mannor. I'll find a link

http://www.fastfabonline.com/Oil-Cooler-Block-off-Plates_c_37.html

Like those^^

No they are free :)

that makes sense on block off, there is a gasket available that should fit then

cheers Richie 

Thanks Richie! very kind :)

yeah the gasket with the slotted centre section (i'll probably make one from gasket material anyways)

it's coming along nice with the dremel, will pop up some pics tomorrow  ;D

Just for a twin port manifold to source, fit up the tin ware and wait on a main jet to arrive.... i'm pretty much there..... scary! then pop it in the car, hook up a VR sensor (forgot, need to make a mount for that) and i'm good to go!

Clutch alignment tool arrived along with my 165main jet I need for the 34pict 3 to run it in.
Got to sorce a cheap exhaust to tide me over till I save up for a sidewinder (I really fancy a gutted stock exhaust) and a twinport manifold. And I'm done!

Starting with a thanks to Richie! Very kindly gave my some shims so now my endplay is 0.16mm which I'm happy with :)

Installed a flywheel oil seal and seated it down so its recessed in a bit. Put some grease around the outside to help it slide in smoothly. Then applied good amounts of assembly lube on the lip of the seal and mounted my flywheel with lube on the seal surface.

My clutch tool arrived so now once I've torqued the nut I an bolt on the clutch plate.

Next question
What torque shall I put on the 36mm scat unit, looks well made. Got a torque tool so can easily apply large amounts to it....

Got a a few final bits from Richie today a dizzy block off with AN10 top and a fuel block off. Both of which will act as my only breathers when I got porsche cooled.
And a rear peice of tin :)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/DC32FF2D-08B6-4CB6-8EFA-2542BCA1DF39.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/DC32FF2D-08B6-4CB6-8EFA-2542BCA1DF39.jpg.html)

And the block off is getting there for the cooler ( needs some weight loss and smoothing)

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/Mobile%20Uploads/A399D3A0-D35C-4CED-A9C0-6CD796EEC8F9.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/Mobile%20Uploads/A399D3A0-D35C-4CED-A9C0-6CD796EEC8F9.jpg.html)
Getting close!

Off to change the rear dampeners on an audi a2 now...

Cool it all arrived ok and endplay sounds better now :)

I wouldn't have used grease on seal to get it in, think that will just help it come out but who knows

I torque those Scat gland nuts to 450lbs/ft

cheers Richie

That's a good point... I'll keep an eye on it!
I'll get her done up to 450! Mocked up some tinware today and nearly there! Just need an exhaust now !
I did put the porsche shroud on.... I can't wait to see that working!

Got it all together and in the car, brought a cheap hideaway to run it in with.... That didn't fit, the muffler had been chopped and moved so it wouldn't work with my header.... So on went the stinger. I've never heard one before..... Wow :(

So put in the break in oil and the filter and when I came back I already had a leak :(

I'd forgotten one of the brass plugs right by the bottom left stud (passenger side) I found this after if taken the flywheel and clutch off... And removed the engine.

Next the carb kept flooding as the float valve wasn't rated as high as my current 1200's one and it didn't like my facet pump.... Switched that over and away I went.
Going well, got to the 3 minute mark and the carb started to pop back. Stopped checked over the carb and it was ok. Timining can't shift so was happy that was ok.
Started it back up and it was ok again, minute or two latter it starts ups again and I'm greeted by a puddle of oil on the floor (I'd been in the car watching the rev gauge and oil light. Shut it down.
The bolt On the end of the rocker shaft had come loose, rocker slipped off enough to loose the lash cap and bend the pushrod on number 2 inlet and kick out the push rod tube....
So straightened the push rod, checked it all over and got it back and happy. Started it back up and did my 20 mins between 2000 and 2500 rpm. Went to lower the rpm to around a 1000 but it dropped to 500 then I blipped it back up, but the oil light came on when it dropped so shut it off, dumped the oil and collected my thoughts!!

Feeling truely gutted. Spent years collecting parts and slowly working on this engine.

Thoughts :
I need a new push rod but there from stateside tuning, think there smith brothers? Will ask tomorrow if Stateside will sell me 1 instead of a set of 8 at about £120 :(
The oil came out kinda brown which I don't get.... Flash rust on the crank? I painted in oil and washed the poop out of everything! Maybe it's just me.
The oil light flashin on.... Wondering if this is just as it dropped too low on the rpm or if I did  have enough oil in it? Although it still had 4.5litres in it....
Also is this something that'll just be a minor glitch or will this be the start of the end for that engine...

Hopefully tomorrow brings something good!!
Put a new filter on and 5 litres of millers competition 10-50 oil.
Will see if I can get it idling tomorrow... I don't think the 86b likes a single carb!
Its a 34pict 3 with no venturi and a 160 main(on advice from a chap to runs the same)

Hay Andy

I know it's disheartening but try to keep with it. You've come this far and it's only time and money to get it sorted. When ever I see an engine have problems on a stand or a car on a dyno, I always think to myself "could have been a whole lot worse if it happened in the fast lane of the motorway, foot to the floor".

Said the same thing to my mate that had a valve guide come loose during break-in and bent a valve (all new items too).

Did you manage to get it idling and test the oil pressure ?

If it was easy, we'd all be doing it !!
Darren

Cheers buddy.

That is true!

Got it idling at 1500 rpm but it won't go any lower without dying out yet, which I think must be the idle circuit on the carb.... As it runs and pulls beautifully other then that!

The stinger is crazy loud though! Kinda makes you giggle!

Going to try another oil switch I have laying around and also order a new one, not sure where to get a cheap screw in oil pressure gauge tester... I dont trust my gauge really...  The ones I've seen don't have very good resolution at low pressures seem to start at higher pressures...

Need to contract stateside about new pushrods.
Ordered a quiet pack exhaust.

Hoping the oil pressure is a switch issue, it was just a switching had on and old case of unknown status so....

Also fixed a small oil leak from a full flow fitting on the return part.

We'll see!

Thinking it over, my oil clearances were good, pump was good, did the Hoover mods for more oiling (so maybe lower pressure from that)

My thoughts are:
Duff oil switch
Oil control valve stuck down maybe from the drilling and plugging, might be a burr or something that's snagged it or....
Restrictive full flow fitting in the return to the case...?

Those are the order I'm going to test things, will see if my at club at work have an oil tester, can hook up my electronic one just to test but I doubt its low pressure accuracy, as it used to flat line at low rpm when hot on my 1200 but the light never used to come on before I swapped it for the gauge, thus my uncertainty of it!

tried a new pressure switch today.... similar.

its ok on start up, after a short 5-10 minute drive it will come on under about 1250rpm.

going to try and find a proper gauge to double check

on the plus side i stripped and sprayed my single quiet pack today and that can go on today and i don't have to worry about getting nicked on base by the MOD police on my test drives!  ;D

still thinking relief valve, or maybe sandwich plate issue as its when it gets warm... or that return fitting.

I will fix it, and i will enjoy it  ;D

From experience they'll just think of something else, so you may as well enjoy it anyway!
 ;)

There's mod police and there's the navy reggies whom eat their own young  ;D

Fitted the quiet pack today and it does what it says on the tin! probably only last a year but i like it, for an EMPI unit it fits VERY well and it actually a good well thought out kit! and £85.
can now hear the cheeky whine of the straight cuts which makes me smile!

i'm also thinking on the oil front, that it could be all the hoover mods etc will lower my pressure, more flow, less pressure. but will inspect the relief plunger first!

the down side of the quiet pack is you hear every little noise!

Thankfully stateside do sell them singularly!! So got two pushrods coming in te post

I've got some pinging to tune out of my ignition map later either from the new quiet pack or I can just hear it now :)

Andy

I wouldn't be running it all until finding the problem, stock oil pressure light is only about 3psi and if its coming on then it probably has low oil pressure all the time, at least get some sort of gauge on it to see what it is roughly
Fingers crossed its something simple like a plunger sticking


cheers Richie

X2! Stop running it until you have proper oil pressure. It is after all what keep our engines alive. Check the oil pump lid clearance as well. Super critical!

