My 67 notch expands to 2.2 liter (+beefed up gearbox)

[Felix/DFL]

Hi everyone,

so first let me short introduce myself. That personal aspect comes to short in my view in the unpersonal webworld...
My name is Felix and I come from germany and am a member of the DFL vw club
www.dflvwclub.com
I am 31 years old married and have a 19 months old daughter and work in the developing department for oil & vaccum pumps at VW till 2008. As english is not my native language please forbear me with some spelling and lettering.

First I will LOOK back:
I got my 67 notch in 1999 (man is it really sooooo long ago) and restored it for about 3 years. The first mod was resto-cal with stock 54PS and then with 45PS as the 54PS seized. No I was not that fat the notch was soo low.


Than a good friend and now club mate Tobi borrowed me KS cal look bible. I read it 2times in a row with a dictonary at the side as my english wasn`t that good way back. The 1776cc came in 2003 were I attended at the first DAS Drag day. A meeting that really set directions in my interests within the VWscene.





The fuch`s came in 2004. That year I even got a proud member of the DFL club at the DFL May cruise madness. After that there came some other projects but I never stoped modifing the notch or interest in the LOOK.



There were some minor changes and some things to fix. A broken gearbox at DDD (I think 3 or 4) were I didn`t arrive at the c.tree as I seized my diff at the FIRST burn out 
The study for about 4 1/2 years even took the time and money away.

The IDA`s and some other mod`s came in 2009 which got me a best of 15.0sec at the 1/4mile with 35,5x32mm Valves...I think the first outing was about 17,9 sec (same engine with milder ports, 40 IDF, and other cam/rockers and milder CR)
The 1776 dropped a valve at the end of 2009 whitch was a bit sad as I couldn`t attend DDD that year.



<a href="http://www.youtube.com/v/U54QggnnyG0" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/v/U54QggnnyG0</a>

More infos: http://cal-look.no/lounge/index.php/topic,9169.0.html

But back to the main theme: 2.2 liter!

I started to collect parts for that one till 2004. The first part was a 78.8mm Scat crank I bought from Tobi. At that time I was a fresh student and the money for that crank should have gone into a new washing machine as my parents gave it to me for that. But there was a washing center around the block so the decission was clear as water to me. Not so to my parents... But hey, we all have to prioritize 

In the next time I will fill this topic with pic`s and infos about the building. What happend and what will. First only the base and a stroker should have a good base. A new mexican FI case mainly filled behind 3rd cylinder. More to come...

Best greetings,
Felix

[kev d]

Nice car
Not enough T3`s around!
Cheers,
Kev

[Carsten]

Hello , good luck ! Hope the Bielstein dampers work fine on your car ;-)
Just started to collect parts for a new engine for my car... So maybe it will be ready until the end of the season this year.
Greets from Dortmund , Carsten

[Tobi/DFL]

Great 213th post, Felix!

Damn, I nearly forgot the look of your notch with chromies.

Good times!

Tobi

[Diederick/DVK]

cool post felix, thanks!!
you've got a great looking notchback and i love the way you detail your engines, very clean.

[Felix/DFL]

Hi Folks,

thank`s for the kind comments.
@Tobi: Yes good times back then
@Carsten: Those Billstein work perfect much better than the konis as they have pre pressure like all gas shocks. Very good for back setup.



So here are the engine details:

2187cc flat tin:
CR=10,7, Deckhight:1,2mm (1mm Copperring/ 0,2 deckhight without), Mexican FI case, Scat 78,8mm Volksracer crank, CB 5,4 rods, 94mm Mahle barrels& pistons (for 82mm crank), 044 CNC round port heads 42x37,5 with Manley valves CB double springs and CroMo retainers, Shrick lash caps,Thorsten Pieper lifters, Gene berg CrMo Puschrods, CB 1,4 rockers, 26mm Shadek oilpump, origi. flywheel lightened, Kennedy stage I, daikin disk, short manifolds with switched flanges, 48 IDA, 009 pointless (maybe a 010 which needs some love), welded and balanced fan, Racetrim deep sump, modified typ-3 linkage.

First step the combustion chambers.
They come very rought out of the package. First I removed material at the outer valvespots. Increased the valve to "wall" distance. Blue marks are for reference and were to stop as the fischer book teaches. That even worked good at my 1776.
Next step was smoothing with some dummy valves that were cut back at the edges. Than a decent polish. The next step is bringing them to exact volume and polish decent again.

[Diederick/DVK]

that is excellent work felix!! did you use a dremel? how did you get the chambers polished that nicely?

