Fitting Type III Tin & Fan Pieces To An Alum Case

[DKK Ted]

Ok, a silly question, but a question. Built a motor with an Auto Leania Case, was built for a Ghia, but now going into a Type III. Any fitting problems with the fan shroud? Infact any type III parts? Now the big one, motor was built to use IDA's, I'm assuming I can run IDA's but without the cover over the motor, true or false? Any pics of motors w/IDA's in a Type III street car??
Thanks ahead of time!

Ted

[Diederick/DVK]

the best present-day example of a clean IDA motor in a type 3 is Felix's notch.

http://cal-look.no/lounge/index.php/topic,12030.0.html

whether the autolinea case will prove to be any different, i don't know...

[Neil Davies]

Ted, without the cover, will it cool as well as it should? A conversion to T1 upright tin might be better, and you know it fits that case. My friend Andy has a notch with upright tin and 44IDFs: http://www.funkenblitz.com/andrewburtons.shtml

[ibg]

a T3 draws its air from vents on the outside of the car through the bellows to the motor, lid makes no difference except to noise and heat.
IDA's will stick up a bit 

[Zach Gomulka]

Might have to trim around the opening to clear the carbs.

I'd run 42's and shut the lid.

[gizago]

If you're not going to use the engine lid then you're better off using upright type 1 cooling IMHO, as this avoids the type 3 fan issue too. It will be bloody loud though, we temporarily ran a stock 1600 type 1 cooled motor in a notch years back and it was very loud in the car, it will be deafening with IDAs .

[Speed-Randy]

Ted, the cooling tin works fine, DO NOT PUT A TYPE 1 set up in that car. I'll talk to Jim and convince him to run DCNF's and keep it all under the lid. All the exhaust and cylinder heat will be the only air going into an upright motor stuffed in a type three. Not to mention how much it looks like a HACK JOB when it's done.

[DKK Ted]

I agree, but was thinking more of IDF's,, DCNF's would work too. I was thinking of the Type III cooling tin and fan going on the alum case, any issues with that, bolts right up? Also would have to pull the dip stick tube out and tap and plug that hole.

TED

[Speed-Randy]

problem with type 3 IDF manifolds is they block the sparkplug and the wire rubs the manifold, DCNF's are a straight shot, work great and are readily available.

[Rick Meredith]

I don't think you can run 48s w/o cutting. I agree with Randy.. DCNFs are the way to go.

Cooling with a t3 setup won't be bad but I think there's an RPM limit with the fan.

[Zach Gomulka]

problem with type 3 IDF manifolds is they block the sparkplug and the wire rubs the manifold, DCNF's are a straight shot, work great and are readily available.

And the air cleaner is 3/4" tall with IDF's. And DCNF's just plain run better.

[DKK Ted]

I agree, but was thinking more of IDF's,, DCNF's would work too. I was thinking of the Type III cooling tin and fan going on the alum case, any issues with that, bolts right up? Also would have to pull the dip stick tube out and tap and plug that hole.

TED

[DKK Ted]

Oops, double post, sorry!

[Speed-Randy]

you can leave the tube in, put a dipstick in it and the shroud will cover it if you dont want to tap it and plug it. have the fan welded like a type 1 fan on the fins and hub, it wont rev to 10,000 rpm, but it'll shit n get

[nicolas]

the conversion is probably the best way to go. even if it will suffer in performance. i run a type1 setup in my fastback and it seems to run quite a bit hotter as a type3. the problem is that air gets drawn in the compartment, but hot air can't really get out, unless you use standoffs. i always pop the decklid open on longer cruses and even then the temp is quite high. i want to put this exact engine in a bug and compare to see if my gut feeling is right.
anyway with the type3 cooling you draw cool air for the cooling and with a bit of tabbing even for the carbs. i am thinking an air box for the carbs.
the tin will fit just as good/bad as type1. they are quite similar.
as much as i like the DCNF's, i know IDF's were great too, but both of them are not IDA's...
even if you stay with type1 or taller manifolds than what is offered for type3's. cutting will be needed in the lid and part of the upper deck.

[DKK Ted]

you can leave the tube in, put a dipstick in it and the shroud will cover it if you dont want to tap it and plug it. have the fan welded like a type 1 fan on the fins and hub, it wont rev to 10,000 rpm, but it'll shit n get

Well, I would perfer to just pull the motor apart and pull the dip stick tube out and tap and plug it, at the same time, tap the inlet for the full flow a bit more  to get the fitting a little deeper like Bergs do there's, wash it and reassemble it again. I have the P/L's now, I can still finish and mock it to see what push rod length I need and order from JC, but once I get the rockers from Jim, will be soon. Carbs, I believe will be 42 DCNF's, just need short manifolds, going to see if Bergs has any, then a linkage from Bugpack I hear works great for this setup. Another thing will the bigger dis. fit, think it will, I think my brother in-law and I put one in his, big Petronics in and fit, gotta ask him. He'll have to order a Type III header from Tiger now, but all in all, think it will be nice. Kinda excited about the turn of events on Type of motor now.

Thanks everybody for your input. Randy, will keep in touch!

[nicolas]

make sure you pay attention to the full flow exit and entrance with the big fan shroud of the type3 engine. you'll need to clearance it as well.

and don't rev over 6000... the fan doesn't like that AT ALL. 

[Jon]

Narrow engine, short manifolds, and a steelbox over each carb. They could be welded to a spare engine cover if you did good on the first point. My .02