-BB-

i'll get it up on ramps tomorrow and check the pressure relief plunger, i could stick my oil pressure gauge on it but i doubt its very accurate, would at least give a rough indication though. and i'll order a pressure gauge test set.

could it be related to the hoover mods and oiling mods giving more flow thus less pressure do you think?

The pump i sanded flat and then set the endplay with the thin gasket, is that what you mean?

cheers

Andy

well i didn't want to wait, popped the car up and took out the plug (deep sump gets in the way) screw fell out, spring fell out about a litre of oil fell out but no plunger.....
That was jammed hard at the bottom of its bore (open position) tried tapping it up but it wouldn't budge with a hand tapping a screw driver so i ran a tap up inside the plunger which gripped enough for me to wiggle it out.

it was a little rough cast looking so polished it up (sadly i didn't have the nicer one i polished up with me) after a while of that testing it etc i put it back together, started it up and gave 2bar 29psi at idle of about 750rpm (cold)
driving it i get about 1bar 14.5psi per 1000rpm up to about 3.5BAR where it seems to steady out nicely up to about 4.5k rpm (wet and horrible weather to test much more)

idle was holding about 1bar which dropped to about half a bar after some more driving but i doubt the low pressure accuracy of this cheap electric gauge i have, so got a test gauge on order. with this gauge i found it flat lined on my old 1200 at warm idle but it wouldn't turn on the oil light. thus my doubts of it.

But looks like a easy fix hopefully! will fit the nicer plunger at the next oil change and double check it all.

i also adjusted the ignition map and now it will idle at about 900rpm and hold it well, bit higher at times but not much and it is a 34pict 3 feeding a big cam etc so i'm not expecting much till i go FI soon...

Fingers crossed thats it!

As a reference Andy I got 85psi at 2500rpm cold, 45 psi at idle [900-1000 rpm ] cold on the project 67 engine, hot about 65psi at cruising[ 3200-3500rpm] and 35psi at idle[ 1100-1200 rpm] on a mechanical autometer gauge with a -4 feed using all 20/50 brad penn oil

You gauge reading would worry me still

cheers Richie

Did you check both plungers?

Just the rear as surely my cooler one wouldn't make any difference as it just goes to a bypass? i can check that one tomorrow and replace with a polished one (got a grooved one i can put in)

That is higher then mine..... i had higher cold pressures on my 1200 using 20-50 halfords on the same gauge although i do doubt the gauge as the sender rattles when i shake it now which doesn't fill me with hope for its readings but i do have that test gauge coming soon hopefully, and this is is visibly thinner.... i could try they're 20-50 next time maybe then...

Thanks for the input Richie 8)

I did have a problem with a oil filter(full flow) i change the the filter to a type from a peugeot car and it boosted my oil pressure by0,5bar
Hope you find your problem fast!

cheers buddy, currently using a VW filter, the golf style ones, the one i used was a pattern part and the oil was poured in a lot easier, this VW one i could only pour is in via the little holes around the outside and it was slow to fill.

Got a pressure test gauge coming on monday hopefully! if not today so can see. my pressure levels out about 3.5/4bar which is what... 55/60 psi? but after a run home from work today at idle of 900 rpm the gauge does flicker on zero raising to half/1 bar at about 200 rpm more.

Would a 30mm pump solve my issues you think or is that just a band aid? just the extra flow i've made has me thinking....

Thanks for all the help everyone has giving me, its been so helpful! i'm very greatful

Andy, I've had problems with pattern filters on watercooled VWs in the past. My old B3 Passat and a couple of mk2 Golf GTi's have all flickered the warning lights or sounded buzzers but sorted as soon as the filter was changed for a genuine one.

Current one is a branded VW unit though.... but i know what you mean, i only buy my filters from the dealer now for the water-cooled cars due to dodgy fit of pattern ones i was finding!

tempted to just try and loop the oil pipe to block that off for testing after  get my pressure gauge :)

I get 8psi at a hot idle where its uncomfortable to hold the dipstick ring for more then a few seconds but do able.... If that makes sense?

I'm tempted to try a thicker oil and or 30mm pump tbh...?

That sounds way to hot, don't try to band aid it, all my N/A stuff has 26mm pumps on them and plenty of pressure

cheers Richie

i still don't have a fan or scoop on the cooler, i really need a temp gauge on it too to see whats happening with that.

Just trying to see where i'm going wrong, i'm thinking if i loop the oil pipe to test at hot idle and bypass the filter and cooler i can see if thats restricting me, maybe a the sandwich plate.
or try 20-50 like you use and see how i get on compared to your results, i expected a little less due to the hoover mods and drillings ect.
can the rear plunger effect oil pressure do you think? as surely if its stuck down its going to the mains, and if its up its just going via my bypass plate to the mains....
so many options and causes i guess!

Thanks again Richie, very greatful!

I am not sure what you mean, the oil bleed hole goes straight into a cavity by the cam gear, you can see it hear where I plugged it

What brand oil cooler is it, I have seen the mesa coolers loose a bunch of pressure

isn't that bit to allow an fluid below the piston to escape? i might order up some millers classic 20w50 as it has good levels of zinc (i forget the full name) in it and double check the plungers when i change the oil.
can just try and rule out each option one by one i guess!

i didn't block mine as i just left my plunger in the cooler relief bit as it didn't really seem to matter which way it went due to no cooler... if thats makes sense :)

its SETRAB one and i hear good things about them?, using JIC-10 lines off a thermostat sandwich plate. my oil lines are half inch dia

cold oil pressure is fine, just after a blast at idle it starts to drop

If the plunger is seated ok then yes it doesn't matter but without checking you don't know if it, setrab are good so no problem there

OK i'll double check that, and see if that make s difference, then try the oil, then try looping the oil line to cut out the plate and filter head and filter see if thats it.... then i'll start running out of ideas  ;D

not too far off 1000 miles on it now. running really well, no nasty surprises, changed to a 10-60W to be on the safe side even though i wasn't seeing the oil light with the 10-50.
switched to the pugeot filter that was suggested also (not that easy to find in the uk)

got a mag oil plug and when i changed to the oil i had a thin layer of magnetic metal paste(very fine stuff) on it guessing from the break in process but i'm no worried. the oil breather pipe is pretty much dry.

preparing to change it to fuel injection which is the next challenge. got my gsxr ITB's mounted to manifolds via GSXR intake rubbers, and brought some 8mm Kunifer line (25ft roll) and a 12mm pre filter to got onto my bosch pump, then a 8mm inline (huge) filter used on Jags, which will go to the stock GSXR fuel rails i need to cut and braze to length.... from there to a 3BAR FPR and back to the tank. i'm using the CB T piece to handle the 12mm out and 8mm in for the tank.

i'll see if it fits with the stock shroud or i may have to fit my 911 kit sooner then i was planning (1 thing at a time!) or if it fits in the car without the lump hammer coming out  ::)

Cheers :)

Even with the single stock carb.... its still many times faster then the old 1200  ;D

So did the filter his job?if youre over the pond,buy then here if you need them...if they work

need to get the mech gauge on it again to double check, i'm in the UK found one on amazon, but like you say, if its good, its good  ;D
i changed the oil at the same time though to a slightly thicker oil but will see what the gauge says

14/15psi at hot idle it idles at 1000rpm :) and at 2000rpm its at 35psi

been trying my hand at brazing!

making fuel rails, out of the stock fuel rails on the GSXR for my ITB's.

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/E60C3708-012C-4B31-AD42-6A8F31C2F6D0.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/E60C3708-012C-4B31-AD42-6A8F31C2F6D0.jpg.html)

going to cut off all the excess metal on the throttle bodies eat, but getting there!