[CHR!S/DVK]

looks very good felix!
nice dedication to the building of the engine!

i just wonder if the highly polishing combustion chamber is good for the burning and combustion of the fuel mixture.
something inside me tells me that some roughness in chamber is good for the combustion, perhaps in a way that it helps the mixing of the mixture.

one more question of inquiry, how do you exactly measure the cc in the chamber? i tried to do it myself with a plat transparent plastic plate that is placed on the site where the cylinder matches the head, drill a hole into the plastic plate and fill it with tinted liquid(ink diluted in water). i fill it with a syringe to measure the cc that is injected into the chamber. but in some way i can't determine when the chamber is completely filled..

does anyone have any helpful comments?

[Type1/DVK]

that is excellent work felix!! did you use a dremel? how did you get the chambers polished that nicely?

And then to a more fine grit, and after that with the cloth one. and a bit of polish adhesive

Forget the dremel and use a good air ''dremel''

[Brap Brap Brap]

Hi Felix

Great Projekt. Hope we see us at DDD or Bitbug? for a new race.

Dirk

[red baron]

hi felix - do u leave this chamfer around the chamber as it is?
I'll probably remove mine as it is still in the heads and leds to a fine slit when the cylinders are fitted.

but looking sweet.

cheers max (germany)

[Felix/DFL]

@Dirk: Yes Bitbug with DFL402 will happen looking forward to see you there! Details to DFL 402 in near future.
@ Max Heads are now cut deeper and will be fine tuned further.

I used Dremel with various tools and a handdriver for most of the work.

i just wonder if the highly polishing combustion chamber is good for the burning and combustion of the fuel mixture.
something inside me tells me that some roughness in chamber is good for the combustion, perhaps in a way that it helps the mixing of the mixture.
one more question of inquiry, how do you exactly measure the cc in the chamber?

Is that really so? Interesting...
To me the turbulences happen in the gassers, the ports, when the gasses pass the valves and when the quench effect of the piston happens.
A smooth surface (no need for a mirrow polish) minimizes the surface, and to me that`s a good idea cause over the surface you loose heat of the combustion-cycle and you want to let the heat in there for the burning process. But I maybe wrong...

One exact method of cc`ing your heads correctly is with a "Bürette" fine scale. I got mine (used) very cheap at e-bay and made a support for it. Before I used an injection with a 0,5ml scale but I had to charge twice. Not very accurate...I use a visible plate with only one hole, grease at the contact faces and water with a dip of soap (to break surface tension). When a bubble in some area occures yust slowly fill more water in and it will go to 95% away. I need to cc and match the heads in the next days cause they were cut deeper. I will post some detail phots then.

One thing that is even spot on is how much the spark extends into the cumbustion chamber. When mounted without spacer they extent way too much even a small area of the thread extenses. I will use a cooper spacer between spark/head.
I have seen a watercooled turbo engine that burned away sparks for breakfast that exented to much. The middle electrode yust melted away. After some set`s we used sparks (same heat range) that were flush= Problem solved.

I opened up the cooling chanels in the heads and added some holes for more air flow around exhaust area. The fin`s are even smothed.

[Felix/DFL]

more pix

[Felix/DFL]

Opened at the top closed at the botom by a selfmade alu deflector.

[Felix/DFL]

Mostly of the head work was done last year.It is really intersting how much work/time goes into the heads. And I only did the basics. So here in short the work on the heads.

Bare CNC round ports:


finished:


I have ssen many self made heads that weren`t cutted at the tops. You want to get the valve visible.Always work in the direction towards the valve.


matching manifolds (later more to the mainfolds):


exhaust ports open slightly towards the header (1 5/8) opened/radiused after seat and smothed port to seat. That smoothing even happened at the inletport and is essential... Exhaust valve guide will be cut to the lenght of inlet in the next days.







Stuff I am using (+Dremel but the cheap air drill is much more efficent):


I always wanted a oil return line at the 3/4cyl. head (as many know there is a amount of oil forced up in the head cause of the clockwise rotation of the engine/cranktrain)
What better moment then do it now. NPT to AN. A Z-bended alu line will connect the head to the case.
 
Stand-drillmachine gives good support for cutting straight. Rotated/cutted in with a wrench



shorted & drilled at the inside


pushrodseat was extended to WBX seat (by wittkuhn-tuning) to use the CSP/Jaycee pushrodtubes 100% leak free (they use WBX seal at the head)

 

[Wunder Wim]

Hi Felix,

nice to see you 're building a new powerplant for your nice ride. Your work looks spot on.
I still remember the first time I saw your car. Just had to take a picture...



.

Greetz
Wim

[Jesse/DVK]

Nice work Felix! Your heads look great! Is there a DFL 402 this year? We should have a beer or two.. or more.. 

[Diederick/DVK]

read his signature jesse
5 and 6 june, a very unfortunate date for me.

and yes, show us more felix! some awesome work it is you do by yourself!

