FK-45 & 1914

[louisb]

the 43 would be my pick with the low rated 1.4s. UD  

I had not thought of that one.

FK-43   281º   250º   0.383"    9.83   108º   New cam

Looks like it would produce a lot of torque. Thanks for the input Jeff.

I was trying to find the material Mark wrote about his 1915 combo but it seems to have disappeared.

Here?  http://www.cal-look.com/tech_building_fast_reliable_engines1.shtml

One of my fav's.

I could have swore there was more to that article than what is posted there. I thought he had a couple of recipes for engines posted some where.

--louis

[lawrence]

I was trying to find the material Mark wrote about his 1915 combo but it seems to have disappeared.

Here?  http://www.cal-look.com/tech_building_fast_reliable_engines1.shtml

One of my fav's.

I have not read that in a while; good stuff. Louis there are a couple pages. Scroll to the bottom and it says "continue" on the right.

[louisb]

I was trying to find the material Mark wrote about his 1915 combo but it seems to have disappeared.

Here?  http://www.cal-look.com/tech_building_fast_reliable_engines1.shtml

One of my fav's.

I have not read that in a while; good stuff. Louis there are a couple pages. Scroll to the bottom and it says "continue" on the right.

--louis

[louisb]

Anyway, here is the section on Mark H's 1914 recipe:

Here are some of my own motor combinations that have worked well for me. All cams listed are Engle brand. 1914cc, 94x69

This motor can be built with smaller cylinders but the low RPM torque will suffer slightly. 94 Cima pistons, 69 counterweighted crank, stock weight flywheel, stock rods. All balanced. 110 cam (285dur x .430lift) You can use 1.25 rockers if you want or a VZ25 cam with stock rockers. Solid shaft kit for rockers, thin-wall chromoly pushrods. 040 stock VW heads fully ported with reshaped and hemicut chambers, a competition valve job with dual springs. Compression ratio for bus, 7 to1 for bug 7.5 to 1. 1 1/2 " header with 2" turbo muffler. Dual Kadrons or 42 Webers or 36/40 Dellortos. 40 Webers can work but they need bigger 32to34 mm venturies. Also a single 36 Dellorto or a 40 Weber can work with an isolated runner manifold but they get bad mileage and they make your motor slower. 009 distributor and Bosch blue coil. This motor can be used with heater boxes if it is used mostly for around town driving. If you drive at sustained freeway speeds the heads will be cracked in no time. I really think heater boxes should only be used on an almost stock motor. This motor will make any VW a really fun car to drive. You will go from having a stock anemic slug to a car that has effortless power. This motor can also be revved fairly high and will make power well into the RPM range.


Looks like a good motor for what I want to do, minus the semi-hemi.

--louis

[lawrence]

I did the exact same thing. Where are the other pages? Thought id help you out That 1914 sounds like a ton of fun.

[ugly duckling]

here is what mark ran on the black car when he was going round and round and round  .some guy i think his name is denham did them.  40x37.5. before the cnc  had landed .btw it was a partial hemi not fully blended to sealing serface. one of his neg deck engines.UD . 
 

[TexasTom]

Negative deck? ... interesting. Do the heads still have the step in the chambers, Jeff?
Love to hear/see more about this.

Thanks for sharing UD.

W120 is one of my all time favorite cams. love to use it in moderate street motors.

[ugly duckling]

yes tom the step is still there i bored it origanaly for 96 power sleevs on his 94s. i think it was at least .060 sticking out the top of the cly. sorry to hijack your thread louis ill be good now .  . ud .

[Jim Ratto]

there's why I tell guys to call Jeff and get heads from him!

 

[louisb]

yes tom the step is still there i bored it origanaly for 96 power sleevs on his 94s. i think it was at least .060 sticking out the top of the cly. sorry to hijack your thread louis ill be good now .  . ud .

Whats a good hi-jack among friends. That's actually pretty cool. And your input is always welcome.