So guess an update is needed!!

Got about 2000 miles on the engine sadly STILL on the stock carb :( getting 28mpg on a longer run and 17-19 on shorter runs to work ect.

Got the efi pump installed and pre filter and feed line, just the pressure filter to install and return line then I can look at location of the FPR and fit the 911 cooling and ITBs, I did have a nice big filter to fit but I don't have the space I don't think, so I'm going to find a smaller option, current is 75mm dial I think... And looking at options in the 50mm range or a sytec that's nice and slim.

Had a minor hiccup with the rocker trying to eat it's self but that should be sorted soon enough :)

Need to pull my finger out and get that return line sorted!!

Also ghetto checked the end play, admitantly it has grown 0.03 MM. from 0.16 to 0.19 but I'm guessing she that's just bedding in and will keep an eye on it over the miles

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/4ED98166-21B2-43E6-9A53-C4C4B3502E76.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/4ED98166-21B2-43E6-9A53-C4C4B3502E76.jpg.html)

It gave the same reading 4 times in a row

added a AN 10 hose to my dizzy block off.... i'm now noticing my dipstick tube, which used to weep, is now dry.... which is a bonus. i'm going to add the same size hose to my fuel pump block off too as when i go 911 cooling, i'll loose the good stock breather :(

Spot the dogs dick  ::)

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/6F0B3A8C-3E59-4AB8-826E-7FBC9242C86A_1.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/6F0B3A8C-3E59-4AB8-826E-7FBC9242C86A_1.jpg.html)

So!

Got the week off and just getting the last few bits together to covert to throttle bodies and 911 cooling.
Bit nervous about the tuning but I'll learn it on the fly ;) ignition map is ok, just the fuel to do and I've got one to copy to get me going from a similar setup which is lucky, should get me rolling.

Tidied up the wiring for the ecu today, shortened up some earths ect to make it look nice, will get some nice cable sheath to finish it off.

Pics to follow this week hopefully!

Hard lines are all run, pump fitted, just needs plumbing and wiring up, test for leaks and go from there! Just hoping the throttle bodies fit in the car or I'll need to use one of 2 main tools 1) hammer 2) angle grinder.

Cheers

Andy

Really great thread and great build, keep up the good work  8)

Cheers buddy! Learnt a lot! Not started the EFI change over just yet but there's hope for the weekend!

Got a bit delayed!

But i have tomorrow off and the weekend to do this. the actual fitting won't be too bad, although i'll take my time, it'll be the tuning i think that will take the time. especially with shoptalk forum down  ::) (great for megasquirt stuff)

So, got home from work today and started the strip down to get a head start, Now i'd been told you COULD NOT remove the fan shroud with the deckled on....

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/EBDCCEAA-9769-4731-A211-403F458A9475.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/EBDCCEAA-9769-4731-A211-403F458A9475.jpg.html)

i had to remove the ALT stand too but it was pretty easy to do..... just for peoples reference

still plagued by this oil leak which i'm pretty sure is the oil cooler block off.... Think when i have some cash i'll speak to Richie about a nice block off!

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/C9CC8380-5CF6-4627-B4A0-71046B78C568.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/C9CC8380-5CF6-4627-B4A0-71046B78C568.jpg.html)

So this is how i left it for the evening as light was fading!

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/853439CE-2ED1-4AB5-B7E3-90118AF73688.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/853439CE-2ED1-4AB5-B7E3-90118AF73688.jpg.html)

I also tried to drain the tank but after a mouth of petrol i still have about a quarter  ::) should have just hot-wired the fuel pump.

tempted to give the engine bay a quick coat of black spray paint just to tidy it up for the nice porsche fan and body coloured shroud.

In other news i pulled out another toy to picture for a possible sale..... i can't say i use it anymore so seems silly to sell it, but its just such a good bike.... but 190 MPH is a tad fast  ::)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/D4205DAD-5D17-4D23-B56D-458A879A3051.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/D4205DAD-5D17-4D23-B56D-458A879A3051.jpg.html)


Been double checking all the ECU settings, easy to miss something! Also sorting out a TPS switch, i don't have the plug for the stock GSXR one for my throttle bodies, so soldered wires to the 3 terminals. then back filled with 2 part epoxy... just need to measure the resistance of the wires while i move it to work out which is +,- and signal wire and i'm set on that!


Good times!

i also noticed there was soot from the exhaust in the inlet, guessing thats normal from cam overlap right?

looking more at the oil leak i'm wondering how i have so much over the right hand side.... could well be case parting line maybe.... hmmmm

Bit more done today, bit of fiddling and shroud clearance work done so I can get it around the crank sensor at the flywheel side and a few adjustments to get the plug wires in ect

The left hand ITB fitted fine...... The right hand one, the fuel rail contacted the engine bay wall, so a few well placed blows with a hammer and I have a good 15mm clearance.

Bit fiddly to get them in and doing up the nuts on the manifold is going to be a nightmare so might borrow some slim nuts from the exhaust.

I also brought some gasket material, cut out some intake gaskets so hopefully they'll seal nice.

So having never seen this fitted like I have before and making the manifolds and rails I was pretty relieved to see that it's going to work out which is a bit relief!
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/47A37EE3-B74B-4717-B111-DE0BBA6E2525.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/47A37EE3-B74B-4717-B111-DE0BBA6E2525.jpg.html)

That's how I left it, will fit the fan and wire in the alternator and new reg rec and see if that works lol

Plumb in the fuel system and wire up the injectors and work out how the TPS is wired.... Make the cable linkage and see if I have any leaks then start it hopefully! Then tune it to drive to work on Monday  ;D

Hi Andy ,turns out I had an account... How did today go?!

Cool :)

I wanted to have it started today but I didn't get that far.

I fitted the fan and wired in the alternator, adjusted the shroud and drilled a hole for a grommet for the wires and bolted that all down, brought a shorter belt to, 825mm with all six shims in between the pulley and fan, IE as loose as the top pulley will allow and its a good fit.

Bolted for the manifolds and torqued to 14ft/lbs as per manual.

Took quite a while to get to that level, most of it was cutting and adjusting the shroud,

Then positioned the fuel filter and fitted that, started plumbing in the fuel line and the fuel pressure reg, got that all sorted and tightened up.

Fitted the CB T piece to the tank only to find the threaded portion is too long and it bottoms out on the tank it's self instead of the o ring in the T. Filed this down to make it screw down further and compress the sealing O ring, applied blue hylomar and hand tightened it down, then fitted the 8mm return barb and the 13mm outlet barb.

Wired up the pump and fitted the pressure side to the hard line.

Thought about how to do the 13mm feed and came up with an idea around the pipe routing I'll picture tomorrow.


So what's left to do?

Fit the 8mm return line from the hard line to the tank
Fit the 13mm feed line to the pre filter
Fit tank gasket,
Add fuel and check for leaks
Turn ignition key and check the whole system for leaks (fingers crossed)
If that's all good, wire in the injectors and make up a little loom for that
Wire in the TPS, check the ECU likes what it sees there
Make up a cable linkage and test that.
Wire in the new voltage regulator under the seat and do the conversion wiring from gen to alt.

Turn the key and see what happens.


That's a lot for tomorrow so we will see!!

Oh, and do a charity run and drive 3 hrs to pick up the lad from D of E on Bodmin  ;D

And hook up vacuum lines......
Kinda doubting it'll be done tomorrow

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/F0373F6E-3F5D-46D6-8505-D7E740F0A290.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/F0373F6E-3F5D-46D6-8505-D7E740F0A290.jpg.html)

Totally worth it for that look though! It's my dream setup cooling wise and now I have it! Well pleased! Will need a lot of tweeking and sealing of gaps but it's on it's way!

Well it runs! it doesn't stop, but it runs  ;D think i need to add a diode in there somewhere apparently? i'll work it out.