[Felix/DFL]

Thank`s guys!

@wim: Cool haven`t seen that pic for a decade. The satin gloss difference really makes it. Thank ya for posting! That was at Spa 2004. The weekend before we were at DDD2 and stayed the week between in belgium and had some nice days with some trips in B.

@Jesse: DFL402 for sure.Two or more? more!

Manifolds:
As the typ-3 engine compartment hasn`t got that much room at the sides I needed to switch the flanges at IDA short manifolds. I didn`want to widen the opening.
An other option would have been to buy Becker or GB switch manifolds. But I wanted to have some old one`s and found a pair really cheap at the samba. So the direction was given. It`s the same molding as racetrim/DDS but without the name.

DDS style 


First raw then fine sanded the contact faces to the head/gasser on a glass plate for good flatness


here you see the flange positon problem@my 1776:


much moore room ( at the end I only had to cut a bit of the outer lip)


I got a drawing about where the holes of the flanges are from JHU:


Then I made a plate with both flange positions (4holes each barrel) and a fixing device to find the angle and positon after cuting and for a good welding support.


cut cut cut...


Welded (not done by me) in the fixture. After the pic I sandblasted them to get the rough finish back


I even cutted many material at the inside of the manifold. You can`t yust match the flange area to head you need to matcj the complete lenght. A good thing when using short one`s.
I straighted the ports and worked the bend a bit out. Next time I will pre weld before I do this cause I got to the outside on 3 spots. And then the welding is much more difficult then before cause the material around is to thin...

next stop: case

[jamiep_jamiep]

Great write up Felix. Looks fantastic work on the heads....

[Felix/DFL]

Thank ya Kaeferboy! Hope they even perfom fantastic 
On it goes with the case (AS 21-FI).The work was done at the beginning of this year.

Debbured and clearanced for 78.8 crank. As it is the first cleared out case for more stroke I had to look where to remove and how muche neede to go. So checking, cutting,checking,cutting... eats up much time.
Deburring was a major work as those mexican/bras. cases have much burr on them. I also removed the Studs on the other casehalve and loctided them in again. The "window" between the cylinders was extended a bit and smoothed.




Extended oil channels at the middle cam bearing (on both halves) for more oilflow to the opposite lifters


Opened up a bit


As those Engle cam`s come razor sharp out of the box I champfered the edges a bit.


Now the first test-assembling of parts could happen to see what needs to be modified how things go together and so on..

Adjusting cam-endplay to 0,05mm.Before I fine grinded the faces on my well loved glassplate it was way to stiff with the double cam bearings (tang remove on one half)


Thorsten Pieper lifters "made in germany" 


Moddified the bearings as berg suggested (I even have seen this mod at factory made BMW boxer engines)


One word to the main bearings. Use Kolbenschmidt (left) if you could get as the have the 360° oiling and not just point oiling as the mahles (right)


First get together


I am using Magnum straight cuts and CB 5.4 rods

[exportbug]

Hi Felix,
very nice work......that is what we like and want to see

I hope we see us in Hannover....!?
Nice lifter.....

Greetings Thorsten

[nicolas]

mmm as always great work and always looking for the best details and general care of parts.

[Felix/DFL]

Hey Mr. Pieper!
Nice to see you here! I will be in Hannover but sadly the notch will be to 90% not be ready till the May cruise madness at the 30th.

On with the case:
I puled the plugs (the only one I let in the case was the notched plug at the bearing next to the pulley) to get ALL chips out. Otherwise I can`t image how you could be secure the all the derbish is out...
I made myself a puller using some scrap like a worn out oval mastercyl. and some stuff. Drilled in the plug made a fitting thread and pulled the plug. Worked out very nice.


Pluged even the oil cooler as I am not using it and want it leak proof:



Another big advantage of the top plugs is that you could pre fill the gallerys with oil before the first start! No nervous looking at the oil light...

I will use the CSP AN Adapter to get oil in the case (I used a little bit wider O-Ring not the shown/mounted one). The small hole at the regulater piston (to cooler) is even closed to secure that there happens no leckage.


I flated the Nut faces to get a good contact surface with the cutter extension I made me. I will use a slightly bigger washer and the 15mm wrench nuts normaly for the cylinder heads. This will get a good contact faceand loosening secure.



One word to the oil pressure regulator you want to use the orig. otherwise you have nearly a 0,1mm wider gap which causes leackage...

[Felix/DFL]

Back to the oil regulator: Even the screw in plugs for regulation will effect the oil pressure. The Bugpack one on the right will give you a lower pressure level. Both left are original VW




That could be compensated with a repro regulator spring (left) or better a shimed original:


Good things to play around later to find a good pil pressure level. I want to set it at about 4-4,5bar/100°C Öltemperatur.

back to the big boys...
I notched the rods a bit. Next time I would not do it in the middle I have seen that pauter etc. does it outermiddle later. But it should work ok so. I checked the weight of all rods and they were very accurate so I didn`t touch them.