--louis

[louisb]

there's why I tell guys to call Jeff and get heads from him!

 

Yep, your the one that told me to call Jeff about doing my other heads and as soon as I get the money together I will be in touch about doing this set. I just bought a rebuilt tranny for the Manx so it will probably be next month.

Thanks,

--louis

[louisb]

This is the cam I decided to go with. Just ordered it a little while ago. Its a web cam grind that falls in between the 110  & 120 and is close to the VZ-25 grind.

163   284º   249º   0.422"   10.72   108º   Hot street; wide power band

Going to run 1.1 rockers. Now I need to decide on carbs. Kads, 36 Dells or 40 IDFs. I kind of want to do the Dells just to be a bit different but the kads are cheaper.

--louis

[Jim Ratto]

This is the cam I decided to go with. Just ordered it a little while ago. Its a web cam grind that falls in between the 110  & 120 and is close to the VZ-25 grind.

163   284º   249º   0.422"   10.72   108º   Hot street; wide power band

Going to run 1.1 rockers. Now I need to decide on carbs. Kads, 36 Dells or 40 IDFs. I kind of want to do the Dells just to be a bit different but the kads are cheaper.

--louis

I like those numbers. I was going to suggest the Web 110 based on experience with that cam in a few motors, but not too sure how well it would run with 2 cyl per venturi (Kadron).  I think the 163 is one step milder than their 110? The 163 looks alot like the factory 912 / 356 Super 90 cam. Should give good throttle response and go 5500 or so. With that said I would use about a 32-34mm venturi if you run 2 2-throat carbs.

[louisb]

Its a little warmer than the 110 but not much. I am leaning towards the 2  2 barrel carbs. One of the reasons I decided to go ahead with the Manx and put the '66 on hold for a bit is to get some exp with building and tuning VW motors before I have to deal with the 2332 & IDAs. Plus not having a VW to drive is killing me and the '66 is at least a five year project. If the assembly of the 1914 goes well I am thinking of building the 2332 myself.

W-110   284º   247º   0.392"    9.96   108º

163   284º   249º   0.422"   10.72   108º   

VZ-25   286º   256º   0.429"   10.90   108º

Thanks for all the input guys.

--louis

[Jim Ratto]

No, I meant WEBCAM 110. Not Engle. Take a look @ Web 110. It's the biz in moderate street motors 1700-2000

256 @ .050, I think 286 adv, .435" @ valve (I run it with 1.25). In 2 liters, your mom can putt putt it around or scream it up to 6K.
In smaller cc, it shreds.

[louisb]

Ooh. Okay, that makes more sense. 

--louis

[Jim Ratto]

Ooh. Okay, that makes more sense. 

--louis

no worries dude... happens all the time. 

besides, on the eighth day God made Owsley.

[ugly duckling]

put the REAL carbs on not them sgl throat piles of GOO.   soory but i cant stand an engine that idels like a FUELER. i like smooooooooth. UD .

[Bad bug]

K8 sure works well in Darrell Bomgarrs 2165.  It made 180 at the rear wheels and is very driveable!

What compression was he running and what header system.

[Torben Alstrup]

Stay away from the FK40 series. They destroy things, - fast. FK8 is good in a 1914. If you want the 40 series, get one of Massive´s with a fatter lobe, or go all the way and buy a Raptor cam. Then you can run lightweight valve train and single Oteva Springs, - and turn 7500 without valvefloat, AND get more power at the same time.
The 218/119 is good in smaller engines or engines in general with dual sgl. barrel carbs as Kadrons. They idle at best when retarded 2 degress with Kads. Less valve train noise than the W110. With good flowing heads you need to run mild dual springs, or light valve train, because it will rev to just under 7k
Frankly I do not believe those huge HP #´s that came out with a former menthioned Kadron fed engine. 139 hp at the wheel equals at least 155 hp at the flywheel. for a race engine, sure, a street engine, Hmmmm.

T