Long day, heres what i did:

Connected up the fuel lines, and wired the pump up.
Primed pump a few times and checked for leaks
NO LEAKS! result
Won a 3 miles charity run, was mostly oldies so sounds better then it actually was  ;D
made up a throttle linkage, using bike brake cable and sheath and clamp on nipples (naughty)
worried up the injectors and made the loom look nice with sheath
hooked up the plug wires
hooked up the vac line
tried to start it, got a couple starts then died after a second or two.
charged battery, had dinner, googled it
google said check required fuel, sure enough the ECU thought it was a 5litre V8 lol
adjusted settings and it fired up fine but idled high!
adjusted linkage, lowered idle
was in the 10's AFR so started lowering that which upped the idle again
lowered that and got me thinking i need a thinner cable between the TBI's, i think its causing it to hang up, or its too tight, which i can adjust. i'll look into that.
i have added an extra return spring but its not returning fully on the RHS TBI... this could just be the linkage needs adjusting tensions ect, but it was getting dark and i didn't want to piss off the neighbours too much.
went to turn it off and it stayed on! the alt light lit up as i turned the key off but it kept going ECU still getting power.... turned key back on and ALT light went out, turned key and it still stayed running..... ECU fuse out and it killed it!

from what i'm reading i need to add a diode in somewhere....


Anyway! pooped now! was great fun adjusting the fuel map off the AFR readings and getting a direct change, that was really cool! throttle response was fast too! well on the lower sections i leaned out, would puff a black cloud in the upper rpm as its very rich! but the tun got it started so happy with that!

not got it ready for work though so going to run to work tonight and stay there, cycle back tomorrow and get on it!!

LONG day!! but i'm very happy its started and runs!

How about today?

That shorud really does look good, cost a pretty penny though eh?!

Good work on getting as far as you did, fuel system sounds good and does away with a swirl pot so it'll be cool if that works out... Picked up some GSXR ITBs after what you said the other day off eBay from an early 2000s bike so should split for my IDA manifolds, just bought another few bits off Richie too so I'll get a build log up soon...

Is that a Sync Link you're using or a ghetto fabbed one? looks smart, loads of room around the ITBs now with that shroud! are the fuel rails inboard?

Look forward to updates dude :D

Edit... Ah ha an update... good work, bet you're chuffed with that! Can't wait to here how much better it drives now...

1st well done, thats quite a days work  8)

Diode goes between alt light and wire,stops it backfeeding, only works one way round so test if before making permanent  ;)

cheers Richie

Now that's commitment right there  :)

Good progress, glad it's going better after your earlier problems. Porsche fan looks great !!

You don't need a diode, it's your engine telling you it wants to keep playing  ;D

Thanks
Darren

Hi!
I did the 911 thing on the cheap, £120 for fan and ring and alt, shroud wasn't much more if memory serves me or less..., and mount was £30, strap I made from £3 of stainless and some bolts ;) it's 75 or more amps the alternator I forget, so not bad!

Looks lush and highlights my crappy engine bay lol

Score on the ITBs I wish I had those kind, a lot easier to work with!

It's ghetto, made the second pulley out of a spare set of throttle bodies I had :)

I've got the rails outboard, needed a little hammering on the right hand side for clearance ;)

Cool I'll splice that inline somewhere then :) yh the ring on it goes on the side towards the reg apparently.... But a lot easier to test like you say before soldering it lol
Can't wait to feel it's new found power too!
The engine sounds a lot smoother and happier even with balancing the throttle bodies by eye and hand! Once I got it running with the the linkage correctly I'll sync them with my quad vac gauges.

Also what was nice was that my ECU was seeing idle at about 40-50 kpa which nice and low! I had heard ITBs were bad for idle vacuum.
Also just running it on MAP at the min, will add the TPS later and can blend the two maps on mega squirt.

Still lots to do but getting there!

Cheers for all your help Richie!

Cheers  ;D
Yh coming up to about 3k miles or more now which is cool. Will prob strip it next year to check it over ect
I'm loving the fan!! I know there short falls but that look!

I thought that as I turned the key the first time lol what have I created!!

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/0C412E2A-008D-4B61-9107-9E1E9B9107A9.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/0C412E2A-008D-4B61-9107-9E1E9B9107A9.jpg.html)

That's how it looks today

Needs tidying and P clipping ect. Want to remove the VW dianostics socket too as it takes up space.

I looked at my linkage again today as I didn't feel the right bank was returning to its stop all that well, brought another throttle cable to try for that side.

It's tempting to go to a splitter type linkage like motorbikes do, main cable, into a splitter, then one cable to each TB. We will see.

So on a plus, the engine stops when I want now! Soldered in that diode and she works well  ;D

Took it for a drive and adjusted down the 3000rpm idle I had at one point....

I tried to balance the two banks with my vacuum gauges but got close and gave up, I need a few meters of vacuum hose to do it right so will order that up, then disconnect the cable linkage and sync them right.

Took it for a drive and started on the tuning. I really need to buy the full version of tuner studio as it does this for you but that'll wait till pay day.

I also had issues with it flooding on restart, removing the fuel pump fuse would let me start it (hence I knew it was flooding) I noticed it had a setting that was pulsing a bank of injectors while cranking, turning this off solved it so it seems.

So many settlings to setup and work out, then came the actual tuning, which with a wide band is do-able and fun!
It was very rich to start with 10afr ect so worked on that. Slowly working WOT from 10 up a bit at a time, will aim for about 12 to be safe at first, think I'm at 11.3 now?...

The bit I find hard to get my head around, and again probably a setting for it under accell enrichment, but if you gently cruise through a cell, it's okay being that value, but if you move through that cell under load (on the ve table) it's too lean.... If that makes sense

Lots to learn but at least I know I have it on a safer side of things being on the richer side.

The 911 fan makes an interesting noise at high rpm, say above 4K, like a super charger whine almost, or whistle... I love it!

The engine deffinatly has an induction roar now too! But I still need filters too, thinking filter socks, as its seemly impossible to find dual filters that exact spacing, some K&Ns come close and may work I've seen....


Hey ho! Lots on at work at the mo which is keeping me busy, decommissioning of my squadron, 771 search and rescue.

Cheers

Couple work pics ;) tarted up for a parade and #27 is being a "display model"

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/B92FB028-B628-44F2-BBFC-E02F0BAE4F34.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/B92FB028-B628-44F2-BBFC-E02F0BAE4F34.jpg.html)

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/B96F68CD-DD36-48B5-A9FB-EE53354F6B7A.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/B96F68CD-DD36-48B5-A9FB-EE53354F6B7A.jpg.html)

What are your thoughts on the oil pressure at the minute? IIRC VW state 28 psi @2500rpm with 30wt oil... That's about the only solid spec I know of on these... Obviously your're running the HVX mods so it's not unreasonable to see lower than this but as someone pointed out it's the flow that's equally important... You notched the rods didn't you? That'll surely relieves the pressure there... Hmm I guess time will tell?

Giving me a good bit of motivation here, got my trigger wheel out at work today, was planning on making a boss to mount it on a stock pressed steel pulley, got it centred in the lathe then got called to a job! don't you hate it when that happens!!!
I do like your flywheel though...

Your MS... where have you taken the live from? I've added an aux fuse board behind the back seat supplied straight from the battery via a relay... Haven't decided what to energise 86 from yet though, probably just an ignition live. That way I am not using any of the OG wiring for the WBO2, fuel pump, ECU etc etc... I think supply voltage fluctuations killed my Innovate LC-1... Not sure, gone for an MTX-L this time though, supposed to be a much better system and uses the Bosch LSU4.9 sensor too... I also intend to run all of the earths back to a common post somewhere on/near the aux fuse board...