The flywhell has lost some weight due to at trip to Wittkuhn tuning. But don`t worry it looks lighter than it is as he didn`t remove material behind the cluth which is good for a cool cluth. The openings even help to get the heat out. Very nice work.


Finding the real OT:
I did it with a dial indicator. Point it straiht on the 1st cylinder then turn the engine clockwise. There comes a spot were the indicator stays on a number for a little moment while you could turn the engine then it falls again. Try to set that flat point to zero. Rotate the engine clockwise again and stop if the needle is 0,1mm before zero and make a point/line at your flywheel. Rotate again and as the needle comes back even make a point/line 0,1mm after OT. Sketch a line between the both lines and you got the exact OT. I made me a simple holder with an needle to get the points right.


Then came the cylinders. I seted the cylinders to one level and checked it with a straightedge. I had to correct on both sides. The taller cylinders were carefully grinded down to one level at the well loved glass plate I find that step important to secure that the head could seal 100% against the cylinder.


Then the deck height were corrected to one level with a depht dialgauge which I got cheap at e-bay. The lower deck heights were corrected to the heigher one`s by grinding down the pistons on you know on what  I removed the piston rings and taped the pistons that they sit straight in the cylinder otherwise you ruin your cylinders and rings with all the cheking grinding cheking...The highest difference was at about 0,12mm. Now deck height is 0,26-0,25mm on all as I will use 1mm cooper rings.


After that time consuming job the pistons were brought to one weight level

[red baron]

Wow felix. U really put some knowledge into this build.

cheers max

[Felix/DFL]

Thank ya Max! Und echt lässige Bedalatschen 
Here we go again...
Here is a problem I had before with the 3rd Cylinder. It didn`t seal against the case.


Those spots were even "dremeled" a bit back to give the studs a bit more clearance.



The cylinders were cut back at the outer diameter and 1,4mm in the height to get a near a 1,2mm deck height.
That way I got a very narrow engine as I wanted. It`s as wide as my 1776...
Now that was a cool moment.First long block test:


Checked the cam lift before:

dummy valve springs to make things easier:

Setting valve geometry:

Cheking lift at the valve:

I came up with a 1.46 ratio with the CB rockers (044 heads)

I went thru this procedre 2 times.First with the FK87 and then with the FK10.
The FK87 gave to less coil bind distance (1,4mm) That was even a major point I went with the FK10 which gave me about 2mm distance.
I could have changed the valve springs/valves and maybe the retainer and so on but I wanted to go with the stuff I had on the bench. And I think the FK10 will match the engine concept very nice.

I cut back the seperator sheet tin behind the oil cooler as I am not using one.
And even closed the window at the 3rd cyl. Weldings aren`t really showable as I was a way to lazy to remove all the paint around the window. Anyhow it will not be visible and smothed with filler.On some points I need to cut corners 



As I like the orig. look I went with an dummy oil cooler:



Oilholes under the cooler are closed with NPT plugs...

Looking if everything fits good:

And modifing the deflector tin. For the base I went with a singleport deflector tin.


All the other tin was even mounted and cheked.
Then tear down and painting ithe case BLACK.I really like natural mag cases in an upright engine but not in an flat engine...
I painted it thin with VHT engine enamel which needed to be burned in for 1/2 hour at 100°C in an oven. Luckily the case fited in my oven.


The cylinder were painted with high temperature paint and the paint was burned in the oven in 3 steps. After the last step at 280°C the cylinders went blue inside???


My knowled is that a blue effect happens at 400°C+ and then the metall gets a bit harder.
I have no exlenation for this colour change and how it will effect sealing of the piston rings. Maybe some of you have?
Cheers!

[Diederick/DVK]

awesome work felix! this is one great thread.
i love matt black engine cases, where did you get the paint?

[Felix/DFL]

Hi Diederick,

cool that you like the work done.
You can get that stuff at e-bay or at mike`s & franklins (US-parts)
http://cgi.ebay.de/VHT-SP130-Motorlack-hitzefest-288-schwarz-28-00-1l_W0QQitemZ320513398717QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAutoteile_Zubeh%C3%B6r?hash=item4aa01657bd
On the 1776 I painted the case with a headerpaint. But the paint chipped away badly after some time. The VHT paint looks way better espacilly after burned in at the oven. Hope it will last long...

Anyone got some input about the blue cylinders

Have fun,
Felix

[Felix/DFL]

dummy test fit.
It is as wide as my 1776 engine 
Next step is test fitting & modifing the SS 1 5/8 header with a big flange
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