Throttle linkage, I have a colleague big into motorbikes... I mentioned cable splitters to him and he said that was the best solution... I think yours is better in terms of syncing the two banks together but a cable splitter has fewer moving parts... That appeals to me :D


Decommissioning? Making way for new ones or downsizing the fleet/cost cutting?! In my industry it's increasingly more of the latter :/

My thoughts are that its working ;) i haven't really thought about it too much tbh, i did notch the rods but i think more oil pressure is lost via the oil gallery mods to the heads then the notch in the side of the rods, that just gives it a direction i feel? would depend on rod side play maybe? food for thought though! haven't checked the pressure in a while either tbh, could be a job to do :)

i was going to go for stock pulley till i was set on the 911 fan as a power pulley is recommend for them, something always gets i the way though!

i have two relays, the main one is fed from the battery and activated via an ignition live that is also live during cranking  (important to check) and the other is the fuel pump relay which is piggy backed off the main relay but triggered by the ECU. that one just feeds my fuel pump. PLX sm-6 i think my WB02, works nice, touch screen gauge but you always have it on the same screen anyways  :D

the linkage seems to be ok now but i've ordered some other cable to try thats more flexi and better (i hope) so will try that! also ordered a load of silicone vacuum hose to hook up my syncing gauges better and get that sorted as its still not right i don't think.

the Navy lost SAR to a civi company, due to them putting in a cheaper bid, wether it lasts or not i don't know, bit bitter about it tbh  ::) hey ho!!


today i had a mare of a time starting it from cold (warm day) yesterday it started a lot easier, but was a lot richer then too, I've since leaned the map a lot to help with driving but for cold start it has hindered it, and i don't have a temp sensor yet so i'm kinda at a loss although i think i can make it richer by timings after start up on the eco too, but sorting a temp sensor is the main fix i will be doing. :)

they did the same thing to me while in the Service many years ago with maintenance contracts and equipment upgrades, it ended up in a full inquiry due to serious damage to ships (and men......) and also major degradation of systems operation. After the usual few years of finger-pointing and politicking it reverted back again.

YOU know you've done the job well, that's what matters.

Oh, nice engine write up, thanks man.  :)

Yeah text book sadly! always the same.... anyway i'll not whinge too much here  ;D

So! the mapping continues! i really enjoy this sort of thing.

after leaning up the map it in the lower rev ranges. it ran nice so i thought, BUT starting from cold took a good 20 attempts! it would fire fine for a second or two, then die out.
this needed more fuel and i tried it via the warm up settings but due to not having a temp sensor for that yet i was a bit stuck, so i adjusted a couple settings to give it a tad more fuel for the first 45 seconds and that got me half way there, then richened the map in idle and that made it idle nice from cold no worries! now idles about 13:1 ish if i real right. and i smoothed out the map, but it helped a lot and pulls great now from down low, right off idle (at partial throttle )which the carb wouldn't be happy under 2k rpm! really enjoyable! still got issues and bugs to work out, but its getting there.

Vac line arrived, and new light cable too for the linkage, its 7 strands but strand is made of 19 thinner ones so very flexi!

should let me balance the TBIs nicely now :)

also need to sort out a TPS, i have one but no plug and its tight in the plug so hard to solder and epoxy wires too. i'll sort something, that will help with acceleration enrichment.

i'm slowly adjusting the map and you can feel the engine pulling harder and harder as i tune it, and i'm still one a very mild ignition map, 25 degrees MAX!

thats where i am now!

Well, this morning at near 0 temps, it started second turn of the key and a little rev, then no throttle needed, so i'm getting there! already its way better then the carb before! which to be fair was not in anyway suited to this role!

hopefully fit my TPS today, just working out the wiring with that. 3 wires, checking the resistance change as i open the throttle to decide which is +,- and signal wire. that will let me do acceleration enrichment.
also emailing Mario @ TheDubShop in the states who makes a temp sensor which bolts onto a tinware screw and does a great job, and also the ecu is already calibrated for this sensors range. he takes apart a GM sensor and mods and extends it. i was thinking of doing this my self, but his looks nice and comes with the bare plug to wire into my loom to make for a neat install....

that'll give me the warm up enrichment so i can lean out my VE map nicely where needed :)

its coming together! also very fun!

i'm still very rich in areas, like 10.0 on my gauge, and it only goes down to 10! so will address those ASAP!

Oh and i need to sort out some filters, try the new throttle cable wire, and sync the TBIs, maybe look at making some sort of vacuum plenum to smooth out the MAP signal, mines pretty jumpy i noticed! i can do it with a plenum or a needle valve... will give something a go!

AND tidy up the engine bay and get things covered and P clipped.

the speedo swings to 70mph pretty quickly now! time to look at front disks  :o

School boy error time again.

Well, lets just call it BETA stage testing adjustment or something...

i redid my linking cable today between my TBIs with a a new super flexi cable which has mad it a lot better IMO although not driven it yet. its called 7x19, so normally you get about 7 strands of metal in he cable, this is like that but each of the 7 strands is made up for 19 very fine ones, so allows it to be very strong and super flexi.... its stainless steel, but my normal solder did ok....
boring lesson over... i now don't need a huge return spring which is cool!

so did that, ran some wires for my TPS sensor for the ECU, fitted that, then switched on the laptop, foot off the pedal, calibrated for throttle closed so 0%, foot to the floor calibrated for 100%

then i thought.... i'll just jam the pedal down and see if i'm getting WOT at the TBIs..... phfffff hardly! shortened my main cable from the pedal to give me proper WOT, turned on the laptop again, foot to the floor gave 140%! so i was only getting 71% throttle before.... not driven it yet so will see what its like tomorrow! sadly its raining though but hey ho!

i now need to read up on acceleration enrichment settings!

cheers!

Andy

 :o :o :o it turns out 100% throttle is pretty quick, i brought the full version of Tunerstudio and it has an AUTO TUNE feature on it, where you input your target AFRs in a graph and it tunes it for you, pretty well i must say! its now running pretty smooth! well a 100 times better then the carb, low end is so smooth now, starting is a turn the key, little throttle and it holds idle right away at 1k rpm.

3rd gear roll ons from 30mph to 70mph as smooth and surprisingly fast  :o

i also spent some time balancing the TBI's too, there not perfect but pretty close and my gauges are pretty sensitive. runs well, revs up great right from idle!

i took my mum out at her request, explained the TS software first and sat the laptop on her lap, she loved it! well i think she did, she said "that was a one time experience" which i think is good  ;D

tidied up my wiring and vac lines ect too, think i'll sort something to smooth the vac signal

Hi Andy - great progress your making.

My last engine had a quite an uneven map sensor signal from one plenum on the throttle body. Instead of having 4 vacuum/pressure pipes into a single collector, we simply fitted a reducer/restrictor  (inch or so length of metal rod with a small bore) to the pipe and it smoothed the signal right out.

I can't remember the exact bore of the hole but it was surprisingly small - possibly 1mm or so.

Might be worth a try
Darren

cheers bud!

i'm planning a needle valve.

my vac gauges use it, basically when open the needle jumps wildly, so you wind it in, reducing the ID till the needle is steady but still reacts, like your idea just different way about it.

pretty sure you can get them in pet shops for fish tank air stones ect.... i may even have one kicking about to try...

aaaahh. Lightweight race version of vice grips then.......
 ;D

yh modern aircraft grade plastic. ;D

did the trick though!
that and teeing all the 4 vac ports together then in. i still get very low vac at cruise but thats an ITB thing it seems.  i'll need to do some serious thinking to get around that one! i did read about adding one way valves on 3 of the 4 vac lines, so it can draw vac off 3 but only leak back off one.... he said it worked great but i haven't quite got my head around that yet!

till i get a coolant sensor sorted there isn't a lot i can do much more i don't think, other then play with settings and let it auto tune some more :)

the car pulls really hard in the low to mids as you roll on, lots of get up and go! love it!

and the induction sound from the ITB's is crazy!

BUT i must get some filters sorted out! i'm away with work from tuesday for just under two weeks and i'll buy some filter socks while i'm away :)

Great progress, maybe you'd be better off reverting to only part throttle to save that gearbox a little :D
Sounds like the full version of TS was well worth it, I'm looking forward to getting stuck in again... Strange idea on the one way valves... Makes sense though I guess... I'm using this thread as the R&D phase of my build so keep the updates coming :)

Here's some R and D, don't use metal epoxy to make your manifold, just broke mine... Think something hit the body as I changed hard first to second....
Went lean and I pulled over, throttle bodies resting on the manifolds....
Just used some ally braze weld stuff, the low temp alumweld stuff so will get it back together tomorrow.

Will make mk2 manifolds come pay day!

Bummed :( oh well! My fault

Fixed them with some of that aluminium braze rods, feels solid and will hold till the mk2!

Thinking hillbourne style cut down as they'll be more in board..

waiting on the hill borne manifolds to arrive from the states....


brought some air filters too, pic to follow.

been playing with the eco a lot, tuning the VE table, get it starting nicely. also waiting on a CLT sensor from the states too which will use head temp instead of coolant, this will allow me to tune it for warm up enrichment.

currently set my limiter down to 5500 soft and 6000 rpm hard, its such an easy engine to rev i feel this would help me make it last  ;D

i'm at 28 degrees WOT advance, and 12.5 AFR WOT -/+ 0.15 AFR  which isn't bad. will have to find a local dyne and do a power run. also need to fit a better oil cooler block off as mine leaks a tad. also got a small leak from my full flow fitting where the barb screws into the elbow so will redo that.
just little niggles that i can iron out. oil and filter change done the other day, 3k miles on the engine now and tuning better then ever now i have EFI! pulls really nicely and well mannered! just a bit of a beast if you want it to be (and i normally do)

20mpg...
Tbh I was getting 17 with the carb doing the same around town driving but I'm making a lot more power and using it! All the time ;)
 But I'm still tuning and pretty rich in places, not turned on fuel cut yet ect.... I'm aiming for 25 around town really.... And more on a run, mid 30's
But I need to give my ecu more information first and tune it a little better, maybe try "ITB MODE" in megasquirt that blends a TPS ve map with a MAP map.
At the moment I just use map which ITBs aren't known well for! And TPS for acceleration enrichment. I also have not tried the fuel cut feature yet on over run, and idle rich due to no temp sensor yet.
So should be able to pick up that 5mpg.


Engine was sounding a bit odd last night then I noticed the quiet packs muffler tip had half snapped off and was flapping.... It's about 3000mile old...
So I have a 1 5/8 side winder header in the loft but no silencer.... So I've brought a 180 2in bend, another o2 bung and a GSXR silencer...
I'm hoping it'll tuck under the valance but if not I'll run it along the right hand side of the engine and maybe duct it out infront of the rear wheel...
I'll work something out!

So,

been making up a flange from some steel plate i have, its 5-6mm so should dos the job, that coupled to the 50mm (2in) 180 degree bend i have thats 1.5mm thick should be able to make something up, and not being silly thin should weld ok, and last okay too! if it works well i'd probably make one out of stainless in the future.

Also on the manifold front, i'm looking at making some new ones, i was planning on using some Hillborn manifolds as there more upright, giving more space for the TBI's again the side of the car.... but FEDEX seem to have lost those  ::)

so just ordered up some steel tube and i'll shape the ends to match my oval port which will hopefully end up OK but we'll see! again, 6mm plate bases and tops, and steel tubing.

i just brought my first MIG welder too which will help no end!

i'm pondering over how tall to make the manifolds also... need to do a little math there i think!

So..... Given FEDEX are still messing me around and just ignoring me pretty much it seems...

i brought some steel tube and some 5mm plate i had, started cutting out the oval ports on the plate and shaping the pipe to fit, just takes ages cutting out an oval shape in thick plate! without a CNC or plasma cutter! then i'll weld those up and have them sitting more inboard then the current manifolds i have... and tweet them if needed, cheap little project though, only £7 so far! not including the welder or the 3 drill bits i've wrecked so far  ;D

the exhaust works well though, its louder then i though to be honest, and keep an eye out for a slightly freer flowing one but i do like it.

heres the RH side done

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/AFE66BC3-C2A6-46DD-9BB9-A62E47E0A3A2.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/AFE66BC3-C2A6-46DD-9BB9-A62E47E0A3A2.jpg.html)

and quick coat of high temp black

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/42A86187-F95B-4463-9472-2CF0BC6BB209.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/andy198712/media/42A86187-F95B-4463-9472-2CF0BC6BB209.jpg.html)

tempted to shape them a little more in the top to look nicer, but need the car back on the road at the min so that can wait, hoping the bolts fit.... gonna be tight and will be using those 11mm brass ones i think!

Well, there on, not a lot of room for nuts so the other manifold will be made with this in mind! also they lay out further then i thought so again this will be addressed at a later date, they fit fine ect, but just not how i want them to  ;D

also got a nasty rich spot at 30mph in 3rd up hills at light throttle, as i was auto tuning with a vac leak i didn't know about.... more tuning needed i feel! runs well and its good having the fuel cut enabled, it cuts the fuel on over run so i save fuel, run cooler and better engine braking. will see what MPG it nets me, i was on 23MPG if i recall... which was 20MPG at first then i leaned up the light throttle and cruise and got 23... so hopefully see an improvement now!

Some interesting words from Dave Walker in Practical performance car on why bike throttle bodies aren't a good idea in cars, all to do with low speed throttle openings/ratios and they are to quick opening so difficult to set up at low speeds, worth a read if you got a few minutes in Tesco or Smiths ;)

Very interesting, makes sense also, as the bikes actually have dual throttle plates probably to counter this reason... i have these removed as controlling them would have be .... well.
back on MAP tune but god knows why, TPS worked better in a shorter time, MAP will get there but i feel its more a single throttle thing (map)


i'm playing with going single TB tbh
Pro's : no sync, easier to tune, one cable, less to go wrong, easier to turbo
Con's: getting something to fit my 911 shroud, which holds the injectors too... would maybe be making something or a spacer block and then CB end castings ect... nothing i couldn't work around

had a quick read of it, i know what he's saying, they do make for a very responsive bottom end, IE a little throttle does a lot!

i'm thinking i'll switch back to aTPS tune, MAP just isn't ideal for ITBs i don't think. although a lot would argue a MAP tune is better as it reads load ect. but when i had TPS it was better i felt, with a engine like mine being powerful in a light car... it never really under a lot of load if that makes sense, in that 30%throttle on a flat won't be that much diff to 30% on a slope (i'm talking ish here) and i found i was able to tune it well like that....

just need the time to play with it! loads of jobs taking up my spare time at the minute!

I use TPS for fuel and MAP for ignition (Load) , works great. Can you do that with MS ?

my MS is about 20 odd years old, its the basic MS1 2.2, i need to upgrade to the MS2 V3 or above and then they have ITB mode, which blends MAP and TPS on both tables to get the best of both worlds....

But.... thats in the future lol if i haven't going single TB and turbo by then  ;D

Photobucket..... the joys!

the car has been garaged for a while, but i'll get back into it soon, got a new sump to go on the car as mine leaks from a pinhole. and got a new nice billet oil cooler block off to go on.... and looking at single TBing it this year maybe? it'll be easier if i turbo it and give better MAP signal to get a nice smooth street tune i feel.

Well this week I hatched a plan....

I ordered some mild steel yesterday to make another set of manifolds......

38mm tube for the runners
20mm round bar to make indie for bungs
20mm square bar to make fuel rails.

So each port will have its own runner and injector mounted at the best angle I can get, will decide once mocked up.

These will run into a central plenum and single throttle body which I think will be about 48mm

This should give me good map signal so I can play around tuning easier and more accurately then the ITBs and better mpg, not that I really care as it’s a toy, it’s just a fun goal.

And we all know why single throttle body is easier then 4...... lay the foundations for a turbo ;)

I’ll post pics as I go with the manifolds, need to buy some more 6mm plate tomorrow.

Could see two pictures, and only one from you :( would love to see pics:)

One roughed out and drilled, need to use my pillar drill and core bits for the big holes.... 6mm plate takes some getting through!

(https://i.imgur.com/7F2XVxYl.jpg)

Did a few little jobs today on the beetle, first time ive worked on it in a while!

Removed the old sump as it had a pin hole in it, and got a smaller one to go one, but as i removed it i noticed the oil pickup extension rolling around in there..... i'd metal epoxied that on.... live and learn, i'll use the juberlee clip this time! will fit that up tomorrow i think.

i also removed the porsche fan to look at fitting a second oil breather, currently it has a AN10 from the dizzy hole but i'm going to add another from the fuel pump hole next to it.

Also noticed my oil lines leaking, the barb and clamp ones, either at the hose or the screw fitting.... but my SocketLess oil lines are bone dry..... it seems if you pay 4 times as much per fitting they don't leak  ;D so i'll replace the full low oil lines and fitting with SocketLess fittings and AN8 lines.


I also noticed an axel seal leaking too! the job list is expanding but i'll get there!


I eyeballed up some ideas for the intake system today too which should hopefully get more of a feel for tomorrow.

So here is 1.5inch pipe which when squashed to the oval shape will fit perfectly....

(https://i.imgur.com/iSXXcvBl.jpg)

i removed the TPS from the WBX throttle body which is just an on or off switch and noticed the end happens to be just like the throttle body i have already off an MG

(https://i.imgur.com/c8CEk4Il.jpg)

the splindle is a diff size but i can work around that, just need to make up an adapter for the mounting and i'm there

(https://i.imgur.com/B27SncOl.jpg)

Getting there !

Fitted my smaller sump and pickup tube today, used the red locate 518 sealant for the sump to engine and no gasket, and blue loctited the bolts, then 518 and a paper gasket for the sump plate and new copper washers.

Then removed the throttle bodies.... end of an era there!  :'(

this let me remove the fan shroud so i can replace the oil cooler block off i'm convinced is leaking... replaced that with a nice billet item that uses OEM seals, so 518 sealed them too but need to drill out the holes to take an M8 bolt.

cleaned up the case a bit as its an oily mess! before removing the shroud i offered up the plenum, i'm sure i can make it work and pump some boost in this engine  ;D

got home and made up a second oil breather out of a fuel pump block off and a AN10 pocketless fitting.

Tomorrow i'll have another go at that oil cooler block off and start tidying things up, maybe look at the new intake i want to make.

i also have a complete wiring loom to go in the car which will be nice to not constantly have little wiring snags and rats nest wiring!

(https://i.imgur.com/zT4jCKJl.jpg)

Hopefuly make use of that boss on the side one day  ;)

I’ve been slow and on holiday and this week I’m away for work, but brought a fibreglass short beetle bonnet which are extremely hard to get in the uk!!

Need to in gear a bit more and get these manifolds made!

I did buy a megasquirt v3 board and will start to slowly build that up as and when’s though.

i had some of he parts laying around so just need to work out what i do and don't have then put an order in of parts, i seem to have the more expensive parts it seems so thats cool!

(https://i.imgur.com/aR0DJF9l.jpg)

and today i knocked up a little adapter to mount a TPS from a modern MG and i think BMW..? onto my VW T25 2.1 throttle body

(https://i.imgur.com/ShzLunjl.jpg)

slowly getting there!

H Andy,
Just found this thread.
Good work!!!

Can I ask if you ever made it to a dyno??

Cheers
Marc

Thanks :)

No which is pretty silly of me, i will once this intake is done though, found a place that remapped my BMW semi local which were happy to do it

Well, i guess i should update this!

so the non engine side of it goes like this...

my car club at work have project bays where you get a 3 month slot in a bay wide enough for two beetles, my pan gasket leaked. so i've split the body and done/doing the following:


New frame head (mine had a fist sized hole behind the lower beam tube!!)
New narrowed beam (ordered 4in but its more like 3in which i noticed after i cut a set of leaves, live and learn, trust no one)
New correct bolts to allow for caster shims
New caster shims
New Limebug dropped disc spindles
New Febi ball joints
New zimmerman discs (currently running drums)
New wheel bearings
New Polo rack and pinion bracket from Alex on here
Used polo rack and pinion and tie rods
New brake hard lines
IRS brackets welded in
IRS trailing arms which will get brakes renewed
IRS gearbox
New gearbox cradle and HD VW OEM mounts
New poly bushes for spring plates and IRS arms
New spring plate covers
New gene berg mid mount
New 5.5in steel wheels powder coated satin black
New full pan set of pan bolts and special washers
New chassis gasket
New complete custom wiring loom
New OEM fuse board
Fibreglass bonnet (searched for years to find a short bonnet in the uk!!)
New Hookys engine bay side panels (thick metal and well made!)


So the engine side of things...

Repaint of my 911 fan unit.
New MS2 or 3 v3 ECU (building slowly)
New 30mm oil pump
New AN10 lines through out and socketless fittings
New VWSPEEDSHOP SP1 manifolds (without throttles) and stainless AN fuel rails
New VWSPEEDSHOP 52mm billet throttle body (beautiful!)
New VWSPEEDSHOP intake pipe work


And after all that i need a new credit card if anyone has one going ?????  ;D

at least i know it will all be fresh and as good as it can be when it goes back on the road!! hopefully handle better too!

Big thank you to Richie for alot of helpful in put and parts and Paul at VWSPEEDSHOP who's intake system is very well made and looks amazing!

Its all taking alot longer then i thought as i didn't plan the frame head replacement but when i removed the beam and saw that huge hole.... this theme continued the more i stripped it down sadly! but at least its sorted now!! or at least it will be when i'm finished and most importantly it should be super reliable so i can get to some cool shows and even go abroad in it hopefully!
anddddd then turbo it too.... hence the change to single TB  ;D

I'll sort some pictures soon! only got 3 more weeks in the project bay and need to crack on and get it rolling again so i can vacate it before my slot is up.


Cheers

Andy

PS thats the first time i've made a list and its scary  :)

Finished up the beam today, i think its more like 3 inch narrowed instead of 4 inch but alls well that ends well!

actually felt like I'm getting somewhere today with the beam on, dropped spindles and discs with fresh bearings in.  recently its seemed like i'll never finish but today was a good day  ;D

once i settle on a ride height i can order up my ProTech Billet shocks  8)

its my goal to get to a drag/show once its finsihed, in Europe would be even cooler, we can all dream huh  ;D

(https://imgur.com/a/ZdGKkOG)

(https://i.imgur.com/lnLaotY.jpg)



the mayhem!

Cant wait to get these on the engine with the billet throttle body (not pictured)

(https://i.imgur.com/HzExx13.jpg)

just need match porting but loads of meat there!

(https://i.imgur.com/gdilvgy.jpg)


(https://i.imgur.com/glOyEGq.jpg)

Well its been a very long hard summer holiday but its back on the ground on all 4 wheels!

(https://i.imgur.com/mowWp89.jpg)

ignore the rear camber, its sat on the bump stops as i havnt finished the spring plates yet  ;D
still alot of work to do but the most of it has been done! after xmas hopefully it'll be finished..... he says  ::)

 8)

Progress has been pretty slow! currently working nights which is nice from a work point of view for me but bad from a sleep/car point of view! and buying a flat which has its own engine building room! (i think its called a living room??)  ;)

anyway, i'm re doing the oil system as i had marginal oil pressure, it was okay but on the lower end of the scale id say! and ended up using 10w60 oil.
i think part of that was due to the HVX mods creating more places for oil pressure to escape among other things. flow vs pressure i guess!

i removed the 26mm pump today which is a tight fit in the case so no issues there. it looks perfect so i'll use it for my original engine for this cars rebuild when i do that (stock 1200)

iron pump cover also looks good and is flat.

the one thing that played on my mind was that i didn't plug the case at the oil outlet, just the pump. so i'm fitting a freeze plug to that if the one i have choose fits correctly, this seems the best way to do with without splitting the case which i don't really want to do at the minute. its only got about 5 k miles on it or less?

i've sanded flay the new 30mm pump and i'm going to port the intake as i did the 26mm one, i'm also going to port the pump cover too, basically the outlet hole on the pump cover could do with a few touch ups to match the outlet area of the pump.

probably doesn't need it but can't harm.

once this is done i'll start converting all my oil lines to AN10 push fit hose. currently have barbs and clamps to the filter then AN10 from the thermostat plate to the cooler.
should cure the annoying little oil leaks.

i'm also adding the second slightly larger Setrab oil cooler in series with my other Setrab cooler too. the smaller one on it own (no stock oil cooler) did fine and didn't have a fan, but again, i plan to add a turbo in the near future and couple that with wanting to do some long trip. won't harm.

So that's the oil system sorted once thats complete.

one thing i noticed about my IRS conversion is the allen bolts i brought and washers, the washers seem to have too big ID. so will measure up the correct size i need and order some thick equivalent size washers. currently the washer will fit over the head of the bolt so really doesn't serve an purpose :(
 These where sold as IRS bolt and washers from one of the big uk sellers (forget which) at about ?25 per side..... i didnt just hash it together.

also cutting out the old rusted engine side trays and replacing with Hooky's panels which look amazing quality!

i also want to add in some tar board to the engine bay but haven't seen well reviewed set yet.... so i can hide extra wiring and keep it looking nice and clean in there with the 911 fan.

then i need to work out the Polo rack conversion i'm doing, speficially  the tie rod setup. current thought is mount it all up, see where my tie rods need to be and cut the Polo tie rod ends off and weld in the correct threaded ends for the tie rods as the Polo currently it M12 or 10 at a guess and i need M14 for late beetle spindles i have.
i did try the Polo track rods but the tapered part is too small sadly.

pushing a car around with the front wheels going in separate ways is like herding kittens!

the car is a long way off being ready but closer then it was when i started  ::) at least i have the winter to work on it, i don't want to use it on out salty roads again!

Cheers

Andy

Well i'm slowly plodding away, keep getting sent up to MOD BOSCOMBE for work which is really getting in the way!  ::)

the steering rack is loosely fitted, i'm just working out the double jointed linkage at the minute, need to do some cutting and welding on that.

the engine is back in, more a mental thing than anything. just helps the car look finished!

Also things are taking a bit of a turn....

Fitted my SP1 manifolds..... don't even attempt that without the super slim allen head nuts....  ::)
having to work out the intake piping a bit too due to the porsche fan.

Also have a Holset HX40 in the post on its way to me...............  ;D
can fit up my water/meth setup also and sort a charge cooler at some point....

its slowly getting there!  pics will follow this week when i get some time on it  8)

It’s quite a large turbo....[attachment=1]

Have it a quick coat of paint and also had a charge cooler arrive,
I was thinking of a tube style ones but figure if I just commit to a parcel shelf cooler I can have a bigger one, so ended up with this,

And fitted my 360cc injectors which should get me going!

Guess i'm due an update....

The car is coming along,

New wiring loom nearly ready for battery and testing

New ECU nearly complete, just need to finish the box for it

New ECU loom just needs wrapping and adding connectors

Turbo mounted and clears the rear valance and decklid closes  :o

Redesigned the fuel system using AN6 PTFE hose and AN6 fittings in the engine bay, re ran the hard lines front to back, nearly done.

New engine trays fitted from hookys and new tarboard fitted to hide wiring.

Charge cooler mounted in parcel area and intake piping very nearly finished.

Throttle body mounted up, just need the cable routing sorted.

Re designing the oil system using all push lock AN10 fittings, and had to move the oil cooler to the right hand side under the parcel area and filter is o the left under there (using a thermostat plate) ordered fire sleeve for the oil lines till it gets away from the exhaust.

Nearly done with the AN4 PTFE turbo feed line from the pressure switch.

Need to make my turbo drain (horrible angle sadly) most will be hard pipe then just a rubber coupler where it enters the deep sump.

Repainted the 911 fan.

ordered a methanol tank so will mount that when it arrives and the pump then decide on nozzles ect they will be just after the charge cooler and will have a nice long path to allow for most charge cooling.

and thats about all i can think of.... ive been putting in a lot of hours and alot of money to get this done but really been enjoying working on it.
although now i just want to start driving and tuning it!

oh and need to make a dump pipe..... i want it exiting out the stock locations if possible.

pics to follow

(https://i.imgur.com/rnEEmgAl.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/W9Z2ylgl.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/gCqt2Tzl.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/86FHexBl.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/dLjhYyVl.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/KW9RRsql.jpg)

Looking good Andy.
Cant wait to hear it and see if you can indeed get that big old snail spinning merrily!

Cheers

That is something I’m interested in too! On the plus side, smaller exhaust housings are available and aren’t too expensive.

Getting there!

Well an update.


the fuel system is all in, but the fuel tank leaked and the fuel pump had died....  ::)

there fuel tank leaked where i'd "clearanced" it with a lump hammer to clear the polo steering rack and made a crease. any better ideas on how to clearance it ? heat it first? (new tank)

and the fuel pump just didn't like being sat for so long, was a bosch pump. i freed it up with light oil and a hammer as i wanted to test the fuel system for leaks and i got it going, but i wouldn't trust it.

so the new fuel system works fine without leaks at pressure which i'm super happy about!!
just searching for a bosch 044 fuel pump at a god price  :-\  Opie oils is the cheapest at £130 and is 20 mins drive from me but i'm going to speak to them about discount.

and i'll sort a new fuel tank, i don't want to risk welding my old tank..... seems very dodgy....?


so the fuel system was okay.

then fitted the oil lines and cooler etc for the last time. that's finished.

i'm making my turbo drain this week and i need to change the flange on the CB header to fit the turbo smart wastegate, i really thought the wastewater would just bolt on?! the CB flange is too small though.

2 steps forward 3 steps back!!

getting there though :)

oh i picked up the stainless for my tail pipe/ dump pipe. 2.5inch 316 stainless i went with.

few wires to add in and make up, mount the ECU and run the loom and add plugs but its getting there.....

managed to get it to briefly fire up, was a great relief that everything worked!
need to tune it now, and sort out the right hand silicone elbow as its collapsing under vacuum....

i also need some longer overals.....

https://youtu.be/05QCSlxNFVE

Sounds nice!!
And you're right, wheres the flood??  ;)

 ;D
Thanks !

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jk3XrigWIMc

and first time moving under its power in a good year or two

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8JiXZWkNu-g

So with pretty much all the silicone bends collapsing under vacuum i decided to make as much of it out of metal as i could, leaving the minimum amount of joiners and silicone.

now i just have silicone at the throttle body, manifolds, charge cooler, and T piece, and these are all only short straight couplers.

i made these out of stainless (as i don't have the welder to weld ally)  i've done the internal pipes but not ground them flush yet so they don't look as nice  ;D

(https://i.imgur.com/sHA2aXN.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/FESw0N6.jpg)

Looks good!
If youre flattening (or blowing off) silicon had you considered V bands?
Looks like they are quite cheap now especially if you can weld the SS yourself!!

https://profusionexhausts.com/components/clamps/v-band/2-5-inch-63mm-profusion-304-stainless-steel-v-band-clamp-kit-vbq250.html

It was the bends I used it for and had issues with, 90’s and 180 degree bends.
But yeah I may end up added the odd v band to the exhaust :)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-QAVsS_q0EM

i probably should add shock absorbers  :o
but for a first run post rebuild at least it works! needs some work on the tune thats for sure!